RE: Tower Hobbies Nitro TOWER Terror MT .25 RTR  
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All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> RC Monster Trucks >> RE: Tower Hobbies Nitro TOWER Terror MT .25 RTR
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RE: ... - 4/18/2008 9:01:00 PM   
KB_from_VT


 

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From: Jericho, VT, USA
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Thanks. I'll lay low on this thread for a little bit, try to stop being so annoying. I realized I've totally hijacked this thread which was not my intention.

Thanks again BB.

(in reply to BudBud)
       Post #: 1676

RE: ... - 4/18/2008 9:28:43 PM   
BudBud



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From: Salina, KS, USA
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I thought that was what the thread was for! If one of us can help the other, or share some good times, I say go for it! Post away! BB

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Doing my best to fill a 55 gallon drum with broken or worn out R/C parts.... 8^)

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       Post #: 1677

RE: ... - 4/19/2008 1:19:35 AM   
KB_from_VT


 

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Well, things are looking up. I had no problems getting the TT .25 started today when I got home from work. Tuning the LS needle totally helped with off the line acceleration. Still a little bit of fine tuning to happen but I'm getting there. I only ran one tank through it tonight, couldn't help but jump on the grass/dirt for a moment or two. God, no matter what troubles I've had getting this thing tuned it, I LOVE IT.

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       Post #: 1678

RE: ... - 4/21/2008 5:18:39 PM   
kpastier


 

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From: , USA
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ALRIGHT i got my parts in, while i was waiting i modded my stock motor, guess i didnt screw anything up since i got it running!
but the stupid front left dogbone keeps poping out, ive wanted to make this thing 2WD for a while now so started to rip it apart yesterday.
well i didnt get to far, i cant get the axel out of the knuckel, it gets hungup on the bearing it wont push through!
anyone pull these apert i need help!

TIA

(in reply to KB_from_VT)
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RE: ... - 4/21/2008 6:47:28 PM   
madmax93


 

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From: halifax, MA, USA
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I'm not sure how to get the axel out of the knuckle, but when my left dogbone kept falling out, I ended up cutting it in half with a dremel that had an abrasive saw on it.

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RE: ... - 4/21/2008 7:34:37 PM   
kpastier


 

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then what did you do? left it there?

it keeps tearing up the suspention arms when it pops out , the upper arm is neatle half way worn through!

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       Post #: 1681

RE: ... - 4/21/2008 7:37:19 PM   
BudBud



Posts: 2707
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From: Salina, KS, USA
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It will come out, they are almost a press fit where they pass through the knuckle. I take the knuckle off and press the stub axle into a block of hard wood. You can make it a lot easier by aligning that axle U-joint so it is square with the slot in the knuckle. BB

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Doing my best to fill a 55 gallon drum with broken or worn out R/C parts.... 8^)

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       Post #: 1682

RE: ... - 4/21/2008 7:50:39 PM   
kpastier


 

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BB i did! i dont get it, its as if the stub gets a hair thicker aprox 1Cm in cuz it went about that far with little force, then i had to really press it hard and the bearing got stuck to the stub axel in fear of destroying the bearing i pressed it back togeather. ill give it another go tonight.
if i still cant get it its on to the dremmel as much as i dont want to destroy them i want to drive the truck! haha

< Message edited by kpastier -- 4/21/2008 8:07:10 PM >

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       Post #: 1683

RE: ... - 4/21/2008 8:17:33 PM   
BudBud



Posts: 2707
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From: Salina, KS, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: madmax93

I'm not sure how to get the axel out of the knuckle, but when my left dogbone kept falling out, I ended up cutting it in half with a dremel that had an abrasive saw on it.


There is a set screw that holds the axle together, it is the flat ended one in the photo. It needs to be thread locked and screwed tight onto that flat on the axle. This screw also adjusts the length of your axle. If you are spitting out the axle, this screw probably came loose or was never set properly. I also included the screw with the little nipple on it because they go in different locations. That screw has to be tight and thread locked as well, or you wind up with an axle that looks like the above one and you cannot keep a set screw in it! That little nipple has to go into that hole on the stub axle flat. Failing to get it right requires the purchase of a new axle, I was going to try to drill out the stub, but it is pretty hard stuff. I put the proper screws under their locations on the axle.



Now, here is a couple of photos that will help you get the axle out of the knuckle. Start with the set screw like it is in this photo. That will help get the first half of the axle joint through the knuckle. Hold onto the knuckle and press the outside end of the axle into a block of wood.....



