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RE: WACO YMF - 7/18/2012 3:16 PM   
Dash7ATP



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ORIGINAL: WacoNut

Joe,
I use latex alot on my planes. I use semi-gloss and spray gloss polycrylic is a clear coat.
Here are a couple pics of my Waco painted with latex and my Ercoupe.
Later!!
Anthony


I like your WACO.  It's a different scheme from the typical WACO.

Is the gloss polycrylic fuel proof?  I'll be using a glow engine.  How about the trade name? 

Thanks.

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RE: WACO YMF - 7/18/2012 8:09 PM   
jn4dflyer


 

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Status: offline 		Polycrylic is gas proof but not glow proof.  My test piece shows a little bit of alcohol and some rubbing has it peeling up.  The product is made by Minnwax and can be purchased at most hardware and home stores.  The biggest use I have seen of this product is to seal the koverall fabric instead of using nitrate dope.  It is water based and so no harsh fumes.  Maybe someone out there has had different results using it on alcohol fuel but I would not.  I would stick to a Urethane clear coat or possibly epoxy which can be put over just about any paint if the paint is dry and the clear is sprayed not brushed.  Be aware most latex paint takes a very long time to fully dry.   I personally have not used epoxy in a long time.  You can also build it like the real one with about 17 coats of dope hand sanded between each coat, for the purist.

Larry
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RE: WACO YMF - 7/18/2012 8:38 PM   
Dash7ATP



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ORIGINAL: jn4dflyer

  You can also build it like the real one with about 17 coats of dope hand sanded between each coat, for the purist.

Larry
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Thanks, Larry. This is the type of information I was looking for and it's good to get this info on the forum for others as well.  As of right now, I'm still looking at Koverall with several coats of Nitrate dope. After that, I'm still up in the air. I'm considering KIasKoat epoxy primer and their colored epoxies. That may add too much weight, so I'm still undecided on that.

I really like your last comment!  There was a brand new WACO at a local fly-in back in May.  It had  a non-typical paint scheme as seen below. I don't know how it was finished, but it had so much paint on it you could barely see the rib tapes. The gloss was as good as I have ever seen on a fabric airplane! 

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RE: WACO YMF - 7/18/2012 10:07 PM   
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Status: offline 		Waconut................awesome Waco. Now, who makes the polycrylic ? When i used clear sealers (auto) after a while the painted surfaces becomes slightly sticky, especially the wheel pants.
I would like to know the kind of clear sealers you guys use. Thanks.

Charles.


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RE: WACO YMF - 7/18/2012 11:38 PM   
WacoNut



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Status: offline 		Polycrylic holds up well to gas but not glow. The Ercoupe is a glow plane and it is cleared with Nelson's Hobby Specialties clear. Not sure if it is still available or not. The Ercoupe finish is holding up very well. I would check with Nelson's and see if it is still available.

Polycrylic is a product from Minwax. It is available in quarts or in spray cans. It is also available in satin, semi-gloss and gloss.

The Waco is now a wreck in need of a total rebuild. The rebuild will start in a few weeks and I will be lucky to have it flight ready next spring.
Later!!
Anthony

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RE: WACO YMF - 7/19/2012 11:59 AM   
Garthwood


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: WacoNut

Polycrylic holds up well to gas but not glow. The Ercoupe is a glow plane and it is cleared with Nelson's Hobby Specialties clear. Not sure if it is still available or not. The Ercoupe finish is holding up very well. I would check with Nelson's and see if it is still available.

Polycrylic is a product from Minwax. It is available in quarts or in spray cans. It is also available in satin, semi-gloss and gloss.

The Waco is now a wreck in need of a total rebuild. The rebuild will start in a few weeks and I will be lucky to have it flight ready next spring.
Later!!
Anthony

Thanks for the info. Good luck with your Waco rebuild. I'm using glow fuel so the polycrylic will not work. I have tried Auto clear coats and it seems it helps but not 100%. The curing is quite long and dope is not an option because of its fumes. Brushed epoxy will work though.


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RE: WACO YMF - 7/19/2012 8:58 PM   
jn4dflyer


 

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Status: offline 		Nelson hobby paint is still available it is a very tough acrylic urethane (water based) paint.  A lot of people have used it on competition aircraft and have been very satisfied.  Alot of colors available as well as clear.  No odor and dries to glow fuel proof.  I know several people who claim to have applied it with foam brushes and it will appear to be sprayed.  The company was sold by the original owner Jerry Nelson due to health.  I believe John Deselet now owns it and moved it from Texas to Oregon.  The site is still  www.nelsonhobby.com  check it out great products although not as many as when Jerry had the company.

Larry
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RE: WACO YMF - 7/19/2012 11:58 PM   
Garthwood


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: jn4dflyer

Nelson hobby paint is still available it is a very tough acrylic urethane (water based) paint.  A lot of people have used it on competition aircraft and have been very satisfied.  Alot of colors available as well as clear.  No odor and dries to glow fuel proof.  I know several people who claim to have applied it with foam brushes and it will appear to be sprayed.  The company was sold by the original owner Jerry Nelson due to health.  I believe John Deselet now owns it and moved it from Texas to Oregon.  The site is still  www.nelsonhobby.com  check it out great products although not as many as when Jerry had the company.

