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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/12/2009 3:19 AM   
pgroom_68


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: barak1001
quote:

ORIGINAL: pgroom_68
Does anyone know WHEN the Lama4 4in1 was first put into the Lama3?

I'm unsure as to what you're referring to as a lama v3 4n1 vs a lama v4 4in1. They are the same exact unit. The newer units have pins soldered in for channels 5 and 6, but they are functionally identical to the units before them.

Hey again Tony,

The 4in1 that used to be in these Lama3s had just one adjustment pot on the side. Now they are identical. Just interested to know when Esky saw the light - that's all! Also, my Dauphin seems to have the best use of these units. Apart from ev'rything else, it has banks of pins on the starboard side for wiring lights as you know!

Peter

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/12/2009 11:04 AM   
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Well that was a frustrating night.

Where to begin. Tried to change out my main lower shaft last night. Had to COMPLETELY dismantle the machine. The screw in the locking collar would not come out. I did finally get the collar off, but sufficed to say it involved a hammer. Once i did get it off, I just barely managed to get the screw out using needle nose pliers. But it destroyed the threads. They were completely galled. I've never touched this screw before. So it came from Esky like that.

I intend to use my spare locking collar that is used at the very bottom of the assy that holds the lower gear. Should work I think even if it is a little taller.

Other question. I noticed that I think I need to shim that shaft downward. If I install the shaft as high up as it will go, the pinion and gear only barely engage. To ensure engagement, I need to shim the gear downward about .06"-.070"....or shim the motor upward. But I don't want to mess with the weight and balance of the heli. Anyone ever had this issue before?

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/12/2009 12:13 PM   
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The shaft has a copper collar on it that should have a slightly raised middle. The raised part goes up on the shaft. This is what gives it the right height and what the bearing rides on.

I wouldn't use the locking collar from the inner shaft gear. If you look at the original locking collar it also has an indentation that points downward. This is what the upper bearing rides on.

For anyone else out there trying to remove a locking collar, they thread lock them at the factory. Easiest way to get one off is to heat the screw for about 30 seconds with a soldering iron and then remove it. Other option is to TIGHTEN it slightly using a pair of pliers on your screwdriver while applying force on the back of it with your hand. Then remove it.

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/12/2009 12:16 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: pgroom_68
Hey again Tony,

The 4in1 that used to be in these Lama3s had just one adjustment pot on the side. Now they are identical. Just interested to know when Esky saw the light - that's all! Also, my Dauphin seems to have the best use of these units. Apart from ev'rything else, it has banks of pins on the starboard side for wiring lights as you know!

Peter

As far as I know they've been using the current model of 4in1 with all the extra pins for about 5 or 6 months. The one with proportional and gain has been in circulation for more than a couple of years.

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/12/2009 12:42 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: barak1001

The shaft has a copper collar on it that should have a slightly raised middle. The raised part goes up on the shaft. This is what gives it the right height and what the bearing rides on.


You mean to align the gear and the pinion? Then mine wasn't assembled correctly, because there's nothing. It's the gear/shaft assembly, and it is/was able to right up the the bottom of the chassis of the helicopter....and it's not like I lost the part...that's how it was before I started taking it apart.

quote:

ORIGINAL: barak1001
I wouldn't use the locking collar from the inner shaft gear. If you look at the original locking collar it also has an indentation that points downward. This is what the upper bearing rides on.


Soooo....if this part is something that often needs replacement, and they loc-tite the screw, they really should use a proper set-screw with a socket/allen head, as opposed to an itty-bitty philips head screw.

quote:

ORIGINAL: barak1001
For anyone else out there trying to remove a locking collar, they thread lock them at the factory. Easiest way to get one off is to heat the screw for about 30 seconds with a soldering iron and then remove it. Other option is to TIGHTEN it slightly using a pair of pliers on your screwdriver while applying force on the back of it with your hand. Then remove it.


Now you tell me. This "hobby" is becoming more trouble than it's worth. ( But thanks for the info)


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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/12/2009 1:06 PM   
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Well I jsut asked the supervisor in the machine shop here at work to make me a few shims. Aluminum will have to do. I was going to get him to make me a new collar too, but he doesn't have tooling small enough. (Which is why he's so popular with the ladies I guess)

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/15/2009 11:39 AM   
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Hey MM,

For all your Esky RC hobby needs try:
www.helitek-rc.com
www.UShobbysupply.com
www.helipal.com
or....
have a look at this forum link where they list & discuss Canadian LHS and ebay Canada stores
If you need original (OEM) parts you may have to get them from HongKong here or try here- and wait a longer lag time
I hope you find the parts you are looking for local to you 'cause you can double the price with shipping from the other side of the world (and I should know )!


