RE: KMP Beaver: Just started, looking for feedback

RE: KMP Beaver: Just started, looking for feedback
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Logged in as Guest

Users viewing this topic: none

Printable Version

All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Seaplanes >> RE: KMP Beaver: Just started, looking for feedback Page: << < prev 1 [2] 3 4 next > >>

Login

Message

<< Older Topic Newer Topic >>

RE: KMP Beaver: Just started, looking for feedback - 3/7/2007 6:44:50 PM

butlern

Posts: 277
Joined: 5/14/2003
From: Iowa City, IA, USA
Status: offline

trying to upload the file again...

Attachments

Click to see fullsize image.

Click for fullsize

< Message edited by butlern -- 3/7/2007 9:18:13 PM >

(in reply to butlern)

Post #: 26

RE: KMP Beaver: Just started, looking for feedback - 3/7/2007 6:47:17 PM

butlern

Posts: 277
Joined: 5/14/2003
From: Iowa City, IA, USA
Status: offline

Hopefully that image (above post) is legible.

Here is the description:

I think that if you use the measurements on the drawing, your Beaver will have the proper incidence and location of the float step. But, make sure you get an incidence meter to verify this.

1) The forward strut is stock and should be used (attached to the fuse). The brackets for the 1st strut should be mounted 90 mm from the outer-most molded edge of the servo hatch (see drawing).

2) Find the supplied aluminum bars that measure 246mm (center-to-center of pre-drilled holes). These will serve as the 4th struts. These struts are longer than those originally intended for this location. By using them in the 4th position, you effectively jack-up the back of the plane relative to the top of the floats, thereby decreasing the wing incidence. Mount the brackets for the 4th struts 70 mm from the rear of the servo hatch (see drawing).

3) Now mount the brackets for the 2nd and 3rd struts as indicated on the drawing.

4) Go to Menards/Home Depot/Lowes and purchase a length of aluminum flat stock that closely matches the supplied material. Mark/punch the location and then drill the holes for struts 2 and 3 on the bar you just purchased (measurements on drawing). After the holes are marked/drilled, cut the flat stock to length, leaving about 3/8” of material beyond each hole. Round the ends with a file (to basically match the shape of the supplied material).

5) Mount the supplied brackets to the bottom of the fuse, and then attach the floats to the plane using the supplied (1 and 4) and new (2 and 3) struts. When you put a level on the top of the floats, the incidence of the wing (very near the root, close to the fuse) should be about 2.5 degrees, and the step should be about 1 inch behind the CG (80mm from the leading edge of the wing).

As long as you are in the range of 1.5 to 3 degrees on the incidence, and the step is 0 to 1.5 inches behind the CG, your plane will fly fine.

Hope this is helpful.

My plane flys great with this set-up. I also added some aluminum angled pieces between the struts (photos in previous post (#12)) to help strengthen the rigging up a bit more. But I think they add a lot to the overall appearance.

Noah

< Message edited by butlern -- 3/9/2007 2:30:31 PM >

(in reply to butlern)

Post #: 27

RE: KMP Beaver: Just started, looking for feedback - 3/8/2007 4:42:57 AM

Warbird Man

Posts: 251
Joined: 9/3/2004
From: Hortonville, WI, USA
Status: offline

SSW,

I'm in the process of installing a Zenoha G-26 on a KMP Beaver. I didn't go with a Bisson inverted wrap around on mine because the muffler is too wide and would require cutting out the bottom and sides of the cowl pretty good and atleast 1/2" spacers behind the engine mount to get the muffler to clear the firewall. I have a setup like that on my P-6E and it still stuck out the sides of the cowl bottom being as big as it is. Part of the problem with the wrap around inverted muffler on the G-23/26 is the mag housing behind the cylinder. The muffler drops down farther than normal to clear it. It can be done depending on how particular you are with cutting up the cowl.

I'm trying to come up with a custom setup using a G-23 muffler and 1/2" copper piping and fittings to route the exhaust down and out the right side at full scale exhaust exit location.

