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RE: WACO YMF - 12/2/2007 9:24 PM   
Stickbuilder



Posts: 8425
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Last Login: 5/24/2013
From: Wildwood, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Okay, Here is the roster to date.

WACO BROTHERHOOD MEMBERSHIP:

#1 stickbuilder
#2 Hughes500
#3 Jim Henley
#4 mmattockx
#5 CTflyboy
#6 michaelj2k
#7 Ronj10
#8 gwulle
#9 jim schroer
#10 Skinny Bob
#11 Bart5495
#12 Pimmnz
#13 HarryJ
No. 14 Old Git
#15 ChrisMH
#16 Nerevar
#17 Ricatic
#18 Clay H.
#19 Tripp2Loo
#20 KHodges
#21 Bill Hogue (WACO One)
#22 Mangolo (Waldo)
#23 av8ter
#24 yel914
#25 damifino
#26 skylarkmk1
#27 Jacque
#28 Edwin
#29 AROPLANE
#30 CubNut (Anthony)
#31 BQuartucy (Bob Q)
#32 AERORON
#33 funkymusic
#34 Live Wire (Larry)
#35 obo (Bob)
#36 Jackk36 (Jack)
#37 fatherrooster (Jim)
#38 Ilikebipes
#39 Kestrel0222
#40 CROWMAN17 (Marc)
#41 redcesar
#42 S. Christensen (Scott)
#43 Bill Deidrich
#44 Mike Barbee
#45 mrdhud (Dan Hudson)
#46 SoCalSal
#47 Todd (NightStalker)
#48 argon (Bob Gonzalez)
#49 mango 12 (Scott)
#50 skyjet 1
#51 ZIG
#52 Didg
#53 MarvinE255 (DOC)
#54 Joe Norris (Full Scale WACO Pilot)
#55 vasek
#56 SuperCub Man (Jim)
#57 Black Drape (Ron)
#58 aminiet (Angel Minet)
#59 Snowball
#60 doc zinger
#61 jagnweiner (Scott)
#62 Meesh (Bob)
#63 BigBoy99 (Bernie)
#64 stifts (Steve)
#65 RCWalker (Wallace)
#66 Mobyal
#67 lazyace
#68 bladerunner1955 (Don)
#69 trlambsr
#70 Big Bird (Ken)
#71 Tony V (Tony)
#72 red 1
#73 412t1 (Sean)
#74 Mr Lucky (Ben Warner)
#75 RICKSTUBBZ (Rick Stubblefield)
#76 ffdg (Fred)
#77 tomcraig
#78 Michou41a Michel
#79 Watzscale (Dick Watz)
#80 Devens
#81 msilvestro (Mark)
#82 Cheechukranch (Lewis)
#83 kruzin55 (Chris)
#84 lynchr (Ron)
#85 airplanegeek
#86 Mainer Jim

#100 nine o nine (Mitch Epstein)



WACO Sisterhood Roster:

S-1 Janelle (Lady Stickbuilder)
S-2 Sissy Nightstalker
S-3 Barb Barbee
S-4 LadyMango (Lynda)


Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1









< Message edited by Stickbuilder -- 12/19/2007 8:59 PM >

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/2/2007 9:27 PM   
Stickbuilder



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Status: offline 		Rick, that works for me. Here is mine (less the tail group which is framed and covered). The engine (G-26) is in, the adjustable H-stab is functional, and all pushrods/controls are set. Waiting for the Landing Gear to arrive. The stock set will go.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/2/2007 10:24 PM   
mango12


 

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From: duncanville, AL, USA
Status: offline 		1/4 scale Pepino YMF-5, 90 inch span, Saito 300 twin on ignition, photos posted a few pages back.
Scott


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Waco Brotherhood #49

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/2/2007 10:39 PM   
SuperCub Man



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From: St. Catharines, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Ken - Good Idea!! We don't have a Lowes here in Canada yet - but they're coming!! I will check at the local Home Improvement store and Home Depot. I think I have seen this stuff in one of them. And Bill, I do have stainless but it eats up too many drill bits - even with a commercial cutting liquid!! This is why I try to stay with aluminum in other than High Stress areas

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/3/2007 1:30 AM   
Stickbuilder



