RE: BRIO Electric 10-size

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Logged in as Guest

Users viewing this topic: none

Printable Version

All Forums >> Electric Aircraft Universe >> Electric Pattern Aircraft >> RE: BRIO Electric 10-size

Page: << < prev 1 [2] 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 next > >>

Login

Message

<< Older Topic Newer Topic >>

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 4/17/2006 1:48:46 AM

mups53

Posts: 1080
Joined: 1/15/2002
From: Hoffman Estates, IL, USA
Status: offline

Jeff so far you've picked the right stuff. You'll need an esc like a cc35 or an Eflite 40amp. The Lipo's will need to be 3S 2100 mils. Run an 11x7E APC prop and your in. Good luck with the little bugger. Oh yaeh rear mount the rudder servo. Mike

(in reply to JEFFRO503)

Post #: 26

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 4/17/2006 4:31:23 PM

handglider

Posts: 692
Joined: 3/14/2005
From: Hotlanta, GA, USA
Status: offline

Hi All,

for my torque motor installation, I had to extend the firewall 5/8 in with 1/8 balsa and .007 carbon. I will be able to shorten the 4-40 bolts and stand offs by about 3/8", this only added about 10g.

The only problems I have had with the kit so far is a cracked front turtle deck former and warps in every control surface, the warps all came out, but things where pretty twisted. the other thing is the wheel pants attachment, I've added 2-56 blind nuts and socket head screws.

It's really coming together nicely, I should have it all together tonight. modifying the firewall slowed me down a little bit.

_____________________________

The dude on the left

(in reply to mups53)

Post #: 27

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 4/17/2006 8:53:26 PM

bdavison

Posts: 3334
Joined: 8/23/2004
From: Warner Robins, GA, USA
Status: offline

I just finished my Rogue3D bipe.

Using a Park 480, E-flite 40A ESC, Hitec 05S rx...
The 480 is super smooth, runs glass smooth, tons of power....and quiet...I mean REALLY quite...as in you can barely tell its running quiet even at full throttle.

I got a chance to look at the Brio a few nights ago. Im impressed. Nice tinted canopy, HUGE fuselage, nice and wide. Im hoping that e-flite will release QQ yak in this size range....Id be all over that. These little electrics rock.

_____________________________

teamflyingcircus.com

(in reply to hemituda)

Post #: 28

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 4/19/2006 2:06:22 AM

contempo

Posts: 283
Joined: 10/8/2002
From: NC
Status: offline

Anyone else out there having trouble mounting the spinner w/ APC 11x7E on the prop adaptor that is included with the Eflite 480 motor? After I get the prop and spacer on so the spinner backplate will clear the prop, there is no shaft left to mount the spinner cone on! Does anyone make a 4mm prop adaptor with a longer shaft?

Matt

_____________________________

I'll fly anything once...

Matt

(in reply to bdavison)

Post #: 29

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 4/19/2006 2:13:53 AM

dizzane

Posts: 71
Joined: 10/20/2003
From: bondurant, IA, USA
Status: offline

I did but I then switched to the 11x7. I like the pull I get out of the 11x7 better as well.

(in reply to contempo)

Post #: 30

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 4/19/2006 3:36:03 PM

bdavison

Posts: 3334
Joined: 8/23/2004
From: Warner Robins, GA, USA
Status: offline

contempo, you'll probably have to mill the prop down. Im using a E-flite 11x7 on my 480. I did have to drill the prop out for the larger shaft diameter, but the center hub is thin enough so that the spinner will still have enough to get a good tight grip. Whatever you do, make sure that collet is locked down good an tight. If its not tight on the motor shaft, it will toss the prop off in midair. Most of these electrics have the glide slope of a brick, so a powerless airplane is gonna be really hard to land dead stick.

_____________________________

teamflyingcircus.com

(in reply to dizzane)

Post #: 31

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 4/19/2006 4:07:34 PM

mups53

Posts: 1080
Joined: 1/15/2002
From: Hoffman Estates, IL, USA
Status: offline

I dumped the spinner in favor of the rounded prop nut. I like the simplicity and it's also lighter. My spinner needed so much scarfing out that it was out of balance. Mike

(in reply to bdavison)

Post #: 32

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 4/19/2006 7:03:05 PM

OhD

Posts: 413
Joined: 10/23/2002
From: west hills, CA, USA
Status: offline

How did you get rid of the warps in the control surfaces?

Jim O

quote:

ORIGINAL: handglider

Hi All,

for my torque motor installation, I had to extend the firewall 5/8 in with 1/8 balsa and .007 carbon. I will be able to shorten the 4-40 bolts and stand offs by about 3/8", this only added about 10g.

The only problems I have had with the kit so far is a cracked front turtle deck former and warps in every control surface, the warps all came out, but things where pretty twisted. the other thing is the wheel pants attachment, I've added 2-56 blind nuts and socket head screws.

