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RE: BCMAEngines - 6/23/2008 3:59:28 AM   
OK2Fly


 

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From: Antioch, TN, USA
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I'm back from a day of flying and tinkering. I used the trial and error method, and now I have no burbling anywhere except around idle, but that's okay. The 26 lugs my 10lbs. Showtime just fine, but it takes nearly full power to hover. Right now, I'm using a Xoar 18x6, but I prefer the 16.5" APC. The engine runs lean on the ground and richens up in the air depending on airspeed...the faster I go, the more it acts rich.

My 26 is cowled in with the velocity stack sticking out, so the airflow may be causing the engine to behave the way it is. I really like this engine. It's provided carefree use for the past 4 gallons, although it produces less power than some of the purpose-built gassers in its class, it's a great way to start with gas and a good value as well. Adam will take good care of ya!


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RE: BCMAEngines - 6/23/2008 4:29:53 AM   
Pit-Viper 1



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I've been thinking of using the SPE 43cc for the showtime when I put the 26 in my Spit. Adam brought one in exchange for an early SPE40cc to a guy who was having nothing but trouble with it. With in 5 min. it was purring away and was absolutely flawlessly for the few flights we recorded it. It was pulling around 20lb. plane with authority. I will post some vids of it when I get it from the guy I was filming with at War Birds Over Denver. Was good to see Adam again, sporting his blonde hair due... He came all the way down from Laramie Wyoming to deliver the engine as well as take care of personal business. Now thats customer service..


Shane

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RE: BCMAEngines - 6/23/2008 4:37:56 AM   
OK2Fly


 

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From: Antioch, TN, USA
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Do it. Post pics.


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RE: BCMAEngines - 6/23/2008 8:23:58 AM   
e-fly


 

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From: shanghai, CHINA
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Hi Flyer freq

you are one good person , I revere you!

But, you have been cheated about that who is the SPE designer!

In fact, the SPE designer has always been member of the MELODY-ENGINE company , had never left
our company.

Now our company has already formally applied for a brand in China. Prevent from other person embezzles , undermines my company's reputation.

I believe that you will be clear.

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RE: BCMAEngines - 6/23/2008 12:38:02 PM   
Flyer Freq



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From: Appleton, WI, USA
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Hmm! I guess I stand corrected. The story I have passed on is the common story being passed around. I apologize if I have passed on bad information.

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RE: BCMAEngines - 6/23/2008 3:09:57 PM   
e-fly


 

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From: shanghai, CHINA
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Thank you!

Our company once fire a people who betrays our company , what designer he was by no means.

The truth is very difficult to understand that in talking here , I have but a god-fearing heart!

I do not hope that this mistake is continued propagation.

I believe in the people good and honest.

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RE: BCMAEngines - 6/23/2008 9:35:02 PM   
linkadrip



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Ok i built a test stand for my engine, but it wont run now at all i did get it to pop a couple of times. Checked the ignition it's getting spark battery is fully charged. Think my carburator is clogged with debri. i was reading somewere around the begining of this thread that there is a screen in the carb probably would be a good thing to check. i run a filter on the engine and have done so since i got the engine. But still it probably has dirt in it although i choke it and open the throttle and rock the prop and fuel gets on my finger. Doesnt really make any sence really it was running and dieing before and then i took it off the plane sat it on the bench for awhile and now that it mounted on a stand it wont run at all. Only difference is its upright instead of inverted, but that shouldnt make a differrence i wouldnt think. the engine should run in any configuration. as it does on a plane in the air.

Well time to take the carb off and start lookin for the problem. Since the ignition sparks and fires must be that its not getting enough fuel although the spark plug did have fuel on it when i pulled it out. Last thing i did notice is the fuel in the line drains back down after i prime it will drain back down the line into the tank i dont remember that happening before maybe that's normal but as soon as i start flipin the prop it will start to climb back up the line to the carb. Shouldnt matter were i have my tank since the carb has a pump in it.

Must be the carb. oh well something to do tommarrow..

Currently this is the issue that i have found with mine.
problem: the fuel leaks back into the gas tank when it isn't running possable solution:Bad fuel pump membrane, or an air leak in the fuel line at the carb And its not the fuel line leanking unfortuantly.

been awhile since i have rebuilt a carb hopefully it will run better then it did before, or it will at least run again..