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Status: offline 		SCM,

I think that the aluminum may be the way to go. I didn't think about the short life of the bits. As I said earlier, I don't think that we will ever load the airframe enough to hurt it with these aluminum double shears. Unless you are going to ease from a Harrier through a Wall, and into a Waterfall.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/3/2007 2:24 AM   
lynchr


 

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Last Login: 11/26/2012
From: Chapmansboro, TN, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder


quote:

ORIGINAL: jagnweiner

Well, I think I may have found my solution for the exhaust extension. I picked up a Macs aluminum extension that just clamps on with a hose clamp. 8 bucks. There were 3 sizes; I went with the smallest 7/16" OD. Photos are attached. Of course I will trim the clamp and the extension to size. I know the muffler looks pretty ugly. I thought about cleaning it, but it will be behind a dummy engine hopefully.


A bit of advice (take it or leave it). When you add an exhaust extension, make sure that you baseline the engine before the extension is used. Use a tach, and set the engine for max RPM (without sagging) and then richen the needle so that you lose about 300 RPM at full throttle. Then add the extension, and recheck the engine RPM at the same needle setting. You may find that you lose more power than is acceptable. It is actually possible to gain power too, but I would not bet the farm on it. Make sure that you keep everything else as close as possible. If you can. do the baseline run, and then add the extension, and immediately run the engine for the test. This will keep the weather conditions as close as possible. Be sure not to change the prop either.

Not trying to rain on your parade by suggesting this, but for optium power, 4 stroke exhausts are designed for a certain length from the center line of the exhaust valve to the open end of the pipe. You may drastically change the engine output and not realize what has happened. It's kind of like joining an extra garden hose to the one that you are using. If you notice, you don't have as much water flow as before. All kinds of things come into play here, but harmonic change, pressure delta's and surface tensions are the big ones.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1


Hi Bill,

I have been lurking here for some time and have read all 190 pages at least twice. Built a Pica Waco back in the day, and took a hour ride in a big one in New Hampshire in early eighties. Pilot did mild aerobatics. What a thrill. Started scratch building when I was seven years old (over 50 years ago). Could you find a place for me in the Brotherhood?

I am curious about your comments on exhaust length as relates to the plane you built last year with the OS 160 twin. I see in the pictures you posted, and your comments, that you used 3/8" thin wall tubing from the hardware store to route exhaust out at bottom of cowl. How did that affect the performance? I ask because I couldn't resist the Cox ARF and had the OS 160 twin on the shelf.

Ron
AMA 82196

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Ron, AMA 82196
WACO Brotherhood #84

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/3/2007 3:06 AM   
khodges


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: RICKSTUBBZ


Ken (Khodges) I am not familuar with the "Stck-it" you use in covering with the coverite. If I am to look for it at LHS or on line is that the "commercial" name of the stuff?


Rick--The stuff is a brush-on, heat activated adhesive. It's made by Sig, and is called Stix-It. You can order it through Tower, or from Sig, and most LHS's worth a hoot carry it or can order it. Once you brush it on, it takes about 5 min or less to dry; you can pretty much start ironing the fabric down as soon as you've applied it (the adhesive) to the particular piece you're covering.

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Club Saito #2, WACO Brotherhood #20. What other trouble can I get into?

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/3/2007 3:21 AM   
skylarkmk1



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From: Festus, MO, USA
Status: offline 		Bill, SCM, Ken and all,

The aluminum angle that you are likely to find in a big box or hardware store in has been, in my experience, on the soft side. It may be a good idea to drill the hole just oversize and bush the holes with a piece of brass tube (flare both ends slightly) to minimize wear at those points where a bolt passes thru.

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John F Howard (aka skylarkmk1)
AMA 10955, WACO Brotherhood #26, AWC, NWC

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/3/2007 4:03 AM   
Stickbuilder



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Guys, Let's all welcome Ron (lynchr) to the Brotherhood. Ron we all hope that you have as much fun with it as we have.

Ron, the exhaust extensions didn't adversly affect the output of the FT 160 at all. In fact, they seemed to cure the little flat spot in the mid range. These engines are not muffled from the factory, but the firing pulses of the engine place the noise in a harmonic range that is actually pleasant to hear.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

< Message edited by Stickbuilder -- 12/3/2007 4:05 AM >

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/3/2007 4:07 AM   
Stickbuilder



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From: Wildwood, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Ken,

I'm actually thinking about using some 6061 T-6 extruded angle that I have access to. I think that the Rockwell hardness of that alloy is high enough to withstand the use. Any thoughts on that alloy?

