Stickbuilder

I'm very well acquainted with the 3M Scotchbrite, "Goof Eraser". The 3M 2000 grit Wet or Dry, is almost non-abrasive. It does provide an excellent foundation to buff to. My young Grandson who was down from Nashville this past week, said that it looked like a red mirror to him. Love the honest appraisals of the children.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

chris1949

Hello again Bill looking good.I had to laugh when you said feels like sanding with notebook paper,sometimes when your using it you realize your using the wrong side once it gets a little dull.Anyway keep up the nice work.Nice day today in N.Y. but our dats are getting numbered,time to look at the kit rack and see which one is next.Sign off for now,AS always Chris

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

How is the progress Bill?
I get to spend the next week sanding myself. For a young guy, I'm sure enjoying this!


PS
I will be building another, making changes etc. You also have me thinking about floats

Stickbuilder

Still color sanding and compounding. It's slow going with the 2000 grit. I'm thinking about floats as well. Perhaps the next one. It will probably be a, "Blown version of this one. Maybe a 25-27% job. I don't want to get crazy, but I think that it's easy enough to do. Lots and lots of bigger parts. There are about 1100 parts to this one, and all of them need to be perfect. I'm thinking about a Seidel radial for power. By the way, what engine are you going to be using?

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

Hi Bill,
Was hoping to get the firewall done today but, had to do some chores!
I am going to be installing a Saito 170 3 cylinder!
Here is a trial fit, let me know what you think!

Stickbuilder

I Like it ...A LOT!!!
Bill, AMA 4710
WACO Brotherhood #1

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

Good to hear, that new firewall isn't going anywhere. The only down side is having to remove the radial to get at the tank. Short job though considering how many times a guy really needs to. I'm going to have to pick up the pace here if I plan on flying this in the spring. I just ordered my paint and Brad at Stans Fiberglass has a 6 week wait list for the Fiberglass parts, worth the wait Lots to do meanwhile, that's for sure!

Here is another project for you
http://www.genesis-rc.com

Jim Henley

Hello all, my name is Jim and I just purchased a partially built YMF-3 1/5th scale at an auction. I live in Omaha NE and have been flying about 2 years. I am addressing this to Stickbuilder, but any suggestions are welcome. I was thinking about using an O.S. 120 FX for power, do you think that will be sufficient? I am thinking about going with Coverite or Koveral instead of Monocote. I also was wondering, about how to build the wing fillet, I sheeted over the wing saddle to the first stringer, but what do you attach the fillet to behind the wing? Do I need to sheet that out also or do I attach to the stringer?
Thanks for any assistance, I have enjoyed the photos and discussion thread.
Jim

Stickbuilder

Jim,

I ran the fillet out (away from the fuselage approximately 3/4"), and then added another piece of triangular sheet stock to the main fillet, and then under the stringer (don't remember the number/letter of this stringer) I glued the rear piece solidly to the main fillet and the stringer. I made a balsa side and attached it to the wing saddle and the stringer just above the saddle. This gives the fillet something to transition into. I will try to find a good picture of this and post it. If you know what you want the fillet to accomplish, you can visualize the final result, and will be able to make it work well. I too, used Koverall, as I have done for years. No Monokote or other Iron-on material for me. It just does not look right. The Koverall takes automotive primer well (after about 3 coats of Nitrate dope, and the finish is hard to tell from the real deal. The Covering over the sheeted surfaces appears to be made from metal, and the open areas has just a hint of weave evident.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Here is the pic. Open it up and then click on the lower right corner to make it full size. I think you will see how I did it.

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

Hi Jim,
Welcome to RC Universe

Excellent question, I have been going back and forward on Bill's pictures for awhile now trying to figure things out. One of my next tasks, figuring out how to scratch build a tail wheel assembly?
Sure would have been nice to get a kit

Stickbuilder

If you are going to use a tailwheel as per the plan. I would reccomend using a chunk of aluminum to make the mount from. You can machine (file) it to shape and drill the appropriate holes to mount it. If you are going with a more scale like tailwheel, then you will need to reinforce the mount former with ply, and you can use a nosewheel mount from an electric or 1/2 A model to mount the strut, and drive it with a pushrod from the rudder horn.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

This is what I was thinking as well. Just want it to be very "trouble free"!

I covered my horizontal and vertical stab lastnight with the Super Coverite. I am extremely impressed with it. Compound curves were a breeze. As much as we all love Ultracote, this Super Coverite makes it look bad.

old git

Hi again Stickbuilder,

I wonder "what" you are buffing after using 2000 grit. Painting vehicles, the only time I used 800+ was to remove the edges of stripes that had been produced by masking. The rest of the work was done with rubbing compound on a sponge using a dual action (DA) air sander. I am only asking for clarification, I am not and never was very good at producing a good finish (great at watching and making suggestions) I have used a hard masked edge and a rolled edge on the top (for stripeing) so the finish had finer "edge-less" paint at the masked edge.

It's about fifteen years since I did any painting (I've been retired over 8yrs) but I have just replaced the compressor I built over 40yrs ago, I didn't trust the receiver any more. I bought a 14cu ft FAD and a couple of proper guns to replace my old constant bleed gun and the one I LOANED to a friend.

The purpose of my questions is to see how relevant my experience of spraying will be on model aircraft. For models, I previously used shrinking dope, silver cellulose (for lightness) and covered it with a coat of automobile colour followed by single pack (furniture) polyurethane for fuel resistance and got an amazing gloss despite the occasional ugly nibs showing.

