RE: Tower Hobbies Nitro TOWER Terror MT .25 RTR  
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Tower Hobbies
Enter up to 4 keywords or Tower stock numbers
Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
  Printable Version
       

All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> RC Monster Trucks >> RE: Tower Hobbies Nitro TOWER Terror MT .25 RTR
Page: <<   < prev  74 75 [76] 77 78 79 80 81 82 83   next >   >>  

Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
RE: ... - 6/7/2008 4:38:58 PM   
BigGrump


 

Posts: 267
Joined: 4/3/2004
From: Temple City, CA, USA
Status: offline 		That actually looks good with the "side windows rolled down". Most of my other trucks have the side windows open like that, but on the Terror, I have only opened up the front window moderately, and the rear window, not enough yet. I have been concerned about the strength of the body, because it has to act as the roll bar. From looks of it though, the roof is probably just as strong with the side wondows opened.

I can really tell there is some restriction to cooling when I put the body on. That is why I put the big "Nova" cooling head on. Even though it sticks up a little above the body, engine temps went down at least 40 degrees with it. I have new body posts on the way from Tower Hobbies, so when they get here I am going to lift the body one to two holes higher, just enough to protect the cooling head.

Next thing I am looking at is to install a 2 oz. helicoptor fuel tank inside the rear bulkhead, between the engine and bulkhead. The tank has a clunk inside which will allow the truck to run upside down for 2 ounces worth. I have one on my Savage and it really works good. Gives me pleanty of time to get to the truck when it is upside down before it stalls. I have used that tank for a long time and never had any tuning issues as a result. Only thing is main jet has to be a little more opened, as there is a slight reduction in fuel pressure, but it is still proportional as with stock tank only.

Only other down side is, the fuel tank is in the way of using a roto-starter. I normally don't miss that, as pull starters have generally worked out well for me, but there are times when I like the use of a roto starter. Been thinkin that too, but just more crap to lug around.

Dennis

< Message edited by BigGrump -- 6/7/2008 4:47:07 PM >

(in reply to BudBud)
       Post #: 1876

RE: ... - 6/7/2008 5:48:32 PM   
BudBud



Posts: 2710
Joined: 12/21/2006
From: Salina, KS, USA
Status: online


I did a pretty generous cutting of the back of the cab too, I have several spare bodies, this one came to me decorated with Venom stickers and a couple of Velcro dots. I cut the exhaust opening big enough that it also clears the Axial 32 exhaust.

I gave up on trying to keep a nice head on the Terrors, I get such a kick out of making them leap all over the place, I seem to have a hard time keeping the bottom side down. I am not nearly that aggressive on the blipping of the throttle with anything else, but these little guys.... what a riot! BB

_____________________________

Doing my best to fill a 55 gallon drum with broken or worn out R/C parts.... 8^)

(in reply to BigGrump)
       Post #: 1877

RE: ... - 6/7/2008 9:23:52 PM   
BigGrump


 

Posts: 267
Joined: 4/3/2004
From: Temple City, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Here are some pictures of the 2 oz. tank with a fexilable clunk inside it so it will feed fuel in any position. I ran the truck for 1 tank and it worked perfect. Since I was tuned just a little rich, it leaned out just about right. Ran (on a hot sunny day) 230 degrees.

Turned the truck over and this time took my time in righting it. Ran just under 1 minute, (could have run much much longer but that is how long it took me to get it) could not even tell from the sound of the engine that it was upside down. From the pictures you can see the tank is about 3/16 inch away from the header pipe. I believe this is enough. Time will tell.

Dennis




Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


< Message edited by BigGrump -- 6/7/2008 9:27:52 PM >

(in reply to BudBud)
       Post #: 1878

RE: ... - 6/8/2008 12:32:27 AM   
BudBud



Posts: 2710
Joined: 12/21/2006
From: Salina, KS, USA
Status: online 		I had not seen that done before and find it kind of interesting, especially given how often I put one of these on its lid. I cannot seem to be content just driving one, or even driving one hard, I seem to have to run them as hard as I can and still keep them wheels down. I did twist off another front axle today on the Orion. The Orion video will have to wait for another day. The wind is just howling here, so the audio would be horrible anyway.

How do you plumb that heli tank in?

