WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder
I added some structure in order to make the baggage compartment hatch come out right on all of mine. If they had used scale parts for the stringers, the fuselage would have been very fragile. Just make it look right and you'll be okay.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
I added some structure in order to make the baggage compartment hatch come out right on all of mine. If they had used scale parts for the stringers, the fuselage would have been very fragile. Just make it look right and you'll be okay.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
That's where I'm headed now. It shouild look good to thoses who are not WACOnuts like we are, but I'll know it's not scale. Any comments on the rear cockpit opening width?
Thanks for your comments.
Joe
Thread Starter

You can cut the cockpit opening to any size you want. I made mine a little smaller to look better. Mine terminates just at the windscreen. Pilots come in different sizes, and often a set of tin snips or aircraft shears were used to customize the size of the opening. My Dad and Grandfather were both little dust blowers, and the family Waco had a small opening. I've seen some that accomodate those of us who tip the scales at over 200 lbs.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
Bill, Waco Brother #1
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder
You can cut the cockpit opening to any size you want. I made mine a little smaller to look better. Mine terminates just at the windscreen. Pilots come in different sizes, and often a set of tin snips or aircraft shears were used to customize the size of the opening. My Dad and Grandfather were both little dust blowers, and the family Waco had a small opening. I've seen some that accomodate those of us who tip the scales at over 200 lbs.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
You can cut the cockpit opening to any size you want. I made mine a little smaller to look better. Mine terminates just at the windscreen. Pilots come in different sizes, and often a set of tin snips or aircraft shears were used to customize the size of the opening. My Dad and Grandfather were both little dust blowers, and the family Waco had a small opening. I've seen some that accomodate those of us who tip the scales at over 200 lbs.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
Joe

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From: Lancaster, PA
The [link=http://www.iflytailies.com/store/instruments/1-4-scale-civilian/]1/4 scale WACO instrument panel kit[/link] is available now.
This kit includes the basic instrument panel WITH the wooden center panel (see also second picture), a set of instruments, control elements, decals, drawings of the panel, and detailed instructions.
Total width: 27cm / 10.6"
Total height: 11cm / 4.3"
Instruments come assembled. Panel comes painted and pre-cut and has been prepared for instruments. You only need to paint switches and glue instruments to the panel.
1/3 scale version will come out next month.
The set is also available without the panel if you want to cut your own panel.
This kit includes the basic instrument panel WITH the wooden center panel (see also second picture), a set of instruments, control elements, decals, drawings of the panel, and detailed instructions.
Total width: 27cm / 10.6"
Total height: 11cm / 4.3"
Instruments come assembled. Panel comes painted and pre-cut and has been prepared for instruments. You only need to paint switches and glue instruments to the panel.
1/3 scale version will come out next month.
The set is also available without the panel if you want to cut your own panel.

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Hello all,
Well, after talking to Robert and a few others I’ve decided to change from pins to magnets. I had a piece of galvanized metal cut for my work bench with about 150 magnets. It takes a little getting uses to but I think I will like it much better then using pins. Now I need a new project to test it out so I’ve decided to start on a ¼ scale Waco. I had a set of pica planes blown up from AMA some time back and now seems to be a good time to start building. I’ve read Anthony’s build thread on his ¼ scale pepino and talk to Chris about his Barth and have some ideas on a few changes. I’d like to hear your thoughts on this project.
Bill, how’s your shop coming along?
Well, after talking to Robert and a few others I’ve decided to change from pins to magnets. I had a piece of galvanized metal cut for my work bench with about 150 magnets. It takes a little getting uses to but I think I will like it much better then using pins. Now I need a new project to test it out so I’ve decided to start on a ¼ scale Waco. I had a set of pica planes blown up from AMA some time back and now seems to be a good time to start building. I’ve read Anthony’s build thread on his ¼ scale pepino and talk to Chris about his Barth and have some ideas on a few changes. I’d like to hear your thoughts on this project.
Bill, how’s your shop coming along?

