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RE: WACO YMF - 12/11/2012 3:29 AM   
Dash7ATP



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Status: offline 		Hello to the Brotherhood,

I saw this recently but now I can't find it.  I'm refering to where on the wings the pinked tape goes, other than over the rib stitching. If I remember correctly, the rib tape goes around the leading edge of the wing, and the only place the double wide (4inch) tape goes is around the wing tips  and that tape is cut on the bias.I don't remember if the wide tape wraps the trailing edge or not. If I'm not mistaken, the wide tape goes around the perimeter of all of the tail surfaces. 

Any help on this will be appreciated.

Joe

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/11/2012 4:08 AM   
skylarkmk1



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Status: offline 		Joe,

Are the pictures below what you are looking for? You have it correct on the tape placement. 2 to 4" cut on the bias around the tip, 2" on the ribs and 4" on the trailing edge. Remember to have any overlaps face aft (if possible) to keep air from lifting the tape. The rib tapes are normally placed first and the the rest. Reinforcing patches are around any opening (penetrations such as bolts, landing gear bosses, strut attachments), wire, fuel, inspection ports) and where ever there is contact with the inside stucture and external structure (fairings).

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< Message edited by skylarkmk1 -- 12/11/2012 2:58 PM >

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/11/2012 12:32 PM   
Dash7ATP



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Status: offline 		John,

For some reason I seem to remember reading on here that the leading edges of the wing only had the rib stitching tape going around the leading edge and did not have the wide tape on the length of the leading edge. The tips had the bias tape and the rest of the structure as you describe. 

I may not have enough of my tape material to do everything, but I'll use what I have until I run out. Since I'm not doing a 'contest' model, it won't matter all that much. I just want to get it as close as I can within reason. Heck, I haven't even decided on a color scheme yet,  much less an 'N number'. 

Thanks,

Joe

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/11/2012 3:22 PM   
skylarkmk1



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You are correct again about the leading edge. I edited my previous post and removed the erroneous part.

You are also correct about the edges of the tail surfaces being wrapped. The picture below is about the only one I have that shows this (look in the lower part at the rib tape). Terry does such a good job with the prep before painting and the painting is so shinny, it is hard to get a good photo.

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/11/2012 4:00 PM   
Dash7ATP



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Status: offline 		John,

Thanks for confirming that regarding the leading edge.  I assume the bias tape on the tips begins where the curve starts. I just hope the Solar Tex pinked tape (from Mick Reeves) can be worked around the corners. 

That photo looks like it has a lot of dope on it!  The edges of the tape are pretty well filled.  I saw a new YMF this spring at a local festival. You could hardly see the tape on the ribs it wsa so well filled. That was the shiniest finish I have ever seen!


Any suggestioni son how to get that finish without adding a lot of weight. I currently have three coats of thinned down (about 50%) nitrate dope on all parts, and I have another quart can full I am planning to use before I switch to another product.  Got to fill up the edges of this tape for starters....... I hear guys talk about latex.  I bought a half pint can of latex enamel gloss just to test it. ????    I have  also  seen waterbased acrylic enamel.  Any experience with these products? 

 Thanks again for your help.  

Joe

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/11/2012 4:15 PM   
skylarkmk1



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Status: offline 		Joe,

If you have the proper shears (scissors) with the correct "pinked" spacing you can cut your own biased tapes from the covering fabric, just cut at 45° to the weave. The tough part is cutting the tape with parallel sides.

In the photo of the wing the tip tape starts at the transition from straight to curve (in this case at the marker light base) around to the trailing edge.


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RE: WACO YMF - 12/11/2012 4:28 PM   
Dash7ATP



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I don't have any pinking shears. The tape I'm using actually has 25 pinks to the inch (1/5 scale). They may not even show up once I'm finished. I jut hope the Solar Tex tape has enough stretch and shrink to form to the curves.  We'll see.

Joe

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/11/2012 7:02 PM   
nine o nine


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Joe, Don't try to fill the pinked edges. If you scaled down from the full scale you could never them. On my 1/3d I tried to leave the pinks showing as well as the rib stitching and the craftsmanship judge at TopGun remarked about the good surface detail.
BTW I used automotive basecoat clearcoat for a very shiny surface dirctly over the Solartex so the weave peeked through on close inspection. Mitch WB100

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/11/2012 8:22 PM   
Dash7ATP



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Status: offline 		Hi Mitch,

Thanks for the tips! Maybe I won't put so much dope on this baby after all. I'm guessing I will need at least three coats on the stitching, just to seal it good. The big difference is I'm using Koverall for my covering rather than the Solartex, so it does need filing where the Solartex needs very little if any.

