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RE: WACO YMF - 8/1/2012 4:37 AM   
Dash7ATP



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I still haven't attached my cowl, as I was hoping to locate some of SIG's discontinued 1/4 turn latches. I have given up on those and have settled on using a system I used on the cowl of my 1/6 scale P-40.  Hopefully, these will also be very unobtrusive when completed.

I'm using 4-40 x 11/2" socket head screws for my attachments.  I  have attached a piece of thin aluminum to the bottom of 1/4 aircraft ply and attached it to the inside of the cowl. Then I drilled a hole just large enough to clear the 4 x 40 screw all the way thru the alum. Next I opened the hole large enough for the head of the screw to fit into, going as close to the alum as possible without enlarging the hole. While not necessary, I made the hole large enough for a short piece of alum tube to line the hole with a close fit on the screw head. When primer fills the small gap between the cowling surface and the alum tube, it will be a very neat hole.

The depth of the hole to the alum is deep enough to allow the screw head to go well below the surface. By some careful fitting, a smaller piece of alum tubing can go in the hole to control the depth of the screw head, leaving it flush with the surface. Once painted, it almost dissappears.

As for the internal securing points, a small block of wood will be epoxied to the aluminum on the cowl and drilled out for the screw. This piece will be about 5/8" thick and should extend to about the edge of W-1, the firewall.  The piece that attaches to the firewall will have the brass threaded insert already in it and will be screwed up tight to the underside of the cowl. When the cowl is fitted in place, the latter pieces will be epoxied to the firewall. Since they  will  be screwed tigthtly to the underside of the cowl when they were glued in place, there should be no danger of warping the cowl due to over tightening the screws when it is removed and replaced.  The small circle I have tried to draw around the screw shows about where the seperation point is between the cowl block and the fixed block on the firewwall.

I'm sure this is not a new technique, but I haven't seen it shown anywhere else.

Joe


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< Message edited by Dash7ATP -- 8/1/2012 5:04 AM >


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RE: WACO YMF - 8/1/2012 11:07 PM   
mrdhud



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Joe, I like your idea on mounting the cowl I’ll have to keep that one in mind

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RE: WACO YMF - 8/2/2012 1:40 AM   
Dash7ATP



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quote:

ORIGINAL: mrdhud

Joe, I like your idea on mounting the cowl I’ll have to keep that one in mind



Glad you like it, Dan. Here are a few more photos of the process.  They are pretty much self explainitary, with a note or two.  Since the rear edge of the cowl is even with the back of the firewall, when I drilled our the firewall mounts, I placed them on a piece of 1/4 " plywood, the same as my firewall. I drilled through the mount on the cowl and into the firewall mount with the clearance drill for the 4 x 40 screw. Using that as a guide hole, I drilled the hole for the brass insert and screwed it in flush with the surface. Screwing everything up tight, I did a trial fit on the firewall. It took a few trial fits, and some clearance cuts for the engine mount, but I'm very happy with how it came out. The mounts do take up a little room in the cowl. We'll see how it works out  when I try to stick a battery or two up there.

Joe



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RE: WACO YMF - 8/2/2012 2:02 AM   
Stickbuilder



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quote:

ORIGINAL: jmdunstan

Re:  An appropriate pilot figure

I have been searching for an appropriate pilot figure for my 1/5 scale YMF-3 without success.  What I would like to use is an ''old-timer/barnstormer'' figure - with a scarf, if possible.  I would appreciate any advice as to where I might find such a pilot figure.

Thanks,

Jim




Officer and Gentleman has one. It is a civilian sport pilot. Looks good, wearing a jacket and slacks.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

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RE: WACO YMF - 8/2/2012 3:17 PM   
LesUyeda



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Been at this game a fair number of years, and If it was me, I would mount the cowl like it was a servo; i.e., rubber gromets in the cowl, brass eyelets in the gromets, and screws thru the eyelets. Let any vibration be absorbed by the gromets, and not the fiberglass. I realize you are running a twin, so not as bad as a single, but vibtration never the less.

Les

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RE: WACO YMF - 8/2/2012 3:51 PM   
Stickbuilder



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Joe,

Go back one page. I posted a pic of the wheel pants and I'll put one of the hatch here. Seat too (can't resist) Someone asked about the cabane struts too, so here they are.


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< Message edited by Stickbuilder -- 8/2/2012 4:44 PM >


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RE: WACO YMF - 8/2/2012 5:23 PM   
Dash7ATP



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Neat work, Bill. 

I'm still trying to figure out how you did the wheel pant to hold on the wheel. I'm guessing now, but you mentioined  the brass "T" that screws into the outer side of the pant, and has a piece of tubing soldered to it. Does that piece of brass tubing actually pass over the wheel axiel ?  If so, then you're counting on the stiffness of the pant to hold the wheel in place. Correct?  I can visualize how that works, but it seems like a good side load from the inside would cause a lot of flex on the outboard side of the pant. 

Your seat looks neat, but the photo was so small I couldn't tell much about it.

