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RE: vintage rc official old school thread - 2/25/2006 2:49:15 AM   
Eman77



Posts: 2821
Joined: 12/8/2005
From: Batavia, IL, USA
Status: offline 		Here are links to some closer pics of the car (sorry, not the best pics in the world). That plastic piece looks like it belongs, not an "oops, forgot to remove it from the parts" thing.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/emeiring/RC%20Cars/RC10_4.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/emeiring/RC%20Cars/RC10_3.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/emeiring/RC%20Cars/RC10_2.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/emeiring/RC%20Cars/RC10_1.jpg

The plastic piece I'm talking about is in front of the shock tower base, and is black (errr...greyish) in the pictures. It lies on the chassis, and looks like the piece, along with the a-arm pieces, are all one. I'll find out for sure when I disassemble this weekend. I gotta clean this thing up - it's terrible looking in the pics, but is in decent shape. Came with 3 bodies, all pretty decent.

Also - any idea why the steering servo is mounted crooked-like? I'd think that I'll want to straighten it up, so the long side of it runs parallel to the lenght of the car.

< Message edited by Eman77 -- 2/25/2006 2:52:46 AM >

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RE: vintage rc official old school thread - 2/25/2006 2:51:17 AM   
Eman77



Posts: 2821
Joined: 12/8/2005
From: Batavia, IL, USA
Status: offline 		Also, here are links to pics of my Mid SE.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/emeiring/RC%20Cars/MidHawgsSide.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/emeiring/RC%20Cars/MidHawgsFr.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/emeiring/RC%20Cars/MidAlumSide.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/emeiring/RC%20Cars/MidAlumFr.jpg

I've also got some lower-profile Option House micro-block tires for the HPI white rims shown, looks really nice with them on. But I won't likely use them much initially, since I want the Hawgs on for grass/pavement bashing around the house.

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RE: vintage rc official old school thread - 2/25/2006 3:21:27 AM   
Eman77



Posts: 2821
Joined: 12/8/2005
From: Batavia, IL, USA
Status: offline 		Upon further review - best I can tell, my RC10 looks like an RC 10 Team Car version, with some odd parts thrown in here and there from other versions. The battery mounts longitudinally (along the length of the car), and the tranny looks "bumpy" from the outside. A lot of the other RC10 versions have a smoother tranny cover, especially where it curves around the motor (see my pics above for the bumpiness).

However, I don't have a spacer between my tranny and the motor plate it bolts to, like the ones in the manuals have. Hmm.

Anyway, let me know what you think, discgolfer72. I might just use the Team Car parts list, and drag the car with me as well to my local hobby store to get some new parts.

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RE: vintage rc official old school thread - 2/25/2006 9:03:38 PM   
discgolfer72



Posts: 2835
Joined: 12/11/2005
From: overland park, KS, USA
Status: offline 		well u def have a newer version of the rc10 since it has the wide track a arm in front
and u also have the stealth tranny that didnt come out untill around 1990-91

it looks like the chassis was cut and shined(color removed) thoes steering arms ar an aftermarket part cant tell if they are alum or the rpm ones from the pics thi slant in the servo is prob cause they have the bat going the way it is most servos wont fit in that space u can change the way the bat sits by getting another battrie tray and mounting them side by side

by spacer i guess u mean that felt thing yea u should probaly get one since u have the stealth (? is there extra holes underneath where ur tranny mounts it might have ben upgraded to the stealth )

it dosent really matter what manual u go buy the barts are interchangeable just make shure the parts are the same as the ones on ur car (unless u want to go orignal but id stay with the wide track /if u saw my vids the short track dosent corner well at high speed )and if they are not they will still work

if u want a really sweet look with really great handeling go to the top of the first page and there is a truggy conversion chart its awsome (if u just go with the a arms dont change anything els it looks wicked /think the second pic (or first)from the left on top is with just the a arms)





oh yea sweet cars

heres some inside pics the one with all white part is a orignal rc10
first 4 pics are the truggy conversion

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< Message edited by discgolfer72 -- 2/25/2006 9:44:18 PM >


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vintage rc will rule

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RE: vintage rc official old school thread - 2/25/2006 10:05:23 PM   
DaveG55



Posts: 6444
Joined: 1/12/2005
From: Stockbridge, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Hey guys, would somebody please post a couple of close up pictures of a buggy body off the chassis so that I can see how to trim one up to fit? I think I know but don't want to screw it up. Oh yeah, it's going on a gold pan RC10.
Thanks

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RE: vintage rc official old school thread - 2/25/2006 10:49:24 PM   
discgolfer72



Posts: 2835
Joined: 12/11/2005
From: overland park, KS, USA
Status: offline 		last few pages in here have the orignal how to

http://www.theshreves.com/rc_stuff/manuals/ae_rc10/
and here are some of mine i dinnt do the gold one and the red black one is cutout for the rocket rc10
the other one is for a rc10 but it has a diffrent shock tower




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boom
vintage rc will rule

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RE: vintage rc official old school thread - 2/26/2006 1:10:18 AM   
KyleR


 

Posts: 33
Joined: 1/2/2006
From: Scappoose, OR, USA
Status: offline 		Well, after a ~15 year hiatus from R/C, I decided to dig out my old car to see if it'd still run. Lo and behold, but the darn thing still works! Gotta love the bulletproof old-school stuff. Hey, even my old battery still holds a charge, though not for very long anymore. Charge it for 15 minutes, run it for 5 minutes. Charge it for another 15 minutes, run for another 5. But hey, it's still fun.