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/3/2007 4:27 AM   
kruzin55



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From: Frankfort, IL, USA
Status: offline 		Bill

You might list my real name next to my screen name -- Kruzin55

Chris

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Chris V, AMA #866637
WACO Brotherhood #83

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/3/2007 5:09 AM   
Skinny Bob



Posts: 526
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Last Login: 3/3/2013
From: Auburn, KY, USA
Status: offline 		Bill and all the brothers, I have not been able to contribute much to this thread thus far. So I have been playing with the WACO logo and would like to offer my samples. I can send these to anyone who might want them via email or in a vector format via disk, CD etc. If anyone would like one please don't hesitate to ask.

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/3/2007 5:37 AM   
Stickbuilder



Posts: 8425
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From: Wildwood, FL, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: kruzin55

Bill

You might list my real name next to my screen name -- Kruzin55

Chris



Done. We didn't know your real name, because I don't think that you listed it in your request.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/3/2007 5:48 AM   
Stickbuilder



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quote:

ORIGINAL: RICKSTUBBZ

Other than Bill (Stickbuilder) who was building a 1/5 ____ using scale H-sab set-up? Tubing joining the right and left. Was it you Jay(Damifino)? Very interested in seeing how those hold up for you guys. I know Bill is doing the servo operated adjusted incidence and as I remember the use of ground adjustable incidence was being considered for other plane.

There are so many guys working on so many different versions of this plane in here. How do you guys feel about a "role call" (if you will) as to your particular version of the WACO and breif details as to where you are and outstanding mods you are doing??????

Ken (Khodges) I am not familuar with the "Stck-it" you use in covering with the coverite. If I am to look for it at LHS or on line is that the "commercial" name of the stuff?


Rick,

I did some serious (not scientific, but for real) testing on the tubing system before I built it into the model. It is not just tubing, but has an inteference fit stiffining unit inside the tubing. The inside tube fits into an outside tube in the Horizontal stab. The mounting plate is through bolted through a 1/4" ply plate. I used a scale, and did a pull test on a test piece (same parts, same length) and I maxed out the scale (30#) without even permanently deforming the piece. That was on one piece, and the Horizontal stab has two of them. The Balsa will fail long before the pivot and adjustment parts do. Add a functional flying wire setup on the Horizontal Stab, rudder and lower fuselage, and I think that I have an assembly that will outlast the rest of the airframe. I can promise you that I would not jeopardize anyone's safety with a model that I was not sure of.

Yours is a good question though. I think that I will have some expert's look at the system prior to flying it. We have several F.A.A. Inspectors here locally, and I'm sure that one of them would be happy to have a look. They all like R/C planes anyway. I think that this is a good idea. Thanks, Rick.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/3/2007 5:52 PM   
Tony V.


 

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From: Lafayette, IN, USA
Status: offline 		Skinny Bob,
My problem with the logos is when resizeing they get fuzzy. I am using Corel Paint shop pro. Any ideas to fix this ?

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WACO Brotherhood #71

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/3/2007 6:27 PM   
skylarkmk1



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From: Festus, MO, USA
Status: offline 		Tony,

If you are copying the logos off the RCU screen, yes they will get fuzzy if you try to enlarge them too much. When I put pictures on here, they have been reduced to less than 100 kb, while the full size file is about 2-3 mb. I can zoom in on just a small section of the large file to see some detail that I can't see on the small file. Have Bob send the full size files on a CD and you should not have any problems.

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/3/2007 6:45 PM   
red1


 

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From: Frederick, MD, USA
Status: offline 		Good Morning John,

FYI

I had an email reply from Col. Blaskovich, CAP. He says there is an A/C registration list for CAP Coastal Patrol aircraft. He will send it to me as soon as he gets home. As soon as I receive it I will share it with all.

Don

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/3/2007 7:20 PM   
skylarkmk1



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From: Festus, MO, USA
Status: offline 		Don,

Thanks, It will be interesting to see if our collective deductions of UMF-5 NC 14687 (picture #50 on the NWC site) are correct and that the logo/emblem on the side is for a CAP Coastal Patrol Plane.


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RE: WACO YMF - 12/3/2007 11:32 PM   
Skinny Bob



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From: Auburn, KY, USA
Status: offline 		Tony, do you have Corel Draw or any program that can read vector files? PM me your email and I can attach them in JPEG and .CDR if you have Draw. Let me know what vector type files you can use. Or if you like I can send them on a CD for you.

