r/c John

My Feedback: (2)

anyone interested in a 1/5th Waco should try out this site



http://www.rckitmasters.com/waco-ymf-3.php

Stickbuilder

Here's the stuff that you will need to build the dummy engine. Plus you will need some balsa sheet which I did not include in the photos, and also some lightweight spackle.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

r/c John,

The Richwood RC Kits Waco’s were first mentioned on page 291, post 7257. Patrick has joined the discussion and has updated his site with better “kit� descriptions and more photos. His kits use the 3 page pre-1990 Pica plans that have a bit more “additional� info (front cockpit cover, patterns for sheeting the fuse, etc.) that the 1990 Pica plans do not have. The 1990 plans have been updated to move the tail wheel to the scale location and are available from the AMA with all the parts templates.

We now have a couple of different ways to build a Pica YMF/UMF – buy an original kit, get the plans from the AMA, get one of the "kits" from Richwood and get the cowls and pants from a fiberglass supplier. And read this thread and follow the mods for strengthening the wing joints, scale tail wheel, shock absorbing main gear, installing a larger fuel tank, firewall mounting of your choice of engine, etc.

Jacque

My Feedback: (22)

Happy thanksgiving to all the Waco Brotherhood and there families

Jacque Waco brotherhood 27

Stickbuilder

Good morning and Happy Thanksgiving Day to all Brothers .

Last evening, I posted a photo of what you will need to build the dummy radial. This morning, let's get started.

1. Begin by venting the pressure from the aerosol can. Do not use a drill to do this, since not all aerosols use air, but use flammable gas as a propellant. I used a small nail, and punched a hole in the can, and allowed it to vent.

2. Next, I removed the pickup and neck adaptor from the can.

3. I then cut the can to the rough length that I wanted to use.

4. I then measured the circumferance of the can, and marked 7 equally spaced areas.

5. I then used a balsa stripper, and cut the strips that will become the cylinder bases.

6. I cut the cylinder bases to length, and tack glued them into position (keep the base perpendicular to the workbench when tack glueing them, otherwise, your cylinders will be tilted forward or backward).

7 Fill all voids with lightweight spackle, and set aside to dry. Go enjoy your turkey.

RCBOATMANIAC

Happy Thanksgiving to all.

bbogart

Hello All,
I have been messing around for too long and want to get going. I have not been very successful in finding a PICA kit, so I am going for the AMA plans. Just want to confirm that the correct plan number from AMA is #35406. Also I read in an earlier thread from Stickbuilder that there are templates avialable from AMA?

Has anyone received any feedback from the Richwood short kit?

I would also like to be considered for membership into the brotherhood.

Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving,
Bruce (You can call me Bogie)

kvlasblom

Happy Thanksgiving!

Stickbuilder

NEW BROTHER ALERT!!!

Bruce, Welcome to the Brotherhood. You are brother #124. Best of luck with the Waco build. The templates are available through the AMA plan service, but for some reason, you have to ask for them when ordering your plan set.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

Bruce,

Welcome aboard.

Yes, plans #35406 is correct and be sure to ask for the templates as Bill said. The House of Moy http://www.houseofmoy.com/waco/ is a supplimental site to this thread and has the manuals, older plans in PDF and a list of sources and documentation you may find helpfull. Cowls (both UMF with paired bumps and YMF with equally spaced bumps) and pants are available from AeroFiberTech Products (Stan’s Fiber Tech) http://www.aerofibertech.com/products.html or http://www.stansfibertech.com/

Good luck with the build.

Stickbuilder

I hope that y'all didn't founder on Turkey and Dressing yesterday.

By now the spackling compound should have cured, and you are ready to sand the crankcase to shape. I used a block sander and came up with this. It will be fairly smooth when you have finished. If you have some voids in the spackle, then refill the voids with spackle thinned with water, and smooth it out with your finger (spit works). Anyway, this is what you should have.

The next step is to cut out the cylinders from the Top Flight dummy. Do not destroy the Crankcase that came with your cylinders. There is a part that you will need to salvage.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

Now comes the fun part. After you have carefully cut the cylinders out, and made the bases flat (you don't know how I did this do you?). The best way to cut out the cylinders is to take a pair of shears and cut between the cylinders all the way down into the crankcase that came with the kit, and remove the cylinder with a good portion of the backing plastic. Then take the piece to your belt sander, and lightly sand the back of the cylinder until the casting slag is cut completely through. You have 2 spares, so If you butcher one, you still have enough. Glue the cylinders to the new crankcase that you have made.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

Okay, Remember I told you that there was a piece of the crankcase that you would need. Here it is installed. It is the Oil Gallery to the front main bearing. Cut it from the Top Flite crankcase and glue it in place. It goes between the two bottom cylinders, so place it carefully. Now finish sanding everything, and using a disc sander, sand off the rear of the dummy engine until the rear is just behind the cylinders. This will shorten up the engine, but you will be glad that you did this when you start trying to fit it in front of your active engine. Once you have it sanded as slick as you want, then add a coat of grey sandable primer.

