RE: Tower Hobbies Nitro TOWER Terror MT .25 RTR

RE: Tower Hobbies Nitro TOWER Terror MT .25 RTR
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Logged in as Guest

Users viewing this topic: none

Printable Version

All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> RC Monster Trucks >> RE: Tower Hobbies Nitro TOWER Terror MT .25 RTR

Page: << < prev 75 76 [77] 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 next > >>

Login

Message

<< Older Topic Newer Topic >>

RE: ... - 6/10/2008 4:16:14 AM

BigGrump

Posts: 267
Joined: 4/3/2004
From: Temple City, CA, USA
Status: offline

Well, here she is all decked out with the Collari .32, two fuel tanks, 40 series proline wheels and Masher tires (changed from the Big Joes for a different look).

The truck has more speed and wheel popping action than I can handle on the asphalt street.

These Tower Terrors are simply Cool for a 1/10 scale Monster Truck. Nothing but balls.

Dennis

Attachments

Click to see fullsize image.

Click for fullsize

Click to see fullsize image.

Click for fullsize

Click to see fullsize image.

Click for fullsize

Click to see fullsize image.

Click for fullsize

< Message edited by BigGrump -- 6/10/2008 4:26:22 AM >

(in reply to amf66)

Post #: 1901

RE: ... - 6/10/2008 2:32:16 PM

kdiddy93

Posts: 52
Joined: 12/29/2007
From: wilmington, DE, USA
Status: offline

im using the proline max masher tires and the Pro-Line 23mm White 1/2 Offset Standard Maxx Wheel here are the links to them below these tires are also the perfect size they are the same size as stock and look nice

wheels
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKSA9&P=7

tires
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVS54&P=7

< Message edited by kdiddy93 -- 6/10/2008 2:47:24 PM >

(in reply to BigGrump)

Post #: 1902

RE: ... - 6/10/2008 4:11:31 PM

BigGrump

Posts: 267
Joined: 4/3/2004
From: Temple City, CA, USA
Status: offline

quote:

im using the proline max masher tires and the Pro-Line 23mm White 1/2 Offset Standard Maxx Wheel here are the links to them below these tires are also the perfect size they are the same size as stock and look nice

Those are very good tires. I have a set, same thing except not in 23mm, so could not use them on the Terror. I like the way the Mashers work on a combination of surfaces, but the street and high traction stuff they are great. I really enjoy the good traction they have, but allow a little slip in the turns helping prevent roll-overs.

I use mine on a Revo 3.3 with a Picco .26 Max in it. In the asphalt street, we can drive the Revo wide open then make a full lock turn and spin it out and it never turns over.

Good choice.

Dennis

< Message edited by BigGrump -- 6/10/2008 4:17:32 PM >

(in reply to kdiddy93)

Post #: 1903

RE: ... - 6/10/2008 9:58:00 PM

calibus

Posts: 14
Joined: 6/9/2008
From: , NJ, USA
Status: offline

Hi Guys,

I am new to nitro trucks and was wondering if any one can help me? I bought the terror and it arrived yesterday. I broke it in with no problems (only problems are the blisters and burns on my hands). However one my 6th tank of gas I rolled the truck and now it will not go foward. I can start the engine and everything idles properly. I hit the gas and it seems that the engine wants to spin but the gears or shaft is not spinning. I shut the truck off so I would not cause any more damage. Does any one have any idea on what it could be? Plus, the stearing really stinks on this truck. It seems the only way it turns is when your are going fast or when the tires lift off the ground a little.

thanks

(in reply to amf66)

Post #: 1904

RE: ... - 6/10/2008 11:11:46 PM

BudBud

Posts: 2716
Joined: 12/21/2006
From: Salina, KS, USA
Status: offline

The steering servo is probably gone, they were not very good, I had one that never went six feet before it would not turn left.

The drive problem is the engine got pushed down into the spur gear. I have done this too many times... It is a weakness in the design, a blow to the top of the head, pushes the engine down in the chassis and locks up the spur. The fix is easy, loosen the two engine mount screws on the sides of the chassis plate and reset the mesh. I have never damaged the spur or bell, so you should be good to go. BB

_____________________________

Doing my best to fill a 55 gallon drum with broken or worn out R/C parts.... 8^)

(in reply to calibus)

Post #: 1905

RE: ... - 6/11/2008 12:02:05 AM

amf66

Posts: 135
Joined: 4/2/2008
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline

I used BigGrumps idea of putting WD-40 on the wheel hubs and it worked every time! Out of four hubs none of them stripped a bit! I have now threadlocked all of the set and joint screws and did what BudBud suggested with putting a set screw in the other hole on the hub. I also fixed the dogbone and threadlocked the joint screw there! BigGrump, thanks a million for your money saving (no more stripped hubs!) tip!

