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RE: WACO YMF - 1/3/2013 2:04 AM   
jlhambright


 

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From: Wrightwood, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Very nice, must be fun to fly the full size one! JohnH

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/3/2013 3:37 AM   
Dash7ATP



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quote:

ORIGINAL: WacoNut

Joe,
Double check the date on your can, I have seen some of this stuff that has been on the shelves for a long time and you may see it starting to form some solids in the solution. If so the best option may be to strain the can before doing more coats.

I also do not brush out of the can but poar it into another container(butter bowl) and thin in there and keep the lid on after each use. You will see a plastic film start to form in the bowl where it has started drying. When this happens clean the bowl thoroughly before the next use.

Once you get the hang of how to work with PolyC it is a very good option over dope.
Later!!
Anthony


Hi Anthony,

Thanks for the advice.  I'll check on the date, but I got it at a Lowe's, so I doubt if it's old.

 I think I have diswcovered the secret to applying this stuff.  I did thin it our a little more than my previous attempts mentioned above.  I'm using a one inch camel haire brush with very flexable bristles.  I'm applying this by very lightly dragging the brush bu the end of the handle with the handle at about a 30 degree angle to the surface. This allows the bristles to lay against the surface I'm painting and it allows the PolyC to flow off of the brush almost no bubbles.  My first coat on the bottom of my wing looks great!  I'm becoming quite impressed with the PolyC.  

As for Mike's question on his Monocoupe,  Do it!  You will like the PolyC.  If you're model is glow powered, you may need a fuel proofer over the PolyC. I'm thinking it's good to go on gas.


Joe







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RE: WACO YMF - 1/3/2013 10:27 AM   
Stickbuilder



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From: Wildwood, FL, USA
Status: offline 		NEW BROTHER ALERT!!!

And the first new Brother of 2013 is: jhambright AKA John H.

Welcome, John. You are Brother #232.

As to your question concerning connecting the horizontal stab, you can find photos of the way that I did it in the text.

I used brass tubing at the front and rear of the stab, and filled the tube with a run of dowel. The stab halves then slide onto the tubes and
are pinned in place with 2-56 screws. This makes the halves removable and provides good strength.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

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Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/3/2013 4:27 PM   
jlhambright


 

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Status: offline 		Thanks Bill, a dowel is much lighter, I was just concerned about stress under flight conditions that's why I was thinking about music wire. Thank you for allowing me in the brotherhood. This Waco is going to take some time to build, I was thinking about getting the GP Waco to get some stick time in, most of want I've read about it has been positive, also gives me some time with a gas engine. Thanks again guys.

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/4/2013 11:25 AM   
Stickbuilder



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Status: offline 		John,

Just a minor correction if you please. I don't allow anyone to become a Waco Brother. They do that themselves by first loving these old airplanes, and second by wanting to swap information about them and third by professing the desire to become a brother. This is just as much your thread as anyone elses'. Enjoy it for as long as you like, and then move on as many have. Be sure to drop back in and say hello from time to time.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

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Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/4/2013 3:01 PM   
hopkimf


 

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Status: offline 		Anthony and Joe,

Thanks, I'm going to coat the Monocoupe with PolyC. It is glow right now, but I think I'll put a G-26 on it. Moving away from glow.

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/4/2013 7:44 PM   
jlhambright


 

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Status: offline 		Hi all, this is one of the things I like about golden era aircraft, the nice curves. I wasn't sure of the thickness, guess I will sand until it looks right after framing. Here's my supervisors. This is the first time I've posted photos, not sure if they will go with this message

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/4/2013 7:46 PM   
jlhambright


 

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Status: offline 		Well guess they went with the message.