Joe

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RE: WACO YMF - 8/2/2012 5:29 PM   
Dash7ATP



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quote:

ORIGINAL: LesUyeda

Been at this game a fair number of years, and If it was me, I would mount the cowl like it was a servo; i.e., rubber gromets in the cowl, brass eyelets in the gromets, and screws thru the eyelets. Let any vibration be absorbed by the gromets, and not the fiberglass. I realize you are running a twin, so not as bad as a single, but vibtration never the less.

Les


Les,

I'm sure that would save a lot of wear on screw holes in the fiberglass, but they would stand out like  a sore thumb. My goal here was to make a good solid mount and still keep it somewhat scale looking.  The mount I have made should be solid enough, and the holes for the screws are actually protected by the wood on the inside, so that there should be no vibration problems causing enlarged holes or cracks around them.

Joe



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RE: WACO YMF - 8/2/2012 8:09 PM   
acerc



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Joe, I did the horseshoe brass that is being spoke of for the wheel pant. Only I soldered a wheel collar to it. I did both side's and it is real easy to slide everything on then just tighten the wheel collar set screws.


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RE: WACO YMF - 8/3/2012 9:34 PM   
rccrasher65


 

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Robert, what did you do for your tail wheel. George


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RE: WACO YMF - 8/3/2012 9:38 PM   
rccrasher65


 

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Robert , what did you do for your tail wheel. George


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RE: WACO YMF - 8/3/2012 11:15 PM   
acerc



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I built one.

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RE: WACO YMF - 8/3/2012 11:34 PM   
Dash7ATP



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quote:

ORIGINAL: acerc

I built one.


It looks good!

Joe

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RE: WACO YMF - 8/4/2012 7:36 AM   
tmac48


 

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Hi All, been some time since I last posted. Have finally got a bit of colour on the old girl, starting to get a little excited again, still lots to do but I am enjoying the build. Will post a few photos.
Regards tmac.

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RE: WACO YMF - 8/4/2012 1:24 PM   
Dash7ATP



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Tmac48,

Beautiful work!  And it's hugh!  What kit is that?  Radial power?

Joe



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RE: WACO YMF - 8/4/2012 2:31 PM   
tmac48


 

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Hi Dash, It is a 1/3 scale kit from Peter Barth in Germany. Peter makes a superb kit and is a real great guy to deal with I just wish he would make a 40 percenter, maybe one day. No on the Radial, DA 150.
Regards tmac.

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RE: WACO YMF - 8/4/2012 4:29 PM   
Dash7ATP



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It's a beautiful model. Keep us posted on your final details and maiden flight!

Joe



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RE: WACO YMF - 8/4/2012 7:46 PM   
miltac


 

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Flew my waco for the first time this morning. All went well, the g38 was happy to pull the waco across the sky. Still a bit nose heavy but not by much. Thanks for all the help.

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RE: WACO YMF - 8/4/2012 8:42 PM   
Dash7ATP



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quote:

ORIGINAL: miltac

Flew my waco for the first time this morning. All went well, the g38 was happy to pull the waco across the sky. Still a bit nose heavy but not by much. Thanks for all the help.



1/5 scale??  Any idea of your total dry weight?
 
Glad the flight went well!

Joe

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RE: WACO YMF - 8/4/2012 9:47 PM   
miltac


 

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It is 1/5 scale, not sure of the weight but will check next time I have all together at home.

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RE: WACO YMF - 8/5/2012 1:45 AM   
mrdhud



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Tmac,
Your Waco is looking great I do like yellow. Looking forward to see more as you progress.

Miltac

Congratulations on your flight. Do you have any pictures you can share? I’m also interested in knowing what made you go with the G38

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RE: WACO YMF - 8/5/2012 4:34 AM   
miltac


 

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I will have to get some better pics, hopefully tommorrow if I can get to the field.

The only reason for using the g38 is it was free. I recieved the Waco with a Magnum 1.20 wich is a bit big for my nitro fuel budget.

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RE: WACO YMF - 8/5/2012 11:34 AM   
ceije


 

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tmac, so thats what you've been hiding there down under, looks super, yes Peter does have a great kit, my 1/4 is still in the mill. Hope to see more of yours soon.

regards,
Chris Melhus, ceije 196

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RE: WACO YMF - 8/5/2012 12:42 PM   
mrdhud



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quote:

ORIGINAL: miltac

I will have to get some better pics, hopefully tommorrow if I can get to the field.

The only reason for using the g38 is it was free. I recieved the Waco with a Magnum 1.20 wich is a bit big for my nitro fuel budget.

That sounds like the best reason of all.I only ask because I had originality used a G26 in mine but weighting in at almost 20 lbs I changed to the G38 and I like the way it fly's much better.

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RE: WACO YMF - 8/6/2012 6:44 PM   
aminiet



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If any one is interested, there is a Pica 1/5 scale YMF WACO on E BAY. It looks in excellent condition, it has 5 more days to go.

There is also a Great Planes with engine for $900.00


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