Posts: 170
Joined: 1/10/2006 From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA Status: offline
Well I guess I better get in on this upgraded chassis then....Heck...why not...already spent way too much time and money on this stupid thing...might as well make it an obsession!
If someone can e-mail the dimensions of the chassis and all the holes...I can draw something up I think would work. I'm thinking of a chassis with a built up backbone and ribs..kind of like this picture of a random piece I found on google images...with the addition of a backbone of course.
Instead of using sheet aluminum...use plate aluminum and then machine down to expose the ribs and backbone. THEN..when all the machining is done bend the 30 degree front lip.
I can do a 3D drawing for Dr.Honda's machines, plus a flat template for cutting...and a blueprint for Dr.Honda to work from if he wants it.
With a 1/4" BullNose it would take maybe 15 mins of machine run time. 1/4" cut the pockets, tool change and drill holes, tool change and countersink all the holes, bend the front...done.
If we are going to make a custom chassis...lets make it STUPID strong.
Posts: 104
Joined: 6/15/2005 From: Cambridgeshire, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: azzman
Dustin: Use a different rod, you probably have some sort of high tensile or spring steel which is making it not easy to work with. G et some some mild steel or some stainless and go from there.
EDIT: Sorry Spentona, didnt mean to repeat you, posted at nearly same time! Flat bar makes sense to me too.
To be honest I looked at using aluminium flat bar because it would eliminate the need to weld it and also because its easy to bend (although that may cause a problem in itself).
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Just cause that piece is left over doesnt mean it wont work.
Well I guess I better get in on this upgraded chassis then....Heck...why not...already spent way too much time and money on this stupid thing...might as well make it an obsession!
If we are going to make a custom chassis...lets make it STUPID strong.
I know what you mean... One day I see Nitro RC's at a monster jam show, next thing I know I have 2 funfactors and Im looking for parts on ebay everyday and on the forum several times a day.
Oh well...
I agree about the strength. But wouldnt that ribbed alum be really hard to keep clean? Can you find a pic of something thats actually made of that type of alum?
Posts: 2065
Joined: 4/16/2004 From: Cleethorpes, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
ribbed isnt a problem, just more time and cost. depends what people are willing to pay and what the , this is for a cheap, beginners truck after all. but pretty much whatever u want can be added.
just give me ur email address and I can send u the .dwg file, DrH may be able to convert it to something more suitable for ur software tho.
would a single piece top plate be more desirable? ill draw one up, see how it looks.
other than that - the stock jt chassis layout is what u guys want? it means new mounts for the laid down steering servo btw.
maybe a new thread just for the chassis would be better?
IMO go flat not ribbed, yea it will look cool for the first 5 mins but after its bashed a little all thats gonna happen is it will look a real mess when its been stoned chipped and chunked out. Plus where its countersunked holes will look messy and catch on stuff. Smoother the better I reackon for a chassis. Make the chassis the same length as the magnum and use its top plate, buy the magnum (plastic) brake seat so you have the mounts for the top plate, with this you can add the lay down steering servo mounts to it. IMO the aluminium brake seat is overkill with a top plate (and freakin expensive!) So those with a ali brake seat either sell it on the Bay or make a 10 min bracket with a piece of bent ali and drill and tap a couple of mounting holes to join it to the seat. I may have said this before but making a really good top plate can not be done with a flat piece of ali as it provides difficulties in mounting the throttle servo, and IMO mounting a servo up through the top plate is not the desirable option. Why make something thats already done? In saying that why make a new chassis at all when you can go out and buy the Magnum ONE piece chassis, CEN have addressed the issues of chassis flex (by the looks of it all, I dont have one) with the Magnum so its just a case of getting those parts for your MT2. Dont make things harder than they have to be... Hey guys JMO ok.
I agree with the ribbed alum bit. I do like the alum brake seat though but yeah its expensive.
Maybe all we need is an aluminum throttle servo mount thing to connect the upper plate to the servo mount, then the servo mount to the brake seat and the plate above the spurs. I think nitromacguyver had something like that but it was really rough just being handmade.
ya heres a pic from his gallery.