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< Message edited by linkadrip -- 6/24/2008 8:27:21 AM >


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RE: BCMAEngines - 6/24/2008 5:28:18 PM   
linkadrip



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Well this morning i went out and took my carb off and removed the pump plate and the screen was a little dirty but not to bad cleaned it. and there didnt appear to be dirt any were else in the carb. i removed the diaphram side and it looked good no dirt in that side needle looked ok and moved freely. needle setting is correct. put that back together replaced the o ring on the fuel filter that is in the line and that was were the leak was causing the fuel to drain back into the tank. put it all back on set my needles for intial start up at 1 1/2 turns out to start . Primed real fast fuel dripping out the end of the velocity stack. Took the plug out and it was wet with fuel so i know its getting plenty of fuel.

checked the gap its 8 mm not sure what the corect gap is suppose to be but put the plug in the cap turned on the ignition and stuck it against the head and flipped the prop and could see a good spark. So i put that all back together and stated flipping the prop for 20 minutes or more off and on and got it to fire once after 40 or more flips then that was it wont run i dont get it plenty of fuel getting spark what else could it be. this engine ran fine for the first gallon of fuel and now nothin. i'm very confused checked the hall sensor to see if it was loose nope timing didnt change so now what. maybe my spark isnt hot enough i wouldnt think it would realy matter as long as there is a spark. now next thing i'm going to do is remove all the fuel. USe a new batch maybe the fuel is the issue. but i dont see how it could go bad in a month being sealed in a container.

And if that doesnt work then i guess i will have no choice but to send it back to BCMA. I thought about getting a new EI for it but a 70 bucks if thats not it then i would be wasting money. I would imagine it will still be under warranty i havent modded the engine or done anything to void it So that will be the next step after trying a batch of new fuel if that doesnt work.


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RE: BCMAEngines - 6/24/2008 5:57:07 PM   
Flyer Freq



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Hey Linkadrip!

Do you have a timing wheel? I would check that timing, just for kicks. It doesn't have to be off by much to make the engine really hard to start. I have tried to compare your engine to mine, as to the location of the hall effect sensor, and it is too hard to tell.

When you have the plug out, and in the spark plug cap, you don't have to hold it against the engine to ground it. The shielding wire does that for you. Turn out the lights. Rotate the prop and make sure that the only spark you see is at the plug electrode. There is a gap in the spark plug cap. Make sure that you don't see any spark inside the cap. If you do, your cap insulator is compromised. I had this happen to me. Very strange to see!

Good luck!

Andy

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RE: BCMAEngines - 6/24/2008 5:58:17 PM   
Flyer Freq



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From: Appleton, WI, USA
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Oh, and blow out the spark plug to make sure it is dry.

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RE: BCMAEngines - 6/24/2008 6:21:21 PM   
karolh


 

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From: Mandeville, JAMAICA
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Try using an electric starter and see what happens.

Karol

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RE: BCMAEngines - 6/24/2008 6:24:58 PM   
Flyer Freq



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From: Appleton, WI, USA
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I was studying the pictures further. Is that a metal clevis on a metal pushrod? I haven't quite figured out why it is, but that can cause problems. I had heard this from someone, and wasn't convinced. I tried it, and depending on the position of the rod, it caused problems with how the engine ran, including totally shutting the engine off. If that is a metal clevis, try a nylon one. It is a long shot, but ....

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Lose not thy airspeed, lest the ground rise up and smite thee!
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RE: BCMAEngines - 6/24/2008 8:51:18 PM   
Pit-Viper 1



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Thats how this engine is starting to make me feel .. lol Anyway, I had this thing running great aside from the interference issues. I actually felt so good about it I finally put the cowl on. So I get out to the field and am Still having glitching problems so I swapped out the receiver and that took care of that. After getting it running I proceeded to taxi out and do some run ups to see how it ran and it died. So I started it back up and ran up the throttle and it stuck wide open for about 3-4 sec. Back to the pitts and then it started running like it did in this video. http://www.rcuvideos.com/item/TVM40LXWPTC24QQB

This time though I noticed that the ignition light was blinking in sync with the motor cutting out. That was the end of that, flew another plane then came home. I'm thinking the throttle sticking may be due t the fact I am indeed using a metal clevis on a metal push rod. And come to think of it I saw another gasser out there with a plastic clevis. I will change that out and see what happens. I was glitching before I even turned on the ign. before I changed receivers. I will try it real quick and see what I find out.


Shane

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RE: BCMAEngines - 6/24/2008 10:04:45 PM