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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/3/2007 9:16 AM

proulxlaw

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What I had to do with the 180 is bring the bushing to a machine shop along with the motor and have them enlarge the hole so that it would fit onto the prop shaft. Cutting the crankshaft and having to have the bushing modified was a pain in the a$$ but, once it was done it was worth the hassle.

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/3/2007 9:24 AM

kahloq

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quote:

ORIGINAL: proulxlaw

What I had to do with the 180 is bring the bushing to a machine shop along with the motor and have them enlarge the hole so that it would fit onto the prop shaft. Cutting the crankshaft and having to have the bushing modified was a pain in the a$$ but, once it was done it was worth the hassle.

Yeah i was afraid of that

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/4/2007 12:06 AM

Luxuswaffe

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Where I just said that with the brass made prop adapter. Overturned the spinner setscrew leaving the brass nut with no threads left. Had to fly without spinner. Will the TruTurn adapter assembly work on the 109?

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/4/2007 1:36 AM

THESCALEMAN

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for anyone who might be interested....my 109 build thread.....

http://www.rcmf.co.uk/4um/index.php?topic=25688.570

cheers

dave

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/4/2007 2:46 AM

kahloq

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Luxuswaffe

Where I just said that with the brass made prop adapter. Overturned the spinner setscrew leaving the brass nut with no threads left. Had to fly without spinner. Will the TruTurn adapter assembly work on the 109?

An 8mm tru turn will fit the 180 fine, but will be longer then the scale spinner prop nut. It may require that you cut the prop shaft down yet again. Additionally, the hex bolt for the tru turn is a bit bigger in diameter then the small one that came with the spinner...so you may need to drill out the hole in the fornt of the spinner.

BTW...on mine....I've put 2 x 1500 Nimh rx packs up at the nose(inside fuse) against the firewall for the onboard glow. If I gotta add weight at the nose, might as well be useful. I've also built a servo tray for the throttle, rudder and air retract servo that sits lower towards the wing so the rudder pushrod can clear the bottom of a cockpit box for the pilot that I intend to make. This tray is removeable as well. There are ply rails under the tray which were epoxied to the fuse.

Also those holes in the tray that comes already glued in the fuse out of the box are perfect size to fit the ex small air tanks from robart and two will be used in those two circular cut outs

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/4/2007 9:28 AM

kahloq

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Ok....built the cockpit box and placed the pilot in. Also added German WWII dash gauges and the little red LED in the center is the onboard glow indicator. I did not chop the body of the pilot. His legs are intack and inside the plane.
The orange tube is the tank fill line. Theres that one circle indent on the side of the fuse, so i figured that was a perfect spot to locate the fill dot.

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/5/2007 12:06 AM

.50cal

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Kahlog,are those guages from KMP.If so be careful as mine were not glued solid and after installing them and working more on the plane all but 1 began to rotate off level.After taking them apart I found they are in three layers clear lense,guage and then a cardboard backing that is glued in place.If you havent attached yet you may want to check it out! Believe me it was a lot of work to get them straigt once installed.Hope this trp helps.
Kevin

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/5/2007 2:43 AM

kahloq

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quote:

ORIGINAL: .50cal

Kahlog,are those guages from KMP.If so be careful as mine were not glued solid and after installing them and working more on the plane all but 1 began to rotate off level.After taking them apart I found they are in three layers clear lense,guage and then a cardboard backing that is glued in place.If you havent attached yet you may want to check it out! Believe me it was a lot of work to get them straigt once installed.Hope this trp helps.
Kevin

They are not from KMP, but Hobby-lobby. But, I believe they are the same kit. Dont worry, I made sure they were well glued together and also ran thin CA along the outside rims of each one when installing to make sure they didnt move or come apart.

On a different note, I have managed to keep the tail wheel steering linkage completely inside the tail of the fuse, so there is no external linkage from the rudder to the tail wheel stear arm. It is a rather long pushrod inside the fuse that goes directly to the rudder servo up front. The plastic sheath around it has been secured in a few places via epoxy along the way. The rudder is running off the same servo, again with a long pushrod. I opted not to use the wood dowls either. As a result of the two metal pushrods going the length of the fuse, I will not put the antenna inside the fuse to the tail, but will make it exit just behind the cockpit(scale) and run it to the vertical stab. I do this on all of my glow warbirds, so, its not like I am doing different just due to metal pushrods potentially causing intereference.

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/5/2007 5:49 AM

.50cal

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Nice on the internal hardware!I'm about complete w/my build.I recieved a great tailwheel assembly from Darrel at SGS,he said it was for a large stuka and could be modified for the 109.Mine turned out great.It uses pull/pull as does the rudder.One small hole was made to setscrew the bellcrank and the hole was covered w/extra covering from the wheelwell cutouts.Rudder and tailwheel use the same servo.The hole needed for the connection was only 1/4".I will post some pictures soon for you to see! I think everyone will like the way it looks and functions.The price of the tailwheel fork is $25.

