Posts: 2308
Joined: 10/27/2002 From: Woodstock, GA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: BERUSTY
Beryll issues...
You can order the new "anhedral" stabs from Oxai-USA which may reduce the pitch mix to zero...$250 expect in 30 - 60 days. Yes, I ordered them. The new version uses the stabs in the current stab location...aero-dynamic wonderkind will explain why one generally changes the location to compensate for the anhedral...
Don't know about the "wonderkind" part, but I can explain the anhedral thingy.
On a straight stab, the center of drag for the stabs is straight out from the root. If you use the same location for the anhedrals, the center of drag is much lower. How much lower depends on the amount of anhedral.
My experiment with this was to mount the tube high in the straight, and low in the anhedral. Will it be enough? I suppose we'll know in about a week. Anhedral stabs are funny things. It's funny that nobody could even tell you what they did until a year ago. On anything other than a plane flying the FAI F pattern, it may be more of a liability than an asset. They do have funny characteristics.
Anyway, I checked out Cameron's Beryll in Ocala last weekend. Neat plane. The lack of stiffness concerns me a little, but I'm sure some creative use of depron would solve that. Other than that, looks like a solid flying plane and of course....it's an Oxai. It would be neat to see one with the anhedral stabs.
-Mike
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Team Cool Power, YS Parts and Services, Mercury Adhesives, Dragonfire Customs, owner Custom Airframes of America
Posts: 323
Joined: 2/24/2005 From: Naperville,
IL, USA Status: offline
Beryll issues after 50 flights...
I now have about (50) "Pattern" flights on the Beryll, version 2, with the riveted wings and no former fuselage. A "Pattern" flight is defined as a simulated contest flight, attempting to concentrate with few stops and re-do's. I like the model very much and thought it would make sense to share an odd fuselage issue, my solution and an additional measure I have taken to further improve the fine model.
About a month ago I had the opportunity to fly about (18) flights in a week with temperatures ranging from 44 - 55 degrees. While taking the model apart after the last flight, I noticed an outward "crease" on the right hand fuselage side beginning about where the "B" begins, centered through the word Beryll about 14" long. It looked liked a seam on a sheeted foam core if the bond between the foam and wood failed. The crease appeared to be perfectly straight and there was no evidence of any hanger rash (I have 2 tiny boys...) and other than flying P-07 and F-07, did not recall any odd bumps.
I called Troy Newman, we talked about what it may be, discussed a repair idea and I just took the model from my mini van to the shop where it sat until a week ago. About a week ago, a friend came over to see what I was working on and I finally took the canopy off of the Beryll to inspect the inside. What we found were (2) creases, one along the word Beryll and one across the top right hand side of the turtle deck that upon close inspection on the inside, were located on "seams" of (2) butt glued joints. Careful inspection of the first photo will show a white line as if the cloth was folded...
Not a big deal...really...so how did I repair it:
Troy suggested making a little "woodpecker" device to puncture the cloth on the inside of the fuselage along the crease. The photo shows 1/8" balsa and 3/32 balsa rubber banded along fuselage for shape.
1. Sanded area inside the fuselage with 180 sandpaper. 2. Cleaned area with wax and grease remover. 3. Using the "woodpecker", punched holes all along the seam. 4. Mixed 30 minute Z-Poxy glue and lightly warmed with heat gun AND inside of fuselage. 5. Cut 6" x 2" piece of carbon fiber woven cloth for crease on word Beryll and 1' x 12" 2 oz nylon for turtle deck crease. 6. Using epoxy brush and wooden dowel painted both pieces of cloth on piece of cardboard, removed excess resin. 7. Placed both pieces in fuselage, brushed back and forth lightly heated interior of fuselage. 8. Let cure overnight, removed rubber bands.
Additional bracing:
I have an Oxai-Zeque which is fantastic and in my opinion, is partly due to its' remarkable stiffness, specifically tortionally, between wing and stabilizer. The first Beryll's came with a series of formers installed in the rear of the fuselage. The newest version does not. My orignal intention was to simply add a couple of light plywood formers to connect the rear of the airplane together. What I discovered was that the rear of the fuselage is very strong, it is just that the rear of the fuselage can twist versus the wing tube, at the hatch opening...
So I added (2) Central Hobbies 3/16" carbon tubes from the wing tube to the top of the turtle deck. I prepared the rods, wing tube and fuselage turtle deck edge with sandpaper, wax and grease remover, marked the locations of the tubes and green ZAPED them in place. The fuselage became instantly rotationally rigid. I invested about (15) minutes, weighs just about nothing and went out this evening and flew (3) times.
What did I experience?
Finally, there was just a breath of 55 degree air ( this is Wisconsin) and was fantastic test flying weather. I thought that the rudder was more responsive, the elevator pushes and pulls were more consistent (no stab twist) and the snaps seemed to stop with greater authority. The model "feels" to be more solid. Give it a try!