John, Waco Brother #232

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/5/2013 2:51 PM   
hopkimf


 

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Status: offline 		For Barth 1/3 YMF LE sheeting I picked up ideas from Aminiet, Chuck L and Anthony. Method took three phases: 1. glue and clamp sheeting to spar and let dry, 2. soak with amonia-water mix, wrap with 2 inch masking tape and let dry. 3. Rough cut sheeting to wingtip radius, soak and tape. Worked slick. Better than my clamps, tie wraps, weights, etc. I've done this many times before, but always with smaller models and thinner sheeting that bent more easily.

These forums are really helpful. Thanks.

Mike Hopkins Waco Brotherhood # 132

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/5/2013 3:33 PM   
jlhambright


 

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Status: offline 		Thanks Mike, that helps a lot, I've always had trouble with sheeting over compound curves.





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John, AMA 601984, Waco Brotherhood 232


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RE: WACO YMF - 1/5/2013 4:52 PM   
chuck l


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: mogman

Mike,
As well as wetting the sheeting to go around the leading edge, you can also set your monocote iron on high and use that to steam the sheeting to ease the bending. Works well with thin plywood as well.
You can also ''dry glue and iron'' the sheeting. Put a thin coat of white carpenters glue on both surfaces, let dry 5-10 mins., place wood in position, wet and iron with a hot (300') monocote iron. The heat softens the glue and then thermo-sets it. No taping, no waiting for glue to set. Just hold the part for 15-20 seconds...all done. If you have to remove the sheeting (within a reasonable time), simply re-heat and gently pull away, re-position, re-heat and good to go. I've just finished sheeting a large glider fuse with 1/64 ply panels using that method...works a treat!!

Cheers,
Dave.
W/B #180

Dave,

Does using the heat method decrease the adhesive strength as compared to the regular procedure of using the glue?

Chuck

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/5/2013 5:07 PM   
mogman


 

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Status: offline 		HI Chuck.
I tried to remove a test piece of 1/64 ply that I had ironed on, after an hour or so, and it tore the wood. As far as I'm concerned, the glue joint is as good either way.

Cheers.
Dave.
W/B #180

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/6/2013 9:23 PM   
chuck l


 

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Status: offline 		I've covered the stab and fin with Solartex but have a question. When covering something like a wing, do you firmly attach the covering to the ribs by rubbing it down with your fingers as you would around the perimeter?
Chuck

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/6/2013 11:23 PM   
acerc



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Status: offline 		I personally say no! Let what ever naturally attaches while shrinking be it. This keeps the covering even through out. And believe me it will attach plenty.


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RE: WACO YMF - 1/7/2013 12:47 AM   
RCplanman


 

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Status: offline 		CHUCK 1,When I use Solor or World Tex I just iron it down. I have found that it's better to shrink it with the iron and not the hot air gun whitch can be overdone.Thats what works for me. Bill

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/7/2013 12:50 AM   
hopkimf


 

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Status: offline 		Chuck L,

Here are a few photos of old Monocoupe covered in Solartex. I just went around the perimeter for all the surfaces. The covering adhered well. Also used heat gun to shrink fabric instead of the iron.

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/7/2013 11:38 PM   
hopkimf


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: hopkimf

For Barth 1/3 YMF LE sheeting I picked up ideas from Aminiet, Chuck L and Anthony. Method took three phases: 1. glue and clamp sheeting to spar and let dry, 2. soak with amonia-water mix, wrap with 2 inch masking tape and let dry. 3. Rough cut sheeting to wingtip radius, soak and tape. Worked slick. Better than my clamps, tie wraps, weights, etc. I've done this many times before, but always with smaller models and thinner sheeting that bent more easily.

These forums are really helpful. Thanks.

Mike Hopkins Waco Brotherhood # 132



Forgot to mention I wrapped the LE sheeting for wingtips with the 2 inch tape and had it covered like a mummy. It took forever to set using Titebond. Not much open area for moisture to evaporate. Pulled the tape too early on two and had to redo.

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/8/2013 10:54 PM   
WacoNut



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Status: offline 		My Waco is getting close to being ready to cover. Went much faster than I thought it would.
Later!!
Anthony

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/9/2013 12:21 AM   
hopkimf


 

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Status: offline 		Nice work!