Thanks,

Joe




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RE: WACO YMF - 12/11/2012 9:44 PM   
nine o nine


 

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Status: offline 		Yeah, you're right that the Koverall needs filling more than the Solartex. Don't try to get a shiny filled dope finish though. Mitch

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/12/2012 6:48 AM   
skylarkmk1



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Status: offline 		Hey Guys,

Over in the Don Smith Cessna T-50 thread, rhsmrt50 is building a1/5th scale Jacobs engine (dummy, resin cast) that has others beat hands down. Take a look starting about post 792 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10129431/mpage_32/key_/tm.htm and check it out. Pay attention to post 831.

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/12/2012 2:02 PM   
Dash7ATP



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Status: offline 		His dummy Jacobs is a work of art!

Joe

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/13/2012 12:24 AM   
Jim Henley


 

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Status: offline 		Yes it is, the detail is simply fantastic, wonder if one would work in front of a 30 .cc Syssa

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/13/2012 1:14 AM   
chuck l


 

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Status: offline 		I have to put 14 screws in the a wheel fairing cover for third scale Waco. Any ideas of a simple way to evenly space the holes around the perimeter of the part?

Chuck

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/13/2012 1:29 AM   
jymster



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Status: offline 		Chuck, why don't you use a piece of string, or other flexible strand, and measure the circumference of the shape. Then divide this measurement into 14. Then place marks at the appropriate spacing on the string and wrap it back around the faring to transpose the marks onto the fairing.

James.

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/13/2012 3:23 AM   
chuck l


 

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Status: offline 		James,

Thanks for the suggestion. About ten minutes after posting the question, I ran a piece of masking tape around the perimeter and marked the spaces on that. Just what you suggested, but with tape.

Chuck

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/13/2012 4:05 AM   
johnboy151a



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Status: offline 		You could find a known start point and walk off the distance of each screw with a set of Dividers. No different then walking off Rivet pitch on a full scale sheet metal repair.

Just my 2 cents.....

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/13/2012 4:15 AM   
jymster



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quote:

ORIGINAL: johnboy151a

You could find a known start point and walk off the distance of each screw with a set of Dividers. No different then walking off Rivet pitch on a full scale sheet metal repair.

Just my 2 cents.....


Good idea, except that you need a way to find out what the distance between the screws is first. You could use the string/tape method, followed by the dividers.

James.

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/13/2012 8:09 PM   
VOX



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Status: offline 		Hello,

Some new photos ... These two small forms I need to do first.

Albert

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/13/2012 10:46 PM   
jymster



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Status: offline 		Looking good, Albert. I assume this will be available as a kit some day soon?

James.

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/14/2012 12:47 AM   
WacoNut



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Status: online 		Well I finally ordered my parts from AMR to rebuild my Waco. After looking it over and talking it over with Dany from AMR it was deemed necessary to build a new fuse. Too much structural damage in critical strength areas to attemp a repair. I had Dany cut me new fuse parts and ship me a new cowling. I should have all the parts in hand around the Holidays. I hate building something twice but the Waco was just too nice to scrap out.
The rebuild will not take that long but the covering and detailing will be a stretch to get it all completed before spring.
Later!!
Anthony

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/14/2012 1:05 AM   
johnboy151a



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quote:

ORIGINAL: jymster


quote:

ORIGINAL: johnboy151a

You could find a known start point and walk off the distance of each screw with a set of Dividers. No different then walking off Rivet pitch on a full scale sheet metal repair.

Just my 2 cents.....


Good idea, except that you need a way to find out what the distance between the screws is first. You could use the string/tape method, followed by the dividers.

James.

When I was still doing Sheet Metal repairer on Army Aircraft, all I needed was the starting point. You stated that you want 14 screws to hold the fairing, so find the point you want to start and walk the dividers 14 times. Adjust the distance to make it walk the pitch in or out until you have your 14 points and end up back at the point you started.

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/14/2012 1:33 AM   
jymster



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quote:

ORIGINAL: johnboy151a

When I was still doing Sheet Metal repairer on Army Aircraft, all I needed was the starting point. You stated that you want 14 screws to hold the fairing, so find the point you want to start and walk the dividers 14 times. Adjust the distance to make it walk the pitch in or out until you have your 14 points and end up back at the point you started.


Yes, will also work, but a lot of trial and error involved. Whatever works, I say.

James.


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RE: WACO YMF - 12/15/2012 1:48 AM   
mrdhud



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Status: offline 		Anthony,
Glad to see you getting the Waco repaired. Hopefully it will go easy & fast for ya. I know you painted your Waco with latex paint but did you clear coat it and if so what did you use. I have a plane covered with solortex that need to be sealed with some thing.

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/15/2012 9:45 AM   
Stickbuilder



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quote:

ORIGINAL: mrdhud

Anthony,
Glad to see you getting the Waco repaired. Hopefully it will go easy & fast for ya. I know you painted your Waco with latex paint but did you clear coat it and if so what did you use. I have a plane covered with solortex that need to be sealed with some thing.



Dan, Don't forget about weight. Filling weave really put's on the pounds.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

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Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

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