RE: Bridi UFO Build (all wood)  
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RE: Bridi UFO Build (all wood) - 9/14/2006 1:12:58 PM   
8178



Posts: 3029
Joined: 5/25/2004
From: _ , USA
Status: online 		Military schemes were very popular in the 60s and 70s. Ralph Brooke’s Gladiator and my Century design in the 70s. And the Blue Angel!

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< Message edited by 8178 -- 9/14/2006 1:31:40 PM >

(in reply to Paternguy)
       Post #: 151

RE: Bridi UFO Build (all wood) - 9/14/2006 2:57:27 PM   
rainedave



Posts: 5188
Joined: 7/21/2005
From: Greensboro, NC, USA
Status: online 		Thanks all. The Bob Violett site has lots of great schemes. One limitation is that I've already bought the dope; dk blue, orange and white. I can mix to an extent, such as yellow, lt blue, green.

Here're two with a lot of variation between top and bottom and I have the right colors:

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< Message edited by rainedav -- 9/14/2006 2:59:07 PM >

(in reply to 8178)
       Post #: 152

RE: Bridi UFO Build (all wood) - 9/15/2006 12:35:46 AM   
rainedave



Posts: 5188
Joined: 7/21/2005
From: Greensboro, NC, USA
Status: online 		I started work on the wing fillets. I mixed 15min epoxy with microballoons and poured the mixture onto the wing and ply fillet base. I supported the fuselage with scraps of foam so that the epoxy mixture flowed into the shape that I wanted. I didn't use a stick or my finger to try and shape the stuff.; it was too sticky. By propping the fuse at about a 45 degree angle the epoxt settled in the corner making a concave surface against the side of the fuse and the ply base. Now I have to wait for it to cure completely so I can sand ot smooth. I'll still nedd to fill a few places here and there with putty.

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(in reply to rainedave)
       Post #: 153

RE: Bridi UFO Build (all wood) - 9/16/2006 3:50:55 AM   
rainedave



Posts: 5188
Joined: 7/21/2005
From: Greensboro, NC, USA
Status: online 		I sprayed two coats of Brodak White Primer onto the fuselage.

The good news is that the butyrate dope based primer adhered to every area of the fuselage. I was worried there might be a spot or two that would reject the finish. Usually when I'm painting anything wooden - models, furniture or whatever - there's at least one little problem spot that has to be sanded and cleaned to get the finish to stick. Luckily, I didn't encounter that problem here.

The bad news isn't really bad since I knew I would have to deal with it. One of the main reasons for priming a surface is so that imperfections become more visible. The C/L guys actually spray their models with silver dope so that every little dimple, low spot, and sanding scratch show up and can be filled. Anyway, there are plenty of these on my fuselage. The next step is to fill these, sand, spray two more coats of primer and final sand for the color. I should have all that done over the weekend. In the meantime I need to coat the wing with nitrate and attach the Koverall. Then, it will get the same primer/filler/primer treatment. I'll leave the silver dope to the experts!

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(in reply to rainedave)
       Post #: 154

RE: Bridi UFO Build (all wood) - 9/16/2006 3:55:28 AM   
Paternguy


 

Posts: 628
Joined: 3/9/2002
From: East Berlin, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Looking good Dave.

Here are a couple of mine as I have made a little more progress.

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(in reply to rainedave)
       Post #: 155

RE: Bridi UFO Build (all wood) - 9/16/2006 4:08:16 AM   
Jim_Purcha



Posts: 1024
Joined: 9/18/2003
From: La Salle, MB, CANADA
Status: offline 		Nice finish. What type of hinges are you using for the control surfaces?

(in reply to Paternguy)
       Post #: 156

RE: Bridi UFO Build (all wood) - 9/16/2006 4:22:04 AM   
Paternguy


 

Posts: 628
Joined: 3/9/2002
From: East Berlin, PA, USA
Status: offline 		I am going to use the great planes pinned hinges. I wanted to do the CA type but I wasn't sure how good a bond I would get with foam safe CA. So I went old school with epoxied hinges.

(in reply to Jim_Purcha)
       Post #: 157

RE: Bridi UFO Build (all wood) - 9/16/2006 4:37:35 AM   
rainedave



Posts: 5188
Joined: 7/21/2005
From: Greensboro, NC, USA
Status: online 		Thanks, both of you. jpurcha, I still have time to change my mind on the hinges since it's one of the last things I'll glue in place. I bought a package of Radio South 1/4 scale Pro-Hinges (CA type) since I like to keep hinging as simple as possible. These things are very, very strong. When I built up the elevators and rudder I glued blocks against the front of the trailing edges, so there's plenty of wood in there to add any type of hinge, even Robarts if I wanted. Anyway, the Radio South hinges have a good following and a reliable reputation.

