RE: BRIO Electric 10-size  
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RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 12/17/2006 8:04:42 PM   
rjbranchii


 

Posts: 351
Joined: 4/9/2004
From: Harsens Island, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Decmebmber 06 update.

Just thought I'd chime in with a change in the Brio 10 that showed up in my kit. It now has 2 magnets to hold the canopy on. Flyoff has been no problem. I'll also say that after reading the posts back mid summer I almost did not get a Brio. I have been thru planes that snap with the early Cap 230 and 231's and don't need that in my life. Caps after the 232 do not seem to have these issues and fly nicely. Just before I decided to get something else, and it really was an electric pattern plane I wanted not a 3D plane, I went over and checked out the long thread on E-Zone. Don't know why but they have only had one post of a snaping Brio. The thread is alot longer than this one and alot more aircraft and just the one. So I went ahead and bought it and am delighted I did. I put in the first 6 flights on it today. Not only can I report it has zero tendency to snap but it is one of the easiest planes to create a picture perfect landing in I have ever flown. Just bring it down to about 2 feet off the ground and it will settle right on at a level attitude.

There we no trim issues to speak of. I'm balanced about 105mm aft and that is nose heavy for my tastes. It definately needs to go aft, my guess aft of 110 to perform inverted with neutral elevator. I'm using the Eflite 480, eflite 45amp controller, APC 11X7E, all servos in the tail, and flew with both 2450 Apogee and 2150 Thunder tiger 20C cells. The Apogee was noticably cooler after the flights but neither was at all hot. The apogee was just about body temp and the Thunder tiger was warm. I've started moving the batteries and cg aft on the way to finding the cg I like.

I will input that in the early caps if too much elevator throw was used at low speed you would get a snap. I'm wondering if some of the snaps last summer were from using high throws at low speeds. Even the high rates listed in the book are WAY short of what I normally use for medium rates on 3D planes. In fact they were more on the order of 3D low rates in 3D models. I have no way of knowing if the lost planes were set up with too much throw or not. But the wing on this plane is alot smaller than my flying buddies Katana X which uses the same power system and is obviously a pure 3D plane. The Brio wing loading is alot higher and speeds of course are alot higher. Anyway, that is my input. If you are concerned about the plane from some of the posts I think if there was an issue its solved. Build it straight and keep the throws reasonable and its a pretty comfortable plane to fly. Nice and fast too. Has the speed range I'm used to with my glo patten ships. I have not explored the 3D realm with it yet. I have enough 3D planes that I'd rather just use this as a point and shoot plane, but I'll find out what it does probably next time out.

bob branch

(in reply to SS2P)
       Post #: 226

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 12/18/2006 3:35:40 AM   
starcad



Posts: 227
Joined: 12/8/2001
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Not sure if it was in this thread or not but someone asked about carbon fiber landing gears for the Brio. I found these at a site and am wondering if these would fit and basically work on the Brio.

http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=1864

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       Post #: 227

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 12/18/2006 12:44:12 PM   
rjbranchii


 

Posts: 351
Joined: 4/9/2004
From: Harsens Island, MI, USA
Status: offline 		starcad

No they are the wrong shape to work on a Brio.

bob branch

(in reply to starcad)
       Post #: 228

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 12/19/2006 2:37:03 AM   
starcad



Posts: 227
Joined: 12/8/2001
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks Bob for the reply, anyone found a replacement for the gear yet?

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       Post #: 229

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 12/27/2006 12:33:54 AM   
flybrian


 

Posts: 27
Joined: 7/23/2006
From: Jackson, TN, USA
Status: offline 		Hey Bob,
Maybe you can help me out here with my Brio. I have the power 10 in mine with the both servos in the rear, The CG is @ 100mm have both high and low rates set up on recommended settings. When I am on high rates my plane wants to roll out on loops and turns if I pull back too far on the elevator stick. Not so much on the low rates but on high rates it has the same characteristic's as my 46 size p-51 and they can be snappy. Even at high high speeds bank and pull back too far on the stick and it will roll out and start to fall. I have the several other planes in this size range Seagull extra300, Mini Funtana X, Extreme Flight yak, GP Reactor and even the Mini Pulse. and none of these planes will roll out or snap on a hard yank on the elevator like this Brio.
So I been flying this one on the low rate setting for the elevator and high on everything else and just being careful with it not to yank it when I am too close to the ground to not recover so far so good, but just can't seem to get how this brio can have 2" elevator throw and along with aft cg not snap, unless some of us got a not so perfect brio.
I do love this plane, it is the fastest electric I own right now since I don't have my speed wing anymore it was allot faster

Brian

Oh I wanted to add I like to fly my planes a little aft on CG to have nutral stck on both up right and inverted flights this is my only plane that is foward on cg right now.

