Posts: 365
Joined: 10/18/2002 From: Hagerstown,
IN, USA Status: offline
The 50cc Aeroworksyak is so smooth I ordered the 90-120 After reading this 54 page thread and talking to Aeroworks salesman the OS 160 FX is going into my yet to be deleivered yak! I only know how to fly 3D with stupid power This will be the second plane in my current hanger thats not a profile. I've read several posts of different setups where the stock fuel tank was exchanged for a 24 oz tank. Could someone share the type of tank that fits? I also read one post where the writer stated the 160 was "loading up" with an APC 18X6 W? What prop is good to start with?
Thanks for you input. The high speed needle valve wouldn't be a problem to get to as the extension would just come out at an angle however, thanks to your comments, I've had a closer look and mocked-up my muffler (factory Saito muffler) and think that the needle valve is just too close to the exhaust header and the heat might cause me some problems. So... I think I like your way of doing it is better and I'm going to straighten the intake back out, flip the carb and move it all forward. I just feel safer that way. With the power of the 180, balancing the plane with an extra oz. or two or shuffling batteries around won't be that big of a deal. Your plane looks great in your gallery ! I'm REALLY happy with the quality, fit and finish of the Aeroworks product. I would recommend it to anyone ! Thanks again !
Thanks for your last reply... Now I'm curious about how you did your throttle linkage. I found that with the Saito 180, my throttle control arm on the carb is exactly in line with the edge of the engine box. If I turn the throttle control arm around 180 degrees, the linkage rod will go right were the fuel tank is and I don't want to go JUST inside the edge of the engine box or I'll have to drill right through the gusset inside. Any recommendations as to how you did it? One other thing, I used the supplied bolts to attach the engine mounts to the firewall but the supplied bolts protrude about 1/4" past the backside of the firewall (ie: into the fuse). Now when I try to install my fuel tank, I can't slide it all the way forward because it hits the protruding ends of the bolts. I know... the obvious fix is to use shorter bolts which is what I will end-up doing but has anyone else run into this problem and if so, why is AW supplying bolts that are too long?
Posts: 525
Joined: 5/5/2005 From: San Jose,
CA, USA Status: offline
My throttle pushrod is well into the engine box and inside the fuse, the rod goes directly by the right side of the tank with the supplied pushrod tube and mount in there. Remember, my carb is flipped. BTW, do not use the included throttle servo mount. If you do, the pushrod will be way too high and would be virtually impossible to do without being on the top edge of engine box and without binding. The mount is for two strokes. Just use the right servo cut-out in the tank tray.
Your tank should not be touching against the engine box. A little behind, not hitting the bolts is perfect. I did not use the supplied tank because of the Saito's thirst. Upgraded to a Du-Bro 24 oz square tank and ditched the tank support that goes behind the tank. I used two zip ties and the supplied velcro wrap. The tank is solid in there with the supplied hard foam glued to the tank tray.
Hope this info helps you out.
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"To fly is everything." -Wright Brothers Club Site: www.sccmas.org
Posts: 365
Joined: 10/18/2002 From: Hagerstown,
IN, USA Status: offline
Thanks for the info about the tank. Great Planes 24oz does not fit at all! I have the wings done. I just got the custom spinner from Dave Brown today. I'm excited! I just hope it flys like my 50cc Big brother QB Yak!
Posts: 2
Joined: 10/14/2004 From: , ON, CANADA Status: offline
I have got to the point of installing the fuel tank and find it is much too short to fit in the space provided and the screws holding the engine mounts to the firewall protrude into the fuel tank compartment and might puncture the tank. In any event, the tank will inevitably move forward and backward without some "stops" installed. This is the first problem I have encountered with this QB which has otherwise been a breeze to assemble. Your recommendation(s) would be appreciated.
Posts: 2
Joined: 10/14/2004 From: , ON, CANADA Status: offline
To make a decent throttle linkage I used a 2" double servo arm mounted on the RH side of the box forward of the firewall. It is secured with a bolt through that box and mounted so that it is free to pivot. The lower end of the arm is coupled to the OS 120 throttle while the upper end is linked to the actual servo mounted on the floor. I've tried to attach an image of this but couldn't do it. If you'd like it, send me an email to Binker@sympatico.ca and I'll return with the image attached.
The fuel tank problem remains essentially unresolved. I have installed the 450cc tank provided but I'll have to do something to stop it from moving back and forth.
