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RE: WACO YMF - 1/26/2013 3:52 AM   
hopkimf


 

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Chuck,

I followed my plan mentioned earlier for the tips. That was to do them last after first gluing to spar, letting it dry, and then soaking and gluing the flight direction. Of the eight tips, I cracked two. Just would not go down with the 2 inch tape, so I used a few clamps. For the last two tips, I used a sealing iron on high to pre-form the soaked wood before gluing down. It worked pretty well. On one tip it still didn't want to lay down, so I made a span-wise cut 2 or 3 inches long through the wood. Didn't remove any material. I taped it with the 2 inch tape. Also had to clamp in a couple spots where the tape didn't pull it down well enough. That worked out OK. Had a bit too much heat on wood with sealing iron. Some discoloration.

One thing I noticed was the kit supplied wood didn't bend as well as the BUSA sheets I bought to replace damaged sheets included with kit. Also I don't know the age of kit. It's an early version. I bought it on RCU and it sat some years before I started.

Mike Hopkins

Waco Brotherhood #132

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/26/2013 11:20 AM   
Stickbuilder



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quote:

ORIGINAL: WacoNut

Chuck,
I do not use dope for filling the weave just atatching the fabric. When I thin the dope I use a good quality laquer thinner. If I were going to be using the dope for filling the weave and finish color with dope I would use the dope thinner to match the dope I am using.

I have not seen any ill effects from using laquer thinner to thin the dope for attaching the fabric. I had a tough time removing the fabric from my 33% Waco after the crash to access the damage.


As far as the Javelins on the flying wires go I have seen Waco's with the wires thru the javelin and secured by wrapped string coated with a sealer(dope?) and a couple that were actually secured with zip ties. I had mine secured with zip ties and on display at the Waco museum and a spectator made mention that my plane looked great but he thought the javelins just didn't look right with the zip ties holding them on. About a half hour later he came back and appologized for his comment as there were 2 Waco's parked that had zip ties holding the javelins on

I installed new flying wires the day before the crash and had the wires going thru the javelins. Will most likely do the same this time around.
Later!!
Anthony


Anthony and all, there will be no ill effects from using lacquer thinner. Nitrate Dope is Nitrocellulose Lacquer and there is no difference in the SIG or Randolph Dope thinner and another good Lacquer thinner.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/26/2013 1:08 PM   
WacoNut



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Thanks Bill that is good to know.

Chuck, the wing tip L/E pieces can be a real pain. I do remember one or two of them splitting on me as well. I did wind up using quite a bit of filler to get mine to smooth out to my satisfaction. The 1/8" balsa just does not want to make that compound curve very well. It is pretty much just a compromise at the tips, get the sheeting down as best you can and sand and fill as necessary.

Another thing is you want to add some braces to the dowel that supports the wing tip. You may have to give the wing tips a nice tap to seat your panels on assembly at the field and you do not want the tips to be weak. Dany had suggested thius to me and he was correct, you do not have much leverage for assembly other than pushing on the wing tips.
Later!!
Anthony

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/26/2013 7:02 PM   
FMBB


 

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Gents,

I do cut my Javelin so that the wire goes thru as shown on the picture of the NC 14081 and for adjusting the three halves I use clear silicon tubing which will be pushed fwd. and aft of every part to keep in place. If the dia of the tube is very close to the dia of the javelin the tube will stick to it but can be removed quite fast.

Peter
#170

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/26/2013 7:22 PM   
Dash7ATP



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quote:

ORIGINAL: FMBB

Gents,

I do cut my Javelin so that the wire goes thru as shown on the picture of the NC 14081 and for adjusting the three halves I use clear silicon tubing which will be pushed fwd. and aft of every part to keep in place. If the dia of the tube is very close to the dia of the javelin the tube will stick to it but can be removed quite fast.

Peter
#170


This sounds like an idea that is simple and effective! Thanks.

Joe

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/26/2013 8:00 PM   
hopkimf


 

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Here's a few shots of Barth 1/3 YMF LE sheeting described above. Lots of work to go.

