Blade cx - Stabilizer Flybar help  
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Blade cx - Stabilizer Flybar help - 4/11/2006 7:32:18 PM   
747



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From: Downingtown, PA, USA
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Guys I got my blade cx atlast. I tried to fly it and it was hovering but slowly drifting to left and back ,so I adjusted the trims.

It unfortunately hit the chair and broke the top Stabilizer . Part listed is: Stabilizer Flybar Set:BCX in horizon website. But the issue is I think I broke the axis connecting the Stabilizer to the main axis of the rotors. What should I replace ? Please advise..is it the
' Stabilizer Flybar Set:BCX ' or is it the axis' top portion (dont know what the part is).

Please help..
Thanks!!


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RE: Blade cx - Stabilizer Flybar help - 4/11/2006 8:11:24 PM   
bpd282


 

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From: Littleton, CO, USA
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I think you may have broken the inner shaft, also known as the infamous part #EFLH1212. The flybar connects into the hub of the inner shaft. If you struck the top rotors hard enough, this piece usually breaks right at the hub. You can by a plastic one for about $8.99 or buy the aluminum head one for about $16.00. If you are just learning, it may be worth spending the extra bucks. Hope this helps.

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RE: Blade cx - Stabilizer Flybar help - 4/11/2006 8:39:24 PM   
I.C.O.N.



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From: Buffalo, MN, USA
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Don't buy the alum head. not worth .02 IMHO.

CA your current one back together and then wrap string around it and CA it again.

also take the top screw out.

Even if you buy a new plastic one and take the top screw out it will last a long time. The flybar will pop out if it is struck.

ALUM HEAD IS A WASTE OF MONEY. my .02

and i am broke so the extra $8 buys a lot of blades :>

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RE: Blade cx - Stabilizer Flybar help - 4/11/2006 8:52:35 PM   
747



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From: Downingtown, PA, USA
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Thanks guys...

So the CX does not always fly /hover perfectly out of the box? Does everyone do a lot of trimming?? I thought this bird was 'super-stable'.....out of the box!! Or maybe I should NEVER practice hover until trims adjusted fully inside the house.

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RE: Blade cx - Stabilizer Flybar help - 4/11/2006 10:45:46 PM   
bpd282


 

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The only issue I had with my CX when new was trying to control the tail movement from left to right. I tweaked my CX by following what the instructions said.

Start off with a fresh battery- Very important. Throttle up and if your nose goest right, you have to turn the pot control on the 4-and-1 control to the left (Make sure you unplug the battery before doing this). If the nose goes to the left, turn it to the right. Make sure you unplug the battery before making adjustments to the pot conrol. You should also turn it very slightly, a little adjustment goes a long way. If you can, do this until the tail does not budge. You may get a little movement, if so just use a little trim- no big deal.

Things to remember- As your battery wears down, you will notice a change in the tail control. When you start off, make sure the trims are set in nuetral position. Don't move the heli at all after plugging in the battery, the gyro is very sensitive and movement during start-up causes problems. The CX is a very-very stable helicopter, but does have a slight learning curve. Yes, you do have to use some trim, but you will find when you finally get it where you either want it, the CX is a blast.

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RE: Blade cx - Stabilizer Flybar help - 4/12/2006 6:07:10 PM   
747



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bpd282, thanks for the detail....you the man

Are you saying that to trim my new CX for a perfect hover I should start of by trimming at the "4-and-1 control " level first (with trims neutral at Tx)and fly and THEN do the final trimming at the transmitter? Coz before I broke that black U-shaped thing on top(the one that holds the stabilizer), I noticed that triming at the Tx produced only little effect.

Last nite I CA'ed the U-shaped thing to its base, today I am gonna try and fly...Lets see!

Also can you tell me if its Ok to charge the battery while its inside the heli firmly seated?



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RE: Blade cx - Stabilizer Flybar help - 4/12/2006 6:30:37 PM   
bpd282


 

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Yep, start with the Rx trims at nuetral and then do the pot thing. Do final adjustments with Rx. One fun note, if you cant get the nose stable with trim and pot, no big deal. Learn to fly by controlling the tail movement. Even more fun is when you have heavy trim for nose movement. This allows you to snap a 360 real fast. Get it close to stable and then just fly. Compared to the Blade CP the CX is indcredibly stable. Even if the pot or trims are off. CP is exponentially more difficult to fly.

As for charging the battery inside the heli, yeah you could do that- But if you have problems with the lipo, it could cause a fire. Better to loose a battery than a bat+heli or possibly worse.

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RE: Blade cx - Stabilizer Flybar help - 4/18/2006 6:27:59 PM   
747



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It worked!(for the nose /yaw control)..... but the stabilizer 's Base (the black thing) that I CA'ed after it broke is still not perfectly vertical. Now the heli sways (inconsistently-rolls sideways and fwd/backward etc).Even if I adjust the aileron/elev trims, it doesnt help.

So does the stabilizer play an important role in this?...what kind of movement does the stabilizer bar control? Is it the Aileron (roll) or pitch ....or is it the Yaw(nose/tail)?

Wonder if I can try to CA again perfectly or should I get that new aluminum part (part# #EFLH1212)

Pls advice.

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RE: Blade cx - Stabilizer Flybar help - 4/19/2006 2:13:31 AM   
bpd282


 

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If you use glue to fix the head, you have to absolutely make sure it fits and stays perfectly together. If you have any deviation, it will cause all kinds of movement problems (Probably front-back and side to side).

You can buy another plastic one for about $8-9 or purchase the aluminum head one for about 17.00. I have glued many before I purchased the aluminum head/shaft. With the aluminum one, if you have a very hard blade strike, it is likely that the shaft will bend and that on costs about $4 to replace.

If you buy a plastic one, wrap the part where the original one broke with sewing thread and then drip CA (super glue) into the thread. This will make a cast like collar around the weak point of the part. Dont make the wrap too thick, but not too thin either. I learned this from an earlier post. Worked great. Still bought the almuninum one later though.

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RE: Blade cx - Stabilizer Flybar help - 4/20/2006 4:06:09 AM   
lescollins


 

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Any ideas?: My CX flies perfectly- for about 30-60 seconds then slowly loses power and sinks to the ground where I can barely keep it up in ground effect. It acts exactly like it would if the battery was getting low. 2 different fully charged batteries did the same thing. I then figured out that if I let it rest for about 1-2 minutes, without changing battery and without unhooking the battery, it will fly again as good as new, but only for the same 30-60 seconds. The motor does not feel hot, the front canopy is off so the controller is well-ventilated so I don't get it. All of my batteries are about 4 months old but my charger does not send me the bad battery signal. Because the bird was also turning slowly and uncontrollably in one direction as it lost power, I replaced the left motor, thinking it was bad, which did fix the turning tendency but it did not help prolong the flying time. Any ideas?
Les

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RE: Blade cx - Stabilizer Flybar help - 4/21/2006 2:47:15 AM   
bpd282


 

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Joined: 3/26/2006
From: Littleton, CO, USA
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Les,

I had the exact same issue with my first stock battery. It sounds like the battery was over discharged once. I have to admit that when I had the issue, I flew too long and the battery was never the same. I would have full power for about a minute, then it would not even hover. The bat would charge for an hour with no signs of error. I called Horizon and they were very helpful and sent a new battery to me for free (Outstanding customer service). With the replacement, it was like new again.

If you have a friend, try his/her battery to see if that is the problem.

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