< Message edited by flybrian -- 12/27/2006 12:51:48 AM >

(in reply to starcad)
       Post #: 230

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 12/27/2006 4:32:59 PM   
rjbranchii


 

Posts: 351
Joined: 4/9/2004
From: Harsens Island, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Bran

This is going to sound wrong. I know it did to me cause it flew in the face of everything I have "known" about snapping aircraft. But I wread the entire thread here and the one on Ezone and it was consistant with te BRIO. It seems this plane snaps more easily in normal maeuvers at forward cg's. Tod you it would sound wrong. But almost every Brio I read about that was lost was at a forward cg. Try moving it aft. Another thing you might find helpful is programing in some negative exo (futaba term, sorry don't know how it works on other transmitters). If you fly iwth some, increase the amount. What this can do is slightly delay the amount of throw on your high rates. This lets the plane start to change attitude some before you get to full throw. If you want to see it in action, program in some really bizare amount for yourself of expo on elevator high rate and set up you say medium elevator rate as the same throw as the high but at no expo. Thereare alot of ways to use expo. I have oly been in RC a few years so I have used it ever since I discovered on my sim when I was learning that I could not fly the trainer level as easy without expo as with it. Lo and behold the real plane flew the same. Then you can work out an amount that works good for you and the plane.

Check out also that you do not have a rudder trim issue or a lateral balance issue. Do the lateral balance check before you fly next time and then go out and do some upwind /downwind pullups to a verticle upline and make sure the plane is tracking vertically. once you adjust to get verticle tracking with rudder trim then check out the snapping issue. I think you'll be supried to find it decreases with aft cg. I still have further to go, but if you check the two threads you will find that no one with far aft cg reports snapping.

Good luck,

bob


(in reply to flybrian)
       Post #: 231

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 12/27/2006 6:01:08 PM   
flybrian


 

Posts: 27
Joined: 7/23/2006
From: Jackson, TN, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks Bob
When I fisrt set up my brio and all other planes I have, I do a lateral balance so it is nice an even. and use anywhere from -35 to -55 expo on high rates on my planes ( depending on the planes ) I got this one at -50 expo now. I will use less neg expo on low rates so I can get the same feel on the sticks as I do with high rates. I will move the CG back moore and give it a shot.
Thank again for your help

Brian

(in reply to rjbranchii)
       Post #: 232

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 12/31/2006 12:33:10 AM   
Jonathan.Lam



Posts: 301
Joined: 2/8/2006
From: london, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		hi

i know this is a electric forum, but can i just ask would the brio 10 be any good with a .18 sized engine?

thanks
jonathan

< Message edited by LiL_Chinky_b0i -- 1/1/2007 2:06:04 PM >

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Jonathan.Lam

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       Post #: 233

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 12/31/2006 2:00:05 AM   
swlarcham



Posts: 392
Joined: 4/9/2002
From: DeQuincy, LA, USA
Status: offline 		Jonathan
Ask Thedude from post # 108. He put a OS25 in his.

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       Post #: 234

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 1/1/2007 2:24:34 AM   
rjbranchii


 

Posts: 351
Joined: 4/9/2004
From: Harsens Island, MI, USA
Status: offline 		I fly a Sig Lil Something extra that is designed for an 0.69-74 with an LA .15 in it. It flies it wonderfully as a sport plane but for the vertical performance you demand of a pattern type plane you really would need to go to a good hot .25. Yes it is sacraligeous I know on this group and in general to go from electric to glo but I am sure having a ball with a Katana mini with a 4 stroke .30 up front. There may well be a second Brio in my life for when winter is over and its not so cold out.

bob

(in reply to swlarcham)
       Post #: 235

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 1/1/2007 2:05:43 PM   
Jonathan.Lam



Posts: 301
Joined: 2/8/2006
From: london, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		but the thing is...i have two .18 sized engines doing nothing ... except from sitting around.

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Jonathan.Lam

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       Post #: 236

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 1/1/2007 4:50:53 PM   
rjbranchii


 

Posts: 351
Joined: 4/9/2004
From: Harsens Island, MI, USA
Status: offline 		John
You will be adding weight to the plane to mount a glo motor in it. There is not enough structure up front as it is to absorb the motor vibrations and of course you need to wall off the fuse from fuel entry. On my Katana Mini I build a ply fuse box out from the existing fiewall area to replace the motor box area and position the motor where it needed to be. I placed the fuel tank behind that. That was not a real good call, I really had trouble fitting the tank in front of the carbon fiber tube spar. I did manage to find an odd tank to do it, was from the Hobbico twin engine arf and was available from tower. A better solution I saw on another glo conversion was to put the tank in the motor box itself. I closed off the cooling holes in the firewall with thin ply. With the tank that far aft I was just a tad nose heavy but was not going to 3D the plane. I set it up as a sport aerobatic plane. I used a very weak motor (an OS .30 4stroke) which has just a little more power than the LA .15. The os is nothing like a Saito .30 which has great power. The plane does all I could ask and gives the os a home. But there is absolutely not unlimited verticle or anything like it. With a pattern plane that is something you want. Its there with the Brio and electric power. I think you want to aim at that kind of performance if you go glo. The .18 would fly it, I'm just not sure with the vertical you want.

bob

(in reply to Jonathan.Lam)
       Post #: 237

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 1/4/2007 5:14:24 PM   
Jonathan.Lam



Posts: 301
Joined: 2/8/2006
From: london, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		does anybody know the brio's bare airframe weight?

thanks

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Jonathan.Lam

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       Post #: 238

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 1/4/2007 8:56:50 PM   
Mr. Mugen



Posts: 5537
Joined: 3/24/2006
From: Ishpeming, MI, USA