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/26/2013 8:03 PM   
hopkimf


 

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Second try with photos.

MH WB 132

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/26/2013 11:11 PM   
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If you modify your wing tip profile so that it is scale, you won't have as much trouble sheeting them. The profile is less pronounced. AMR got it wrong. I offered them a set of the factory drawings, but they refused to make the changes. If you build their kit as cut, it is wrong, and a decent outline judge will have your butt for it.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/26/2013 11:25 PM   
Dash7ATP



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

If you modify your wing tip profile so that it is scale, you won't have as much trouble sheeting them. The profile is less pronounced. AMR got it wrong. I offered them a set of the factory drawings, but they refused to make the changes. If you build their kit as cut, it is wrong, and a decent outline judge will have your butt for it.

Bill, Waco Brother #1



Bill,

It seems that several of the well known Waco kits have a symetrical airfoil. It would be difficult to modify those to get a scale looking tip. How do you judge those?

Joe



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RE: WACO YMF - 1/27/2013 10:15 AM   
Stickbuilder



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Dash7ATP


quote:

ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

If you modify your wing tip profile so that it is scale, you won't have as much trouble sheeting them. The profile is less pronounced. AMR got it wrong. I offered them a set of the factory drawings, but they refused to make the changes. If you build their kit as cut, it is wrong, and a decent outline judge will have your butt for it.

Bill, Waco Brother #1



Bill,

It seems that several of the well known Waco kits have a symetrical airfoil. It would be difficult to modify those to get a scale looking tip. How do you judge those?

Joe




How does the model match the 3 view? That is the only way to judge the model.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/27/2013 5:38 PM   
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For you guys using or going to try Minwax Polycrylic I just covered the fuse on my Waco and filled the weave. I thinned the Polycrylic approx 20% with water. It went on very good and I did not get any bubbles in the surface. After 3 coats the fuse is ready for tapes. I will apply another 2 coats after the tapes have been applied.
Later!!
Anthony

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/27/2013 9:22 PM   
Stickbuilder



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Dash7ATP

Bill,

It seems that several of the well known Waco kits have a symetrical airfoil. It would be difficult to modify those to get a scale looking tip. How do you judge those?

Joe




Joe, you did say difficult, not impossible. Put one with a symmetrical airfoil on my table, and I'll getcha. That is unless you can find an approved 3 view of a full scale with that airfoil. I don't use what I know to be correct, but stick strictly to the 3 view. That is the only fair and unbiased way to judge a model. Same goes for enlarged tail group or lengthened fuselage or cowl. It is either right or its dead wrong. You should see some the stuff that comes across the table. Sometimes you have to stop marking things so as not to totally humiliate the modeller.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/27/2013 9:47 PM   
Dash7ATP



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder


quote:

ORIGINAL: Dash7ATP

Bill,

It seems that several of the well known Waco kits have a symetrical airfoil. It would be difficult to modify those to get a scale looking tip. How do you judge those?

Joe




Joe, you did say difficult, not impossible. Put one with a symmetrical airfoil on my table, and I'll getcha. That is unless you can find an approved 3 view of a full scale with that airfoil. I don't use what I know to be correct, but stick strictly to the 3 view. That is the only fair and unbiased way to judge a model. Same goes for enlarged tail group or lengthened fuselage or cowl. It is either right or its dead wrong. You should see some the stuff that comes across the table. Sometimes you have to stop marking things so as not to totally humiliate the modeller.

Bill, Waco Brother #1


Bill,

Thanks for elabirating on that.  It was pretty much as I expected it would have to be.  It seems a shame to bo to the trouble to build a large plane and trick it out with a lot of detail, knowing  full well it's not scale. Particularly if you plan to enter a big scale meet.  I have been told that BVM had a few small differences in the intake area on the early ducted fan F-86's and provided a Three View to match the changes.  Oh well.