Posts: 365
Joined: 10/18/2002 From: Hagerstown,
IN, USA Status: offline
Binker great question......I'm looking at the same problem and where is the best place to install the fuel fitting. I am using an FX 160 and am using large fuel line. Do I need large fuel line? I plan on using a cable for the throttle servo. The cable bends under the tank and right next to the motor mount. The quality of this model is first class. I know the tank can be held in place with the stock hardware supplied. I don't like the big hole in the firewall with a glow engine. The hole is easy enough to fix.
Binker and Ultimateflyer120... I may be able to help you as I just went through those same issues (if you read back a bit) and Ferocious Frankie helped me out. Now it's my turn to pass-on some wisdom. With respect to the fuel tank, I have installed a Dubro 24oz. tank. They're cheap ($7) and fit great. I have a SAITO 180 in mine so a little extra fuel onboard will be a 'nice to have'. When I first tried to fit the factory tank in, I too questioned why it was hitting the motor-mount bolt inside the firewall. If you notice in the instructions, the tank is not pushed all the way forward. If you look in the photos where the back of the tank sits when it's fully installed, it isn't pushed all the way forward. Every other plane I've had had the tank pushed forward and the rubber stopper protruded throught the big hole but not this model I guess and I can't see any issue with it not being against the fire wall. If anything, you might get a bit of airflow through the fuse to keep the batteries and electronics cool ? Anyway, the Dubro 24oz. tank that I have is longer and does sit against the firewall but because of it's shape, it doesn't hit the motormount bolts. You might consider this cheap upgrade that will give you longer flying times and maybe you'll sleep better knowing your tank is braced on the front by the firewall. I didn't install the little bracket behind the tank. It's good and secure with velcro straps.
Now, regarding the throttle linkage, I too had a problem because with the SAITO 180, the throttle control arm on the carb was such that it was perfectly in-line with the one side of the engine box. I didn't want to drill a hole through the firewall right at the edge as it would have passed right though the corner gusset mounted inside and possibly weaken it. So, I ran my throttle linkage on the outside of the engine box and between the two walls of the fuse. I cut out a small section of the sidewall webbing and turned my throttle servo arm around to it protruded through the cut-out. The servo arm is longer but it works great after adjusting the endpoints with my radio. It's a bit hard to describe so here are some pics. I was too lazy to pull my spinner, prop and cowl off to photograph the engine compartment side but I think you'll get the idea. For more pics of my plane and set-up, click this link which will take you to our club site's photo gallery and my plane. http://www.kmasrc.ca/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=41.
Any other issues, let me know and I'll try to help since I just finished my plane. Take care !
Posts: 444
Joined: 9/26/2006 From: West Carrollton,
OH, USA Status: offline
Have you guys looked at the new MLD 28cc (SPE)? Think I'm gonna replace the Saito 180 with it, It weighs the same as the 180 with muffler and ignition. Cant afford glow anymore LOL. It was designed with this plane as one of the target aircraft. Also, the pitts muffler for the SPE 26 will fit it.
Ummmm...... Why? If you're looking for more power than the Saito 180 on the 1.20 YAK, maybe you should be looking at getting into a larger class like 50cc or bigger. I can't imagine needing more power on this plane than what the 180 offers. If it's just fuel cost that's making you think you should change your engine, remember... you could buy A LOT of glow fuel for what you'll spend on a new engine. And remember... if you take that 180 off, if you're anything like me, you'll spend even more money on another plane too to put it on. You can't just let a Saito 180 sit on the shelf. It'll need a new home. Just food for thought. If you haven't noticed, I LOVE SAITO's !!!
Posts: 525
Joined: 5/5/2005 From: San Jose,
CA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Jimeni
Have you guys looked at the new MLD 28cc (SPE)? Think I'm gonna replace the Saito 180 with it, It weighs the same as the 180 with muffler and ignition. Cant afford glow anymore LOL. It was designed with this plane as one of the target aircraft. Also, the pitts muffler for the SPE 26 will fit it.
If you read back on this thread someone had this engine. That should help you if you go that way. BTW, I really doubt that engine will give you the power of the 1.80. Just a thought, but gas seems to be the mode now. LOL
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"To fly is everything." -Wright Brothers Club Site: www.sccmas.org
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic >> Aero-Works Support >> RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB 
RE: In... - 
Ummmm...... Why? If you're looking for more power than the 