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RE: WACO YMF - 1/6/2007 8:46 AM   
Hughes500E



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From: Armstrong, BC, CANADA
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RE: WACO YMF - 1/6/2007 12:48 PM   
old git


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: bart5495

John nice to hear from you. Thought you might like to know that my dad was a b24 pilot with 445th squadron 703 group. flew out of Tebengham field. Is that field close to you?
Doug
Waco Brotherhood #11


Hi Doug,

I didn't recognise Tebengham field at all so I googled it and found Tebenham airfield, (Jimmy (James) Stewart was CO and 445 Squadron flew Liberators (B24) from there. This field is in Norfolk County (UK not Virginia) and home to the Norfolk Gliding club. I've never been there but will next time we are in Norfolk

I thank your father for his efforts on our behalf. I saw the aerial fighting from both Croydon and Bristol as a child. My father was medically unfit for flying (despite his civil aviation experience) and wound up as an officer in the Royal Artillery, never left our shores.

I saw in RCU a comment that seems very accurate.
"If you can read this, thank a teacher!"
"If you can read it in English, thank a Veteran!"

old git - - - - - - aka John L.
Waco Brotherhood No 14.



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RE: WACO YMF - 1/6/2007 5:01 PM   
old git


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder




As to your masking situation, can you guys get 3-M Fine line tape over there? If you can, that is what I would use to outline the blisters, and purple masking tape for the rest of the cowl. The fine line is as flexible as electrician's tape would be if you could get it down to 1/8" wide. The purple tape will not allow the paint to be pulled off when removing the tape.Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1



I found fine line tape on eBay UK http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Jammy-Dog. He is a Brit seller and delivers quickly.
It cost me £4.00 (circa $8.00) plus post. For that I got four rolls of 25 Metre long @ 0.5mm, 1.0mm, 1.5mm and 2.0mm wide.

I was wondering what would be the best method to use the tape. Paint the area where I want the line with a De Vilbiss, mask over it and then spray the rest of the cowl?

I have used drafting tape for masking, it's low tack to avoid tearing the drawing paper.

I have used "pull out" masking tape to sold desecrate, sorry customise cars. The stuff is really easy to use, lay down the tape and tear out the middle, doesn't like to go around model sized curves.




pld git - - - - - -aka John L.

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/6/2007 5:13 PM   
Stickbuilder



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Status: offline 		I paint the entire cowl, then using the fine line tape (very flexible) mask off the rest of the cowl and the portion of the blisters that you wish to remain the base color, and lightly scuff (400 grit wet or dry) the area to be painted, and inspect to make sure you didn't move or cut into the fine line tape. If everything is intact, paint the trim color. Give the trim paint time to flash, and remove all the masking tape. Allow time for the trim paint to cure, and clean the entire cowl with wax and grease solvent (or isopropyl alcohol) I then add a contrasting pin stripe at the trim line with a dagger brush, and then mist a coat of clear on. Once the mist coat has cooked off, give the cowl a gloss coat of clear, and then wax to your heart's content.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/6/2007 10:54 PM   
flyguy888



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quote:

ORIGINAL: bart5495

Hey, are you guys really up at during the wee hours of the day to anwser these email's. What are your spouses and girlfriends doing. I'm having a quilt problem spending so much time in my aircraft assembly area.

Doug
Waco Brotherhood #11


Gee, am I glad you mentioned this. I don't believe I have checked in on my wife since July. I know she still loves me because everyday she leaves a plate of hot food on the floor just outside the workroom door and the towels in the shower get changed every week. You know, if your kids are moved out and you have electronic payroll deposit your wife can get by pretty well. Now quit whining and get back to work on that airplane.

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/6/2007 11:01 PM   
Hughes500E



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Status: offline 		I'm having a hard time coming up with a RESPECTABLE tail wheel assembly. The idea of relying on a set screw attached control arm is less than appealing in a hard to get at assembly. Other than making my own, with thought to using pull pull on the rudder, what have you come up with?

Pictures would be nice!
Thanx

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/7/2007 1:47 AM   
flyguy888



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Hughes500E

I'm having a hard time coming up with a RESPECTABLE tail wheel assembly. The idea of relying on a set screw attached control arm is less than appealing in a hard to get at assembly. Other than making my own, with thought to using pull pull on the rudder, what have you come up with?