Or you can use a B&B muffler or the stock G-26 one but it's going to look ugly sticking out the front side of the cowl.

The G-20 muffler would fit in the cowl with only the pipe sticking out the front side but then there is a problem with installing the cowl over the engine with the muffler and carb attached unless you modify the muffler and change the exit pipe location to the side and down and out like the G-23 muffler.

quote:

ORIGINAL: ssw

Good info here. I just ordered a Z....G26 for my KMP Beaver and want to put a Bisson muffler on it. Is there enough room for a wraparound pitts style with the flat firewall or will I need the inline straight down style muffler?

Steve

_____________________________

Warbird Man

(in reply to ssw)

Post #: 28

RE: KMP Beaver: Just started, looking for feedback - 3/8/2007 12:57:57 PM

ssw

Posts: 34
Joined: 12/30/2002
From: Tallahassee, FL, USA
Status: offline

WM- I was afraid this would be the case. There doesn't appear to be much room to work with. I'd like to see any pics you have with your final set up. I like the idea of a single scale exhaust stack. Thanks for the info.

Steve

_____________________________

Wherever you go, there you are.

(in reply to Warbird Man)

Post #: 29

RE: KMP Beaver: Just started, looking for feedback - 3/9/2007 1:40:06 AM

Warbird Man

Posts: 251
Joined: 9/3/2004
From: Hortonville, WI, USA
Status: offline

SSW, Here are some pics to look at.

There is a pic with a G-26 w/ bisson inv. wrap on a G.P. P-6E. If you look close enough you can see where I had to cut out the cowl to clear the muffler.

I also have a shot with a G-26 w/ a G-23 muffler modified on my DR-1 to show the pipe going straight down.

And a few shots of the beaver with a G-26 installed with cowl on and with the piping out the right side of the plane. I haven't soldered it up yet but you can get the idea. I don't yet know if the silver solder will hold up against the exhaust temp so it may have to be brazed together. You can also see the G-23 muffler was modified slighty by a hammer to clear the cowl.

The copper adds about 3-1/4 oz.s of wieght. Again this is an experimental idea.

If noise restriction is not a problem, B&B does have a G-23/26 header pipe that also could be used.

I wish they made 1/2" 90 and 45 degree elbows in aluminum like the copper fittings. One could really go to town making light wieght custom exhaust systems. Coming up with a exhaust system that fits in cowl always seems to be a problem.

Attachments

Click for fullsize	Click for fullsize	Click for fullsize	Click for fullsize
Click for fullsize	Click for fullsize

_____________________________

Warbird Man

(in reply to ssw)

Post #: 30

RE: KMP Beaver: Just started, looking for feedback - 3/9/2007 2:02:07 AM

Warbird Man

Posts: 251
Joined: 9/3/2004
From: Hortonville, WI, USA
Status: offline

One thing I forgot to note:

On my beaver, The chin scoop on the bottom of the cowl did not sit perfectly at the 6 o'clock position with the side paint stripes aligned up. (Not a big deal for me as I'm repainting / recovering the plane.)

_____________________________

Warbird Man

(in reply to Warbird Man)

Post #: 31

RE: KMP Beaver: Just started, looking for feedback - 3/9/2007 12:55:05 PM

ssw

Posts: 34
Joined: 12/30/2002
From: Tallahassee, FL, USA
Status: offline

WB- Nice pictures. Interesting muffler modification. Let us know how it holds up under the heat. I like that it all fits inside the cowl and has a single exit point. I looked at the B&B header pipe and I think your right about it being loud. Not much to it, but it sure is simple and straighht forward. Let's see that float installation.

Steve

_____________________________

Wherever you go, there you are.

(in reply to Warbird Man)

Post #: 32

RE: KMP Beaver: Just started, looking for feedback - 3/9/2007 2:25:02 PM

magyarbacsi

Posts: 394
Joined: 11/16/2003
From: Seattle, WA, USA
Status: offline

If you're using solder on the copper joints, it wont hold up against he exhaust heat. U have to use the copper weld. It is similar to application as solder, but takes about 1200 degrees to melt. Mep gas will work on it.