(in reply to Jim_Purcha)
       Post #: 158

RE: Bridi UFO Build (all wood) - 9/16/2006 5:07:01 AM   
stiletto660



Posts: 176
Joined: 7/15/2006
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Status: offline 		So would you recommend that I not use the sandable primer that we usually use for automotive paint, and instead use the dope-based primer on my current project? (When I take the plunge and try out the dope for the first time.)

(in reply to rainedave)
       Post #: 159

RE: Bridi UFO Build (all wood) - 9/16/2006 5:32:17 AM   
rainedave



Posts: 5188
Joined: 7/21/2005
From: Greensboro, NC, USA
Status: online 		First, I didn't realize jp was talking to Paternguy! Yes, his UFO looks absolutely great, and the fact that it was sprayed from cans is even more impressive. I was certain he had a $200 gun. For some reason the plane looks small in the photos. That must be a pretty big flight box.

stiletto660, just test the products on some scraps first. I can't see where it makes any difference as long as everything is compatible. It's been many years since I used to finish furniture and I've forgotten most of what I knew, but because there are so darn many variables in painting (temp, humidity, pressure, viscosity, chemistry, moon phase and so on) I try to eliminate some of them if I can. So, I chose to stick with the same product throughout. It's just one less thing to worry about, and I'm not a chemist. One thing about the dope-based primer is that it's apparently more sensitive to air pressure than the clear and colored dope. I noticed a few places where the primer was drying before it hit the fuselage, but adjusting the regulator fixed it.

< Message edited by rainedav -- 9/16/2006 5:34:20 AM >

(in reply to stiletto660)
       Post #: 160

RE: Bridi UFO Build (all wood) - 9/17/2006 2:51:35 AM   
rainedave



Posts: 5188
Joined: 7/21/2005
From: Greensboro, NC, USA
Status: online 		Not too much progress today. I got the fuselage filled and sanded. I searched half of Greensboro and couldn't find the 3M lacquer-based filler that is supposedly best to use under dope. That's ok since it's almost $18 a tube. I went with Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, instead. It dries very fast and sands extremely easily. You just have to make very thin layers. It's not bad stuff.

A couple more light coats of primer tomorrow and a final sanding with 400 grit. I'm really looking forward to applying the color. The base color will be Cessna White. It's not a stark white, but not as yellow as cream, either. It's sort of like porcelain. (When I studied art and set design I was taught to never use pure white paint for anything, ever. I've always adhered to that "law" and it's always worked.)

Just a couple of pics to show the Bondo. I guess I paid for not glassing the fin. There was a lot of wood grain that needed filling.

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< Message edited by rainedav -- 9/17/2006 2:52:09 AM >

(in reply to rainedave)
       Post #: 161

RE: Bridi UFO Build (all wood) - 9/18/2006 1:10:18 AM   
rainedave



Posts: 5188
Joined: 7/21/2005
From: Greensboro, NC, USA
Status: online 		All in all, a pretty good weekend. I feel like I got a lot done. I'm happy with the fuselage and as far as I'm concerned it's ready for the colored dope. The fairings around the stab and fin aren't perfect, but they look fine. One could go on forever finding little imperfections and fill and sand until the end of time, but I'm at a point where it will look better than anything I've built before which is a success as far as I'm concerned.

One thing is for ceratin, I have a new respect and admiration for those modelers who produce flawless finishes. It takes enormous skill and patience to achieve that. It is something to aim for, anyway. To think that there was a time when almost every pattern flyer went through all this work is truly amazing. You have to have a passion for building. I can see how arfs are a godsend to those who don't.

My little $10 Harbor Freight touch-up gun has really hung in there. I'm pushing the compressor, though, as it runs quite a bit to keep the tank at full pressure. But, since I'm stepping the pressure down to around 35psi at the regulator I haven't had the tank drop below that. In fact, it hasn't dropped below about 80psi even with the gun going non-stop. It works great as long as you don't mind the noise of the compressor, which doesn't bother me.

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(in reply to rainedave)
       Post #: 162

RE: Bridi UFO Build (all wood) - 9/18/2006 1:34:59 AM