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RE: How light can you go! - 4/3/2006 3:56:26 AM   
sensei


 

Posts: 378
Joined: 7/16/2002
From: SAN ANTONIO, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I cut the wing tube holes utilizing the root rib template and a template that slid into the slots you see in the middle of the wing, next I took a 10/32 extension drill and penetrated the root rib to the wing center slot rib, next I slid a piece of nyrod though the root rib hole to the center slot hole, this allowed me to slide a piece of 020" nichrome wire through the wing. I then pulled the nyrod out of the wing ; leaving the wire exposed on both ends, I then connected both ends of the wire to the hot wire bow, added the power source and followed my templates in a circular motion, and thats really it. Yes I will show pictures of the wing cores after the weight reduction and prior to application of the sheeting.

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RE: How light can you go! - 4/4/2006 12:38:23 PM   
lsnover


 

Posts: 625
Joined: 4/29/2002
From: Bath, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Sensei:

This is all very intersting, but if your willing to go to this much effort, why not just build a kit and do it to your liking?

FWIW, I'm using a Can because it's quieter, not because it has more power. In fact some indications are they produce less power.



Cheers!
Lee

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RE: How light can you go! - 4/4/2006 12:43:55 PM   
lsnover


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: lsnover

Sensei:

This is all very intersting, but if your willing to go to this much effort, why not just build a kit and do it to your liking?

FWIW, I'm using a Can because it's quieter, not because it has more power. In fact some indications are they produce less power.

Any chance of you making some extra wing sets for sale?



Cheers!
Lee

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RE: How light can you go! - 4/4/2006 2:39:19 PM   
sensei


 

Posts: 378
Joined: 7/16/2002
From: SAN ANTONIO, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Hello Isnover,

If I could have purchased a kit of a 50 cc size Yak, believe me, I would have. I could not even find one. On my 100 and 150 cc engines adding canisters have proven to turn more RPM, however header length plays a critical part in all this.

Bob

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RE: How light can you go! - 4/5/2006 3:07:49 AM   
sensei


 

Posts: 378
Joined: 7/16/2002
From: SAN ANTONIO, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Here are a couple more pictures of the wing construction.

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< Message edited by sensei -- 4/7/2006 1:50:16 AM >

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RE: How light can you go! - 4/8/2006 4:56:22 AM   
rcfury



Posts: 968
Joined: 10/19/2003
From: Manassas, VA, USA
Status: offline 		I think that is straight up awsome. Keep up the good work. I really like the job on the wings. How much did the stock wings weigh?

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RE: How light can you go! - 4/9/2006 1:54:28 AM   
sensei


 

Posts: 378
Joined: 7/16/2002
From: SAN ANTONIO, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Hello RC Fury,

Thank you for the complement. The left wing had a weight of 1 lb. 9 oz's and the right wing was 1 lb. 11 oz's Totaling 3 lbs. 4 oz's. The new wings are looking like they will come in around 2 lbs. Time will tell.......

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RE: How light can you go! - 4/11/2006 3:10:15 AM   
OnTheEdge



Posts: 1157
Joined: 1/14/2002
From: Drums, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Very nice work. Quite impressive. Best of luck on achieving your diet goals (the folks at Weight Watchers would be proud )

.................Mark

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RE: How light can you go! - 4/14/2006 4:04:08 PM   
sensei


 

Posts: 378
Joined: 7/16/2002
From: SAN ANTONIO, TX, USA
Status: offline 		The competition grade sheeting for the new wings came in yesterday afternoon, so now I can get these things finished up.

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RE: How light can you go! - 4/14/2006 4:38:14 PM   
whaturi



Posts: 746
Joined: 11/4/2005
From: harrisburg, PA, USA
Status: offline 		i have a chance to get one of these yaks for a good price from a guy. the horozontal stab incidence is off and he said some of the wing ribs are loose from the tube. i was thinking of possibly taking this on as a winter project and also and introduction to giant scale. i'll keep an eye on your progress\results.

very impressive work.. i can't wait to hear what the wingloading ends up at.
would you be willing to cut and sell foam wing cores for people?

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RE: How light can you go! - 4/15/2006 10:27:48 PM   
sensei


 

Posts: 378
Joined: 7/16/2002
From: SAN ANTONIO, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Hello Whaturi,

Thanks for the complement, I do not wish to turn my hobby into a small business, however if you want to learn to cut wing cores, I would be happy to walk you through it.


Sincerely
Bob Sawyer

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RE: How light can you go! - 4/15/2006 11:13:34 PM   
DENNIS C



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quote:

ORIGINAL: sensei

The competition grade sheeting for the new wings came in yesterday afternoon, so now I can get these things finished up.


bob what is competition grade balsa. where do we get it from.

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RE: How light can you go! - 4/16/2006 1:02:30 AM   
sensei


 

Posts: 378
Joined: 7/16/2002
From: SAN ANTONIO, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Hello Dennis,

Competition grade balsa is considerably lighter than regular grade balsa, it is also considerably more expensive. You can purchase it from several sources but I purchase mine from Sig Manufacturing. Here are a couple more pictures just prior to the sheeting operation. Notice the .125 carbon spar cap tubes, all four tubes have a weight of 20 grams. If in-bedded in a proper bond line will yield a much higher compression and tension factor than hardwood weighing two or three times the weight.

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< Message edited by sensei -- 4/16/2006 2:12:39 PM >

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RE: How light can you go! - 4/16/2006 1:57:38 AM   
CAPtain232



Posts: 2467
Joined: 12/15/2001
From: Waynetown, IN, USA
Status: offline 		Hey Bob,

Don't get me wrong, I am not bashing your work..... I am just curious.

After you get the sheeting on and then get the covering on, I would like to know whether or not you get flat spots where the holes are. I am much like yourself, I like to make things light.....Even if it means only removing an oz or 2. I know that if you can get an oz here and an oz there, they eventually add up to a pound. When I cut holes in foam, I like to HONEYCOMB it so that there are no large openings for the wood or covering to pull a flat spot....Obviously though, honeycombing takes much longer. Even the layout for honeycombing takes longer.....But the time is usually worth it. I will sometimes cut large holes in a FLAT surface such as the rear side of a wing, rudder or elevator.

If you would, explain your hot wire setup...... I am getting ready to put one together. Planning on using a transformer to reduce voltage to 10 or 12 volts and a dimmer switch.

KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK BUD

< Message edited by CAPtain232 -- 4/16/2006 2:03:40 AM >

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