I have tried the alumaweld rods and it work sometimes. Some failed due to heat and vibration and cracked along the joint

(in reply to ssw)

Post #: 33

RE: KMP Beaver: Just started, looking for feedback - 3/9/2007 10:01:35 PM

Warbird Man

Posts: 251
Joined: 9/3/2004
From: Hortonville, WI, USA
Status: offline

I do plan on brazing the pipes together. I picked up a small oxy/mapp torch kit for $50.00 at Menards that should do the trick.

SSW, I'll post some float pics in the near future. Still working on recovering the wings and such. I too didn't care for the original wing install method KMP had. ( the rubber band and sheet metal screw(s) don't cut the mustard ) Had to do alittle modifying there too as suggested earlier in this thread.

_____________________________

Warbird Man

(in reply to magyarbacsi)

Post #: 34

RE: KMP Beaver: Just started, looking for feedback - 3/9/2007 10:10:07 PM

butlern

Posts: 277
Joined: 5/14/2003
From: Iowa City, IA, USA
Status: offline

RE: wing attachment

I got rid of the metal locator pins that KMP supplied and used 1/4 x 20 threaded rod, cut to length and epoxied into the wing. I used wing nuts over neoprene washers to hold it all together. It's very secure, never vibrates loose, and assembles and disassembles quickly using the hand-tightened wing nuts.

(in reply to Warbird Man)

Post #: 35

RE: KMP Beaver: Just started, looking for feedback - 3/12/2007 4:11:07 AM

manix

Posts: 32
Joined: 9/11/2002
From: guatemala, GUATEMALA
Status: offline

Hello,

The look of the Beaver is hard to beat, no Q about that...

I'd be interested to read about its flying qualities.
Hope some of you share your experiences.

Tks

(in reply to butlern)

Post #: 36

RE: KMP Beaver: Just started, looking for feedback - 3/20/2007 9:17:37 PM

butlern

Posts: 277
Joined: 5/14/2003
From: Iowa City, IA, USA
Status: offline

Manix,

I have already commented on flying this plane (above), but I'll just reiterate one important point... you'll need to use the rudder! Compensating for engine-torque during take off will of course require some right rudder input. Once in the air, you should be making coordinated turns with aileron and rudder. Flaps are very effective and allow for very gentle and slow landings. Control your decent rate for landing with throttle. You should only need a little bit of elevator during the flair.

It's not difficult to fly the Beaver, it's just easier when you're accustomed to flying with rudder input.

Hopefully someone else will jump in and share their experiences. In my opinion, this plane flys great. I have not had any problems and it's easy and fun to fly.

Good luck.

Noah

(in reply to manix)

Post #: 37

RE: KMP Beaver: Just started, looking for feedback - 3/29/2007 12:59:18 AM

thinwing

Posts: 417
Joined: 5/15/2006
From: elk grove, CA, USA
Status: offline

couple of other points....on my kmp beaver....controll horns (plastic 2 screw pinch tupe)totally eliminated.....used carbon fiber horns used on jets...these are hysoled into slots drilled into wing/flap/ele hard points...good for200 mph plus...no ugly backing plates....earnst h20 rudders/proctor pullys work fine....if they bind its due to lower button head screw...too tight....or molding distorted...get new ones...engine....evoulation 26/35 seems to fit cowl best....35 for higher alt lakes.../ft windshield...dont use supplied screws...use any good white/canopy glue...much cleaner install and h20 proof when cured....side windows go in good w/omni/goop into small syringe for tiny non/sloppy bead/1.5-3 float inc to wing inc fine...step position not that critical....1in either side of c/g/servos...digital/mg/65-80 oz fine...im using hitec mgs...very little gearbacklash....good value/im using twin lipos w/regulators....light and c/g good with heavier evo 35/19/10 carbon fiber prop......sinc kp couch

(in reply to butlern)

Post #: 38