I"m sure the flight judges have their differences as well. About eight years ago, I was CD for a local Scale meet. A local fellow brought an SNJ that he had entered in Top Gun.  Our judges gave him a low score for Realism of Flight because he flew the entire flight at full power. Way too fast for an SNJ. He was upset because he said, "The Top Gun judges didn't deduct for that". What can you say?

 I'm going to a lot of trouble detailing my Pica 1/5 scale, knowing beforehand I won't be entering it in anything other than a few fun flys.  Why? Because I enjoy it.  Heck, the color scheme I'm doing is on a Classic, which the Pica "ain't" .
But, it should look good!

Joe

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/28/2013 11:03 PM   
Dash7ATP



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Windshield Frame 2

After looking at a lot of photos and my three views, I decided the frame appeared too long. So here we go again.  I basically did this one as I did my first attempt, except I decided to go with more but thinner strips of cut fiber glass.   One of the glass types (I used two different types of cloth) did not want to fold around the corner, and keeping it stuck down caused some problems. Bottom line is I ended up with a frame that was thick in some spots and very thin in others. This was due to not keeping up with where I had applied the strips of fabrid.  My bad!  The top rear piece was very thin and basically unuseable.


Joe


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< Message edited by Dash7ATP -- 1/29/2013 2:15 AM >


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RE: WACO YMF - 1/29/2013 2:51 AM   
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Windshield Frame 3

It appears the third times a charm.  This time I tried a completely different technique of laying up the cloth.  Rather than adding the glass one strip at a time, I decided to add the fabric as a whole piece over the frame as in photo two. The only problem I had was after I had added about eight layers, it started to lift in a few places. I tried to keep pressing it down, but the resin would not hold it. I think I should have used a technique I had forgotten about  that I learned many years ago, Rather than trying to put the resin on through the first layer of cloth, a layer of resin is added to the "mold" and allowed to become tacky. Once it starts to set up, the first layer of dry cloth is pushed into the sticky resin and allowed to start to firm up. Before it's cured, the rest of the cloth and resin can be added, That first layer, being tacked down already, should keep the rest from lifting.  The areas that did lift a little are obvious where the blue tape does not show through. I put the tape on the windshield to give me an edge to trim to.  After releasing the plastic over the fuselage, the whole frame comes right off the releases from the clear film very easily due to the green PVA mold release.

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/29/2013 3:12 AM   
chuck l


 

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I sawed slits into the covering following the suggestions you guys made and the balsa conformed to the ribs much easier. A little putty and sanding and the tips will look good.


Bill,
I'd like to become a member of the Waco Brotherhood.

Chuck

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/29/2013 7:26 AM   
VOX



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Hello,
My project continues ... Soon I'll make a negativ form.

Albert

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/29/2013 9:59 PM   
Stickbuilder



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NEW BROTHER ALERT !!!

We have another new Brother. Chuck l is Brother #233.

Welcome Chuck and post often.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/30/2013 3:36 AM   
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A word to the wise!

Apparently 3M has two different "Tacs" in their fineline blue masking tapes now. I bought a new roll several weeks ago that is a darker blue than my previous product. This was 1/4 inch wide and I don't recommend it for use over the Polycrylic.  I have been doing some masking to build up edges for what would be aluminum panels on the fuselage, and around the rudder / stab joint (on my Pica kit). When I lifted the tape it took up the PolyC in several areas.  I'm not sure if it affected the Nitrate dope beneath it, but I don't think it did. In any case, it will be difficult to hide it where I have to add more PolyC to fill it in.

We live and learn................

Joe. 

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/30/2013 10:19 AM   
Stickbuilder



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Dash7ATP

Bill,

Thanks for elabirating on that.  It was pretty much as I expected it would have to be.  It seems a shame to bo to the trouble to build a large plane and trick it out with a lot of detail, knowing  full well it's not scale. Particularly if you plan to enter a big scale meet.  I have been told that BVM had a few small differences in the intake area on the early ducted fan F-86's and provided a Three View to match the changes.  Oh well.

