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2 meter plans - 1/31/2003 10:50:53 AM   
JetAwithPrist


 

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that would be sweet with a gasser, lots of cheap flying! GW do you think an rcs 180 or 140 would work in a typhoon? I guess it might not have the power to weight ratio.

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2 meter plans - 1/31/2003 5:31:01 PM   
GW



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From: Guntersville, AL, USA
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I do not know much about the RCS engines. I did run across a web-page awhile back where a modeler had modified a Typhoon 2+2 for the RCS.
I would think you would have to keep the weight and size down to about 9lb and 950" to make the RCS work for AMA pattern.


What we need is a ZDZ 35 at 2.5 lbs complete component weight.

Then you would have a power to weight ratio that would be suitable for pattern. Tie a quiet exhaust to it, and fly all day for $2.
That would be nice.

< Message edited by GW -- Jan 31 2003 12:39PM >



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2 meter plans - 1/31/2003 9:30:41 PM   
JetAwithPrist


 

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hey i just had a thought, do you know anyone with a moki 1.35 in a 2 meter pattern ship? You can run straight methanol in those moki's which you can come out to about 5 or 6 bucks with oil. That would certainly be better than 20. I really like my moki 1.80.

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2 meter plans - 1/31/2003 10:12:03 PM   
Camel65



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That would be neat with a moki 1.35. I have owned several 1.8s and run them with a pitts muffler in 1/4 scale caps. TONS of power and 10.75 lb. with a sig cap. I wonder how a 1.8 would work with a pipe :>)!!!! I have no doubts you could get the weight right but still using glow fuel.

I used the cline system on my engines and the tank on the CG. Flawless Performance!! No blubbering and instant throttle response. Wish I hadn't sold them.......

Regards
Bill

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Bill

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2 meter plans - 1/31/2003 10:26:16 PM   
Camel65



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Another positive to the moki line was they were built proof and didn't vibrate too bad. I hard mounted mine and didn't have any problems. Nice and smooth. plenty of room in the widebodys and a 2.10 would probably be enough power....:>)

I know I sound like Tim on TV ..MORE POWER!!

Regards
Bill

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2 meter plans - 2/2/2003 11:05:25 AM   
JetAwithPrist


 

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GW i got my T2K formers today, they look great, thanks. I like the changes you made from the plans.

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2 meter plans - 2/2/2003 11:20:04 AM   
GW



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Thats great, Glad you like them.
I was happy with those changes as well. It makes the bottom half of the fuse prettier, and much easier to build in my opinion.

When you start framing up, and notice any problem areas with the cuts, let me know, so I can make a change to the CAD file.
The last sets I sent out were the modified sets that had more lightening holes, and some formers cut for a better fit.

I think I have the CAD drawing down to a point where the plane is almost like a good puzzle, just find where the part goes and stick it in. No guesswork.

I also put the former identifiers on the last sets. The M formers are not on the former plan sheet, but they are needed none the less. They are the middle box formers.

I think the orientation of the identifiers are correct for the formers, but compare them to the plan sets. There is a top and bottom to the middle formers.

Enjoy and keep us posted on your progress.

I have been meaning to call Ms. Lakin at Gator RC and see if she knew anything about this sudden surge of interest in the T2K. She probably has not sold 10 plan sets in 3 years, and all the sudden she has probably sold 10 in 2 months. Plus canopies,cowls,cores,etc. Dang , she should cut me in on some commissions here.


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2 meter plans - 2/2/2003 11:06:59 PM   
mikehannah


 

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Patternjukie
I am considering building the T2000 and I wondered if it would be possible to get a printout of your CAD modifications so that I can make the components myself .
You will remember that I offered to buy a set of your CNC cut formers but as I live in the UK it was not a goer but this would at least let me make the bird with your improvements.
I am willing to cover the postage and any costs encured.

Mike

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2 meter plans - 2/3/2003 1:47:59 AM   
JetAwithPrist


 

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GW,

The curve on the bottom formers does look a lot more gradual which has to be easer to sheet. F7,8 and 9 middle formers are full height, whereas the plans show a slight taper but i cant see why. I'd imagine you made that choice, it seems to me like having that slight taper vertically in the center section in the tail would only complicate things. The identifiers all look correct to me, and the balsa is great quality. I need to make an order from Gator RC soon and i will put in a good word for ya.