Kevin

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/5/2007 6:51 PM

Steve Collins

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Kahloq,

If you are using PCM, I think there is no reason not to run your antenna through a tube inside the plane unless you just prefer it to be outside. I use a JR10X on all of my jets with the antenna run down a tube to the tail inside the fuselage. This passes carbon fiber turbine bypasses, the engine itself of course and a stainless steel tailpipe. I have never had any range issues ever with this sort of setup. It seems the metal push rods would not cause a problem either.

In your photos, I noticed that you have not cut out the several vents, etc. on the nose of your 109. Do you intend to? I have the same kit and I will open them up on mine. Just a little thiing but it is the little things that add up to a really cool looking plane.

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/7/2007 3:02 AM

kahloq

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Steve Collins

Kahloq,

In your photos, I noticed that you have not cut out the several vents, etc. on the nose of your 109. Do you intend to? I have the same kit and I will open them up on mine. Just a little thiing but it is the little things that add up to a really cool looking plane.

I am using PCM and I thank you for the description and that it works well internally. I do prefer to have the rx outside for scale appearance, but its nice to know there shouldnt be interference issues.

As far as the vents, yeah I have them cutout and already painted and "worn" with oil stains. I need to tidy up some of the rough edges, but I still have to cut a small hole for the flex pipe exhaust tube somewhere behind the bottom chin scoop and also a small hole for high speed needle adjustment. The side exhaust exits are opened as you can see and the paint is a copper color over-sprayed with flat black while the copper was wet so it wouldnt cover the copper, but kinda meld in and show through in spots without actuually mixing/changing the copper color any.

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/11/2007 2:40 AM

kahloq

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New pics. Note the muffler in use....its a flex pipe from the saito 450 radial. Fits nicely on a 1.80. I also cut the end off and note that it is not visible when the cowl is on. Its run through the chin scoop and the rear cowl air exit is where the exhaust will flow out. The on comming air through the chin scoop will help keep most of the residue off the isnide of the cowl, but I do expect to have a little cleaniong to do after a days flying. I'd prefer that then having a big honking muffler protrude somewhere.

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/11/2007 4:18 AM

Luxuswaffe

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Still having issues with the spinner. The propellor adapter screw is not strong enough to hold the forces. Even the big rubber insert is simply too small to transfer the power from the e-starter to the spinner.

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/11/2007 4:31 AM

kahloq

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Luxuswaffe

Still having issues with the spinner. The propellor adapter screw is not strong enough to hold the forces. Even the big rubber insert is simply too small to transfer the power from the e-starter to the spinner.

A friend of mine with a 1.50 size P-51 got an electric starter that has the rubber portion thats about 3 times the diameter of the hobbico torque master ones. As such, there's a lot of surface area for the starter to turn and should work well if you can find one.
Another possible solution is to take the spinner off and run your motor for several gallons of fuel to get it loose enough to use a stick to "hand" start the motor using the prop.
My saito 1.80 can be started using the smaller torque 90, but I havent tried it with the spinenr on it yet.

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/11/2007 4:43 AM

kahloq

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For the wing radiator and oil coolers, I cutout the front parts and put some wire mesh in it to look more scale. As the manual shows, I cutout the back portions of those coolers so the air can freely pass through. This keeps the radiators from actually contributing to drag and the manual does show cutting out the front spots, but the mesh just makes it look better IMO.

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/13/2007 3:07 AM

Luxuswaffe

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Kahloq,

I mentioned you didn't cut your Saito's crankshaft. How are you going to fit the spinner on and what prop nut/adapter will you be using?

And will you not loose power with your flex exhaust?

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/13/2007 5:24 AM

esacco

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Does anyone want to sell their 109? Thanks!

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/13/2007 12:15 PM

Idigbo

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Luxuswaffe

Still having issues with the spinner. The propellor adapter screw is not strong enough to hold the forces. Even the big rubber insert is simply too small to transfer the power from the e-starter to the spinner.

A good tip on the 'starting with the scale spinner front' is to get a new standard starter cone, and simply CA a squash ball or similar into the end. I use a cut down 'chicken finger' glued in. This then locates in the scale hole on the spinner, centering the starter every time. My 109 has been running now for over 3 years and never had to change the cone insert.

Hope this helps, Ian.

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/14/2007 3:05 AM

kahloq

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Luxuswaffe

Kahloq,

I mentioned you didn't cut your Saito's crankshaft. How are you going to fit the spinner on and what prop nut/adapter will you be using?

And will you not loose power with your flex exhaust?

I did actually have to cut down the crankshaft by 5 threads worth. No, I wont lose power with the flex exhaust. As a amtter of fact, it will help lessen the fuel usage if it acts anything like the .56 I ahve with a black straight pipe. I have a .72 saito with a flex exhaust pipe and i didnt have to change the needle settings much for it.