Peter

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/19/2009 5:41 PM   
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So yeah.....can I shorten my antenna wire at all? What's the downside to doing this?

I have the antenna tube for my Xtreme landing gear but I'm not installed it yet as I'm afraid to shorten the wire.

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/19/2009 5:42 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: pgroom_68

Hey MM,

For all your Esky RC hobby needs try:
www.helitek-rc.com
www.UShobbysupply.com
www.helipal.com
or....
have a look at this forum link where they list & discuss Canadian LHS and ebay Canada stores
If you need original (OEM) parts you may have to get them from HongKong here or try here- and wait a longer lag time
I hope you find the parts you are looking for local to you 'cause you can double the price with shipping from the other side of the world (and I should know )!


Peter


i didn't see this response earlier....yeah I've bought a couple of things from that Ebay store.....Thanks for the info


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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/19/2009 7:21 PM   
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You don't want to cut the wire. You can on the other hand coil the wire without worrying. Just coil it around your tube (or a straw) making sure not to overlap that wire. You also need to leave about 3 to 4 inches of straight wire after the coils.

If you do it this way you'll wind up with a "base loaded" antenna. Which will only reduce your range by about 15%.

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/19/2009 7:43 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: barak1001

You don't want to cut the wire. You can on the other hand coil the wire without worrying. Just coil it around your tube (or a straw) making sure not to overlap that wire. You also need to leave about 3 to 4 inches of straight wire after the coils.

If you do it this way you'll wind up with a "base loaded" antenna. Which will only reduce your range by about 15%.



Ok thanks

So what's the point of the fancy antenna tube then? Do you just tape the wire down once it's coiled or something?

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/19/2009 8:39 PM   
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You can use an actual coil (a electronics part that has tiny copper wire wound extremely tightly) with the antenna tube to make a base loaded antenna that's less of an eye sore. The problem of course being selecting the right sized coil and the right amount of wire to leave hanging after the coil. If you decide to use a coil instead of wrapping it, you can cut your antenna wire (since the coil itself replaces the length of the wire). I tried both options and found that wrapping the wire by hand worked just as well as using the coil part.

As far as holding the ends, easy way to do it is to drill a hole in the tube large enough to put your wire through, then feed the wire from the inside through the hole, coil the wire, and drill a hole the same way at the opposite end. When you've got about 4 inches of wire left, drill the hole at that point and put the left over antenna wire inside the tube. You can then tape it off using electric tape (which comes in various colors) or you can heat shrink both ends. Whatever method you choose, since the wire is through the holes it will never loosen up.

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/19/2009 9:10 PM   
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Oh cool....good idea....maybe I'll play with that tonight.........

Thanks again

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/20/2009 5:19 PM   
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Ok at the risk of sounding like an idiot..... I've done some searches but I'm not finding anything. The link that connects the flybar to the upper rotor....is that somehow adjustable? And if it is, why would you adjust it?

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/20/2009 6:31 PM   
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You just disconnect either end of the link and then spin the end in order to adjust it in or out. It has to be adjusted so that the flybar is parallel to the blades.

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/21/2009 4:19 PM   
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Ok....well I think I've got it trimmed pretty well now....except for one thing. Altitude/rotor speed. The tiniest input from my left stick...like one "click" on the detents will make it rise or drop more than a foot.....that seems a little off.

It just occurred to me now. I have the trim "slider" all the way down on my transmitter. Would that affect it? (battery is dead and I'm on kid duty right now so I can't test it right now.

Would the gain in the 4 in 1 affect that at all? From one I've read so far it doesn't sound like it would.

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/22/2009 1:07 AM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: MMike1
Ok....well I think I've got it trimmed pretty well now....except for one thing. Altitude/rotor speed. The tiniest input from my left stick...like one "click" on the detents will make it rise or drop more than a foot.....that seems a little off.
It just occurred to me now. I have the trim "slider" all the way down on my transmitter. Would that affect it? (battery is dead and I'm on kid duty right now so I can't test it right now.
Would the gain in the 4 in 1 affect that at all? From one I've read so far it doesn't sound like it would.

Hey again Mike,

Great that you've got it trimmed out flyin' well!