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t2k construction - 2/17/2003 10:15:20 PM   
bokuda



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I'm committing myself here, but I'm hoping this will keep me motivated to complete this project for spring. I've been in r/c for 30+ years and have built many planes from kits and plans. This is my first attempt at an all out 2 meter pattern plane. I plan to post progress reports and comments as I build this plane. I'm hoping my comments will help other newbie pattern builders.

I'm building an all wood T2K. I obtained the fuse formers through Gerald (patternjunkie) Williams. They are of great quality. I found that former F-2 was missing, but it is also missing on the shop drawings that come with the plans. I'm sure whoever scanned the plans to do the laser cutting missed it. It's no big deal; it's a very easy part to make. I made the ribs and all other parts from the plans.

I'm using the book "Building a Pattern Airplane" by Bruce Thompson and Don Atwood as a guide. The Typhoon 2+2 is used in the book as an example of an all-wood plane. There are some differences from the T2K, but the overall sequence and some of the tips are helpful. I'm also using tips/photo's from Gerald's website, NSRCA web site and others as guides.

I'm going to use Troy Newman's elevator set-up which is on Gerald's website. I think it will lend itself well to a built-up fuse with the bulkheads to support it.

One part that I would change in the construction sequence (from the book) is to add the top formers later in construction. At least until after the bottom formers are attached. The top formers are tall and rather fragile and are susceptible to damage while working on the bottom of the fuse.

Attached is a photo of my progress so far. Not shown is the verical stab and rudder which are framed up and sheeted. The horizontal stab is partially framed up, as far as I can go before the fuse is further along. I'll post a photo of them next time.

I have about 4-5 evenings and one full day of time invested so far. So far no big problems.

Dave

Attachments
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Click for fullsize


< Message edited by bokuda -- Feb 17 2003 9:12PM >

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2 meter plans - 2/18/2003 7:00:16 AM   
GW



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Dave,
Nice to see some progress on the T2K.
Framing looks great. I think the idea of posting pics of your progress is a great idea. Might motivate a few newcomers.

Glad you like the former sets.
You are right about F2
The first few sets we had cut were missing this former. Later sets do include this former. For those that have the former set, F2 is just a rectangle piece easily made from1/8" balsa. I think there are only 3 sets without this former in the cuts.

Keep us posted on your progress.


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t2k progress report - 2/19/2003 5:11:12 AM   
bokuda



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Today I got one wing panel nearly ready to sheet. I just have to complete the shear webs around the wing tube and build the servo box.

I started on the wings because I ran into a problem with the fuse. I was trying to use the home-brew Piedmont mount for the Webra 1.45 I'm going to install.

http://piedmontmodels.com/dave_brown_hard_mount_made_soft.htm

I found that the overall length of the set-up is 1/2" shorter than the plans show. I'm reluctant to shorten the cowl and moment that much. So I need to decide what to do; either build an engine mount box or use standoffs of some type. Or spring for a Hyde mount. I've asked for help with this on NSRCA mail list and have several suggestions. Among them is advice not to use the Piedmont homemade mount. Some people have said it works fine, though.

No problems with framing the wing. It's a little tedious trying to get everything perfect, but it will pay off in the end. Especially time consuming was getting the wing tube holes just right so the tube would not bind when installed. Any binding meant the tube was distorted and would not accept the inner tube. It takes a little patience.

Attached is a photo taken just before starting the wing showing the jig set up. I'm building on a luan door in my living room! My workshop is in the cellar, but it's cold down there. Living alone has its advantages.

I'll also post a photo of the wing as I left it for today. If I can figure out how to post two photos I'll attach it here. If not I'll repost.

Dave

Attachments
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< Message edited by bokuda -- Feb 19 2003 1:51AM >

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2 meter plans - 2/19/2003 5:14:00 AM   
bokuda



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Also shown in the previous photo are the vertical stab and rudder which are sheeted and the basic frame of the horizontal stab.

Anyone know how to post more than one photo in one reply?

Anyway, here is the photo of the right wing frame I built today.

Dave

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