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/14/2007 5:45 PM

Jagdfleiger

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Ian,
Thats an interesting way of adapting the starter cone for large spinners. I would be interested in seeing a picture of it if you have one. I have a 109G with a spiral spinner. I was concerned about messing up paint job on the spinner with a starter cone.

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/17/2007 1:22 AM

kahloq

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Idigbo

A good tip on the 'starting with the scale spinner front' is to get a new standard starter cone, and simply CA a squash ball or similar into the end. I use a cut down 'chicken finger' glued in. This then locates in the scale hole on the spinner, centering the starter every time. My 109 has been running now for over 3 years and never had to change the cone insert.

Hope this helps, Ian.

I did this using a cat toy sponge type ball and epoxied it into the standard starter cone. Works exceptionally well. I also do not have any type of "chicken finger" on it, only the ball.
Friend with a saito 220 was surprised the torque 180 with the sponge ball could turn over my 180 at all, but it did it just fine.

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/17/2007 8:55 AM

Luxuswaffe

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Thanks guys! That are some awesome solutions to start the engine. Next stop at Petco!

Meanwhile I was shopping for a new spinner design. The 14 mm brass nut to hold everything in place is giving me goose bumps. Asked Bob Holman Plans on Brian Taylor accessories what he has for his 68' wingspan 109. He ceased selling plans and accessories and is accusing KMP/YT of copying his plans. Lenny Shindin is not interested in the 109 spinner business at this time.

I found this beautiful spinner picture at: http://www.rcmf.co.uk/4um/index.php?topic=25688.570
Diameter 117 mm x 71 mm height. It looks like it is the spinner of the later E7.

I wonder if the Dave Brown' FAI spinner would give up a good 109 spinner.

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/17/2007 6:15 PM

kahloq

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Luxuswaffe

Thanks guys! That are some awesome solutions to start the engine. Next stop at Petco!

Meanwhile I was shopping for a new spinner design. The 14 mm brass nut to hold everything in place is giving me goose bumps. Asked Bob Holman Plans on Brian Taylor accessories what he has for his 68' wingspan 109. He ceased selling plans and accessories and is accusing KMP/YT of copying his plans. Lenny Shindin is not interested in the 109 spinner business at this time.

I found this beautiful spinner picture at: http://www.rcmf.co.uk/4um/index.php?topic=25688.570
Diameter 117 mm x 71 mm height. It looks like it is the spinner of the later E7.

I wonder if the Dave Brown' FAI spinner would give up a good 109 spinner.

The E7 spinner look would be real nice and could also use a standard starter cone, but trying to modify a DB FAI spinner might not give so good results once cuts are made. A local machine shop might be able to help you out though. As far as KMP/YT copying plans from Brian Taylor, that is extremely unlikely. KMP/YT is 5.5" bigger then the 68" Brian Taylor, its fiberglass and not a built up fuse so trying to copy a plan and then make it into a mold for fiberglass would still require upsizing it considerably. An ME-109 looks pretty much the same per type..ie E4 no matter who makes it. Also, as per pics of the BT ME-109, the air intake on the side of the front fuse area is not the same. At least as shown on Bob Holmans site, both the 61" and 68" have a tropical air intake setup, not the standard Eastern Front angled slat intake.
Doesnt much matter anyhow. KMP/YT is in business and Brian Taylor is not anymore. KMP is obviously for those of us without enough time or patience to build from plans or even laser cut parts while still getting a really nice looking ME-109.

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/17/2007 7:45 PM

Luxuswaffe

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I agree. BT's 109 is far off KMP's. There is a BT Me 109 E4 build thread at RCU:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3269976/anchors_3269976/mpage_1/key_brian%252Ctaylor%252C109/anchor/tm.htm#3269976

Regarding a Dave Brown FAI spinner: They make them only in sizes up to 3 3/8'. Draw a scale 109 spinner. What is the math behind the elliptical form? Cutting out of bar stock, I will need reliable waypoints for a CNC lathe.

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RE: KMP / YT Me 109 E Build Thread - 9/17/2007 8:30 PM

kahloq

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I just weighed the plane as a complete unit. I had tried doing so on a digital kitchen scale, but had to do the fuse and wing separate. So, the weight actually came out wrong since I had to hold the fuse or wing which effected the outcome. Initially I thought I got a combined weight of 14 pounds 10oz and I was not that enthused about that weight, but its not exactly accurate trying to hold the fuse on the scale on its nose. I saw the weight jump alot simply trying to hold the fuse perpendicular. So, just now....I remembered we have a bathroom scale that is digital.
I got it out, set a stand on it and then set it to zero.
Put the plane on it complete with wing bolted on and the weight was 13.5 pounds. Woohoo. Lighter then i originally thought.

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