BB

_____________________________

Doing my best to fill a 55 gallon drum with broken or worn out R/C parts.... 8^)

(in reply to BigGrump)
       Post #: 1879

RE: ... - 6/8/2008 1:00:44 AM   
BigGrump


 

Posts: 267
Joined: 4/3/2004
From: Temple City, CA, USA
Status: offline 		The plumbing is the easiest part. The exhaust pressure tube from the muffler goes to the stock tank where it normally is (at the filler lid). The fuel line exit from the stock fuel tank goes to the top inlet of the 2 oz. tank. The center fuel line at the 2 oz. tank has the flexible feed weighted cllunk attached to it inside the tank. The outside piece of that fitting attaches to fuel line that goes directly to the carb.


The stock fuel tank simply feeds the 2oz tank, and that tank feeds the engine. Simply a inline resivore, no different than a fuel filter.

After a tiny bit of dremmel work on the inside of the bulkhead so the tank would sit as close as possible to it, giving the most possible clearance between the tank and header pipe, it takes about 15 seconds to install the tank using two zip ties, then cutting some fuel line and snapping it on. Total time about 1 minute. Comes off just as easily. only cost is the loss of two zip ties.

Dennis

(in reply to BudBud)
       Post #: 1880

RE: ... - 6/8/2008 1:07:57 AM   
tyson08tyson


 

Posts: 27
Joined: 5/14/2007
From: mitchell, IN, USA
Status: offline 		Was a co-workers dirt track (little Bristol) the other day and was using 2wd only and towards the end the truck sounded like the clutch was slipping. Got it home and blowed it off and tried it again and it was fine. Took the Terror out today and had the 4wd working but it looked like the rwd was slipping, it won't even do a wheelie. Has anybody else had this problem (BB)? is it the rear differential?

Tyson

(in reply to BudBud)
       Post #: 1881

RE: ... - 6/8/2008 3:15:34 AM   
amf66



Posts: 133
Joined: 4/2/2008
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		So BB you think the Sportwerks .26 V2 would be a good engine?

_____________________________

Tower Terror | HPI Nitro Rush
I''d rather be bashing...

(in reply to BigGrump)
       Post #: 1882

RE: ... - 6/8/2008 7:40:35 PM   
BigGrump


 

Posts: 267
Joined: 4/3/2004
From: Temple City, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Had a chance to run the Terror some more today, this time in the street as there was no traffic. Nice warm day, 75 degrees, with Nova head, max temp reached was 225 F. Using 30% O'Donnells car racing fuel. Collari .32 engine, proline 40 series wheels and Big Joe tires, stock 14 tooth clutch bell.

Simply a joy to drive. Pull the trigger like a reasonable person and the truck simply zooms around quickly and handles pleanty good enough. While it can be turned over in the street, it does not take much care to avoid this. Truck is pretty forgeving.

BUT......... There is NO pulling the trigger on full and waiting for the truck to catch up. There will be a wheelie so violent, the back wheels will pop off the ground, and ususlly result in a back flip. Seemed like the most fun to drive it was a moderate roll on from standing start to about 15 mph, then a steady increase in trigger pull. Result is always a smooth wheelie. Any speed between ( i guess) 15 mph and 30 mph there is wheelie any time with just a increased pull of the trigger. There is absolutely no way to drive through the 15 to 30 mph range with the engine wide open. So, the drill is to smoothly pull the trigger until about 30 mph then nail it. Seems to me top speed is about 40-45 mph. Fast enough to make the Big Joes start to turn into Pizza's.

Since I have no way for a video, I have to describe this, but during a wheelstand of about 50 feet the truck started bouncing back and forth sideways a little. I gave it some more gas and one of the rear Big Joes spun up to about a 10 inch Pizza. One of the drawbacks to such a wide soft tire.

Anyway, nothing slipped, stripped or broke this time. I am happy. Now can't wait for my grandsons to come over. They won't dare bring their Revo's..... LOL

Dennis

(in reply to amf66)
       Post #: 1883

RE: ... - 6/8/2008 9:10:32 PM   
BigGrump


 

Posts: 267
Joined: 4/3/2004
From: Temple City, CA, USA
Status: offline
quote:

Was a co-workers dirt track (little Bristol) the other day and was using 2wd only and towards the end the truck sounded like the clutch was slipping. Got it home and blowed it off and tried it again and it was fine. Took the Terror out today and had the 4wd working but it looked like the rwd was slipping, it won't even do a wheelie. Has anybody else had this problem (BB)? is it the rear differential?


