Posts: 3
Joined: 9/16/2003 From: paloshills,
IL, USA Status: offline
i am building the t-34 myself just starting on the tail feathers. i was wondering if you knew where i can get some info on a sliding canopy for the 34.
Posts: 1445
Joined: 2/24/2003 From: Travis AFB, CA, USA Status: offline
Hey PT-21, Check it out, this pic is from today. Got the wing mounted and all internals in. It is covered in spackle right now (after the pic was taken). I love this plane! Nick
Posts: 1445
Joined: 2/24/2003 From: Travis AFB, CA, USA Status: offline
hey tailskid,not trying to say my roomate or i are alchoholics, but man........we just neer change the garbage! just joking. My roomate really is an alchy! Heres the other side of the garage! Nick
Oh PT- got the plane semi fiberglassed tonight, will finish as time permits!
Posts: 51
Joined: 7/28/2003 From: The Villages,
FL, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: pantherflyr
Hey PT-21, Check it out, this pic is from today. Got the wing mounted and all internals in. It is covered in spackle right now (after the pic was taken). I love this plane! Nick
Nick.....which cowl did you use on your georgeous plane, the one in the kit or did you go fiberglass?? I am not at that point yet but want to have plenty of lead time in the event I need to order one. Thanks for your posts, I'm, loving it !!!
Posts: 1445
Joined: 2/24/2003 From: Travis AFB, CA, USA Status: offline
I used a fiberglass one from fiberglass specialties, it is awesome, and totally worth not having the headache of that p.o.s platic thing. I am cutting the motor access hatches ainto it and with the f/g version, it will be easy. Thanks for the praise! Nick
Oh heres a pic from today (plane in f/g), and a pic of the cowl
Posts: 309
Joined: 12/15/2001 From: Mount Clemens,
MI, USA Status: offline
I've finally got my home computer working properly so here's some photo's of mine. Moki 1.35 powered, covered in Flite-Metal. It'll be a T-34B, civilianized in Julie Clark's !QUOT!American Spirit!QUOT! scheme. As an air show machine it has:
Thanks to this thread it's become even more complex, with the scale hinges, baggage door, rudder fairing, wing hatch, flaps, retracts... Honestly, this thread has helped keep my installation very clean. Thanks a lot.
With the air-tank, UP-2 valve and 4 electrical systems (not including radio) in the wing, I had to make an access panel. This one's on the top of the wing where you won't be able to see it. If you look closely, you'll see my notes on the connectors that will come through the hatch (it's written on the hatch). I can't keep it straight, so I had to plot it out in an Excel flow-chart. The Nav. lights and rotating beacon are on a manual switch (inside the baggage door) that also arms everything else. The landing lights have a microswitch that is activated by the retact valve, when the gear is down, the lights are on. The smoke cannisters, strobe lights and landing lights are activated by an electronic switch. The "airshow" switch also activates the smoke pump. There's a diode to prevent the landing lights from "back-feeding" the system when the gear is up and the "airshow" switch is on. I bought my retracts from Doc yates (who inherited them with a Bonanza project), they've got a 90deg. nose gear so I had to modify the mount to get the gear in the right location. I had to cut the gear rails and angle them up from the firewall at 7 deg. The baggage door will house the radio switch, electronics switches, Schraeder valve and pressure gauge. I'm hoping that the switch location won't cause interference, It hasn't yet but we'll see. My gear bays are laid out just like Jerry's photo's. The outlines on the bottom skins are not glued to the ribs or spars. After the wing is fiberglassed, I'll cut them free and have gear door with the proper curvature. Again, thanks for the great thread, it's made things a lot easier.
Chris
< Message edited by Chris300s -- 1/25/2004 10:35:59 PM >
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RE: Top-Flite T-34 - 