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From: , PA
Joe, go to www.dubro.com. you will find them on page 31, or what they have thats as close to the old ones as you can get. George
ORIGINAL: rccrasher65
Joe, go to www.dubro.com. you will find them on page 31, or what they have thats as close to the old ones as you can get. George
Joe, go to www.dubro.com. you will find them on page 31, or what they have thats as close to the old ones as you can get. George
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From: Guelph, ON, CANADA
Dan,
I started building with a magnetic system a few years ago and much prefer it over pins.
Do you have some magnets with the metal side plates? They hold a lot better that the magnets by themselves. You might also find that you will want/need more than 150 magnets. I bought 200 and find on occassion that I wish I had more. If you haven't found it already this is a great site for building with magnetics, http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...oard/index.htm.
Happy building,
Chris
WB#133
I started building with a magnetic system a few years ago and much prefer it over pins.
Do you have some magnets with the metal side plates? They hold a lot better that the magnets by themselves. You might also find that you will want/need more than 150 magnets. I bought 200 and find on occassion that I wish I had more. If you haven't found it already this is a great site for building with magnetics, http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...oard/index.htm.
Happy building,
Chris
WB#133

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ORIGINAL: Cricklewood
Dan,
I started building with a magnetic system a few years ago and much prefer it over pins.
Do you have some magnets with the metal side plates? They hold a lot better that the magnets by themselves. You might also find that you will want/need more than 150 magnets. I bought 200 and find on occassion that I wish I had more. If you haven't found it already this is a great site for building with magnetics, http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...oard/index.htm.
Happy building,
Chris
WB#133
Dan,
I started building with a magnetic system a few years ago and much prefer it over pins.
Do you have some magnets with the metal side plates? They hold a lot better that the magnets by themselves. You might also find that you will want/need more than 150 magnets. I bought 200 and find on occassion that I wish I had more. If you haven't found it already this is a great site for building with magnetics, http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...oard/index.htm.
Happy building,
Chris
WB#133
Yes all the magnets have the metal sides on them they hold more then I thought. You may be right about having more then 150 I will start my new build with the wings and see how it go’s.
I have recently inquired about the availability of the DuBro quarter turn latch, as well as some questions on the size of our cockpit openings. I thought it time to bring the Brotherhood up to date on the progress of my build. Below is a photo of the rear of the cowl on my Yellow Aircraft P-47 showing the small latch. As you can see, it is quite small and neat. It's pretty secure for it's small size.
As for my cockpit, Idecided to take off the top over the cockpit and replace it with a much smaller and hopefully, scale opening. Before it took the sheeting off, Imade a laminated anf formed replacement. Since Ihad no 5/32 sheet balsa I laminated it from 3/32 and 1/16" soft balsa. Icovered the fuselage with plastic film so Iwouldn't glue my work to the fuselage. Iglued up the required lengths of 3/32 and 1/16 sheets and then soaked them in water. Iapplied a carpenters wood glue to the inside surfaces, stuck the two sheets together and taped them down over the cockpit area. I am very happy with how they came out, and the thickness was right on. Fitting it in place was no problem. I"m glad Ihad to do this, as it will make putting in the instrument panel, seat, sidewalls, etc., much easier. I'm not going for a full depth cockpit, due to radio space requirements.
From checking on my three views, and looking at photos of full scaleWACOs, I think Iwill also re-do the windshield as what is proivided does not match the drawing at all. It's too narrow and too short lengthwise. Ithink I'll check on using a piece of gutter flashing for the frame.
I'm using a homemade control horn for the elevators with internal flex cable for control. The horn was braized on for security. Rudder will be pull-pull.
As for my cockpit, Idecided to take off the top over the cockpit and replace it with a much smaller and hopefully, scale opening. Before it took the sheeting off, Imade a laminated anf formed replacement. Since Ihad no 5/32 sheet balsa I laminated it from 3/32 and 1/16" soft balsa. Icovered the fuselage with plastic film so Iwouldn't glue my work to the fuselage. Iglued up the required lengths of 3/32 and 1/16 sheets and then soaked them in water. Iapplied a carpenters wood glue to the inside surfaces, stuck the two sheets together and taped them down over the cockpit area. I am very happy with how they came out, and the thickness was right on. Fitting it in place was no problem. I"m glad Ihad to do this, as it will make putting in the instrument panel, seat, sidewalls, etc., much easier. I'm not going for a full depth cockpit, due to radio space requirements.
From checking on my three views, and looking at photos of full scaleWACOs, I think Iwill also re-do the windshield as what is proivided does not match the drawing at all. It's too narrow and too short lengthwise. Ithink I'll check on using a piece of gutter flashing for the frame.
I'm using a homemade control horn for the elevators with internal flex cable for control. The horn was braized on for security. Rudder will be pull-pull.
ORIGINAL: mrdhud
Joe,
You’re making good progress on your Waco. Looking good!
Joe,
You’re making good progress on your Waco. Looking good!
Your sample arrived today. YOu're right, I do like it. I wish it had arrived a week or three sooner. It appears that it will not require any dope? That is a time saver, not to mention $$$$. Ialready have a package of the koverall, as well as theBalsarite and a quart of nitrate dope. I just applied a coat of Balsarite to the edges of my stab, rudder, and vert. fin. If my wife smells it when she gets home (I opened the garage door after I was finished to clear out the fumes) I may STILL have to go your route. I'll let you know.......
? would you still use a primer over the silver? I'm thinking KlasKote.
Thakns,
Joe
Thread Starter

