Posts: 213
Joined: 3/20/2006 From: hayward, CA, USA Status: offline
Ran it today, just idling all needles flush and the temp just kept increasing. I killed it at 247 degrees. I also used some soap water to brush all the typical places while the engine was running to check for air leaks: all needles, all over the carb body, where carb body meets engine block, carb retainer screw on both sides of engine block, and top and sides of engine cover (where rotostart cover is mounted to). No air leaks found, but how likely is air to leak from around the shaft bearing?
Based on what you guys are saying and what I've read elsewhere, there still must be a leak somewhere. I've taken apart most of the engine and while I'm at it, try to completely clean and reseal whatever I can, except the top of the head, with RTV. How to remove the sleeve from the block?
Posts: 116
Joined: 11/12/2007 From: New Castle,
DE, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: eastcoast_basher
yo cheese that might be a pretty good idea for the weight being pushed forward. i just use home made weights myself. and the only reason i see to put weight up there is for point racing. good idea though.
see my pics and you will know why i run with weight in the front.
this is how i installed mine.. i will get more detailed pics tonight and post them for you. but i drilled a hole on both sides just near the corner of the body peg and then used traxas push rods as extra suport. with this mod you will have to cut your body a bit. i will take pics of that too. but its really what works for you. i have my wing low and just off the body for racing.
Posts: 116
Joined: 11/12/2007 From: New Castle,
DE, USA Status: offline
also another good mod is to cut fuel line about 1/4 long and put it between the black O ring in your dog bones to keep them tight. you will have less slop and less tire wobble. i have racing cvd but they have the dog bone end at the dif so i still use the fuel tube mod. i also use itn on the center dog bones with out the black O ring i use just over and 1/8 of fuel tubing on each end of the center dog bones.
FOAMIE AND ZIP TIE MOD: i use a small foam tube that i found at the dollor store it was some kind of squirt gun for the pool. i cut it up and put it in the bumper support skid plates see above pics on last post then i use a construction type zip tie, the ones with the metal locking piece to hold the to bummper supports together. this works very well to aid in bad landings when your bumper supports move out and the A arm pins slip out.
Posts: 116
Joined: 11/12/2007 From: New Castle,
DE, USA Status: offline
Here are a few pics of the savage 4.6 racer. what you will need to race and keep up is: the HPI Racing Hex Hub Conversion Set w/Univ Joint 17mm Svg, bottom skid plate, dmx radio, steel spear gear kit with hardened clutch bell, do the 3/4 inch shock mod if you are staying with stock shocks. i did. and i run 40 to 50 shock oil, green springs in the rear they are med, and red/orange in the front they are soft, do the fuel tubing mod in the dog bones are to keep them tight, when your truck is sitting on the ground your dog bones should be strait out meaning the diff cups to the drive cups should be level, keeps the friction low and also your truck will be low, and that’s why you need the bottom skid plate. i use 40 series tires but some use the extensions with standard size bow tie tires. the wing mod is the best for racing it really helps keep the truck in line in flight, and helps with roll over,,, i land on my wheels more than ending up on my top because of the wing. oh lastly run extra long fuel line and run fuel filters the long fuel line helps keep the truck from flaming out to quickly.
here are some pics of the mods.
< Message edited by eastcoast_basher -- 7/23/2008 11:24:35 PM >
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RE: Anyone Own a Savage X? - 