_____________________________

Tower Terror | HPI Nitro Rush
I''d rather be bashing...

(in reply to BudBud)

Post #: 1906

RE: ... - 6/11/2008 12:16:53 AM

BudBud

Posts: 2716
Joined: 12/21/2006
From: Salina, KS, USA
Status: offline

The engine mount screws are at the upper ends of the oval cut in the chassis. I apologize in advance for the filthy condition of my shelf queen. There will be another pair on the other side. They are they heaviest screws in the truck.

BB

_____________________________

Doing my best to fill a 55 gallon drum with broken or worn out R/C parts.... 8^)

(in reply to amf66)

Post #: 1907

RE: ... - 6/11/2008 12:16:58 AM

calibus

Posts: 14
Joined: 6/9/2008
From: , NJ, USA
Status: offline

BB you are the man.... That did the trick. Thanks for the help. I will call tower about the servos.

(in reply to amf66)

Post #: 1908

RE: ... - 6/11/2008 12:33:24 AM

aleknocker

Posts: 76
Joined: 9/10/2007
From: Nampa, ID, USA
Status: offline

You've got quite the following going, huh BB. With as many as you have you know the in's and out's about everything. I've never really flipped mine on it's lid very often. My problem is end over end cartwheels. Those tear the crap out of things.

(in reply to calibus)

Post #: 1909

RE: ... - 6/11/2008 12:49:50 AM

lisasguy4ever

Posts: 33
Joined: 2/2/2008
From: bridgeport, WV, USA
Status: offline

Hey BB you were right about the ofna .26 engine, the mounting holes are too close together for my mounts. Any ideas on how to fix this, I was thinking of just drilling new holes in the engine so my mount would work. I even asked if the mount holes were the standard for MT, he said yes, what an idiot. I guess I should really check stuff out better before I buy stuff from them.

(in reply to aleknocker)

Post #: 1910

RE: ... - 6/11/2008 12:51:16 AM

BudBud

Posts: 2716
Joined: 12/21/2006
From: Salina, KS, USA
Status: offline

It helps when you have a couple of teenagers driving them too. I drive hard, but there is no loss for them. If they break it, they just go get another one. I do not mind, they are fun to work on and the toughest part is the center carrier, spur, brakes, chassis plate assembly. When you run them as hard as my gang does, you learn by trial and error pretty fast. Somebody needs to come up with a simple throttle mod that does not bind and is easy to set up. I should get to work on that. Sometimes I feel like I post too much, but if I can save somebody the headaches and from buying or breaking parts, I am all for it. BB

_____________________________

Doing my best to fill a 55 gallon drum with broken or worn out R/C parts.... 8^)

(in reply to aleknocker)

Post #: 1911

RE: ... - 6/11/2008 1:13:16 AM

BudBud

Posts: 2716
Joined: 12/21/2006
From: Salina, KS, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: lisasguy4ever

Hey BB you were right about the ofna .26 engine, the mounting holes are too close together for my mounts. Any ideas on how to fix this, I was thinking of just drilling new holes in the engine so my mount would work. I even asked if the mount holes were the standard for MT, he said yes, what an idiot. I guess I should really check stuff out better before I buy stuff from them.

I have not done that before, but I see no problem with it if there is room in the flange. The force will be lateral or side to side except in the event of a lid skid. I think I would use a drill press and vise to make sure the hole was square. BB

_____________________________

Doing my best to fill a 55 gallon drum with broken or worn out R/C parts.... 8^)

(in reply to lisasguy4ever)

Post #: 1912

RE: ... - 6/11/2008 1:15:17 AM

aleknocker

Posts: 76
Joined: 9/10/2007
From: Nampa, ID, USA
Status: offline

Just a thought, have you ever thought about dual servos? You could use a Y connector like I used to use for ailerons. Without that throttle pivot in the way there would probably be enough room. Just a thought

(in reply to BudBud)