RE: Top-Flite T34  
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    • All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Scale Aircraft >> RE: Top-Flite T34
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    RE: Top-Flite T34 - 1/8/2004 3:33:41 AM   
    PT21Flyer



    Posts: 302
    Joined: 12/6/2001
    From: Tullahoma, TN, USA
    Status: offline     		Nick,

    I took my wing apart for gluing the sections together and re-measured the recess on the main gear rails and it's 3/16" or a little over. Don't know how you'll ever deepen them. Is there any way you can cut any clearance inside the doors? The cowl is supposed to be flush with the fuse sides. Where are you stationed in the A.F.? I spent four years as an F-4E and A-7D crew chief from '70 to '74 at Mac Dill AFB and Korat RTAFB. Later.

    Jerry

    Oh yea! I was running my ASP .91 with the in cowl muffler and found out if I put my finger over one of the exhaust pipes it would turn up a lot more rpm. So I made press in restrictors for the pipes and now it runs really strong. I guess it needed more back pressure to run right.

    _____________________________

    BIG really does Fly BETTER

    (in reply to NickC5FE)
           Post #: 126

    RE: Top-Flite T34 - 1/8/2004 6:02:20 AM   
    NickC5FE



    Posts: 1380
    Joined: 2/24/2003
    From: Travis AFB, CA, USA
    Status: offline     		Macdill huh, envious i am. I have been stationed here at Luke AFB, AZ for 2.5 years now, and i do love it. Before that i was at Sahw AFB, SC and hated it, i was there for 3 years, and about 1 to 1.5 was in various desert areas. About the exhaust, i was only going to have it come out of one of the pipes anyways, so i am thinking that would be good. I guess i will work at it as good as possible on the doors, i do think i can recess the doors though. Also, what type, and where did you get those connectors for the outer doors! Thanks, nick

    (in reply to PT21Flyer)
           Post #: 127

    RE: Top-Flite T34 - 1/8/2004 1:06:43 PM   
    PT21Flyer



    Posts: 302
    Joined: 12/6/2001
    From: Tullahoma, TN, USA
    Status: offline     		Nick,

    The straps for the doors are just strips of 1/16" nylon. I epoxied a bracket on the gear leg and the door with 1/16" pins through them with a tiny hole so I can safety wire them on. I worked out the geometry for where the brackets go with my computor drafting program.

    Jerry

    _____________________________

    BIG really does Fly BETTER

    (in reply to NickC5FE)
           Post #: 128

    RE: Top-Flite T34 - 1/8/2004 1:39:12 PM   
    NickC5FE



    Posts: 1380
    Joined: 2/24/2003
    From: Travis AFB, CA, USA
    Status: offline     		cool thanks

    (in reply to PT21Flyer)
           Post #: 129

    RE: Top-Flite T34 - 1/8/2004 2:43:25 PM   
    Chris300s



    Posts: 309
    Joined: 12/15/2001
    From: Mount Clemens, MI, USA
    Status: offline     		This is the greatest thread! Last night I went to bed thinking about my air-lines and fuelers... This morning I know exactly where To put them. Thanks a lot!
    I glued in the gear rails last night, I doubled up the rails between W4-W6 because with the CJ retracts I'm going to have to recess them 3/8" if I want the doors to close flush! Tonight I'm going to start boxing in the wells, running the lines, etc. Hey Jerry - want to share your measurements on those slick nylon attatchments?
    I really like the air tank in the center section, I'm planning to use a cylinder w/sequencer to open the inner doors. I'm not sure about having to open up the wing if I've got an air leak though. Any thoughts?
    BTW Jerry - I've got two of those big, red, noisy garage door openers downstairs. Now I know what to do with them.

    Thanks,
    Chris

    P.S. I forgot to mention what a top-notch job you're both doing, your machines look great. I spent half of last night reveling in my fine sheeting job, that is until I saw your doors and hatches.

    < Message edited by Chris300s -- 1/10/2004 6:22:11 PM >

    (in reply to NickC5FE)
           Post #: 130

    RE: Top-Flite T34 - 1/8/2004 3:38:23 PM   
    HalH


     

    Posts: 619
    Joined: 11/25/2002
    From: Madison, WI,
    Status: online     		I have made a large light ply access panel on the bottom of the wing so I can get easy access to the wiring from the wing mounted servos, air lines to the retracts, retract valve,door opening servos, door sequencer, wing tip lights, and the radio receiver.

    Hal

    (in reply to Chris300s)
           Post #: 131

    RE: Top-Flite T34 - 1/8/2004 6:08:09 PM   
    PT21Flyer



    Posts: 302
    Joined: 12/6/2001
    From: Tullahoma, TN, USA
    Status: offline     		Chris300s,

    If I can find the drawings tonight, I'll post them on this thread. Then you can download them.

