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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 5:41 PM   
CustomTamiyas4Life



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Status: offline 		What speeds are you getting with the method 11t?

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 6:25 PM   
raz54


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: tamiyacrawler

The cvd's on the pro are a little better. Make sure you loctite that pin before you run, they always fall out. I made custom ones, and i don't have problems anymore.






Do you mean remove the pin and put on the locktite?

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 6:55 PM   
duneslider


 

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Status: offline 		The cvd's have a grub screw that hold that pin. I don't think it was the cvd's that have the problems with the pin coming out. I believe it is just eh cvd's. As long as you keep that screw tight it won't come out. It would probably be a good idea to lock tight the screw.

Later
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P.S. Congrats on the pro.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 6:59 PM   
Doahh



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quote:

ORIGINAL: discgolfer72

Flyojumper i couldent warnty either because i had to change the connectors to deans and it says that if u change their connectors it voids warnty all of these companys needs to get togather an start selling products that come with deans
the tamiya plugs are actualy made for sound systems and were designed to carry no more than 5 v i gueess they were ok back in the 80s when 5v whas what most cars ran at but now with these high voltage and output bats somthing needs to change



Buy Novak.... They don't care if you soldered deans on....

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 8:42 PM   
discgolfer72



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Status: offline 		not true for all their esc my spy says in the manual if u replace the connectors it wiil void warnty
edit
oh yea just got back from lhs and picked up a new ft brace for my evader ive went through 15-20 of the stock ones i hope this one holds up to my jumping

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< Message edited by discgolfer72 -- 2/4/2006 8:55 PM >


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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 9:17 PM   
raz54


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: duneslider

The cvd's have a grub screw that hold that pin. I don't think it was the cvd's that have the problems with the pin coming out. I believe it is just eh cvd's. As long as you keep that screw tight it won't come out. It would probably be a good idea to lock tight the screw.

Later
Duneslider

P.S. Congrats on the pro.




Thanks, I found the grub screw you talked about and pulled it and added locktite. I got to try it for a couple minutes then the rain started again but tomorrow it's back to the beach with the sand tires and tear up some dunes (lol).

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 10:38 PM   
Flyojumper



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Status: offline 		Alright, thanks Duneslider for the explanations on balloon covers.
Is it still needed with those new blue seals though? I have never seen someone use balloon covers before though, although it sounds like a pretty sound idea.
From all the users here who own an Evader, all of you settle for not quite 100% air free shocks?
There must be someone here who knows precisely how to fill those shocks perfectly free of air, I don't want to believe it's a design flaw...

On another topic, does anyone know the rims that are a DIRECT fit for the Bx?
I don't fancy those Duratrax rims, I cracked them in several spots already and would like to get new rims for my future new tires (probably Dirt Hawgs).
Are B4 a direct fit? Something else?
I don't want to reduce my turning radius on the front or have to change my shock position in the back (using outside hole at the moment), so I'd like a pretty much perfect direct fit.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 11:57 PM   
CustomTamiyas4Life



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Status: offline 		I think the shock air is a design flaw because i've tried everything and they still fell and sound like crap.
I beleieve b4 rims will fit as lond as you get them both up front and rear, so you don't throw anything off.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/5/2006 12:05 AM   
duneslider


 

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Status: offline 		Well, all the big racers rebuild their shocks so frequently that they wouldn't use the covers. All us bashers pretty much don't care enough to have perfectly built shocks so we only run the covers for the looks. So, are they a needed item? I doubt it but they do look king of cool.

Also, check the losi wheels. I thought they were supposed to fit even better than the b4 wheels. I don't know a lot about the buggy wheels though.

Later
Duneslider

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/5/2006 12:24 AM   
Flyojumper



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Status: offline 		They look cool?!? I was actually thinking they would look kinda crummy. Anyone has a link to a pic of a buggy with balloon covers? The balloon goes tightly under the spring covering the inside part of the shock only or does it cover the whole entire shock thus hidding the spring? If so it must be pierced for the screw holes I guess...

The losi wheels, I couldn't find a whole lot on Towerhobbies, anyone know which model is it? Everyone here uses the duratrax ones? (damn they cracked easily for me and I didn't even abused the car...)

For the shocks, I have a feeling the problem lies in the cap keeping some air while you assemble it.
Don't laught but I had this whacky idea that would most certainly work on any shock: assemble the shock while submerged under oil!
You would need a little container (as small as possible to not use too much oil while still fitting the shock) and assuming you cleaned the shock and parts EXTREMELY thoroughly before assemblying it, that oil would not be contaminated and could be reused on other shocks.
It's a little extreme I know but I'm pretty sure it would result in completely air free shocks...

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/5/2006 1:06 AM   
Doahh



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Status: offline 		Wheels, These are the ONLY ones that FIT
Rear: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000570703&I=LXDW24&P=K
Front: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000570703&I=LXDW22&P=K
I think they look nice...
Heres my vader with them... It only had 3 of every color so that's why it's yellow and green


< Message edited by Doahh -- 2/5/2006 1:07 AM >

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/5/2006 1:35 AM   
Flyojumper



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Status: offline 		Thanks for the links and pics!

On the pic it looks like the green balloon is covering the whole shock, but we can see the spring with the yellow balloons, did you mount them the same way? (both covering the springs?) Did you settle with air in your shocks also?

For the rims, Tower doesn't have a pic of the front ones, do they fit the BX as well as the ST? (BX has narrower front rims, not sure if BX and ST share the same rear rims).

I see you have a stick sport pack in your evader, what motor are you running and what speed do you achive with that setup? I'm also using a sport pack but my evader pro BX is only doing 23mph...