I''m sure the flight judges have their differences as well. About eight years ago, I was CD for a local Scale meet. A local fellow brought an SNJ that he had entered in Top Gun.  Our judges gave him a low score for Realism of Flight because he flew the entire flight at full power. Way too fast for an SNJ. He was upset because he said, ''The Top Gun judges didn't deduct for that''. What can you say?

 I'm going to a lot of trouble detailing my Pica 1/5 scale, knowing beforehand I won't be entering it in anything other than a few fun flys.  Why? Because I enjoy it.  Heck, the color scheme I'm doing is on a Classic, which the Pica ''ain't'' .
But, it should look good!

Joe


I can't comment on his flight scores since I'm not a flight judge. I am the scale outline judge for both Team Scale and Unlimited classes. I'm the one who uses the 3 views to establish how well the model compares to the 3 view as well as photo documentation. I do check for the validation on the 3 views and to ensure that it is an approved version. If there is any question about the validity of the 3 view, then the Chief Judge and Frank will make the decision. This is after all an invitational event, and it does belong to Frank.

I have noticed models flying outside of the scale envelope, both in regard to speed and possible maneuvers. I have commented on both. Nothing looks worse than a Cub keeping up with a war bird. The problem is that most pilots of RC aircraft use the, Yank and Bank method of flying. WFO and manhandle the sticks. To most of them the left stick is only for the throttle as well. Its probably a good thing that I'm not a flight judge. Scores would reflect what I see.

Back to the outline judging, I often see a model like the F97 and the Nose gear angle is nearly always wrong, as is the intake hole. I gig them for that one and it seems that they expect it, rather than correcting the issue. I have only seen 3 models in all my years of judging that had the outline on the money. The first one was a Tupelov Bear that was kind of small for a Top Gun entry, and used contra rotating props. The second one was the F-16 of Graeme Mears in the Thunderbird Livery. The last one was the Sopwith Camel of Marvin Ebersfeld. I judged Marvin's Camel for several years, each time marking carefully what I found outside the scale outline. Each time, Marvin would take the model home and make corrections. The next year his score would improve. The last time his model came on my table, he had accomplished a difficult task. A World War I model that was without exception a perfect rendition of the full scale. This model belongs in an aviation museum. You really do need to see it. This is what judging is for. It enables someone who wants to better the model to achieve perfection. You must be willing to make changes though. I normally see the same model for 3 years. Most builders do not make any changes, and then want to know why I keep hitting the same things. I've been asked if I keep notes on what was wrong with the model. My answer, is, No, I just look at their 3 view the same way each year, and don't see any changes to the model.

I have been accused of being the toughest judge on the circuit, but have always been told that I'm the most fair judge on the circuit as well. I am great friends with most of the builders who's models I judge. I don't care who built the model, and when its on the table, I only look at the way it follows the documentation. I've given some of my best friends low scores, and I've also given them high scores. That's why we can all remain friends. No one gets away with anything.

Bill, Waco Brother #1


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RE: WACO YMF - 1/30/2013 12:55 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

quote:

ORIGINAL: Dash7ATP

Bill,

Thanks for elabirating on that.  It was pretty much as I expected it would have to be.  It seems a shame to bo to the trouble to build a large plane and trick it out with a lot of detail, knowing  full well it's not scale. Particularly if you plan to enter a big scale meet.  I have been told that BVM had a few small differences in the intake area on the early ducted fan F-86's and provided a Three View to match the changes.  Oh well.

I''m sure the flight judges have their differences as well. About eight years ago, I was CD for a local Scale meet. A local fellow brought an SNJ that he had entered in Top Gun.  Our judges gave him a low score for Realism of Flight because he flew the entire flight at full power. Way too fast for an SNJ. He was upset because he said, ''The Top Gun judges didn't deduct for that''. What can you say?

