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Joined: 6/29/2004 From: Evansville,
IN, USA Status: offline
Dick Smith,
When I got my plane I just added a little 30 min. epoxy to the landing gear area and a lot of other areas like I do on all ARF's. I flew mine for more than half the summer last year without a problem. I haven't flown it yet this year but I alway pull a little maintenance on all my planes before they go up for the first time in a new year just to make sure nothing is loose, worn, or broke. As the summer goes on we tend to forget about doing our pre-flight checks. It lands a lot better than you might think. Great flying plane, you'll love it.
The landing gear problem of breaking off in not too hard landings has been mentioned by many people. That's the reason on my reinforcing it before I have an oportunity to fly it, plenty of snow here still.
Yes, many ARF's of different makes have that problem, I guess it is a problem of quality control or wood specs provided to the (Asian) manufacturers or original design. But the problem IS there....
Another problem people mentioned is that they didn't trust the wheel axles provided. When I tried to install them one broke up making me look for a susbstitute. I bought another from my LHS but then I was reluctant to enlarge the whole in the alumiium legs to fit it in.
Then I hit in the following solution. Hoping it will work OK... I installed an 8-32 bolt, 1.5" long, fastening it to the arm with two nuts plus lock washers. The head of the bolt provides the wheel retaining in the outside (plus a washer) and the wheel collar is installed to provide a spacer for the wheel to clear the arm. It rotates freely, is not set with the screw. The wheel pants go in perfectly, allowing them to be installed or removed without undoing the wheel setup. Since I will try the Yak in a grass field I used the original wheels but will fly it without the pants at the beginning...
For what is worth.... two pics better than a lengthy explanation....
< Message edited by beto9 -- 3/14/2008 5:54:43 PM >
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Joined: 5/5/2005 From: San Jose,
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The wood that they used in the gear area is perforated inside probably to save weight but IMO a bad decision by Aeroworks. There was not a lot of glue on the plates either.
The reason my gear broke off was because of the grass area on the side of our runway. The plane deadsticked and when it touched the grass, the gear got caught it focusing all of the plane's weight on the gear area and broke it back, pushing the gear back and up. At first I thought it was a great landing for a deadstick and everything was going to be fine, but when I heard the "crack" I became very disappointed.
The plane is structurally sound and very well built, but it does have its achilles heel and that is the landing gear area. All I had done to "reinforce" the area was soak some CA into the area, but that proved to be invaluable. Go ahead and paint some epoxy in that area and I'm sure it will be fine.
To anyone considering this plane, DON'T WORRY!!! It's a great plane and you will love it. I still stand with my previous conclusion that this is the best ARF I have ever owned. No questions asked!
< Message edited by Ferocious Frankie -- 3/15/2008 7:28:35 AM >
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Joined: 12/19/2002 From: South croydon, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Frankie,
You are absolutely right, I could not agree more, it's just a shame that Aero-Works have not specified a higher quality of wood for the landing gear supports. How is your repair going? It would be very interesting to have some comment from Aero-works on this subject, maybe it is not quite as simple a matter as it would seem to us!
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Joined: 1/13/2003 From: Pittsburgh,
PA, USA Status: offline
Peter
First of all I am not connected with Aeroworks. I have owned two other Aeroworks planes. I still have the Aeroworks Edge 540 (1/4 scale kit version) that I have been flying for about 9 years. It is the oldest plane in my 11 plane hangar. It still remains my favority plane to fly. I did call Aeroworks this past week and spoke to an individual who knew what he was talking about. First of all everyone know that Aeroworks is a first class outfit that manufactures World Class Aircraft. The same Aircraft that they sell to us are used in meets throughout the country. They told me the following. Any Aircraft that has a hard enough landing will most likely pull out the gear. As Ferocious Frankie said happened to his. Our field has high grass around the edges of the field, and if you hit that stuff it will tear out more than the landing gear. They disagree about the quality of the wood in that area. They also told me that they are not receiving many camplaints about this matter. They suggest using bigger wheels on grass fields. They suggest that the yak does not require a real fast landing but at the same time say that they need to be flown in. All that I am doing about this concern is coating the area with West Systems Epoxy. (G/Flex) YAK MAN II
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Joined: 6/29/2004 From: Evansville,
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Dick Smith,
I agree with everything that Aeroworks said except the part about the plane needs to be "flown in" for landings. I can cut the throttle a pretty good ways out and it will float on in for a nice landing. I have mine just a little on the tail heavy side so I guess if the CG was moved more forward making for a nose heavy plane you may have to fly it in but that would be with any plane that is nose heavy. Very nice flying plane and the color scheme draws a lot of attention.
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Joined: 9/26/2006 From: West Carrollton,
OH, USA Status: offline
Balance is ok, I should have put on that bib! I did have about 2 hrs of covering work, it was pretty wrinkled and loose. Had to pull it loose in a couple of areas, and re-tuck it. Looks great now. I'll just put a piece of fuel tubing on the clevis's, seems to hold them well. Not use to this much of the work being done already, very nice.
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Joined: 5/5/2005 From: San Jose,
CA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Jimeni
Balance is ok, I should have put on that bib! I did have about 2 hrs of covering work, it was pretty wrinkled and loose. Had to pull it loose in a couple of areas, and re-tuck it. Looks great now. I'll just put a piece of fuel tubing on the clevis's, seems to hold them well. Not use to this much of the work being done already, very nice.
I just used some fuel tubing around the clevis and have never had problems. Make sure you use at leasy 3/32" because it might tear into into, but I've never had that problem.
My repair is going great and I think it'll be ready by the next weekend!
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Joined: 3/4/2006 From: MYRTLE BEACH,
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I am getting ready to get the 90-120 Yak and install an OS 160 engine. I can't seem to find throughout this post any suggestions as to balancing, etc with the 160. Where to mount battery, rec., etc. Things I should watch out for with this combo. I am thinking about running a perry pump so as to be able to mount fuel tank more aft ?? I have Hi-tec Digital Servos and a 6 volt battery intended for this plane. I have never used a pump or this size engine before. I am not CURRENTLY into 3D, just getting my feet wet and wanting to learn for a 60 + year old, with depth perception creeping up on me !!! Any suggestions or recomendations will be GREATLY appreciated !!! Many Thanks---------WOODIE
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Joined: 1/13/2003 From: Pittsburgh,
PA, USA Status: offline
Woody From a 71 year old to a + 60 year old. If you can handle that plane with a 160 2 stroke Bless You. I know what you mean about depth perception. I have an O.S. 120 2 stroke in mine and had to add 1.5 ounces to the nose. I am using a very light battery pack and I installed that in the back of the wing opening. With the 1.5 ounces that I added to the nose it still weighs in under 10 lbs. If you check out the weight of the 120 stroke and the 160 stroke you should get a good idea on how to handle your weight concerns. My 3D abilities are wanting, but I just enjoy flying nice aircraft. My fuel tank is in the recommended area.
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RE: Introduci... - 
No questions asked!
Any suggestions or recomendations will be GREATLY appreciated !!! Many Thanks---------WOODIE