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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/6/2006 8:05 AM   
duneslider


 

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Status: offline 		Yes you need to regear. Any change to the tires will effect the gearing of the rc. Go to the sticky on finding the proper gearing and read it. Then use the calculator to figure out what your gearing should be. You will need to know what the transmission ratio is and it is 2.66:1. Other then that you will just need to know your pinion gear and tire diameter. Play with spur gear sizes until you get one that is in the right range.

That article on proper gear selection is very very good. I promise you will learn a lot.

Later
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/6/2006 8:14 AM   
Flyojumper



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Status: offline 		Yes that article is a very good read.
Only thing is they made a mistake in it on the meaning of the "perfect 1:1" gearing: it doesn't mean that for every revolution of the motor you will get a revolution of the wheel. What this "perfect ratio" mean is that for every revolution of the motor, you will have a 1" rotation on the circumference of the wheel.
If it was 1 motor revo = 1 full wheel revo you would be SERIOUSLY overgeared! lol

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/6/2006 8:24 AM   
raz54


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: duneslider

My only guess is that the tranny had something wrong with it to begin with. If it were too tight so things couldn't rotate then you could smoke a motor. I would write duratrax and see what customer service will do for ya. I'd let them know you are pissed.

Sorry to hear it,
Duneslider




I found out what's going on, it's the axles! They flip one way great but are real tight the other way. If the axles are perfectly straight it turns easy but when the amrs go up or down it turns hard. Has any one else had this problem? The basic axles sure don't do this, they work real smooth.

< Message edited by raz54 -- 2/6/2006 8:26 AM >

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/6/2006 8:37 AM   
duneslider


 

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Status: offline 		You are right, he did make that small wording mistake. Really the idea is to get the final drive ratio as close to the roll out/tire circumfrance as possible. It works though so really I guess that is all that matters. Its a heck of a lot easier than busting out the calculator and doing all the work myself too.

Raz54

I just went and looked at mine, they are the same no matter how much they go up or down. They are just plain smooth and free no matter what. I really think that is weird yours has probs.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/6/2006 5:41 PM   
raz54


 

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Raz54

I just went and looked at mine, they are the same no matter how much they go up or down. They are just plain smooth and free no matter what. I really think that is weird yours has probs.

Later
duneslider
[/quote]



It's strange alright. They move say up and down fine but not side to side, (or vise versa) then they bind and it's hard to spin the wheels. I like the basic evaders axles better plus there in no grub screw to loosen up on them. I guess I'll take it back to the lhs and see what they will do. Thanks duneslider, I didn't think they should be like this.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/6/2006 7:49 PM   
warfield1


 

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Status: offline 		Well yesterday i learned you cant drive your rc in the cold.

Before the super bowl came on i wanted to run my evader at a friends house. I ran it threw a couple of yards and was driving it back towards me and hit a driveway that was raised up about 2 inches from the surface i was on but i couldn’t tell from the angle i was standing. well I wasn’t even going half speed and the front arm snapped like i had never seen before. The only excuse i could think of is it was to cold. Even though i live in Atlanta and it really doesn’t get that cold down here often it was unusually cold yesterday. Fortunately i have spare parts from my old nitro evader that i can replace it with today and get back to bashing.

I wont be running in the cold anymore.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/6/2006 7:59 PM   
tnguitarman


 

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Status: offline 		How low a turn can one go engine wise and still keep the differential stock? Any spur or pinion gears neccessary with said motor?

< Message edited by tnguitarman -- 2/6/2006 8:00 PM >

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/6/2006 9:10 PM   
Flyojumper



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Status: offline 		Yay! I'm about to acquire a Orion Revolution 12x2 via the Duratrax warrantee on motors (long story, I have to pay some extra money but I was planning to get that motor anyway so it's worth it).

Anyway, my question: do you guys think it's alright to run this nice handwound 12t motor on the 12t Intellispeed? I've heard of another user running this exact same combination with no apparent problem but I wanted to ask users here.
Would that combination on 7 cells be ok as well? (the esc is rated for 7 cells, just wandering on the combination of handwound+7 cells)

Finally my BX should be able to reach some good speeds! (no more stuck at 23mph for me!)

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/6/2006 10:40 PM   
MBX5T Maniac



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Status: offline 		Lock this thread. There is already an evader thread. For both the ST abd BX

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/6/2006 10:52 PM   
discgolfer72



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Status: offline 		im running 11 t and have run 9 turn with no problems with the tranny


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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/7/2006 1:55 AM   
CustomTamiyas4Life



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Status: offline 		mahem, can you just stop about the evader?! Don't even come to the thread if you gonna say something useless.

The people at duratrax said that they'll take care of my worped rip and the tranny!!!! That's awesome. All i told them in the email is that the rim was warped from the factory and that the tranny is rough still after 15 runs and they said jus send it in and i'll get new stuff. I'll have to do that when i order my new stuff.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/7/2006 2:34 AM   
nitros_rule


 

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Status: offline 		yeah i also got a new factory tranny from them mine was havin the same problem as yours!

