armycopter
Posts: 616
Joined: 2/10/2006 From: Biddeford,
ME, USA Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: W37 Cepeda I figured out how to stop the "EVERLASTING YAW SYNDROME" This is what I call it know.. as you many of us have the pleasure of seeing the DF37 in a unforgiving yaw spin with no end. No matter the direction... and worst, the trim does not fix it. After many hours of adjusting the servo shaft at both ends, still too no resolve... I figured it out, so know I don't have do a mod on it. The problem lies with the speed of the main rotors. Many of us crashed DF37 and replaced the blades. But did you actually verified the angle of attack? The angle on the blades that produces the lift? Well.. the more angle you have, the more lift, but you put more strain on the motor, and cut your battery fly time if you have to much angle.....which by the way ..if you have more angle, your rotational blade speed is lower, just enough to set your yaw outa wack if not aligned properly. HENCE my solution for the problem with a belt drive. So, picture this, and if you understand it.. you'll get it right away. Cause of the mechanical aspect of the DF37, you will never, ever, and never, get the DF37 to rotate counter clock wise " the same direction as the blades rotation" by adjusting the trim or the servo rod, or what ever you do unless you "SUPER MOD IT"...this only suppose to happen by inertia, and ONLY WHEN HALF OR MORE THROTTLE IS GIVEN. The rotation speed of the rudder blade is directly proportional to the speed of the main rotors. The way it works, is totally controlled by the Reciever unit. In theory, there is a set MID point (throttle speed) at this stage, you should have enough rudder to keep the DF 37 from drifting counter clockwise. (hence were you should make your mecanical adjustment) Second, when this point is passed (throttle up more), the receiver will start to send a signal to the servo that controls the angle of the rudder blades. The more throttle you give, the more angle of attack should the rudder blades have. This is to compensate for the more rotational inertia force manifested by the main rotor blades. Because of the difference in the main blade angle of attack, from the mid throttle point, to full throttle, the trims should be sufficient on alignment. If your trim does not work, then your are very far from the MID point setting. On my unit. I have the angle of the main blades to the point were at full blast it won't fly.. I just want it light enough for it to hover on the training kit. At full throttle.. when the DF37 nose is facing away from me, when I move the rudder joystick to the left, it causes the DF37 to rotate counter clock wise.. it's very responsive. But this happens not because the servo puts so much angle on the rudder, as a matter of fact, it does not, it hardly puts some at all! You get it? It takes very little at full throttle. IF you get this right on MID point, the clockwise YAW will fall into place on it's own. This is the way it should be. Hope this helps. Cepeda- I'll give you some more info on the "YAW" problem. The way I fixed it: 1. Move the tail servo to the tail boom - This just takes out some of the slop from all the linkages and makes things more responsive. 2. Center up the servo arm as well as the tail slider. (there are lots of posts on how to do this) 3. Make sure the GYRO is set to about 70%, AVCS, and NORM 4. Turn on the TX, Turn on the Aircraft, and flip DIPSWITCH number 12 to the ON position. Start with both V1 and V2 fully COUNTERclockwise. 5. Try picking up the aircraft to a hover. You can play with the V1 and V2 knobs with the DIPSWITCH ON until you get it perfect. Once you are happy, Turn Number 12 OFF. You'll be amazed how important the right dipswitch/V1/V2 settings are for this thing. It as the last thing I tried and it made a huge difference!! After I put my brushless motor in, there was so much power, I could not keep the tail from spinning. Now it locks on perfect.
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