Posts: 57
Joined: 5/2/2006 From: Port Elizabeth, SOUTH AFRICA Status: offline
Hi
I notice you have the in between version, new wing but old fuselage. Design in new fuselage changed in order to counter some of the minor problems you have encountered. New canopy construction and the addition of a nomex former to prevent the flex you were encountering at the canopy. I must say that I also prefer my first version with the formers in the back of the fuselage.
Posts: 484
Joined: 8/6/2004 From: San Antonio,
TX, USA Status: offline
I find it amazing that with the price tag as it is on these products that there are failures such as the ones you are encountering Rusty. I am not sure how i would handle them if i were the one dishing out the dollars for them.
Posts: 323
Joined: 2/24/2005 From: Naperville,
IL, USA Status: offline
Beryll Flight Reports
Issues when considering the (investment) made...
Chuck,
I believe that the Oxai Models are a value when one considers the total package including the contemporary design, the fit, finish and construction, amount of set-up completed upon delivery, additonal packing crate, airplane covers...
I have owned/had custom built at least (1) model from of the following professional builders Oxai, CA/Hyde, Piorum, Noll, Ten Plus, Hansen, Godfrey and (6) from Dave Guerin. Dave's models have been, by far the most "pilot" friendly and able to be used and flown to their limits as they were designed with little or no maintenance...I have NO time.
The cost to have Dave build a world class model, crate, covers in (6) colors is GREATER than the price of the Oxai when you include the price of a kit (assuming $1,000+ including shipping from were ever to Dave's) and Dave is very busy!
My Beryll is a fine model with a couple of areas one needs to be aware of...not a reason to be disappointed, just an opportunity to make something better!
Posts: 57
Joined: 5/2/2006 From: Port Elizabeth, SOUTH AFRICA Status: offline
Hi Rusty
Well said, I think that if one did not have the oppertunity of owning a kit from Oxai it is difficult to explain the quality of the product. I am now the proud owner of two Beryll's (both 2006 and 2007 versions). Most people seeing the planes at first believe they are composite models and not the traditional construction methods (balsa/foam). In the strive to get the plane as light as possible (4,8 kg) it stands to reason that it will be more prone to hanger rash etc. I friend of mine had a wing failure on a leading composite model a few weeks ago, so all planes and manufactures do have the odd problems. Oxai however are continually striving to upgrade the planes to keep up with the stresses of F3A flying. My first Beryll has over 500 flights and no signs of any problems other than the landing gear plate that took some beating as discussed in one of my previous posts. Also the leading edges of the stabs are taking a hamering because of the ground effect caused by the 22X12 props. Be sure to always fly on debri free landing strips. The kit is worth every cent. Attached find photo of new Beryll gas power fuselage
Posts: 484
Joined: 8/6/2004 From: San Antonio,
TX, USA Status: offline
Rusty, i appreciate and understand your point of view, i realize that at times the end does justify the cost. I am just somewhat amazed that they are not a little more durable. Planes at times are buit TOO light and fragle to not be able to handle 500 plus flights etc in not so perfect conditions.
Not complaining, just voicing some opinions.
I do like the new Beryll gas airframe, very unique and awesome.
Posts: 323
Joined: 2/24/2005 From: Naperville,
IL, USA Status: offline
Oxai Beryll Flight Reports
The new anhedral stabs have arrived in the USA and are making their way towards Wisconsin. I will be flying with Troy NEwman latter in the month and will make sure to have the new components installed for a detailed flight report.
The simple repair to the fuselage side is holding up perfectly, noting that not ONE single person noticed anything in Chicago last weekend. I continue to believe that the 3/16" carbon tubes have reduced the rotational flexibility that the model had and would probably enhance VIRTUALLY ANY laminated fuselage. I have been moving the battery forward about 1/4" per flight for a total of 1" based on other Beryll owner's experiences...the model continues to groove and "lock-in" better...now if I can just fly more patiently...
Posts: 188
Joined: 7/30/2005 From: , NY, USA Status: offline
quote:
I notice you have the in between version, new wing but old fuselage. Design in new fuselage changed in order to counter some of the minor problems you have encountered. New canopy construction and the addition of a nomex former to prevent the flex you were encountering at the canopy. I must say that I also prefer my first version with the formers in the back of the fuselage.
Does anyone have a picture of the fuse with this new former. I believe I must have the original version with the internal truss work but I am also concerned with the flex of the tail section. I have enjoyed flying my Pinnacle so much that I have not bothered putting the final touches on the Beryl until now. The Pinnacle is much more stiff in comparison to the Beryl on this issue.
Posts: 216
Joined: 1/4/2004 From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
i have just ordered a beryll... what sort of control horns, wheels, tail wheel assembly did you use and from which store did you buy them? thanks for the feedback...
Posts: 57
Joined: 5/2/2006 From: Port Elizabeth, SOUTH AFRICA Status: offline
Hi
Attached find the photos showing the former installed behind the rudder servo. As to the control horns ZN Line sells nice aluminum control horns and I used Mk tail wheel with Terta wheels. (also MK ball linkages) Look at my initial post a few months ago that shows the photos. Some people also use the Hyde control horns and they just fit the mount
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RE: Beryll Flight Reports? - 