Larry
WB 183


LARRY.............thanks. I'll check them out. Sounds great.

Charles/WB #87


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RE: WACO YMF - 7/21/2012 7:16 PM   
ceije


 

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at one time i had contacted Waco Classic concerning paint codes for colors and Peter responded with codes that related to Dupont Imron paint which is a automotive poliurthane coating. there are various grades of this finish ranging from very very expensive to reasonable which will work well for our intent and purpose. check your local auto paint distributors they either stock it or can obtain it. the color codes for the aircraft i'm using for my base were provided by Waco.

regards,
Chris Melhus, ceije #196

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RE: WACO YMF - 7/22/2012 11:39 AM   
Garthwood


 

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Status: offline 		Chris....Thanks for the info.


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RE: WACO YMF - 7/22/2012 3:11 PM   
LesUyeda



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Status: offline 		Just to be picky (and if anyone wants to look up more information":-))))))))))))))))

Polyeurethane.

Les

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RE: WACO YMF - 7/22/2012 3:47 PM   
skylarkmk1



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Status: offline 		I was/am under the impression that the Imron (polyeurethane) paints require special equipment to use such as Forced filtered air mask/hood/Suit and such because it is very toxic to the human body. The following is from the Poly-Fiber website (http://www.polyfiber.com/products/ranthane.htm)

WARNING: AS WITH ALL CATALYZED POLYURETHANES, A FRESH-AIR SUPPLIED SPRAY MASK IS MANDATORY. CHARCOAL MASKS WILL NOT PROTECT FROM POLYISOCYNATES IN THE SPRAY MIST!

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RE: WACO YMF - 7/22/2012 10:57 PM   
Dash7ATP



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quote:

ORIGINAL: skylarkmk1

I was/am under the impression that the Imron (polyeurethane) paints require special equipment to use such as Forced filtered air mask/hood/Suit and such because it is very toxic to the human body. The following is from the Poly-Fiber website (http://www.polyfiber.com/products/ranthane.htm)

WARNING: AS WITH ALL CATALYZED POLYURETHANES, A FRESH-AIR SUPPLIED SPRAY MASK IS MANDATORY. CHARCOAL MASKS WILL NOT PROTECT FROM POLYISOCYNATES IN THE SPRAY MIST!


About thirty years ago, I made the mistake of painting a repair job with Imron inside a small shed, as I lived in an Apt. and couldn't do it inside. After I finished, I thought I would die! I had a very tight chest, and felt like I had a severe chest cold for almost a week. I'm probably lucky to still be alive!  I have used Imron since, but I took some precautions. I set up a positive airflow in my shop with a 24"  exhaust fan in the window. I cracked the door to the shop to allow air to come in only, and I sprayed infront of the fan. I never smelled the paint and had no after effects at all..

Joe


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RE: WACO YMF - 7/22/2012 11:16 PM   
Dash7ATP



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Status: offline 		On another topic, I have a few questions for the Brotherhood. 

I added the cockpit sides to my model the other night and wanted to see how it looked with the windshield in place.  For some reason it didn't look right, so I did some checking.  On the scale drawings I got with my kit, the cockpit opening measured 24 inches wide at the widest part. The scaled width of the opening of my model was 30 1/2 inches (about 1 1/8" oversize). Has anyone else noticed this? 

Another small detail concerns the headrest and the baggage compartment opening. Obviously, the headrest was not attached to the fabric. Also, as designed the baggage door extends to the center stringer.  I"m looking to run a secondary stringer where the edges of the headrest would attach and from which the baggage door would hinge.  Any comments on this?

One more question. I was planning to use the Du-Bro 1/4 turn latches to attach my cowl but couldn't locate any. They are part number 242 on the only package I have left.  Has anyone else used these on this cowl?  They are really neat, hold well, and have only a 1/8 inch dia flush screw on the surface.  If you have any you would be willing to part with, let me know.

Thanks.

Joe

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RE: WACO YMF - 7/23/2012 2:05 AM   
skylarkmk1



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Status: offline 		Joe,

I do not have the dimensions of the cockpit. You are correct the headrest/turtle deck does screw into the second stringer from the top from the outside (P-2). The top edge of the hatch (the hinge) also screws into the stinger from the inside of the hatch (P-1). The turtle deck is a rolled piece of sheet aluminum with flanges for the screws.




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RE: WACO YMF - 7/23/2012 4:14 AM   
Dash7ATP



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ORIGINAL: skylarkmk1

Joe,

I do not have the dimensions of the cockpit. You are correct the headrest/turtle deck does screw into the second stringer from the top from the outside (P-2). The top edge of the hatch (the hinge) also screws into the stinger from the inside of the hatch (P-1). The turtle deck is a rolled piece of sheet aluminum with flanges for the screws.