Pictures would be nice!
Thanx



To help secure the set screw you can put a small dimple or flat in the steel shaft with a dremel tool grinding point. That will make a very solid and seat for the set screw and then shaft will not spin inside the collar. You can also use very small socket head screws instead of a set screw so you can really apply torque to the screw. I've done that before.

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/7/2007 1:48 AM   
Stickbuilder



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Status: offline 		I know that you directed your post to Ron, but I have some ideas on using a pull-pull to drive the tail wheel as well. Let me know if you are interested.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/7/2007 1:56 AM   
Jim Henley


 

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For what it is worth, I ground flat spots on the music wire I formed the strut out of and then applied small amount of loc-tite as well.


< Message edited by Jim Henley -- 1/7/2007 1:57 AM >

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/7/2007 2:46 AM   
Nerevar


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Hughes500E

I flew the 1/6th Waco with an Enya 60 4 stroke and it was excellent. If I were to build a 1/6th, you could be guaranteed a Saito 72 or 82 would be on the nose!

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

Yep, thought so. Saito offers the 60 twin for $549.99 which is an ABC engine with muffler. They offer the 90 twin for $599.99 which is the AAc engine (no muffler mentioned), and get this... the 100 twin is just $499.99 and this one is an ABC engine with muffler.

The max width on the 60 is 160mm. The length from mount to prop hub is 125 mm.

The max width on the 90 is 170mm. The length from mount to prop hub is 120 mm.

The max width on the 100 is 169mm. The length from mount to prop hub is 100 mm.

These numbers are directly from the Saito twin cylinder manual, and the prices are direct from Horizon's web site. You can download the manual by doing a Google search and typing in: Saito model airplane engines, and selecting the Horizon site, and specifying Saito engines. I just did it.

It looks as if the 100 twin would be perfect for the 60 size Pica Waco. The width is about 6 1/2"

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1



THANKS GUYS!!

One of those Saitos will more than likely be the power for my Waco.

If I'm measuring the inside diameter of the cowl correctly, I've got to keep it within 6 3/8" to stay inside it without cutting it up.

I'm going to Horizens site and check out the twins, and the 72 and 82.

Many Thanks!

NI
WACO Brotherhood #16

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/7/2007 2:57 AM   
Hughes500E



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I just can't use a set screw type setup. I'm going to construct my own using a maple block with 1/8th inch music wire. It will be spring loaded etc. I'm also going to run a 2-56 rod to drive it off the inboard hole of the large pull pull rudder servo arm.
Been working on it for awhile!

Thanx for the replies!

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/7/2007 3:43 AM   
Stickbuilder



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Hughes500E

Not directing anything at all, asking EVERYONE

I just can't use a set screw type setup. I'm going to construct my own using a maple block with 1/8th inch music wire. It will be spring loaded etc. I'm also going to run a 2-56 rod to drive it off the inboard hole of the large pull pull rudder servo arm.
Been working on it for awhile!

Thanx for the replies!


Do you have access to a mig welder, or do you have a friend who does? Make up a tiller bar from flat steel stock, drill your hole for your tail wheel strut, and your holes for the pushrod. use a new wire (one that you have not bent) and get the tiller bar welded to the strut wire. run the strut wire through your block of wood, then make the necessary bends to make it into a tail wheel strut. No worries ever, and no set screw either. I do it on my landing gear (wheel pants mount bars) and it works very well.

Bill, AMa 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Got my scale gas tank fillers made tonight, and I think you guys will like them. Got the scale navigation lights made as well. Now I just have to mount them. I'll post the method that I use to make the filler necks. (Helps to have auto technicians around from time to time ... they give me lots of good stuff)
B.

< Message edited by Stickbuilder -- 1/7/2007 3:44 AM >

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/7/2007 6:18 PM   
Stickbuilder



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Status: offline 		I took a few pics of the parts for the scale fuel pipes. They are made from discarded automobile valve stems (from the wheels). I simply removed the Schrader valves, and cut the threaded portion off (using the Dremel cut-off wheel) I then shortened the cap to appear more scale like, and It's done. I will mount them today. The Nav lights were made from a small piece of Brass tubing, with a Red and a green decorative pin head C/A'd in place. The light for the rudder post was made by repeatedly dipping a T-pin into epoxy, until the mass was of the desired size. I kept rotating the coated pin, until a teardrop shape was attained. I taped off the top part, and painted the bottom portion. Simple, cheap (I like that part) and effective.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Pics in the next post box.