It's really coming together nicely, I should have it all together tonight. modifying the firewall slowed me down a little bit.

(in reply to handglider)

Post #: 33

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 4/19/2006 7:21:50 PM

mups53

Posts: 1080
Joined: 1/15/2002
From: Hoffman Estates, IL, USA
Status: offline

Warps? You call them warps? You need to see the other lil electric planes on the market 1st. I guess when they make planes this light it's somewhat of a problem. I just used my heat gun and messaged it back to shape. Mike

(in reply to OhD)

Post #: 34

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 4/19/2006 11:33:32 PM

scatdawg

Posts: 2
Joined: 3/27/2005
From: Oakland, MD, USA
Status: offline

just ordered the brio today with the eflite 10 brushless. has anyone else flown this plane yet? any pros or cons other than the aforementioned ones? just looking for anything to watch for when i assemble this weekend thanks

(in reply to mups53)

Post #: 35

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 4/20/2006 12:58:16 AM

patrnflyr

Posts: 222
Joined: 1/14/2002
From: Lubbock, TX, USA
Status: offline

Place the rudder and elevators servos in the back and make sure that you can offset the rudder servo downward because they'll contact the elevator servo from the other side. Watch for control surface warps and fix before building with heat gun. Don't use the heat gun anywhere close to the canopy (from experience). Some people are adding a second magnet so the canopy doesn't eject while flying. Good luck, I'm going to maiden mine soon, just can't get enough energy after work to go out and try it. Maybe this weekend.

(in reply to scatdawg)

Post #: 36

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 4/20/2006 1:40:36 AM

handglider

Posts: 692
Joined: 3/14/2005
From: Hotlanta, GA, USA
Status: offline

Hi Mike and all,

well, warped, or whatever you wanna call it... they did come out nice with a heat gun and iron. first I just used the heat gun and flexed the surface in the right direction, putting the heat on the outside of the curve, a bit of trial and error. then I basically ironed the TE flat against a piece of MDF board. My other plane, a Quiet Storm came out of the box nice and flat without those "whatever you wanna call its" so I guess I was lucky there.

Another thing you want to look for is broken glue joints and cracked formers, my turtle deck former behind the canopy was cracked in 3 places. I ran a little thin CA around the forward formers and LG mount.

Also I extended my firewall 5/8" with 1/8 contest balsa and .007 carbon. which allowed me to shorten the 4-40 bolts by 5/8 inch and I replaced the thick nylon outrunner standoffs with 1/4" carbon tubing saved about 16 grams - those nylon standoffs are way heavy. like 2.7 grams compared to .5 grams for the carbon. The Torque Outrunner is shorter than the eflight outrunner. So I think I at least broke even with extending the firewall weight wise, or maybe saving about 1/4 oz.

I installed my s75 servos in the tail and there is not enough clearance so I block up the rear servo mount with 1/8 balsa. My cowl fits real tight, was a bit touchy getting it lined up just right, I installed 2-56 blind nuts to mount the cowl to the forward fuse. I also CAed in little pieces of carbon at the wing attachment bolts, seemed like the first time I slightly tightened the bolts I was crushing the wood there.

also the wheel pants need more than just tiny wood screws to hold them on, I did a 2-56 bolt, blind nut and 1/8" wide carbon spacer - used the same 1/4" carbon tubing I used for the motor standoffs. I also replace the 2mm crappy axle hardware with good 2-56 bolts, nuts, I layed up a carbon stearable tail wheel bracket last night, I'll finish it out tonight and install it with a tiny foam wheel. those plastic skids last about two flights on paved runways.

my big problem now is after I got everything together, it seems like I have a bad speed controller. So I am back at the hobby shop tomorrow to get a replacement. and just maybe I'll get to fly her if it's not raining here.

I did get it on the scales and it looks like I'll be right at 30 oz +-, the outrunner I am running is rated at 388 watts so it should spin that 11x7 apc really well, it is about 3 oz heavier than my quiet storm.

cheers, Dean

_____________________________

The dude on the left

(in reply to scatdawg)

Post #: 37

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 4/20/2006 2:00:08 AM

Adamg-RCU

Posts: 722
Joined: 4/22/2003
From: Saskatoon, SK, CANADA
Status: offline

Dean, are you sure it is a problem with the ESC? Is it possible you are drawing more current than you expect?

(in reply to handglider)

Post #: 38

RE: BRIO Electric 10-size - 4/20/2006 2:53:10 PM

handglider

Posts: 692
Joined: 3/14/2005
From: Hotlanta, GA, USA
Status: offline

Yea, the guy at the hobby shop thinks it's defective, it's totally dead with no juice going to the reciever - servos or motor.....

_____________________________

The dude on the left

(in reply to Adamg-RCU)