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/5/2006 1:39 AM   
Doahh



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Status: offline 		I'm running an SS5800 and I hit 35... With some IB's I could probably hit 40
the yellow ballon was smaller so I had to stretch it more making it tighter around the spring... I also got shock oil on the outside making it shrink a little... oops
Weird proline doesn't have the fronts...
This should be the front wheels though...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMF0&P=7

< Message edited by Doahh -- 2/5/2006 1:40 AM >

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/5/2006 1:54 AM   
Flyojumper



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Status: offline 		Well they do offer the front, but Tower doesn't have the picture, so are they wide front or narrow BX style? (the first ones you posted)
The second ones you posted are for the B4, so they should be identical to the AE b4 rims, which I'm not yet sure are a direct fit.

Damn! 35mph! And on a sport pack... I envy you but now I don't understand why so many people think my battery is the limiting point in my setup (see my other topic).
I know the 13t Fireball I have is a budget motor but only getting 23mph out of a 13t is very disappointing to me... (even with a sport pack, Team Orion 3000mAH) I was expecting more in the range of 27-30mph.
Did you run other motors on your car? I want to know what kind of speed Evader users are getting out of a sport pack with a brushed motor.


< Message edited by Flyojumper -- 2/5/2006 1:57 AM >

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/5/2006 1:58 AM   
Doahh



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Status: offline 		th seccond ones are the B4 ones... don't know why their called wide rims

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/5/2006 3:54 AM   
CustomTamiyas4Life



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Status: offline 		ok, i took the plane and reedy quad mag off my list of stuff to buy, so now i have like 90 bucks to get some bling. What do you guys think i should get?
1. all around aluminum arms
2. front and rear shock towers
3. bulkhead+front shock tower

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/5/2006 4:11 AM   
Doahh



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Status: offline 		None of that
Don't get aluminum it's heavy not as durable as the graphite and doesn't do anything benificial... Only aluminum yyou should get is the Aluminum Motor Mount/heatsynk

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/5/2006 4:17 AM   
CustomTamiyas4Life



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Status: offline 		What?????!!!????not as durable????

Well, i dunno. I wish i had more money. I don't know if i want the quad mag and a plane, or if i want some aluminum, or if i want a 10t esc with a 11t motor. I need to order soon too, because i need that dang servo.

How much better is the reedy quad mag compared to the speed gems acronite 19x1? I always hear people like "it's so fast" and "the power is amazing". I guarantee you that the acronite has more torque, but the speed is less than adrenaline pumping. I want to know because this can be a short cut or i might have to get a 10t. Do you think the 10t would kill my tranny?

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/5/2006 4:52 AM   
CustomTamiyas4Life



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Status: offline 		Hey, anybody run karbonite gear servos? They are claimed to be 4x stronger than plastic gear servos and for 10 bucks i'll pick up three and still have enough money for the heli that i originally wanted and i could still buy the quad mag. To tell you the truth, the only reason why i strip servos is because of my track in my back yard. It has some trees in it and whenever i hit one i wruin a servo. If i got the mg servo, i bet i'd break the bell crank or linkages everytime i hit a tree. I really want something to fly, so i think i'll just get the karbonite servos and i'll have an extra, so if they aren't too strong and i strip one, i have a spare, and i'll just stop running around trees. The funny thing is tho, tamiyas don't have servo savers(well,kinda) but i hit tree after tree with that buggy and never break squat for gears.

I haven't posted pics here yet so now i will. This isn't my current setup tho. This is of it brand new

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/5/2006 7:57 AM   
lcnet



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Status: offline 		about the oil thing...what if you warm up a little the oil before you fill them up. because your oil will be more Liquid while it warm, the air bubble could go up a lot easier...I think....

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/5/2006 8:23 AM   
philp37



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Status: offline 		In reference to an earlier post. Stay away from rims made for associated vehicles. They will work, but the dish is differant, and they will change width, screw up suspension geometry design, and generally screw up your handling. Use wheels that are made for Losi. They are the same dish as the oe evader ones.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/5/2006 8:29 AM   
philp37



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Status: offline 		On the subject of the evader's bottom fill shocks, I have heard that losi owners have the same trouble. You might have something with the warming of the oil thing. I have heard that AE shocks, although more difficult to assemble, have a lot less trouble with air bubbles while rebuilding.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/6/2006 7:01 AM   
raz54


 

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Status: offline 		Hey guys. I got to take out my new evader st pro out today and try it and the motor burnt up on the first battery! It was running good then suddenly started slowing down and then stopped. Smoke was coming from the motor and one lead had come off so it got very hot very fast. I noticed that the tranny seems harder to turn than my old evader. Any ideas why? This was the first time out with it too and to be honest I never noticed how the tranny was before.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/6/2006 7:13 AM   
duneslider


 

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Status: offline 		My only guess is that the tranny had something wrong with it to begin with. If it were too tight so things couldn't rotate then you could smoke a motor. I would write duratrax and see what customer service will do for ya. I'd let them know you are pissed.

Sorry to hear it,
Duneslider

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/6/2006 7:57 AM   
Humphrey001


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Fellas, I was out on the weekend with my Evader and my leads to my motor came off. Looks as if the solder melted. This has never happened before and the only thing I could think of was that it was the Masher 2000 tire (that are now on the back) are making the Photon motor work too hard. Would the Duratrax motormount/heatsink keep the motor under control with these tires, or do I have to change my pinion down. Any thoughts on this topic would be appreciated.

Other than this issue I was ecstatic with the performance of the tires. We (my Brother in law and I) run on a lose bluemetal BMX track and finally I have good traction.

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