    Jerry

    _____________________________

    BIG really does Fly BETTER

    (in reply to HalH)
           Post #: 132

    RE: Top-Flite T34 - 1/8/2004 6:16:52 PM   
    PT21Flyer



    Posts: 302
    Joined: 12/6/2001
    From: Tullahoma, TN, USA
    Status: offline     		Here is a picture HalH sent me of his RCV120 engine installation.

    Jerry

    Attachments
    Click to see fullsize image.
    Click for fullsize


    _____________________________

    BIG really does Fly BETTER

    (in reply to PT21Flyer)
           Post #: 133

    RE: Top-Flite T34 - 1/8/2004 7:24:50 PM   
    tomdensmore


     

    Posts: 17
    Joined: 1/22/2003
    From: Aurora, IL, USA
    Status: offline     		Hal,

    I noticed you've built the sliding canopy -- can you provide any details on how you did that? I'm also curious about what you used for the metal trim on it.

    thanks!

    Tom

    (in reply to HalH)
           Post #: 134

    RE: Top-Flite T34 - 1/9/2004 2:48:54 AM   
    PT21Flyer



    Posts: 302
    Joined: 12/6/2001
    From: Tullahoma, TN, USA
    Status: offline     		Chris300s,

    Here are the drawings I made of the gear door links.

    Jerry

    Attachments
    Click to see fullsize image.
    Click for fullsize


    _____________________________

    BIG really does Fly BETTER

    (in reply to tomdensmore)
           Post #: 135

    RE: Top-Flite T34 - 1/10/2004 2:52:21 AM   
    A7Bldr



    Posts: 227
    Joined: 9/25/2003
    From: Omaha, NE, USA
    Status: offline     		Guys, I have 2 questions:
    Are you making the canopy permanent and blending in the plastic canopy edges to the fuse sheeting with filler ?

    What do you plan for cooling air exits on the bottom of the cowl that look good?
    Thanks,
    Jim

    (in reply to PT21Flyer)
           Post #: 136

    RE: Top-Flite T34 - 1/10/2004 4:23:23 AM   
    ir3



    Posts: 24
    Joined: 12/13/2002
    From: West Hills, CA, USA
    Status: offline     		Jerry,

    Great thread on the T-34. Which Valve from Ultra Precision did you get. They have several models with various sequencing options. This thread is so long that it is difficult to get all the good info out of it. I know this is repetition but if you could post the part number of the valve it would be appreciated. If anyone knows the exact sequencing of the doors could you please post. Also, has anyone thought of using one of the sequencing UP valves with an air cylinder on each door. The cost is higher but the opening and closing of the doors can be simulated more accurately. If anyone has some thoughts, please post.

    ir3

    (in reply to A7Bldr)
           Post #: 137

    RE: Top-Flite T34 - 1/10/2004 4:47:42 AM   
    PT21Flyer



    Posts: 302
    Joined: 12/6/2001
    From: Tullahoma, TN, USA
    Status: offline     		js,

    I'm making the canopy and the cockpit kit removable for better access to the radio gear. The scale exhaust attenuators and whatever leaks there are around the nose gear doors will be my cooling exits. I'm going to build baffles inside the cowl to direct all the air past the engine cylinder.

    ir3,

    I'm using the ultra precision valve (I think it's the UP-2) that opens the inboard doors when the gear is in transit and the closes them when the gear is either up or down. It's just like the inboard doors on a P-51 Mustang. I'm using a single air cylinder through a bellcrank in the wing center section to actuate both doors at once.

    Jerry

    < Message edited by PT21Flyer -- 1/9/2004 10:57:50 PM >

    _____________________________

    BIG really does Fly BETTER

    (in reply to ir3)
           Post #: 138

    RE: Top-Flite T34 - 1/10/2004 2:52:12 PM   
    HalH


     

    Posts: 619
    Joined: 11/25/2002
    From: Madison, WI,
    Status: online     		I have posted some pictures of the parts I used to make the sliding canopy and of the actual installation in my gallery. I used a piece of Plastistruct rectangular tubing for the canopy rail. (1/4"X3/16" I cut a slot in one 1/4" side with a dremel saw. I put pieces of 3/16" "H" beam inside the rails to provide the portion that attaches to the inside of the canopy. The fit of the parts will determine the ease of opening/closing of the canopies. The middle canopy must be trimmed and glued to the rails. The front and rear canopies must pass over the center section. I also made a fiberglass extension to the rear turtledeck to form the area behind the rear canopy. The picture shows this. I will try to answer any questons vis private messages.

    Hal

    < Message edited by HalH -- 1/11/2004 8:19:26 PM >

    (in reply to tomdensmore)
           Post #: 139

    RE: Top-Flite T34 - 1/10/2004 3:08:31 PM