I had that happen when my turck was just a couple days old. There is a set-screw through the aluminum wheel hub that locks the hub to the axle. That set screw has a little point on it that goes into a hole in the axle that helps resist the axle spinning in the hub and also locates the hub at the right spot on the axle. When the set screw backs out just a little, the point of the set screw flexes just enough to break it off in the axle hole (impossable to remove later) then backes out a little more and starts to let the axle slip within the hub. When this first starts you can'r really tell what is wrong because it only slips some of the time, but later it spins easier and changes the truck into front wheel drive only.

I know that pin and axle area is a lot weaker than the differential.

However, Bud Bud is really the one you should listen to on this as he has a "ton" more experience with this truck than I.


Dennis

(in reply to BigGrump)
       Post #: 1884

RE: ... - 6/8/2008 9:49:20 PM   
amf66



Posts: 133
Joined: 4/2/2008
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I have just looked over my Tower Terror and have found that the front left dogbone has popped out of the cup that comes out of the diff, how do I get it back into the cup? Do I have to take the wheel off? I really don't want to do that and risk stripping a wheel hub! BudBud i need your help!

Edited to add that I have heard somewhere that heating up the wheel hubs helps them to not strip, is this true?

< Message edited by amf66 -- 6/8/2008 9:59:06 PM >

_____________________________

Tower Terror | HPI Nitro Rush
I''d rather be bashing...

(in reply to BigGrump)
       Post #: 1885

RE: ... - 6/8/2008 10:22:01 PM   
BudBud



Posts: 2710
Joined: 12/21/2006
From: Salina, KS, USA
Status: online
quote:

ORIGINAL: amf66

I have just looked over my Tower Terror and have found that the front left dogbone has popped out of the cup that comes out of the diff, how do I get it back into the cup? Do I have to take the wheel off? I really don't want to do that and risk stripping a wheel hub! BudBud i need your help!

Edited to add that I have heard somewhere that heating up the wheel hubs helps them to not strip, is this true?


Removing the wheel and pulling the top pin at the carrier is the easiest method, I think... That being said, I do not blame you for not wanting to remove the wheel nut as sometimes the threads come with them. You can remove the upper hinge pin at the corner of the chassis, it is just a bolt with a lock nut. The lock nut is very hard to get back in there though. I use a little bit of RTV silicone on a screwdrive tip to hold it in place. Probably the best bet would be to take off the front bumper, two screws, then the inside bumper, two screws, and pull the lower hinge pin out. If fighting the shock starts to drive you crazy, just remove it and install it later.

The axles are adjustable for length and normally when they spit out the set screw has worked loose. Be sure to place it in the drive cup and extend almost complety tight when setting the set screw. Blue thread locker from Permatex or LockTite will help keep the set screw in place.



I twisted another one off with my Picco 26 yesterday. I cannot imagine how that happens as I always drive with the utmost respect for parts.

If the stub end of your axle is twisted off, you will wind up pulling the wheel to replace the axle. Mine destroyed the hub as well and I could not get the stub out of the bearing. I had to replace the carrier, both bearings, both halves of the axle and the wheel hub. Thankfully I had all the parts on hand, I hate having them down for any length of time. This will make about the fifth axle I have twisted off, it is always the front one right at the joint, where the axle steps down to the flat.

I found a heavy dury replacement for the rear dog bone yesterday. A Thinder Tiger EK4 has a much stronger dogbone that is about a 1/16th of an inch longer. 8^) BB

_____________________________

Doing my best to fill a 55 gallon drum with broken or worn out R/C parts.... 8^)

(in reply to amf66)
       Post #: 1886

RE: ... - 6/8/2008 10:29:42 PM   
amf66



Posts: 133
Joined: 4/2/2008
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		What do you mean the inside bumper and how do you pull the hinge pin out?

Edited to ask what do you use to remove the wheel hubs and what is the chance of them stripping? The plastic wrench that came with the truck is proving to be very hard to use!

< Message edited by amf66 -- 6/8/2008 10:34:13 PM >

_____________________________

Tower Terror | HPI Nitro Rush
I''d rather be bashing...

(i