RC10 Team Car (Black chassis)
Kraft KP2KWP 2ch transmitter (Pistol Grip, 75MHz AM)
Futaba 2ch receiver
1700mAH NiCD 6-cell battery
Trinity Speedworks Sapphire motor (17 turn)
Novak T-4 ESC
and an old MRC RB-485 AC/DC charger

So, now that it's running, I just have to work out a steering servo glitch that I'm occasionally seeing, fix a broken steering servo mount (the plastic cracked, doubt it was my driving - probably poor assembly skills oh so long ago), get a better battery or two (and a newer charger to handle NiMH), and re-learn how to drive the thing.

I opted to try and get this one going first to make sure I'm really wanting to get back in this, and then later I'll go and get something newer and more suited for the area I'm now in.

So, with all that, a couple of questions:
1) Are the NiMH batteries drop-in replacements for the NiCD ones (other than a different charger, of course)?
2) My current receiver is such that I don't have to have a seperate receiver battery pack (powers from the main 6-cell) for it and the steering servo. How much of a power drain is that? Is it worth it, realistically, to get a seperate battery for the receiver/servo or am I only losing maybe 30 seconds to a minute of runtime by using the main battery power?


Thanks, all!

-K

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RE: vintage rc official old school thread - 2/26/2006 1:14:26 AM   
discgolfer72



Posts: 2835
Joined: 12/11/2005
From: overland park, KS, USA
Status: offline 		ahhhh burnt up my bal dif on my rc10 oh well

what do u think sound like a burn dif

http://www.rcpics.net/img/73981


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vintage rc will rule

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RE: vintage rc official old school thread - 2/26/2006 1:59:50 AM   
DaveG55



Posts: 6444
Joined: 1/12/2005
From: Stockbridge, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Hi Kyle,
Welcome back. I'll offer what I can even though I just got back into electric myself.
That set up sounds pretty good even for today. Lots of stuff has changed since the late 80's/early 90's. Well, not really changed but become more refined and sophisticated (hasn't everything?). Lots more plastic in use, lots more electronics and more powerful batterys.
To answer your questions
#1, Nicads and Nimhs are completely interchangable as far as voltage goes. NiCads are old school, less capicity and subject to te "memory effect". Nimh's have a much higher capacity (4200mah is tops right now I think) and not nearly as suseptable to developing a memory.
#2, Almost all rx's now days use bec technology. In fact, some esc's can be damaged by the use of a seperate battery pack. The little bit of runtime you lose powering the rx is more than made up for in the weight savings of not having those extra batterys.

Discgolfer, Thanks for the pictures and the link to the manual. I should be able to post a couple pictures of the work in progress soon.

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RE: vintage rc official old school thread - 2/26/2006 2:20:41 AM   
Dawman



Posts: 2919
Joined: 9/19/2004
From: Marseilles, IL, USA
Status: offline 		Hi , I have 2 JRx Pros and a JRX-t projects that I`m working on.

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RE: vintage rc official old school thread - 2/26/2006 2:36:15 AM   
discgolfer72



Posts: 2835
Joined: 12/11/2005
From: overland park, KS, USA
Status: offline 		KyleR
i wouldent bother getting a new kit (unless u just want to )i race my rc10's and my old losi xx and place in the top four on a regular bassis the only advantage to the newer cars is they are a little lighter (not buy much /if u have the graphite rc10)but they are also porer built just today i broke my evaders tranny my rc18mt is down for the count with a cracked cchassis and the only broblems ive had with my oldies is just now today i burnt up a dif in my rc10t (15 year old diff) my evader tranny is only a year old so before u go buying the so called newest best stuff out there just think u have a car than can take a full speed hit into a wall and drive right back to you

i would upgrade to some new bats tho they make a big diffrence (id go for at least gp3300)and if u want a good charger for mh and cd bats the vision peak charger is good and its only 40 $ i also recemond a 9 turn speedgems (think its called kryptonite) motor if u want the speeds as in my rc 10 vids (or any trinity motor product)(stay away from cheap orion motors and the venom fire ball motors)


you wont notice much of a time loss with the bec circut on ur reciver (esp with some high quality bats)


ps just incase u dont have a manual for ur esc here u go
http://www.teamnovak.com/download/instructions/pdfs/T1_T4_Instr.pdf


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boom
vintage rc will rule

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