Now turn the axle 90 degrees so the set screw looks like this....



And pull the axle through the knuckle. Hope this helps! BB

< Message edited by BudBud -- 4/21/2008 8:27:17 PM >


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Doing my best to fill a 55 gallon drum with broken or worn out R/C parts.... 8^)

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RE: ... - 4/21/2008 8:32:32 PM   
kpastier


 

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AH YOUR THE FREAKIN MAN! haha

i got all the screws and such out im guessing the stub axel wasnt machined properly, the big helper and not sure how i missed it is how you mentioned you can adjust the length viz the grub screw. im just going to adj. the length of the axel and run it in 4wd again. thanks for the help!

(in reply to BudBud)
       Post #: 1685

RE: ... - 4/21/2008 8:40:49 PM   
BudBud



Posts: 2707
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From: Salina, KS, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: kpastier

BB i did! i dont get it, its as if the stub gets a hair thicker aprox 1Cm in cuz it went about that far with little force, then i had to really press it hard and the bearing got stuck to the stub axel in fear of destroying the bearing i pressed it back togeather. ill give it another go tonight.
if i still cant get it its on to the dremmel as much as i dont want to destroy them i want to drive the truck! haha


On the photo I uploaded, there is an axle I toasted by not checking the set screw and thread locking it. I had a hard time getting it out of the bearing as it had some rough spots that you can see in the photo. It took the bearing with it, but the slot in the knuckle caught the bearing. I think I even tapped on it with a small hammer and punch. They are very well designed and will take a lot of abuse without breaking. That set screw with the nipple on it is used at both ends of the long drive shaft between the differentials and on each drive cup on the outside of the differential, front and rear, as well as on all four wheel hubs. It is really important that these twelve set screws are kept tight and thread locked. I bought a truck that had them epoxied in, they would not come loose, so when the front differential needed shims, I had to buy a new case and pinion because the old pinion is not coming out of that case. I am not sure why the front one needed shimmed and the rear one is still running. I would think the rear would wear much faster as it carries the truck most of the time. BB

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Doing my best to fill a 55 gallon drum with broken or worn out R/C parts.... 8^)

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       Post #: 1686

RE: ... - 4/22/2008 2:39:31 AM   
lisasguy4ever


 

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From: bridgeport, WV, USA
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Hey anyone else having trouble with the bearings in the clutch bell totally destroying? I have gone through 2 sets, I have run about 3 gallons of fuel through it, so maybe this is normal or should I be doing some sort of maintance on them. This truck is crazy fast, I have modified the wheelie bar to keep the front end down a bit and made a new mount for it out of some strong plastic stuff we have at work and not broken that yet. I have also broken a few front axles, but I think it is due to the hard bashing I do with it. I am glad I bought this as my first nitro truck, it is so much fun .

(in reply to BudBud)
       Post #: 1687

RE: ... - 4/22/2008 3:20:29 AM   
BudBud



Posts: 2707
Joined: 12/21/2006
From: Salina, KS, USA
Status: online

quote:

ORIGINAL: lisasguy4ever

Hey anyone else having trouble with the bearings in the clutch bell totally destroying? I have gone through 2 sets, I have run about 3 gallons of fuel through it, so maybe this is normal or should I be doing some sort of maintance on them. This truck is crazy fast, I have modified the wheelie bar to keep the front end down a bit and made a new mount for it out of some strong plastic stuff we have at work and not broken that yet. I have also broken a few front axles, but I think it is due to the hard bashing I do with it. I am glad I bought this as my first nitro truck, it is so much fun .


The little .25 turns really high rpm, it is Picco 26 like in that respect. I have been replacing the bearings with Hpi bearings, they are the same dimensions and seem to be of a higher quality. I also bought a tube of ceramic bearings and have used some of them with good luck. The little Terror is a blast to run. I have a lot of nitro cars and trucks, but just for pure pleasure of driving, give me a semi-rough mowed area and a few dips, the truck does the rest. Heck, a plain old sand or fine gravel parking lot is a blast too! Draws a pretty good crowd wherever we go too. It is funny to hear people's speed estimates, 50-60-70 mph. I 70 mph Terror would be impossible to keep wheels down. BB

_____________________________

Doing my best to fill a 55 gallon drum with broken or worn out R/C parts.... 8^)

(in reply to lisasguy4ever)