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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 1/13/2008 11:09 PM   
majorwoody


 

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Thanks will try

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 1/16/2008 1:25 PM   
nicolai1


 

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Does any1 know if parts for Blade CX2 RTF Electric Coaxial Heli fits lama v3??

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 1/16/2008 11:32 PM   
bberdel


 

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I crashed mine, fixed it and now it is not taking off...Had to replace the inner shaft, landing gear and 2 blades.

I noticed the blades have little #s on them. does it matter which blade you put where? Any other suggestions?

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 1/16/2008 11:47 PM   
bberdel


 

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It is just spinning around in circles then tilting on its side...

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 2/3/2008 2:42 AM   
rhersh


 

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Ok here i goes. I thought my servo was bad, then i thought it was the
4-1 reciever . Of course it was'nt either one of those. Come to relize it is the forward-reverse flight stick on the radio. Anyone have any clues what to try ?
I took the radio apart its all @#$%^&@# to me. I have a falcon 40 from exceed could i change the channel crystals and use it? It is a 6CH radio. And if i can
what would i change the settings too. The falcon does'nt take a lipo batt. Help !!!!!!!!!!



rhersh

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 2/7/2009 11:53 PM   
pgroom_68


 

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Hey guys - I've tried to revive this thread for those of us who are new to the Lama3 - IT MAY FAIL AGAIN - due to them being nearly identical on the inside to the more popular Lama4 model, but I can see distinct differences (I have had three x Lama4s for a couple of years & just got a Lama3 second-hand yesterday from a mate of mine!). Below are some pics of my Lama3

Also, I thought this link might be relevant - originally by GTX_Slotcar on Pg1 of Lama4 Thread 4in1 adjustment

DON'T FORGET TO COME BACK HERE AFTER YOU'VE READ IT


Peter

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< Message edited by pgroom_68 -- 2/26/2009 4:43 AM >


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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 2/10/2009 2:01 AM   
pgroom_68


 

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Awww C'mon guys,

There must be someone else apart from me that has bought a Esky Lama 3 that has questions about Lama3 specific things!
Or do you know everything about them now? I know I don't know everything - but may be able to help you with a few ideas

Peter

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 2/13/2009 1:11 AM   
pgroom_68


 

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I like the fact that the servo arms are not cut off like they are on the V4. This means that I moved both the bell link arms out to the second-to-last holes and it is a lot more manuvorable now - even to the extent of being a bit of a handful sometimes. At the same time, the Goldslinger allows me to move the weights of the flybar inwards towards the hub both sides equi-distant from centre. This make the whole heli UNSTABLE - but you can get into Forward Flight a lot easier - and the best part is that you can maintain it 'cause the flybar doesn't have as much say as to how horizontal the blades have to be!
If I don't want to do Forward Flight - but want to gently hover - I can move the weights back out again and the whole bird becomes stable again - so stable infact that I left it hovering today and just put the Tx down and went to the bathroom for a leak, washed up and when I returned - it was still doing a waist-height hover TRUE STORY!
What I don't like about this particular heli is the fact that it is louder than any of my V4s! I have tried many things to quiet it down a bit: silicon-based spray on the main gears, 3in1 oil on the motors (just under the pinion on the brass bushes), I even sprayed the centre shaft the last time I had it out - SILICON SPRAY leaves a fine surface film that lowers friction - but nothing worked well enough to help. I may have to buy another set of motors in order to see if it is just the "open" type of fuselage that is making the difference!

Later

Peter

< Message edited by pgroom_68 -- 2/13/2009 1:23 AM >


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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 2/17/2009 7:40 AM   
pgroom_68


 

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Can anyone tell me when the 4in1s (from Lama4s) were first used in Lama3s?

Peter

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 2/17/2009 10:39 AM   
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Hey Peter, I have a V3, but pretty much just post on the V4 thread (as you have seen). Since there're pretty much the same heli and there seems to be more interest in the V4's, it just seemed like the best option. I do have a V3-specific recommendation, though. The original tail that came with mine was like brittle twigs. Any crash and it pretty much broke into multiple pieces. I did some gluing and creative reassembly (when pieces or sections were so bad off that I couldn't get them to go back together reasonably), but eventually bought a second tail. Before I installed it, I covered it with a thin layer of clear shoo-goo - a very rubbery, thick adhesive that I think is designed to build up worn areas in soles of shoes (or something like that). I figured the the original was already more glue than plastic, so doing a bit of "pre-emptive gluing" might keep the second one together. Well, it worked a treat. The shoo-goo seemed to do something to the plastic, and it made it very flexible (not too flexible to hold it's shape, but it's not brittle like the first tail). Now I fly around the living room, and when I crash I ask my 2.5 year old to go get daddy's helicopter. He walks over and picks it up by the loop in the back of the tail - not always vertically (sometimes putting some pretty awkward bends into it), but it has never broken. I also put some shoo-goo onto the skids at the same time, and they seem to have been affected similarly. I haven't had to glue or fix in any other way the skids since I coated them in shoo-goo.