I knew about the headrest being aluminum and screwed to the top. Only problem in my case - the blank that was in my kit was way too narrow to even get close to the next stringer. When I check the demensions on that compared to the three views it is too narrow. I'll make it work, or at least look good. I'm past the point of be too nit-picky scale wise. 

Joe

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RE: WACO YMF - 7/23/2012 7:06 PM   
Stickbuilder



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Status: offline 		Pica did not make the stringers scale either in size or in placement. In fact, the count is even wrong. I suppose that's why they did the head rest and the wing tips out of those giant blocks of balsa. I added some structure in order to make the baggage compartment hatch come out right on all of mine. If they had used scale parts for the stringers, the fuselage would have been very fragile. Just make it look right and you'll be okay.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

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RE: WACO YMF - 7/23/2012 7:33 PM   
Dash7ATP



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ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

I added some structure in order to make the baggage compartment hatch come out right on all of mine. If they had used scale parts for the stringers, the fuselage would have been very fragile. Just make it look right and you'll be okay.

Bill, Waco Brother #1


Bill,

That's where I'm headed now. It shouild look good to thoses who are not WACO nuts like we are, but I'll know it's not scale. Any comments on the rear cockpit opening width? 

Thanks for your comments.

Joe

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RE: WACO YMF - 7/23/2012 9:14 PM   
Stickbuilder



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Status: offline 		You can cut the cockpit opening to any size you want. I made mine a little smaller to look better. Mine terminates just at the windscreen. Pilots come in different sizes, and often a set of tin snips or aircraft shears were used to customize the size of the opening. My Dad and Grandfather were both little dust blowers, and the family Waco had a small opening. I've seen some that accomodate those of us who tip the scales at over 200 lbs.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

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RE: WACO YMF - 7/23/2012 10:40 PM   
Dash7ATP



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You can cut the cockpit opening to any size you want. I made mine a little smaller to look better. Mine terminates just at the windscreen. Pilots come in different sizes, and often a set of tin snips or aircraft shears were used to customize the size of the opening. My Dad and Grandfather were both little dust blowers, and the family Waco had a small opening. I've seen some that accomodate those of us who tip the scales at over 200 lbs.

Bill, Waco Brother #1


I had already glued the two pieces in the kit in place when I noticed it just didn't look right. Time to start re-working that. UGH!  Bummer! guess I'll have to laminate some to get the right thickness.

Joe




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RE: WACO YMF - 7/24/2012 1:07 AM   
iflytailies


 

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Status: offline 		The 1/4 scale WACO instrument panel kit is available now.

This kit includes the basic instrument panel WITH the wooden center panel (see also second picture), a set of instruments, control elements, decals, drawings of the panel, and detailed instructions.
Total width: 27cm / 10.6"
Total height: 11cm / 4.3"

Instruments come assembled. Panel comes painted and pre-cut and has been prepared for instruments. You only need to paint switches and glue instruments to the panel.

1/3 scale version will come out next month.

The set is also available without the panel if you want to cut your own panel.

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RE: WACO YMF - 7/24/2012 1:16 PM   
mrdhud



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Status: offline 		Hello all,
Well, after talking to Robert and a few others I’ve decided to change from pins to magnets. I had a piece of galvanized metal cut for my work bench with about 150 magnets. It takes a little getting uses to but I think I will like it much better then using pins. Now I need a new project to test it out so I’ve decided to start on a ¼ scale Waco. I had a set of pica planes blown up from AMA some time back and now seems to be a good time to start building. I’ve read Anthony’s build thread on his ¼ scale pepino and talk to Chris about his Barth and have some ideas on a few changes. I’d like to hear your thoughts on this project.

Bill, how’s your shop coming along?


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RE: WACO YMF - 7/25/2012 2:31 AM   
rccrasher65


 

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Status: offline 		Joe, go to www.dubro.com. you will find them on page 31, or what they have thats as close to the old ones as you can get. George

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RE: WACO YMF - 7/25/2012 3:04 AM   
Dash7ATP



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ORIGINAL: rccrasher65

Joe, go to www.dubro.com. you will find them on page 31, or what they have thats as close to the old ones as you can get. George


Thanks for checking on that, George. That is not even close to what I'm looking for.  The latch I want aparently has been discontinued.  When properly installed, all you see is a small flush 1/8 inch diameter circle with a slot for the screwdriver. You would hardly notice it.

Joe

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RE: WACO YMF - 7/25/2012 12:03 PM   
Cricklewood


 

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Status: offline 		Dan,

I started building with a magnetic system a few years ago and much prefer it over pins.


Do you have some magnets with the metal side plates? They hold a lot better that the magnets by themselves. You might also find that you will want/need more than 150 magnets. I bought 200 and find on occassion that I wish I had more. If you haven't found it already this is a great site for building with magnetics, http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/how_to_articles_for_model_builders/tools/magnetic_building_board/index.htm.

Happy building,

Chris
WB#133

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