raginredneck93
Posts: 64
Score: 100 Joined: 5/17/2006 Last Login: 2/16/2009 From: Billings,
MT, USA Status: offline
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Actually Rob, that's NOT normal. You should be getting max amp draw at full throttle, that one has me puzzled. Is your motor worn out or is it new? Another question would be how much use is on your battery? I'd guess, now this is only a guess as I've never hooked a meter up to my Sky Fly, that it should be pulling 8 to 10 amps wide open. Is the motor winding up like it should or is it just plugging along at half throttle all the time? The only thing I can figure is your battery or motor is worn out, but obviously I don't know. Let me know the state of your battery and motor as far as charge, wear ect., and I'll see if I can find time to charge up a battery and see what mine's pulling. Maybe some of the others on the forum have had a meter on theirs? It'd be interesting to see what they found. At any rate, I'd figure the stock esc should be good for 10 amps, but once again it's just a guess. Maybe someone out there has fried one? If so, you'd want to use slightly less amp draw than they did. Hey lambodave, sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner. I actually have the mixes working on my P38, however with my DX7 and I haven't had a chance to try to translate it to my DX6. Here's what I wound up with though: First of all, I have the left esc plugged into aux1 or flap channel on my rx, and the right one plugged into throttle. Mix 1 is throttle-flap, rate is +100% up and down, switch is set to ON. Mix 2 is rudder-throttle, rate is +10% in both directions, and I have this mix on my gear switch. This mix gives me the increase and decrease in throttle for the corresponding rudder inputs for the right motor, now you need one to give you the corresponding increase and decrease in throttle on the left motor. This is accomplished by programming a third mix of rudder-flap (remember, flap is actually the left esc), and the rate is -10% in both directions, also set to the gear switch. I also left the travel set to 100% on my flap channel, but I did have it set to 0 and it didn't seem to make a difference. Apparently, on the DX7 at least, the programmed mix overrides the travel setting. With these settings one motor will gradually throttle up, and the other throttle down as I give rudder inputs, provided that the gear switch is turned on. Flip the switch and both motors are synchronized again. I originally set the mix to 25%, but bench tests showed that this was WAY too much differential. I think the thing would've done awesome flat spins, LOL, but that wasn't what I was going for so I reduced it to 10%. Even at 10% the differential on the throttles is quite significant at full rudder input and I may end up reducing them even more after flight testing. I actually doubt that the plane will even need the differential to fly properly, I just wanted to fool with it and see what happened and with the tiny rudders on the P38 I figure it can't hurt for ground handling purposes if nothing else. As far as the build is concerned, it should be ready to maiden by this weekend, however the weather isn't looking too favorable. This hasn't been the most difficult build I've ever done by far, but it also has not been the easiest. There's a reason why P38's are seldom modeled, and I think that reason is because there isn't anywhere to put anything. The manual says something like 3 to 4 hours for assembly, I say "Yeah right." It took me 3 to 4 hours just to string all of the Y cables and servo extensions that are needed to get to all the servos that are mounted in remote locations all over the aircraft. I was starting to have nightmares that I was locked in a basement in Langley Virginia wiring surveillance beer coolers for the CIA - I've never seen so much styrofoam and wire all in the same place! I'll see about posting some pics if I don't get home from work too late tonight.
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Does anybody BUILD airplanes anymore? ;)
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