I made my hatch latches from brass and music wire. If you look back tou can find it and the brass striker plate. It is quarter turn and very secure.
Bill, Waco Brother #1
Bill, Waco Brother #1
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder
Is everyone starting to get tired of this thread?
Bill, Waco Brother #1
Is everyone starting to get tired of this thread?
Bill, Waco Brother #1
Ihaven't been able to find the one you did on your hatch latch. I'll be ready to hinge mine soon, so it would be a great help to see how you did yours..
Tired of this thread? NOWAY!
Joe
Don't forget it is summer time, people have other things going on, kids home from school, family trips, BBQ, float trips and lots of other stuff happening. Yes it is flying season and we are getting reports of some maiden flights and such but most can only fly on weekends due to their jobs. It will pick up during the build season when things settle down again.

ORIGINAL: skylarkmk1
Don't forget it is summer time, people have other things going on, kids home from school, family trips, BBQ, float trips and lots of other stuff happening. Yes it is flying season and we are getting reports of some maiden flights and such but most can only fly on weekends due to their jobs. It will pick up during the build season when things settle down again.
Don't forget it is summer time, people have other things going on, kids home from school, family trips, BBQ, float trips and lots of other stuff happening. Yes it is flying season and we are getting reports of some maiden flights and such but most can only fly on weekends due to their jobs. It will pick up during the build season when things settle down again.
. Plus this summer has been really nice and since it's so short compared to you guys we need to make the most of it! So might as well enjoy it instead of 'wasting' it building inside the shop. Unfortunately it means the Waco build will be delayed a little longer.

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From: Everest,
KS
What a vacation. My wife and I spent a week in Maine (Mount Desert Island) and I had a chance to fly in a 1999 Waco YMF-5. The pilot even let me fly the plane the whole flight except take off and landing.
The experience of a life time.
Can't wait till it cools off here in Kansas so I can get my pica out and fly again.
The experience of a life time.
Can't wait till it cools off here in Kansas so I can get my pica out and fly again.
OK, Bill, here is a post - er, question.
As suggested, it took 1/4 inch out of the centr of the wheel pants Igot from Fibertech. I have put in the pants the large wheel pant mounts made by SIG. The problem is the width of the wheel does not allow any room to add a collar on the outside. I'm using the 4" skylite wheels.
If I open the inside of the wheel pant to allow it to get closer to the wire strut, it would probably allow enough room to use the collar. Iam wondering if anyone is using the piece of steel provided in the kit. This would require brazing it to the wire, but I'm afraid this would remove the temper causing the wire to bend on landings.
Comments please.
Joe
As suggested, it took 1/4 inch out of the centr of the wheel pants Igot from Fibertech. I have put in the pants the large wheel pant mounts made by SIG. The problem is the width of the wheel does not allow any room to add a collar on the outside. I'm using the 4" skylite wheels.
If I open the inside of the wheel pant to allow it to get closer to the wire strut, it would probably allow enough room to use the collar. Iam wondering if anyone is using the piece of steel provided in the kit. This would require brazing it to the wire, but I'm afraid this would remove the temper causing the wire to bend on landings.
Comments please.
Joe

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From: , PA
Bill, I don't think anybody will ever get tired of this thread. I personally would like to see more pics of the construction from start to finish, have many questions on tail wheel assembly, flying wire attachments. components people made. I haven'f found your 1/4 turn brackets, so much info to go through. What did you end up doing for your tail wheel? I saw what you did on the first few pages. Looks like a 1/12 scale nylon nose wheel bracket, I think we need a better way of going back through the many pages of great info. Most of you have built your planes, and are probably tired of all the same old questions that pop up. Me personally I will never get tired of it. I look forward to the posts. I have also seen the decline in posts, just my 2 cents worth. George

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Bill, you can sure get every ones attention including mine. I’m still waiting on my wing tubes to get started building the ¼ scale. I’ve been reading Anthony’s build on his ¼ scale and talking with Chris about his and have decided to build three piece wings. Still haven’t decided what to power it with any thoughts.
Everwood
Man that must have been a thrill flying that Waco.
Joe,
I had the same problem with my wheel pants you have to put every thing on as you slide the pant on the axel. I had to use some small needle nose to put the last collar on.
Everwood
Man that must have been a thrill flying that Waco.
Joe,
I had the same problem with my wheel pants you have to put every thing on as you slide the pant on the axel. I had to use some small needle nose to put the last collar on.