< Message edited by dustin7837 -- 4/26/2006 9:51:44 PM >
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Joined: 7/25/2005 From: ,,
MO, USA Status: offline
Anyone know what the new Magnum chassis is made of? Is it stiffer than the MT2 chassis or the same strength? If it is as strong as the JT Chassis, it would make sense to use what's already out there. But I personally don't like the plastic top plate myself.
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"Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." -- Benjamin Franklin
Posts: 2065
Joined: 4/16/2004 From: Cleethorpes, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
did u see the alloy throttle servo mounts i got to try out? they are a little short, but i used spacers and it made a fair bit of difference, im just lacking that link to the brake seat. u can see where i was going from another spammed pic below. i think the mounts are from a xxx-t, but not certain, another cheap asiatees.com job. a kind of buttressed brake seat would work too, i reckon, very simple, but gonna be pricey again. i keep coming back to a full length, 1 piece top plate, but like azzman says, its the throttle servo mounting thats the problem there. bending a piece of alloy to the kind of angle needed to join the brake seat to the throttle servos rear mount isnt going to provide much extra strength it a hard crash either, i feel. dustin - that 2nd pic u posted looks good to me. something like that machined up, nice and pretty would be the ticket imo, but again pricey. but thats what i want.
as for the magnum gear - i doubt a plastic top plate will take my bashing sessions very well tbh, so im with alvin there. same goes for the magnum chassis too - what grade is it and how thick? i need something solid to try to get a 1/8 centre diff into my mt, and i dont fancy using the jt as a prototype.
Posts: 104
Joined: 6/15/2005 From: Cambridgeshire, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Hey doc could you make an alum break seat for less than $50??? Your building the rest of the car anyway might as well make a full set of uprated parts.
Also cen have confirmed now that they have produced the metal spur gears part numbers FF102 & FF103. No more stripped spurs (well at least when they get them in the UK there wont be).
< Message edited by Spentona -- 4/28/2006 1:02:29 AM >
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Just cause that piece is left over doesnt mean it wont work.
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Joined: 4/4/2005 From: Latrobe,
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Spentona
Hey doc could you make an alum break seat for less than $50??? Your building the rest of the car anyway might as well make a full set of uprated parts.
Also cen have confirmed now that they have produced the metal spur gears part numbers FF102 & FF103. No more stripped spurs (well at least when they get them in the UK there wont be).
I can probably make it, but let’s finish up the chassis and diff cases.
Is it just the support bulkhead? If it is… I can do it for less than $50. (but it won’t be anodized)
Now personally… I would like to reproduce what Dustin7837 made. First of all, there isn’t anything like that out on the market. Second, it looks strong as hell. Third, it WILL remove the flex from the chassis, whereas the aluminum bearing support will only reduce flex.
I guess I really need to buy one of these trucks so I can make a few custom parts. I’ve been looking on eBay… but either I miss it, or they go for too much.
Does anyone have an extra rolling chassis that they want to sell cheap? (or trade for parts) I don’t need a radio.
< Message edited by Dr Honda -- 4/29/2006 12:49:29 PM >
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Tony Owner of A&L Motorsports (formerly ARO Products) Manufacture of custom alloy parts.
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I JUST THOUGHT OF SOMETHING!!!!!!!
The answer to the chassis flex, and bracing seems too simple to be true.
I need a picture of a stock FF, from the side, looking at the throttle servo. (Dustin’s pic is good, but it doesn’t have stock parts) I also need a top shot of the throttle servo. The pics need to clear and in focus… and only of the servo and surrounding parts. (don’t get too far away, or too close)
I will disclose my idea shortly… and it may be added into the chassis kit!!
(I’ll also post this on the chassis thread)
< Message edited by Dr Honda -- 4/29/2006 1:15:14 PM >
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Tony Owner of A&L Motorsports (formerly ARO Products) Manufacture of custom alloy parts.
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Dr. Honda. Here are a couple I took of my truck when I first got it. I don't have a lot of real close ups from the original box, but I hope this helps. If you need more, I can take some custom shots. Mine is not too far from original, just really dirty...
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"Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." -- Benjamin Franklin
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RE: Bulletproofing FunFactor - 