 I'm going to a lot of trouble detailing my Pica 1/5 scale, knowing beforehand I won't be entering it in anything other than a few fun flys.  Why? Because I enjoy it.  Heck, the color scheme I'm doing is on a Classic, which the Pica ''ain't'' .
But, it should look good! www.rcuniverse.com="" src="" />

Joe


I can't comment on his flight scores since I'm not a flight judge. I am the scale outline judge for both Team Scale and Unlimited classes. I'm the one who uses the 3 views to establish how well the model compares to the 3 view as well as photo documentation. I do check for the validation on the 3 views and to ensure that it is an approved version. If there is any question about the validity of the 3 view, then the Chief Judge and Frank will make the decision. This is after all an invitational event, and it does belong to Frank.

I have noticed models flying outside of the scale envelope, both in regard to speed and possible maneuvers. I have commented on both. Nothing looks worse than a Cub keeping up with a war bird. The problem is that most pilots of RC aircraft use the, Yank and Bank method of flying. WFO and manhandle the sticks. To most of them the left stick is only for the throttle as well. Its probably a good thing that I'm not a flight judge. Scores would reflect what I see.

Back to the outline judging, I often see a model like the F97 and the Nose gear angle is nearly always wrong, as is the intake hole. I gig them for that one and it seems that they expect it, rather than correcting the issue. I have only seen 3 models in all my years of judging that had the outline on the money. The first one was a Tupelov Bear that was kind of small for a Top Gun entry, and used contra rotating props. The second one was the F-16 of Graeme Mears in the Thunderbird Livery. The last one was the Sopwith Camel of Marvin Ebersfeld. I judged Marvin's Camel for several years, each time marking carefully what I found outside the scale outline. Each time, Marvin would take the model home and make corrections. The next year his score would improve. The last time his model came on my table, he had accomplished a difficult task. A World War I model that was without exception a perfect rendition of the full scale. This model belongs in an aviation museum. You really do need to see it. This is what judging is for. It enables someone who wants to better the model to achieve perfection. You must be willing to make changes though. I normally see the same model for 3 years. Most builders do not make any changes, and then want to know why I keep hitting the same things. I've been asked if I keep notes on what was wrong with the model. My answer, is, No, I just look at their 3 view the same way each year, and don't see any changes to the model.

I have been accused of being the toughest judge on the circuit, but have always been told that I'm the most fair judge on the circuit as well. I am great friends with most of the builders who's models I judge. I don't care who built the model, and when its on the table, I only look at the way it follows the documentation. I've given some of my best friends low scores, and I've also given them high scores. That's why we can all remain friends. No one gets away with anything.

Bill, Waco Brother #1



Having said all that, how are the plans coming on your Waco? I'm sure there will be a market for them!

Joe


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RE: WACO YMF - 1/30/2013 10:49 PM   
WacoNut



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John, Bill, anyone

I need a refresher course on rib stitching for the Waco. If I remember correctly the rib stitch spacing is 2" inside the propwash and 3" outside the propwash. Is this correct? The 1st time I sticthed the Waco I used 2" for the entire plane but I am pretty sure it is supposed to be as I listed.

I have the rib stitching on hand for the 3" spacing and I am waiting on my order for the 2" scale spacing.
Later!!
Anthony

< Message edited by WacoNut -- 1/31/2013 12:04 AM >


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(in reply to Dash7ATP)
       Post #: 15972

RE: WACO YMF - 1/31/2013 3:31 AM   
rccrasher65


 

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     Chuck, Welcome, enjoy your build.   George

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       Post #: 15973

RE: WACO YMF - 1/31/2013 6:38 AM   
skylarkmk1



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Anthony,

Looking at picture # 3922 of the NC 14081 CD, it appears the stitching on the wings in the aileron area they used the 2" spacing (rib spacing on the ailerons being just under 2” (1-7/8”). It may also depend on your particular plane, the time period it was covered and its primary purpose (aerobatic, transport, racing). Waco Joe would be the one to ask, he owns a full size UPF and I believe is an inspector for the EAA. You may have to send him a PM or e-mail.


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(in reply to WacoNut)
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RE: WACO YMF - 1/31/2013 11:18 AM   
Stickbuilder



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Welcome back John, Haven't seen you in some time.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

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