Next we will do the painting of the engine, and add the details. That's when it gets to be impressive.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RCBOATMANIAC

Bill,

You are the replica engine god, I salute you! keep the pics a com'in that way I'll be able to build one for my 1/5 scale. Now if I was just able to do one for my 1/6 scale I'd be happy.

Stickbuilder

Okay, A little paint, a few pieces of tubing and some wire, and it looks real from a short distance. Give it a try. Here is a photo of the full scale next to the last one of these that I did.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

Just use the smaller spray can, and get the engine kit for the 1/6 scale from Top Flight.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Bill Diedrich

Bill, you would think for $50 you wouldn't have to ask for the
template sheets, they would be included. Or do they charge extra
for them also?

Bill D.

Stickbuilder

Bill,

As I understand it, when you ask for the templates, they include them. I don't know why they don't automatically send them with the plan set. That was supposed to be the deal when we gave the templates to the AMA. The plans are bone useless without the templates, unless you just like to have them hanging on the wall.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

WacoNut

Bill that engine looks good now make me one with a 13" dia
I may try to make a single cylinder and then pull a mold from it. The fins on the cylinder wouldn't be an issue but they get pretty deep on the heads.
Anthony

Stickbuilder

Anthony,

That is the biggest issue with making one of these dummy engines. The parts that are canibalized from the Top Flite engine kit are vacuum formed, and there is not a lot of detail. Frank Tiano sells a 9 cylinder engine (resin cast) that has good detail, and you might be able to get the cylinders that you need from that one. They make them in several sizes, and I think that he does have one that is about 12.5" in diameter. You could build one like I just did by using a large spinner to make the crankcase, and going from there. I, personally can't wait for Williams Brothers to come out with their 7 cylinder dummy engine. When that happens, the ones that I have built will be gone with the wind. On the plus side, if yours will be a competition model, it will be judged from 15' . We can, and do move closer to the model for clarification, but by that time, the engine will be noted to be in place, and there is no extra points added for the depth of the cooling fins. It's sort of like the pilot. At Top Gun, the model must have a pilot in place for flying, but not for static judging. He can't be in the plane all the time. He'd either starve to death, or would embarass himself occasionally.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

WacoNut

I will look at Franks site,
I have decided not to go for a full blown comp. model for several reasons the biggest one being I want to finish the plane some time in this decade but seriously I just want to build the plane to suit me not some grumpy Top Gun line judge. I don't want to take the fun out of it for me by putting the added pressure on the build. I will be putting tons of detail into this plane and I expect to take it to another level beyond my Pepino Waco and I will will make things as scale as I can without making major modifications and second mortgage on my home.
I am adding tip and landing lights,smoke and fully detailed cockpits. I still need to figure out if the structure will allow an open front cockpit, if so it will be added. The AMR kit comes with a complete fiberglass package that includes front fuse panels and wing and tail fairings. I will be faithful to the original paint scheme I have chosen for this plane as well.
Later!!
Anthony

Stickbuilder

Hmmmmmmmm[sm=72_72.gif]

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Actually, you build them to suit your documentation, not some, "Grumpy Top Gun Judge." If you follow your documentation, then you get all the points. If you deviate, you don't. Grumpy or not

aminiet

Dear GRUMPY old top gun judge.

You have answered most of my questions without having to ask, your dummy engine build looks good and I will be using some of your technique when doing mine.
I have never been to a top gun show and probably never will, I get the impression from your post #7464 that when it comes to having an engine in the model it does not matter if it is a 7 cyl. engine or a 9 cyl. engine as long as there is an engine in there.
Is that correct?
I see that you are also interested in the Williams Brothers 7 cylinder engines, I encourage you and all of my WACO BROTHERHOOD friends to phone Mr Brett and ask for one, remember, the squeaky wheel always gets the grease.

Angel
B 58

ffdq

My Feedback: (4)

hey guys,


I need some help with mufflers for g-26 for my waco.What are you guys using for it.I have the stock muffler but would like to get more power out of it.I put a aftermarket muffler on my other g-26 thats on my super stearman ang works great.My waco should be done by xmas,I hope.
thanks brother#76 Fred

lazyace

My Feedback: (126)

fred;

I'm useing one from B & B , g-26 has plenty of power and you do not have to cut up the cowl exept for the stacks ,www bennettbuilt.com