Shoo-goo is available at a lot of places in the states, but I had to look a lot for it in Australia. I eventually found it at a shoe repair/key making shop (one in Bondi Junction), and they no longer have it. If you look around, though, I'll bet at the more complete shoe repair places they have it.

Just a suggestion...

And sorry, I don't know when they switched over on the 4-in-1's... I thought that they were all the same as in the V4's? Maybe not, though...

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 2/17/2009 10:47 AM   
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Ah, I think this is it:

http://www.kingsgrovesports.com.au/cricket/go/Accessories-Misc/Bat-Accessories/Toe-Shoo-Goo

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 2/18/2009 7:07 AM   
pgroom_68


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: downunderdog
Any crash and it pretty much broke into multiple pieces.
Shoo-goo...I'll bet at the more complete shoe repair places they have it.
And sorry, I don't know when they switched over on the 4-in-1's... I thought that they were all the same as in the V4's? Maybe not, though...

Hey DUD,

THANK GOD! Someone to type to instead of myself! I hope the original Esky tails have improved 'cause (as you can see from pics above) - my tail was changed by the previous owner to be an Xtreme flexible yellow - AND IT WAS BROKEN WHEN IT ARRIVED! I've tried gluing it twice - but it just laughs at Superglue (CA for the Americans). I will definitely give Shoo-goo a go when the new tail arrives from HongKong in its pristine condition! I take it you apply it "liberally" everywhere and it doesn't add weight to the tail?

The 4in1s were different at the start of this thread years ago (only one pot) - and my Dauphin has the same part number EK2-0705B, but even it is more complete! It has banks of 3-pins on starboard side under Ch1&2 which are used to run the flashing (blue) light on top of tail.
Do you know of the correct colours to run on an aircraft and where? I have heard white is at rear centre and red is Starboard & green is Port - that means NO blue. Is that correct?

Here is an interesting site on "heli" videography. There are 30 videos on RHS of page to watch also................ ITS NICE TO DREAM BUT US$15 000 IS A BIT MUCH!

Peter

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 2/18/2009 11:06 AM   
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It was a while ago that I did it, so I just went and had a look. It looks like I mostly just coated the three main fore-aft segments of the tail section, and didn't put too much on the interconnecting thin support structure. I'm sure it added a bit of weight, but it wasn't really noticeable (I had a lot of glue on the one that I removed to hold it together, anyway).

With regard to navigation lights:

Short words go together: Left - Red - Port
Long words go together: Right - Green - Starboard

That's how I remember, anyway.

I'll try to attach a couple of photos of the "sneezed on tail section".

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 2/18/2009 12:09 PM   
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Mechanically the only difference between the V3 and the V4 is the shaft, swashplate linkages, swashplate, and servo horns.

The shaft holes are 2mm lower on the V3 than the V4 and the servo horns aren't cut. This of course means that the servo linkages have to be longer to make up for it, the swashplate is also a bit taller if I remember right to compensate for this also.

Of course the bodies and frames are quite a bit different, but in the end they are the same helicopter. The V4 is just a V3 with a makeover.

As far as upgrades go to the V3, my first suggestion would be getting rid of the battery tray, then screwing a 1 inch wide strip of plastic (old credit card, library card, hotel key, whatever is handy) on using the 4 screws that hold on your skids. Easiest way to measure the plastic is to cut it about 1/8 wider than the locations of the screw holes. Put a two inch long piece of velcro onto it (the hook side) and then put the cloth velcro pieces onto your batteries. No more struggling to get them in and out.

Almost forgot to add. To fix that tail, take some thread (ordinary sewing thread) and wrap it around both pieces so they hold together. Then generously apply your super glue to the thread. It'll bond like a cast and it'll never come apart again.

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 2/22/2009 6:09 AM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: barak1001
Almost forgot to add. To fix that tail, take some thread (ordinary sewing thread) and wrap it around both pieces so they hold together. Then generously apply your super glue to the thread. It'll bond like a cast and it'll never come apart again.