The model I have in mind for painting is the Bud Nosen Mr Mulligan kit I purchased on eBay with the new Zenoah G-38 to power it. I rather foolishly paid full price for the motor from a hobby shop in the USA. It arrived with the full price declared and the revenuers took great pleasure in charging me a considerable sum in import duty.

By the way, much as I love the Golden Age aircraft, I still think you are hiding a Spitfire somewhere, LOL.

old git - - - - -aka John L.

Jim Henley

Bill,
Thanks for the Pic and information. I could not get my fillet to look right so I glued the triangular piece to stringer !QUOT!Y!QUOT! then mounted the wing (covered with plastic wrap) and used micro balloons to build the fillet base. Once that hardened off I was able to sand the fillet down to approx 3/4!QUOT! at former F9. Now I am using balsa filler to get the correct shape. Once again thanks for the assist, I'm sure I will have more questions as I move forward.
Jim

Stickbuilder

I used Koverall to cover the entire model. I used 3 coats of shrinking Nitrate dope, and alloweed it to shrink and outgas for a few weeks. I then used a primer (automotive)(DuPont) and sanded it (about 2 coats). I then used a dual stage automobile paint system (DuPont again). I used the 2000 grit sandpaper to eliminate any orange peel in the clearcoat. The rubbing compound is to restore the gloss that the 2000 grit wet or dry paper removed. It shines as if made of glass. [8D]

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

Sounds as if you are on the right track. (I love it when great minds run along the same road)

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Jim Henley

Bill,
I still have more work to do on these fillets, but I wanted to post these photos showing the progress so far. I mounted the rear portion of the fillet in line with the trailing edge of the wing. I then built up the fillet between the fuse and wing with Micro-balloons. Once I get that finished with Hobbylight, I will add stock to the rear part of the fillet to accomodate the thickness of the trailing edge of the wing.
I like the idea of useing a 1/2 A nose gear for the tail wheel. Since the previous owner already has the kit mount installed in the fuse, I thought I could use a small wheel coller below the stock mount to keep any stress off the rudder and hinges. I think I can build a tail wheel fairing that will accomodate the changes and still look like what is shown on the plans.
More to follow as the saga unfolds.

Jim Henley

Regarding Super Coverite, I have not tried any of the fabric coverings, do you have to dope the super coverite? My concern is the fumes, when winter comes to Omaha, (and it will) I will not have the option of working outside. I would be verry interested in your thoughts. Also is there a site I can check to obtaini more information on the use of the material?
Thanks.
Jim

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

Hi Jim,
This is my first time "scale building" and also my first time using Super Coverite. I have a small can of balsarite that I have used on the edges before covering my parts. The covering goes on very well. Some guys are using auto primers directly over the coverite after a wash, some even latex paints. The Coverite itself is a satin white fuel proof finish to begin with. Myself, I am going with a candy coating. I will be using the Epoxy Paint system by KlassKote. This includes a primer then a top coat, I won't be using a clear over it though, the finish is quite nice.

Getting excited!

Jim Henley

WOW! I bet your excited! This is my first scale build as well so this is all new to me. I like the thought of not having to dope the material due to the fumes. I suspect you have the same issue we do here, once winter sets in one is quite limited on what can be done outside. I will have to take a look at the Klass Kote, I wonder if it is like the old Hobbypoxy from years ago (control line days).
Have you used the Klass Kote before? Can you spray this product or do you have to brush it out?
Please keep us posted on your progress.
Jim

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

Hi Jim,
there is a lot of useful information on the Cdn KlassKote site http://www.klasskote.ca including some really nice pictures of the BC Scale Classic our club hosted and will be hosting again. A lot of guys say it is similiar to the K&B line that is no longer available. Very much so, our winters are quite chilli as well. You can spray it reduced or roll/brush it on. First time use for me as well

Stickbuilder

Jim,

Looks to me as if you are on the right track with the fillets.


H-500,

What's the problem with whiffing dope fumes in the winter. Keeps the bar bill down

John,

Spitfire in here?????[:'(] Dad flew Thunderbolts out of england 1943-1945

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

Jim,

I hope that you have not glued the headrest/Dorsal fairing in place yet. If you have, you may find that the covering material wants to pull away at the transition of the fuse to the headrest. You can overcome this by using a strip of covering (3/8" wide or so) and applying it using only nitrate dope. Do not add any heat in this area after you have the transition tape adhered. The best method is to cover the fuse, and the headrest seperately, and attach after covering and then add the transition tape. Best of luck,

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Jim Henley

Bill,
Unfortunately the prior owner/builder has glued the tail group and head rest to the fuse. I noticed in the manual they give the same advice, to cover the parts first. I may see if I can get
the headrest off with out too much damage. If not, I will utilize your suggestion. That's the bad part about getting something half built, too often one has to rebuild what has already been built.
I am concerned that the stab has 0 degrees of incidence, instead of the recomended +2 degrees. Do you think this will make the plane unflyable? I hate to have to cut through all that Ambroid unless it is absolutely necessary. I have already had to make some changes in the way the lower wing had been attached, ( 8/20 brass bolts through the mounting plate and the nuts would screw down against the trailing edge of the wing) so if I have to remove the tail group so be it.
Thanks!
Jim

Stickbuilder

Jim,

2 degrees at such a long moment is quite a bit. I hate to say this, but I would do it if at all possible.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1