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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> IMAC >> batteries and electronics
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batteries and electronics - 5/7/2006 11:04:16 PM   
xxsnookxx


 

Posts: 152
Joined: 2/13/2006
From: miami, FL, USA
Status: offline
i am building my first imac plane and would like some suggestions on batteries and electronics .i am using jr 8411sa on all except throttle 3241sa .was thinking 2 fromeco 2400 with reg. jr match box on elevators..i am also using a 26gt evo so i would like to stay as light as possible oh ya by the way its a QQ 73" yak54 thank you...

< Message edited by xxsnookxx -- 5/7/2006 11:07:46 PM >
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RE: batteries and electronics - 5/8/2006 12:47:27 AM   
sweetpea01



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Joined: 10/21/2003
From: Oak Harbor, WA, USA
Status: offline
No need for matchbox on the elevators, unless your radio doesn't have V tail or something simlar to that mix.

Other than that sounds good. Keep it simple. I like dual batts for the rx just in case and a way to kill the engine, but your plane is a little smaller.



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RE: batteries and electronics - 5/12/2006 1:00:04 AM   
xxsnookxx


 

Posts: 152
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From: miami, FL, USA
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whats the best lightest imac legal kill switch?

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RE: batteries and electronics - 5/12/2006 8:14:28 PM   
Dean Bird



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Joined: 5/4/2003
From: Scottsdale, AZ, USA
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xxsnookxx,

I convert all my ignition units to standard JR connectors so that any battery, switch, regulator, or Ignition Cutoff can plug into it.

I've always used the Smart-Fly Ignition Cutoff. It has a small unit that you include in the line between the ignition battery switch and the ignition unit, and another small unit that plugs into the receiver channel. The two are connected by a fibre optic cable so that no RF signals can travel down the line to the receiver.

I've seen guys use this Optical Cutoff as their ignition switch. The ignition can ONLY be on if your reciever is on and that channel is sending the "on" signal. Seems like a very effective switch. If you run a setup like that, you have to unplug the ignition battery if you aren't going to fly for several weeks because it does draw a little power.

You always need to pay cloase attention to your fail-safe position for the "kill" channel. If you want the engine to die in a fail-safe situation, you have to program the "kill" channel to go to the "off" position for fail-safe.

Let us know if you have any questions or need any other information.

Take care,

Dean

< Message edited by Dean Bird -- 5/12/2006 8:22:17 PM >


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RE: batteries and electronics - 5/12/2006 9:54:40 PM   
Rocketman_



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Joined: 10/15/2003
From: , MA, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: xxsnookxx

whats the best lightest imac legal kill switch?

I use the RCATS RC100 - Electronic Switch $24.95. It is very small and light (weighs 12g/.42oz) and plugs into a vacant receiver channel.
http://rcatsystems.com/electronics/rc100.php

I've used it with PPM and PCM receivers with no glitches or reduction in range check distance. I have no knowledge of whether this one is IMAC legal but RCATS offers another one (RC100FO - Fiberoptic Electronic Switch $34.95) which they say is favored by IMAC contestants.


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RE: batteries and electronics - 5/13/2006 3:29:10 AM   
sweetpea01



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From: Oak Harbor, WA, USA
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I've always used the Electro Dynamics kill switch....similar to Smart-Fly but a little larger.

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RE: batteries and electronics - 6/9/2006 6:06:27 PM   
toprudder


 

Posts: 167
Joined: 10/4/2005
From: Raleigh, NC, USA
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IMAC newbie here. Where in the IMAC rules is a kill switch specified? I have not seen a reference to that.

I'm in the process of building my first gasser, and intend to fly it in IMAC. I like the idea of the fiber-optic setup. I will probably invest in that. For now, I have a traditional manual kill switch, and will program the fail-safe to cut throttle.

(in reply to sweetpea01)
       Post #: 7

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