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/7/2006 2:36 AM   
CustomTamiyas4Life



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Status: offline 		was the new one smother?

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/7/2006 7:32 AM   
raz54


 

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Raz54

I just went and looked at mine, they are the same no matter how much they go up or down. They are just plain smooth and free no matter what. I really think that is weird yours has probs.

Later
duneslider
[/quote]


I wrote to Duratrax and they are sending me some new axles and the hs where I bought is too plus a new motor! SCORE!

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/7/2006 7:59 AM   
Humphrey001


 

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Status: offline 		Just a quick question. I may ahve missed this in a previous thread. Does anybody know the rpm of the Photon Speed 20t motor that comes with the Evader ST or do know where I could find it?

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/7/2006 7:13 PM   
raz54


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Humphrey001

Just a quick question. I may ahve missed this in a previous thread. Does anybody know the rpm of the Photon Speed 20t motor that comes with the Evader ST or do know where I could find it?





I can't find any specs on the photon but I just put an Orion 21 x 2 motor on my other evader and it's slightly faster, maybe a mile an hour tops and it's a 22,990 rpm motor. The photon was a good motor (at least for me) but I like the method motor better. It seams to have a little more low end power plus it has ball bearings, adjustable timing and rebuidable.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/7/2006 7:27 PM   
fugaziiv


 

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Status: offline 		i though that i had a really warped front rims too, turns out they just needed to be balanced, a little shoe goo and some old bolts did the trick...

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/7/2006 11:29 PM   
CustomTamiyas4Life



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Status: offline 		I already balanced the fronts. If you look at them and slowly rotate them you can see that one side is alot different then the other. My new rims came in today anyway, along with the 90t spur. Sad i don't have any servos though

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/8/2006 3:00 AM   
Humphrey001


 

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Status: offline 		Thanks ra254, I counldn't find anything on it either but this gives me a basic idea.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/8/2006 6:38 AM   
DaveG55



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Status: offline 		I scaned this thread and did a search and found nothing so if I'm asking an old often asked question please point me to any relevent threads.

I just got a pretty good deal on a ST pro. Thing is I wanted a BX pro but the ST was a good enough deal to overcome that desire. My question is what all is needed to convert the ST to a BX? Has anyone done this yet? If it's too big a pita or expensive I'll live with the ST and maybe get a buggy later.

Duratrax lists what's needed to convert the Maximum ST to a BX but they don't say anything about the Evader

Thanks

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/8/2006 6:46 AM   
raz54


 

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Status: offline 		I'm not 100% sure but I think it's shorter control arms, different body mounts and body and the front shock tower is different, not sure about the rear tower and skinny front wheels

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/8/2006 6:54 AM   
raz54


 

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Status: offline 		If any of you are going to put a metal gear servo in your st make sure the arm doesn't hit the servo brace. Mine did for some reason so I had to file out the brace so it will self center again. If you look close you can see where it rubbed the top of the arm.

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< Message edited by raz54 -- 2/8/2006 6:55 AM >

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/8/2006 7:10 AM   
EVADERCHAOS



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Status: offline 		I am currently Evader-less! Noooooo! I sold the car a few days ago. I'll get around to ordering my new Pro ST in a few days. Until then, it will be very depressing.
lol

Mayhem Maniac ~ That thread was loaded with a ton of meaningless bullcrap, part of which was instigated by you. I would appreciate it if you would refrain from doing so here. Thanks.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/8/2006 7:35 AM   
jakjr



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quote:

ORIGINAL: DaveG55

I just got a pretty good deal on a ST pro. Thing is I wanted a BX pro but the ST was a good enough deal to overcome that desire. My question is what all is needed to convert the ST to a BX? Has anyone done this yet? If it's too big a pita or expensive I'll live with the ST and maybe get a buggy later.

Thanks


A ton of parts is needed, you would actually be better off getting a used BX roller off ebay, it would be cheaper anyways.

As well as I remember, you would need:

BX A arms (front and rear)
BX CVD's/universals
BX knuckles
BX turnbuckles
BX shock towers (front and rear)
BX shocks (I believe the ST's front shocks are the BX's rears but I'm not positive, etiher way you'll need at least one new pair of shocks)
BX front chassis brace
BX body
BX front axles
BX tires/wheels
I think you also need different rear hubs

I'm pretty sure that's everything but I may have forgotten a thing or two, after all it's been a few months since I've had an Evader. But as I said, it would come out cheaper to just buy a used roller.





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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/8/2006 8:35 AM   
duneslider


 

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Status: offline 		Or if you just want the buggy look I saw were someone modified the evader st so the buggy body would fit. Then replaced the front axles so the buggy wheels would fit. I thought I saw that post on this forum. I remember it wasn't too big of a deal to get the body to fit and then get the wheels to fit. It wouldn't exactly be the BX but it would give you the look. Just a thought...

Later
Duneslider

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