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/7/2007 6:19 PM   
Stickbuilder



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Status: offline 		And here they are.

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/7/2007 6:29 PM   
Ricatic


 

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Status: offline 		Bill,

You are the man!!! You ability to come up with this detail stuff amazes me. Your willingness to share it is much appreciated.

Ricatic

Waco Brotherhood #17

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/7/2007 6:54 PM   
Stickbuilder



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Ricatic

Bill,

You are the man!!! You ability to come up with this detail stuff amazes me. Your willingness to share it is much appreciated.

Ricatic

Waco Brotherhood #17


That's why it's called a Brotherhood. We share, cause It's neat, It's cheap, and it works. (every time). Here's the stuff installed.

Bill, AMa 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/7/2007 7:26 PM   
Stickbuilder



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Status: offline 		And as I was saying earlier, If you want to get completely stupid with the scale junk, Here's the pull-pull setup for both rudder and elevator on The Corben Super Ace. If that is not enough, check out the articulated tailwheel drive. Both sides are mirror image just to balance things out. Never again. The Ailerons are pull-pull as well. Not fun.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/7/2007 11:20 PM   
Hughes500E



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Status: offline 		Fittings look good, linkage is quite complex , I like it!


Here's a picture of my tail wheel. Picture doesn't do it much justice but I really like it. I have about 1/2 an inch travel on the compression spring, it's a medium to heavy tension, and the Silver Solder took real nice, I used MPS Gas with Oxygen on one of the little BernZomatic cutting torches, worked better for this smaller job than an Acytelene Plumbers Torch!

Just making a doubler for the rear bulkhead, going with a more scale location and I'll mount it. The only problem now, the spring will be visible I guess after paint it up it won't be too bad.


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RE: WACO YMF - 1/8/2007 1:22 AM   
Hughes500E



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Status: offline 		A little more challenging than I thought

Had to adjust the height of the cut out in the bulkhead so the linkage would clear in all positions.
Spring doesn't show that much either !



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RE: WACO YMF - 1/8/2007 1:55 AM   
gwulle


 

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Status: offline 		Bill;
Would you go through how you hooked up the exaust extentions on your 160 twin and the parts used.

Gaines

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/8/2007 2:13 AM   
Stickbuilder



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Build a fairing around it. The full scale ones had the fairing. I really like the tailwheel. Glad you posted it.

Gaines,

I went to Lowe's or Home Depot (don't remember which) in the plumbing section, you should find a lavaratory supply pipe. They are available in increments up to about 24". The price is prohibitive...(about 6 bucks) They are chrome plated copper. They are bendable by hand. All you do is cut them to somewhere about the right length (leave them a tad long) and normally you will have to tap them onto the original exhaust pipes. The fit is very close. I used a dab of high temp RTV (red) for insurance. Then just bend them by hand, and do the final trim for length. That is all there is to it.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

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< Message edited by Stickbuilder -- 1/8/2007 2:16 AM >

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/8/2007 2:50 AM   
gwulle


 

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Status: offline 		Bill;
Thanks alot for the info. You are correct,it is simple. Good thing !!(LOL)

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/8/2007 4:14 AM   
chris1949


 

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Status: offline 		Hi guys just a thought I shoot archery and the aluminum arrows today are very large in diameter 25/64in diameter if you go to a local archery shop in your area ask for the cutoffs when they make arrows.Some are carbon fiber also and extremely strong,I use them for pushrods also,and wing dowels.They probably also have bent ones also try local sportsmans clubs most would save them for you thats where I get mine.Keep up the good work work guys isnt it fun but sometimes challanging thanx Chris

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/8/2007 4:20 AM   
old git


 

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Hi all you Waco Brotherhood men, still looking.

Thanks for all the great info', I've always been inclined to collect ideas, these are gratefully received.

I'm enjoying them too! also I'm trying to keep my mouth shut unless I have something useful to say.




old git - - - - - - -aka John L.

Waco Brotherhood No 14.

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RE: WACO YMF - 1/8/2007 4:28 AM   
Hughes500E



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From: Armstrong, BC, CANADA
Status: offline 		Bill:
Educate me, I have never seen a full scale with the fairing

http://www.airliners.net/search/photo.search?aircraft_genericsearch=Waco%20YMF&distinct_entry=true

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