< Message edited by Skinny Bob -- 12/3/2007 11:34 PM >


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RE: WACO YMF - 12/3/2007 11:37 PM   
khodges


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: skylarkmk1

Bill, SCM, Ken and all,

The aluminum angle that you are likely to find in a big box or hardware store in has been, in my experience, on the soft side. It may be a good idea to drill the hole just oversize and bush the holes with a piece of brass tube (flare both ends slightly) to minimize wear at those points where a bolt passes thru.


So far, I've had good service from the pieces I've made from the extruded stuff. If the pieces will move relative to something, or serve as a pivot point, I agree with bushing the hole with brass. Long pieces may bend if they are flat, but the angles have a good bit of rigidity, up to about 6 inches.

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Club Saito #2, WACO Brotherhood #20. What other trouble can I get into?

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/4/2007 12:09 AM   
airplanegeek


 

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From: bird in hand, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Hi guys,

I like your top wing mounting ideas, stickbuilder. I would like to devise a way that would allow the top wing to break away in case of an accident though. Also it would be nice to not have any small hardware to deal with at the flying feild. i have broused the dubro catalog for ideas. I found rc car body clips. these may work nice but wouldnt be scale apperance and wouldnt break away in a crash.
I had an idea for the N struts - nylon ball ends. i would build a recepatcle in each wing to pop them on and pry them off durring dissasembly. I would like to use k&s tubing for the struts and would like to braze them. this would give a nice apperance. just some thougths . . . i would love to hear ideas and see pics of ways others have handeled mounting issues.

Thanks. I guess you should add me to the brotherhood list as well. I dont think there is a cure for my Waco illness.

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/4/2007 12:38 AM   
jagnweiner



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From: Geneseo, IL, USA
Status: offline 		airplanegeek-

Sounds like an interesting idea, but I would be VERY concerned that anything you could "pop" on and off during assembly would "pop off" during flight. Maybe I'm not understanding it well enough.


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RE: WACO YMF - 12/4/2007 1:22 AM   
Stickbuilder



Posts: 8425
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From: Wildwood, FL, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: airplanegeek

Hi guys,

I like your top wing mounting ideas, stickbuilder. I would like to devise a way that would allow the top wing to break away in case of an accident though. Also it would be nice to not have any small hardware to deal with at the flying feild. i have broused the dubro catalog for ideas. I found rc car body clips. these may work nice but wouldnt be scale apperance and wouldnt break away in a crash.
I had an idea for the N struts - nylon ball ends. i would build a recepatcle in each wing to pop them on and pry them off durring dissasembly. I would like to use k&s tubing for the struts and would like to braze them. this would give a nice apperance. just some thougths . . . i would love to hear ideas and see pics of ways others have handeled mounting issues.

Thanks. I guess you should add me to the brotherhood list as well. I dont think there is a cure for my Waco illness.

Of course, if it slugs the ground with enough force, both wings will break away. So will the engine, the tail, and all other assorted parts.

I really don't see how you would engineer the top wing to come off in a hard landing, and still maintain the integrity that is required for flying. Maybe someone else will have an idea, but I have none.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

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Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/4/2007 1:25 AM   
Stickbuilder



Posts: 8425
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From: Wildwood, FL, USA
Status: offline 		NEW BROTHER ALERT

We have a new Brother. Meet airplanegeek (I have not a clue as to his real name). Welcome, and I hope you enjoy it. You are Brother #85

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

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Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

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RE: WACO YMF - 12/4/2007 1:58 AM   
mango12


 

Posts: 273
Score: 100
Joined: 3/19/2007
Last Login: 5/16/2013
From: duncanville, AL, USA
Status: offline 		If I recall correctly, the GP Skybolt had a brass tube in the top wing running fore to aft, through the center section. It was notched out where the cabanes mounted to the underside of the wing. A small piece of piano wire was inserted through the leading edge of the wing thru the tube and the cabanes, holding the wing in place. Set up at the field was a simple matter. Not scale, but functional. I shaped the wire so it matched the leading edge of the wing and it was virtually invisible.
My only sugestion for making the top wing "break-away" would be to use nylon bolts to mount the cabanes, that way they would shear, without vibrating loose. But I would not reccomend it.
Scott


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Waco Brotherhood #49

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