Hey again Barak,

I tried that way to repair the tail yesterday and it failed again. So I "bit the bullet" & bought some special glue that bonds ANY plastics. @ AUD$17 a tube & marker set I thought to myself - it'd better work! IT DID - NO PROBLEM! No shaking, or vibrations anymore in tail...

Peter

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 2/22/2009 6:17 AM   
pgroom_68


 

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Hey all,

I think this will be my next project. Pontoons, as we call them, would allow me to fly over and land on the FRESH WATER ¼-Olympic size swimming pool opposite my front door at work OR the surrounding grass areas - so I reckon I would be flying the L3 more often!




Peter

< Message edited by pgroom_68 -- 2/22/2009 8:14 AM >


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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 2/26/2009 4:49 AM   
pgroom_68


 

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Hey again all,

If you don't know how to submit a question - this is how you do it. GO TO THE BOTTOM OF A PAGE & TYPE A QUESTION IN THE "Fast Reply" area - and click OK. It's that easy!!
(You can embellish your posts with smileys by clicking at the appropriate time also - but you don't have to do that)

If I can't answer your question, I may be able to refer you to someone who can!

Peter

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/2/2009 6:45 AM   
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Hey all,

My Lama3 just got a new tail today. It had a yellow flexi-tail - which was broken just at the top-starboard behind the fake motor (and I had to buy suitable glue for that type of plastic), but three weeks ago I ordered both a new cabin & tail as a set from HongKong so I could get them cheaply - and they arrived today.

Peter
P.S. I will put them both on for a pic later.

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/8/2009 10:19 AM   
pgroom_68


 

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Does anyone know WHEN the Lama4 4in1 was first put into the Lama3?

Peter

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/9/2009 12:39 PM   
pgroom_68


 

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Hey DownUnderDog,

I got some insulation and heatshrink tubing - enough to make floats for my Lama3 - but I don't have any flat cross-sticks (like popsicle sticks made of CF or glass fibre) - only 2mm CF rod. I don't think this stuff would be strong enough. Do you know of a cheap Aussie shop I could get a few sticks of preferably CF from?

For pics of what I am talking see post 91 above.......

Peter

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/10/2009 12:20 PM   
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I've bought CF tubes and rod from http://www.hstore.com.au , but they don't have it on their website. I think I bought some 5 mm OD hollow tubing (3 or 4 mm ID) for around $5 per 75 cm length... it was a while ago, so I don't remember the length or price for sure. I also bought some 1 x 3 mm rectangular section "beam" to act as a spar in a 200 gram biplane, and it worked great.

I eventually just decided to go for it and place an order from hobbycity to get about 10 pieces all at once (you get the "extra weight" charge for the bulky tube to ship it in, but then you can order a bunch without additional shipping charge).

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/11/2009 2:47 PM   
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Ok here's a question. The pinions onthe motors are steel. The gears for the shafts are plastic. Do non-plastic gears exist? I mean even if you aren't Crashy McGee like me, the plastic will eventually wear out.......

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/11/2009 4:10 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: pgroom_68

Does anyone know WHEN the Lama4 4in1 was first put into the Lama3?

Peter

I'm unsure as to what you're referring to as a lama v3 4n1 vs a lama v4 4in1. They are the same exact unit. The newer units have pins soldered in for channels 5 and 6, but they are functionally identical to the units before them.


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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/11/2009 4:15 PM   
barak1001


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: MMike1

Ok here's a question. The pinions onthe motors are steel. The gears for the shafts are plastic. Do non-plastic gears exist? I mean even if you aren't Crashy McGee like me, the plastic will eventually wear out.......

The pinions on the motors are copper.

If the gears were made out of metal, it would cause several possible scenarios:

Titanium gear + copper pinion = shredded copper pinion, broken blade grips, lower hubs, upper hubs
Steel gear + copper pinion = shredded copper pinion, broken blade grips, lower hubs, upper hubs
Aluminum gear + copper pinion = shredded gear, broken blade grips, lower hubs, upper hubs

You should get the general point I'm making? If a part is "indestructible" the damage that part would normally take has to transfer somewhere else. The inner shaft gear is one of the most common parts to be damaged in a crash, but it's also one of the cheapest to replace. You can buy them 10 at a time from Deal Extreme for $3.80 a piece. I'd much rather pay $3.80 to replace an inner shaft gear than have to replace a set of blade grips or hub. Especially considering how much easier it is to get to the inner shaft gear.


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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/11/2009 4:54 PM   
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Well yeah I get that.....reinforce one thing and you just move your problem. And I guess copper is better than steel. (I thought it was plated)

But it still seems a little disproportionate, materials-wise. But hey, what do I know...

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