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Score: 210 Joined: 9/25/2004 Last Login: 5/23/2013 From: Festus,
MO, USA Status: online
Jim,
If you can't find smaller bulbs or LEDs to make your light, how about making the tip light using fiber optics. The actual lights (bulb or LED) could be hidden in a box in the wing or fuse and the fiber optics of the correct diameter could route the light out to the tip light assembly and the end(s) could act as the "bulbs/strobes". I don't know how much light loss there would be, but the tip light could be made smaller. Just a suggestion, haven't tried it my self yet.
< Message edited by skylarkmk1 -- 10/30/2007 9:50 PM >
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John F Howard (aka skylarkmk1) AMA 10955, WACO Brotherhood #26, AWC, NWC
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Well Dan - Kudos on your efforts. I had to give up - as you know - as my chosen aluminum was a litttle too heavy. I'm happy with the plastic but I would have prefered the alu. if I could have made it work. Carry on!!
Hi guys, has anybody an idea, how to mount these tank plates on a ready covered wing? I think, it don´t works without cutting out the covering. But in this area are only ribs, and the covering is under tension. My plan is, cut out, so that the covering covers the upper side of the ribs. Than I will glue on the side of the rib narrow stripes of plywood, where I can screw the tank plates on? In the drawing: black are the ribs, blue the plywood stripes and red is the tank plate.
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IL, USA Status: offline
I have not seen any posts that talk about how you transport a 1/3d Genesis YMF to the field. I am looking at getting a new car, van or suv and would like suggestions that would carry this airplane.
I have a Jacob 275 in a Cessna 195 and love the sound of round engines. Thanks and I have enjoyed the thread.
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Score: 100 Joined: 7/19/2002 Last Login: 5/13/2013 From: Vestal,
NY, USA Status: offline
Jim:
I understand your transporting problem! I have a Toyota Camry, and the way I transport my Big Bingo is most of it is in the trunk. I built a small cradle that fits over the trunk lip I hold it in place with a small bumgee cord, I then strap the plane to the cradle. I put a ring into the trunk latch and use two bungees on either side to hjold the trunk lid down, with a stick in the middle to keep the trunk lid off of the plane. make sure to secure the stick to the cradle so it don't pop out and the lid comes down and damages the plane. Aniother alternative is I used to carry my 84" fleet on the roof of my car. The wigs of course shoould fit inside the car.
Posts: 1982
Score: 210 Joined: 9/25/2004 Last Login: 5/23/2013 From: Festus,
MO, USA Status: online
Bernie,
I forgot which YMF you are building, Pica, Pepino or Genisis. If it is the Pica with the vacuum formed tank cover, I would leave it off, it just does not look that good. Pepino and Genisis it is up to you. The pictures below are different views of three different Wacos, only one has tank covers.
P1 1987 YMF Classic (NC 14081) with hard tank covers P2 1932 UBF-2 (NC 12002) tanks are under the fabric with just the fill caps and vents poking thru. P3 Close up of the fill caps and vents on UBF-2 (NC 12002) P4 1940 QCF (NC 12484) with the same treatment, getting ready for paint.
< Message edited by skylarkmk1 -- 10/31/2007 4:09 AM >
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John F Howard (aka skylarkmk1) AMA 10955, WACO Brotherhood #26, AWC, NWC
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Score: 126 Joined: 7/3/2003 Last Login: 2/18/2011 From: newton,
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quote:
ORIGINAL: BigBoy99
Hi guys, has anybody an idea, how to mount these tank plates on a ready covered wing? I think, it don´t works without cutting out the covering. But in this area are only ribs, and the covering is under tension. My plan is, cut out, so that the covering covers the upper side of the ribs. Than I will glue on the side of the rib narrow stripes of plywood, where I can screw the tank plates on? In the drawing: black are the ribs, blue the plywood stripes and red is the tank plate.