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/9/2013 12:34 AM   
WacoNut



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Status: offline 		Thanks Mike,
Much easier the 2nd time around
Later!!
Anthony

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/9/2013 7:11 AM   
Errol Levin



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Status: offline 		Hi Anthony

Looks great. Please be so kind as to post some close up pics of the coaming so I can see how you did it. I have to do mine, and if you don't mind, I need some ideas.

Best regards and compliments of the season to all.

ERROL #204

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/9/2013 10:58 PM   
WacoNut



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Status: offline 		Errol,
I will get you some pics tomorrow, you can also check out my build thread on the Waco in the R/C Scale Aircraft forum.

I put a piece of black rubber hose(automotive gas line) around the cockpit opening and then glued down vinyl over he top of that to simulate the coaming. I then drilled pilot holes around the perimeter and added the sticthing thru those holes. Worked pretty good.
Later!!
Anthony

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/10/2013 1:16 AM   
Dash7ATP



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quote:

ORIGINAL: WacoNut

Errol,
I will get you some pics tomorrow, you can also check out my build thread on the Waco in the R/C Scale Aircraft forum.

I put a piece of black rubber hose(automotive gas line) around the cockpit opening and then glued down vinyl over he top of that to simulate the coaming. I then drilled pilot holes around the perimeter and added the sticthing thru those holes. Worked pretty good.
Later!!
Anthony


Obviously this is not 1/5 Scale!  I was wondering how to do my coaming.  This is a good idea but will be much more difficult at the smaller size.

I think I would have waited until I have finished painting it prior to doing the coaming.  That's what I'm doing.  Hope I don't screw it up!


It's looking good!

Joe






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RE: WACO YMF - 1/10/2013 1:42 AM   
WacoNut



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Status: offline 		Joe mine is 1/3 scale. I did mine after painting and the hood on the plane is fiberglass.
I have seen other guys on here do very similar with the 1/5 scale as well. If you strip the backing off the vinyl it becomes very pliable and easy to work with. I am sure you can do the same with the 1/5 scale.

I crashed my Waco back in the spring and I am building a new fuselage. All the wood in the fuse is new and I am using the fiberglass parts from the old fuse except the cowling which was damaged beyond repair. I am hoping to leave the cockpit coaming intact and mask it off when I repaint the plane. Will have to wait and see how that works out. Any other plane and I would probably have scrapped it out, just loved the Waco too much.
Later!!
Anthony

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/10/2013 4:32 AM   
Dash7ATP



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quote:

ORIGINAL: WacoNut

Joe mine is 1/3 scale. I did mine after painting and the hood on the plane is fiberglass.
I have seen other guys on here do very similar with the 1/5 scale as well. If you strip the backing off the vinyl it becomes very pliable and easy to work with. I am sure you can do the same with the 1/5 scale.

I crashed my Waco back in the spring and I am building a new fuselage. All the wood in the fuse is new and I am using the fiberglass parts from the old fuse except the cowling which was damaged beyond repair. I am hoping to leave the cockpit coaming intact and mask it off when I repaint the plane. Will have to wait and see how that works out. Any other plane and I would probably have scrapped it out, just loved the Waco too much.
Later!!
Anthony


I understand your feelings  on the Waco. I have been working on mine pretty much every day since I got the kit in early May.  My wife is pretty much sick of it.........."I'll be glad when you are finished with that plane! I never see you anymore!"  It is beginning to get a little old. 

I have three to four coats of Nitrate all over and two coats of PolyC on the wings over three coats of nitrate..  I still haven't decided on what to use for the final finish. I'm very familiar with KlasKote, but have heard about how well the auto Base coat, Clear coat works.  I haven't tried that yet.  Will it go over the PolyC or dope OK?  Any experience with that?  

Latex is a consideration, but I'm concerned about the masking tape lifting it whild doing the trim.
 

decisions, decisions!

Joe



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