Posts: 17
Joined: 1/22/2003 From: Aurora,
IL, USA Status: offline
I've attached a few pictures below, with the cowl removed to make it easier to see things. I molded the gear doors by laminating 1/64" ply on both sides of 1/16" balsa. If I was doing it again, I'd probably mold them out of fiberglass -- I didn't know how to do that at the time I made the doors. In either case, the key is to mold the doors over the cowl before you cut out the door openings.
One thing that made this harder is the fact that the gear is offset to one side. I know some people have taken out the offset. It's there on the real plane, but it doesn't seem to be as pronounced as in the model. You either have to make the gear doors larger to compensate, or offset the doors to one side -- I opted to make them larger.
One resource that I can highly recommend is a book called "Radio Control Airplane Finishing & Detailing: How to create an RC Masterpiece" by the publishers of Model Airplane News. I used that book extensively to learn techniques for creating panels, doors, and other details.
Posts: 48
Joined: 7/8/2005 From: Herzelia, ISRAEL Status: offline
Aircoboy,
I saw your T-34, outstanding job in short time. Do you have any movie to demonstrate the T-34 in action (Fliyng). It seems that the model can be finish in a month of evenings work, that is good. I will build mine with a fix landing gear since the robart retract cost a lot, and it is overhead to the plane with adding point of failure. In addition are U using the flaps for landing?
Posts: 29
Joined: 2/21/2004 From: Abilene,
TX, USA Status: offline
Struck Gold again, I found a copy of my 1959 US Air Force T.O. 1T-34A-1 from when I flew the T-34A 20 years ago. Will have to see the legality of making copies of this Air Force T.O.
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Life is NOT like a box of chocolates, it is more like a jar of jalapenos... What you do today, can burn your ass tomorrow.
Posts: 48
Joined: 7/8/2005 From: Herzelia, ISRAEL Status: offline
I am building right now the top-flite T-34. I start building the stab. I have question regarding the instruction writtn on page 13 step 25. It is written in the manual to "cut 12 1-7/8" (47.6mm) long hinge blocks from the 1/4"*3/8"*36" (6.4*9.5*914mm) balsa stick". The actual space between the ribs is 5.2cm, but in the instruction is written to cut 47.6 mm hinge block. My question to you, If I cut 5.2 cm it can also server of reinforcment for the ribs, can anybody have any suggestion
Posts: 48
Joined: 7/8/2005 From: Herzelia, ISRAEL Status: offline
Hal,
Thanx this is what I was thinking. Just another question, does this balsa stick is used for something else. Because I am afraid that the rest of the stcik is using for something else. If I cut too much it can be missing somewhere else.
< Message edited by raknin -- 12/21/2005 10:22:36 PM >
Posts: 48
Joined: 7/8/2005 From: Herzelia, ISRAEL Status: offline
Hal,
I made some measurments and it seems that blasa stick supply will fit the rudder and the stab. The issue is that top flite manual has to be modified to the right size. Also according to the plans itself it measure 5.2 cm. I am going to report it to top-flite, so maybe the manual is needed to be modified. Thanx any way.
Posts: 17
Joined: 9/4/2004 From: , AUSTRIA Status: offline
Hi,
today I have ordered the kit, the retracts will follow soon (thanks for the infos about them HalH). In the meantime I have to order an engine for the T-34B. One of the favourites is an Evolution 100 (thanks aircowboy). On the other hand I think a Saito 4 cycle would be also a good choice for it. But I really don't know which one should I choose. A few T-34B owners have told me not to use a Saito 100 because I it have to go from a gras runway. The next size is the new Saito 125a. Nearly as light as the 100 and, as far as I have heard, a lot of extra power. Or should I go with a Saito 150, one of the large Saito's. It is heavier then the 125, but a lot of scale models need the extra weight. What do you think about it?
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RE: Top-Flite T-34 - 
RE: Top-Flite T-34 - 