Thanks Bernie
Bernie, I think it will work like you have it drawn out. The edges of the tank plate have to have some support, and the bracing you show,plus the ribs, will do that. The other thing is, if it's too much hassle, just leave those outboard tanks off. They were an option, and not standard equipment, so all the Supers don't have them. Of course, the one you are modeling does, so to be accurate, I suppose, you need to do them.
Bill, I think your engine looks fine, I like the engine case color. The thing about all the dummies I've seen is they all have relatively narrow cylinders and look too long and skinny, where the Jake's jugs seem shorter and fatter. This makes these dummies look sort of "starved" where the Jake is stocky looking. Don't know what we can do about it, unless we scratch-build the whole thing, or Wms. Bros starts making a scale Jacobs.
I know this isn't really definitive for the Waco, but this is what I've been working on instead of posting lately. On my Super Decathlon cowl, there was a round hole just below the prop shaft hole, and I learned it is for a landing light. Coincidently, the hole is the exact size of an 'AA' size Mini MagLite reflector, which I have cannibalized a few for the reflectors. I needed, however, a curved lens for it to look right, and found an old pair of safety glasses with curved, polycarbonate lenses. I traced the size I needed, and cut out a piece of the lens, and attached it to the reflector with a thin strip of aluminum HVAC tape, which looks like the bezel of the landing light bulb. Then I made a backplate so I could mount it from inside the cowl. I included the tiny bulb just so it would have something like a filament inside.
Jim (Supercubman), these tiny bulbs might be the ticket for your wingtip lights, they're about the same as a grain of rice, you could use a Sharpie to color them and place them in a small scale housing on the wingtip, Careful soldering to some 22-24 ga wire and the would work great, they're pretty bright.
I also made a functional door latch for the Super D, it's not exactly scale, but is much better than no door handle and having to unscrew the door whenever needing to get to the switches, which will all be inside the cockpit. It's spring-loaded, so it doesn't vibrate open in flight. The last pics are of the fuel fill, with and without the cowl.
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Club Saito #2, WACO Brotherhood #20. What other trouble can I get into?
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Gentlemen, I purchased a 60" Platt YMF aircraft framed up at a swap meet recently. I didn't get any plans or tail feathers with it, which is a bad combination. I would like to purchase, borrow or beg a set of plans from someone. I will be happy to pay someone to copy them for me, or will copy them myself and return your origionals promptly. I think this a really neat thread to help all of us who enjoy these aircraft. Thanks for any help you can furnish. John A. Pearce 260 4937860
PS I did get a set of instructions that I will be happy share if anyone needs them.
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Score: 126 Joined: 7/3/2003 Last Login: 2/18/2011 From: newton,
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quote:
ORIGINAL: skylarkmk1
Hey Ken,
The ring cowls were certainly more popular on the UPF-7s at the Fly In, but there was an example of each of the 2 other style cowls, a bump cowl and a larger smooth cowl. If the ring doesn't work you can always put the other styles on, but it does limit you color schemes.
John, I was planning to model my UPF after Waco Joe's plane, hence, the ring cowl. If it turns out to be un-doable, maybe I can talk Joe into putting a bump cowl on his plane.......problem solved
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Club Saito #2, WACO Brotherhood #20. What other trouble can I get into?
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John,
I don't have any plans for the 1/6 version, but someone in here will. You might be able to scale the parts from the web site that is set up for this forum. If you will check back a few pages you will find it. It should be available by going to: www.houseofmoy.com
I think that you can scale what you need from what is there.
Bill, AMA 4720 WACO Brotherhood #1
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Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.
Posts: 1982
Score: 210 Joined: 9/25/2004 Last Login: 5/23/2013 From: Festus,
MO, USA Status: online
John,
Go to House of Moy http://www.houseofmoy.com/waco/ , it is the supplimental site for here. It has both sizes of plans in PDF form. Download the files and take them to a place that can print from files (about $30-35 at Kinko's). There is enough info on the plans to build the stabilizer. The revised short manual (17 page) and the original long manual (45 page) are also there.