The trim beside the throttle stick on Tx adjusts the "dead spot" at the bottom of the throttle input - not the amount that you have to give it. If you want to remove the clicks from your Tx so you have a smooth slide to move - you have to undo the four Tx screws on the back on Tx and carefully pry it open. Without unplugging any wires, undo the rachet (it is about a 1 inch long piece of metal, screwed to the surface - surrounded by black plastic components and very obvious) held by a very long screw, and slip a piece of fuel hose (just like is used to hold on V4 fuselage, so you may have to go the LHS and buy a length for $2 if you have a V3) over the bent part - very simple & easy to do! Screw the two halves of the Tx back together and you're done! The great thing is that if you don't like this mod you can reverse it 'cause you haven't broken-away anything!
This mod will make your Tx feel tighter somehow also.

Peter

< Message edited by pgroom_68 -- 3/26/2009 5:34 AM >


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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/22/2009 3:37 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: pgroom_68

quote:

ORIGINAL: MMike1
Ok....well I think I've got it trimmed pretty well now....except for one thing. Altitude/rotor speed. The tiniest input from my left stick...like one "click" on the detents will make it rise or drop more than a foot.....that seems a little off.
It just occurred to me now. I have the trim "slider" all the way down on my transmitter. Would that affect it? (battery is dead and I'm on kid duty right now so I can't test it right now.
Would the gain in the 4 in 1 affect that at all? From one I've read so far it doesn't sound like it would.

Hey again Mike,

Great that you've got it trimmed out flyin' well!

The trim beside the throttle stick on Tx adjusts the "dead spot" at the bottom of the throttle imput - not the amount that you have to give it. If you want to remove the clicks from your Tx so you have a smooth slide to move - you have to undo the four Tx screws on the back on Tx and carefully pry it open. Without unplugging any wires, undo the rachet (it is about a 1 inch long piece of metal, screwed to the surface - surrounded by black plastic components and very obvious) held by a very long screw, and slip a piece of fuel hose (just like is used to hold on V4 fuselage, so you may have to go the LHS and buy a length for $2 if you have a V3) over the bent part - very simple & easy to do! Screw the two halves of the Tx back together and you're done! The great thing is that if you don't like this mod you can reverse it 'cause you haven't broken-away anything!
This mod will make your Tx feel tighter somehow also.

Peter



Interesting. Do most people remove the detents from the "throttle" control. Hadn't occurred to me to do that.

And BTW...what the hell does the Gain actually do? I cranked it back and forth last night and didn't notice a lick of difference......


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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/23/2009 7:14 AM   
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Hey again Mike,

At a rough estimate I would say 75% of people do! Some people don't like the feel of it afterwards and return to "clicks" & some others say "why wasn't I told of this mod sooner - 'cause it's brilliant!" Still others move to after-market Tx (usually computer, or 2.4gHz these days )

The gain DOES work I assure you! In easy terms the proportional changes the rate of rpm of each blade plane and the difference between the torque of plane A & B rotates the helicopter "rudder" movement. Other helis with a rear propeller use the smaller rear propeller to do a similar thing - just in a more complex way! The gain, to which you are refering, adjusts the gyro in the 4in1 that "holds" the tail (when you suddenly up or down throttle for example). If this is to "tight" you get a shudder - sometimes vertically - but most of the time in shimmers to the left and right. If the gain is to "loose" the tail may sway a back & forth, like a fishes tail, as the gyro tries to find center. This is in very simplistic terms - the gyro does other things also - is much more complex than I am explaining!
It is VERY sensitive - I recall turning it 2º and having the gain go from "loose" to "tight" - so I moved it back the smallest bit and it was exact!

Peter
P.S. Tony (barak1001) will have a better idea. He has been flying for a lot longer than I have.
P.P.S I am modding my L3 to have floats for my swimming pool between typing to you and cooking dinner.

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/24/2009 4:16 PM   
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hello
i have had a lama v3 for about a year and it has always been difficult to fly (very unstable).
its been grounded for a while as i had ran out of blades. but i just got some xtreme hard blades yay!
i have recently found out from the v4 forum how to adjust the 4 in 1 and this has helped a bit.
i have also leveled out the swash plate as much as i can cos it was well off from the factory.
but it still drifts from side to side.
i lift off into a hover and it drifts 1 way then the other gradualy increasing its drift
how can i stop this happening?
i have seen vids of the v3 hovering in 1 place with no input from the sticks
please help
thanks

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/25/2009 8:48 AM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: sporsmaal
hello
i have had a lama v3 for about a year and it has always been difficult to fly (very unstable).
its been grounded for a while as i had ran out of blades. but i just got some xtreme hard blades yay!
i have recently found out from the v4 forum how to adjust the 4 in 1 and this has helped a bit.
i have also leveled out the swash plate as much as i can cos it was well off from the factory.
but it still drifts from side to side.
i lift off into a hover and it drifts 1 way then the other gradualy increasing its drift
how can i stop this happening?
i have seen vids of the v3 hovering in 1 place with no input from the sticks
please help
thanks

Hey sporsmaal,

Mine was possibly one of the ones that you saw hovering "hands off"

If it is yawing (rotating) - that is a different set of adjustments which you have to make (incl. rudder trim.), but for drifting it is relatively easy. The swashplate leveling is more important than you know to get it to stop drifting in any direction!

