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Big Bird, I used 1/4 in. wire for my landing gear. It's a pain to work with but I was planning on using my ZDZ 80 for power, so the extra strength may be needed.
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Joined: 12/18/2001 From: Arlington, TX, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: mango12
Big Bird, I used 1/4 in. wire for my landing gear. It's a pain to work with but I was planning on using my ZDZ 80 for power, so the extra strength may be needed.
I think 1/4" is good for the front part of the gear. The rear support can still be 3/16". Do you have any photos of your progress?
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Joined: 3/19/2007 From: duncanville,
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No pictures yet, my wife has the camera. I did use 3/16" wire for the spreader bar on the L.G. I will post pix ASAP , but no comments about my shops neatness, o.k.? When used to breed parrots in the same building. Got rid of the birds, and gained a hangar!!!
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Joined: 3/19/2007 From: duncanville,
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Well I have run into my first real problem during construction. As I said earlier, I plan on using a ZDZ 80 for my powerplant. After installing F2 on the fuse I did some measuring to see how the engine will fit. If I install the engine on F 2, the prop shaft is 1&1/4" to short to clear the cowl. On the pther hand, if I install the engine on F 1, the prop clearance is perfect, but with the carb mounted on the rear of the engine, the carb will be located somewhere in the balsa spacer between F1 and F2, making adjustments nearly impossible. I contacted RCshowcase about putting a propshaft extension on the engine and they do not reccomend it. Any suggestions? Right now a different engine is out of the question. Scott
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Joined: 12/18/2001 From: Arlington, TX, USA Status: offline
Scott, I agree with RC Showcase, I don't like extensions because of potential vibration problems and extra stress on the crankshaft. Here is a photo again of my G-62 mount. As you can see F1 is only used as a cap for the balsa. The mounting block is actually mounted to a 1/2" thick F2.
Now for information on how I mounted my ZDZ80RV on my 1/3 scale Super Decathlon. As you can see from the photos I made standoffs from 1" red oak dowel. There is a hole cut in the firewall to accept the bottom end of a soft drink can. I did this to provide adequate air flow for the carb and to prevent any fuel from getting into the fuselage. I have been flying this plane for over 2 years and this arrangement has worked out fine. Adjusting the carb has been no problem. I think that shortly after my first flight I never adjusted the carb again. I love the ZDZ80RV. Believe me, you may wind up with a rocket ship Waco with the 80.
Note how I used bel cranks to operate the choke and throttle. On the SD, all of the radio equipment is hidden. This is the same for my 1/3 scale Bucker Jungmeister.
< Message edited by Big_Bird -- 3/28/2007 5:07:23 AM >
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Thanks Ken, thats exactly how I'm gonna do it!! Already got the stand offs cut, just gocenter drill them and I am ready to go. But lining up that drink can may be tricky, and I may put the bell cranks on the front side of the firewall. I'll let you know how it turns out. Scott
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Joined: 12/18/2001 From: Arlington, TX, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: mango12
Thanks Ken, thats exactly how I'm gonna do it!! Already got the stand offs cut, just gocenter drill them and I am ready to go. But lining up that drink can may be tricky, and I may put the bell cranks on the front side of the firewall. I'll let you know how it turns out. Scott
It will be easier to line up if you make it out of a beer can (maneuver smoother) and it is the last one in the 6 pack. I made the mistake of it being the first one in the 6 pack and had to move the hole as you can see.
I discovered that the horizontal stab and elevators were not drawn symmetrical. I copied one half on my light box and used it as the pattern for both sides. On my plans, if you lay a straight edge on the horizontal trailing edge, it curves off.
Looking forward to seeing how your mount works out.
< Message edited by Big_Bird -- 3/30/2007 3:38:20 AM >
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Joined: 12/18/2001 From: Arlington, TX, USA Status: offline
John, here is what my final landing gear assembly looks like at the back of F3. The plans say to epoxy the groved LG blocks in place. Knowing that it is entirely possible that I might have to cut into the LG area to replace a badly bent wire, I think I'll only depend on the 6x32 screws with lock nuts to hold everything in place. I added the additional piece to the shock absorber block to allow for carry through of the 1/4" square balsa. The LG main wire is 1/4".
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Joined: 12/18/2001 From: Arlington, TX, USA Status: offline
It would be far easier to make smooth ailerons but they just wouldn't look right. I built 3 of the original Pica 1/5 scale YMF-5 kits and all included the molded plastic caps to go over the ailerons. These added a lot of realism realism to the model. There are 34 stiffeners on each aileron surface on the full scale plane.
Now is the time for some brain storming from you guys. What kind of sticks, etc could be glued to the ailerons to simulate this. Possibly molds and vacuum formed parts? I've never done any vacuum forming. I don't mind gluing on 272 sticks. I have plenty of time.
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BB,
Check out Evergreen Scale Models http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/ (model train supplies) they have angle stock in a variety of sizes. You will need to pick the right size for your scale. Glue the angle to the surface (balsa, 1/64th" ply or styrene) with the corner up and by the time you add any putty, sand, primer, sand and paint, the corners will be rounded over and the angle/surface joints will be filled in to look like the real thing. Or if you find stock to vacumm form long enough for the airlerons, make a left and right master pattern and form the covers, that will give the rounded effect to the airleron corrigations. The pictures are of a full scale QFC/UBF airleron. Notice that every 3rd corrigation on the bottom side is open to allow condensation to escape. Good Luck.
< Message edited by skylarkmk1 -- 4/5/2007 2:57:52 PM >
_____________________________
John F Howard (aka skylarkmk1) AMA 10955, WACO Brotherhood #26, AWC, NWC
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Joined: 3/19/2007 From: duncanville,
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Hey Ken, on the plans it says that Sigs Morrisy Bravo has corrugated ailerons and you can order the parts from them. I assume that they are the correct scale. I finally got my engine mounted( ZDZ 80) and discovered that the wrap around muffeler, Pitts style, will not fit because of the short distance to the firewall !! I am not sure about some of the aftermarket mufflers as I have heard that some will fry the engine. I am also concerned about those ugly downpipes on the side mounted ones. I may be switching to a G62.
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RE: Jim Pepino's YMF-5 Waco - 