< Message edited by skylarkmk1 -- 10/31/2007 5:27 AM >
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John F Howard (aka skylarkmk1) AMA 10955, WACO Brotherhood #26, AWC, NWC
Posts: 1982
Score: 210 Joined: 9/25/2004 Last Login: 5/23/2013 From: Festus,
MO, USA Status: online
Ken,
I have noticed that the Ring Cowls are mounted on either one of the valve covers, some times on the intake, some times on the exhaust, both or alternating with the port side cylinders mounting on the exhaust and the starboard side mounted on the intake. I'll send you some photo's of Joe's plane and some others.
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jplaneman
John, I found my plans if you still need them there not in the best condition but are usable.
SuperCub man
Jim, I weighed my aileron it is 2.3 oz do you think that is ok? I hate to make three more if that's to heavy if so I will go your rout and use the plastic.
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Dan Hudson WACO Brotherhood #45 GIT-ER-DUN "Build a WACO"
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Score: 100 Joined: 6/8/2007 Last Login: 9/2/2012 From: Georgian Bluffs,
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quote:
ORIGINAL: mango12
Has anyone done any business with Bob Dively Models? I have been trying for over a week to order my dummy engine, with no response from his end. Scott
Have you tried http://buyaero.com/ I bought a bunch of Dively stuff from them a while back. They had trouble getting it from NJ where it came from originally. I heard at the LHS that they are not making the dummy radials anymore. Ed at buyareo should know. I have noticed a lot of places advertising products that the scratch/scale builders need that the retailer can no longer get. Why they don't delete the items, I don't know unless they are fishing for residual sales of other items. It's frustrating. I bought the Dively 10" 7 cylinder with back sides as well. It's only 22.5 % scale if wanting it for a Jacobs L-4.
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quote:
ORIGINAL: mrdhud SuperCub man Jim, I weighed my aileron it is 2.3 oz do you think that is ok? I hate to make three more if that's to heavy if so I will go your rout and use the plastic.
My alu aileron weighed about 2.5oz and I believe the "plastic" one weight 1.5oz. The weight difference wasn't much, being about 4 oz. on the total aircraft weight. What I meant was that the aluminum material I used was too heavy or thick (heavy gauge) and I could not get it to stick. After a day or so it lifted and was too hard for me to handle and bend. It was only .015" but after all the trouble and with the easy use of the plastic, I opted for the "easy". I gave the "corrugation machine" to a buddy and wished him luck! Pressing in the rivets was easier on the plastic as well. I now notice the first two ailerons on which I used the 3M Spray 77 are coming a bit loose but the other two sprayed with the 3M Super 90 are remaining in place. When putting the plastic aileron side by side with the alu, I think the plastic looks better as it is more even and the corrugations are consistent. No matter how hard I tried, I could not get the alu to stay flat and consistent. Some will say the real aircraft aileron is not smooth and consistent, but scale to scale the bumps and twists I had were much too big. However there are only 27 plastic corrugations whereas the scale version has 34 (although by actual count, the plane I'm modeling has 33!!) It's a judgement call!
< Message edited by SuperCub Man -- 10/31/2007 6:13 PM >
Posts: 616
Score: 105 Joined: 9/29/2002 Last Login: 5/21/2013 From: St. Catharines,
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What are your sources for Silver Solder? Do we need to go to 45% Silver content? What do you "Heavy Solderers" use? Our price up here is about $100.00 lb. and I'm not sure if it is the "right stuff" as all my knowledge has been gleaned through the Web. Any thots? I think a pound would last me a couple of life times!! I had some given to me a few years ago and it was a very stiff wire and flowed beautifully. The only other stuff I've found is 5% content and very soft. Don't think it will do. Thanks
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RE: WACO YMF - 