Instructions for adjusting control links
Switch on Tx & CENTER THE TRIMS ON YOUR TX, plug in helicopter battery - ready to fly! This is known as the starting or "home" position.

Raise the throttle taking the heli to a 3 foot altitude, note what direction your heli drifts and land it. Leaving Tx switched on - unplug the heli battery (to stop any accidents with spinning blades ), then
1. If your helicopter is drifting to the left then pop off the portside balljoint (with balljoint pliers, long-nose pliers or just your fingernail) and lengthen the control link - from servo to swashplate - by half a turn by rotating it CCW (and pop the balljoint back on).
2. If it is drifting to the right then pop off the portside balljoint and shorten by rotating CW!
3. If your heli is drifting backwards - adjust the starboard control link CCW to lengthen.
4. If it is drinfting forwards - adjust the starboard control link CW to shorten.
Repeat until your helicopter is hovering well with cyclic trims centred.

Peter
P.S. I said it was easy!

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/25/2009 12:54 PM   
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Ok....I'm not sure if I just had an off night or what....or I'm just become more "in tune" with things.

but last night was just terrible. And now I'm wondering if it's my Tx. I found the controls VERY slow to respond. Everything was really sloppy and in every direction. Nothing was erratic, nor was it consistent. It's not like it was always pulling to the left. It would slowly drift/wander left, then back the other way. If I made no inputs on the controls, it would wander in a slow circle. and small inputs on the controls wouldn't seem to do anything.

This isn't a swashplate leveling thing or a proportional adjustment thing. I realize the air in my basement isn't TOTALLY still...I do have forced air heating. But jeez!

Now I hadn't touched it in a couple of days. But the last time I played with it, it seemed WAY more crisp and easy to control. (And if it matters, I even put fresh batteries in the Tx last night too).

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/25/2009 1:26 PM   
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thanks pgroom
im waiting for the battery to charge atm
i will give it a tweak and let you know
it would be so nice to finaly have it flying stable, cant wait

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/26/2009 2:30 AM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: sporsmaal
thanks pgroom
im waiting for the battery to charge atm
i will give it a tweak and let you know
it would be so nice to finaly have it flying stable, cant wait

Hey again sporsmaal,

Please call me Peter - pgroom is my Father's name

Peter
P.S. Not kidding! His name is Philip.

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RE: Esky Lama V3 - 3/26/2009 2:37 AM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: MMike1
Ok....I'm not sure if I just had an off night or what....or I'm just become more "in tune" with things.
but last night was just terrible. And now I'm wondering if it's my Tx. I found the controls VERY slow to respond. Everything was really sloppy and in every direction. Nothing was erratic, nor was it consistent. It's not like it was always pulling to the left. It would slowly drift/wander left, then back the other way. If I made no inputs on the controls, it would wander in a slow circle. and small inputs on the controls wouldn't seem to do anything.
This isn't a swashplate leveling thing or a proportional adjustment thing. I realize the air in my basement isn't TOTALLY still...I do have forced air heating. But jeez!
Now I hadn't touched it in a couple of days. But the last time I played with it, it seemed WAY more crisp and easy to control. (And if it matters, I even put fresh batteries in the Tx last night too).

Hey again Mike,

Are the Tx batteries new or fully charged? That is the first thing to check. If so, it sounds to me like the top link is not quite right and it is exhibiting a mild form of TBE (Toilet-bowl Effect) This would explain all of the symptoms of your heli at present. Just adjust the top flybar link a couple of half turns out (anti-clockwise) and try it again carefully! (this may cause the blades to be out of balance though so you amy have to add some tape to the lighter (lower) one to even them up again.) If this doesn't fix it adjust the top link more or less - a half turn at a time until it is better...... You can leave the Tx on and heli plugged in while adjusting this link so it won't take that long - just be careful not to knock the throttle up by accident or there will be an ACCIDENT

Peter

< Message edited by pgroom_68 -- 3/26/2009 5:42 AM >


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