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RE: Another Hots! - 6/27/2007 11:26:47 PM   
H5606


 

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Maybe this confusion stems from what I remember, Midwest kitted the original "The Hots" designed by Dan Santich which was a one-piece airplane with the pretty, easy to cover wing tips and then revised and released the Hots II which incorporated a wider fuselage, removable wing, and wing tip plates (aerodynamic fences) thereby making a heavier, more complicated, and less attractive airplane. In my opinion, by listening to the customer, they ruined a perfectly good airplane!

Dave

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RE: Another Hots! - 7/8/2007 3:47:24 AM   
Gray Beard


 

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I had this old Mid West kit and started building it while waiting for parts on another build. Two elevator servos, two aileron servos with A pull/pull that is close to center on the rudder. A YS 1.10 up front and I had to bend my own LG for prop clearence. I have been having so much fun with it I just started the 91 inch Big Hots. Got the plans from MAN for the Big.

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RE: Another Hots! - 10/13/2007 3:44:45 AM   
modegrande


 

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I just recently started scratch building The Hots from a set of pull out plans from Model Airplane News. I have all the main parts cut, but before I start assembly I have a few questions. Is the 1/16 upper balsa fuse sides sufficient? Does everyone mount the servos in the wing? If so what servos are you using? I plan on putting an O.S. 32 with a pipe, is there any issues as far as C.G. goes? I've applied some of the suggestions I read so far in my build any other reccomendations and input would greatly be appreciated.

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RE: Another Hots! - 10/13/2007 4:37:50 AM   
dbacque


 

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1/16" balsa is fine for the upper sides, just be sure to put the square stringers in to stiffen it.

I have a .46 in mine and have the battery as far back as possible plus a little weight on the tail. With the .32 you shouldn't have any CG problems.

I've built 6 of them through the years and always install the servos exactly as per the plans. No problems. But it's a bit of a pain to get to the radio since you have to pull the servos to get to it.

Oh, if you haven't cut the upper fuse sides yet, make them a little oversize on the top edge and in length. When you get ready to install them, test fit and trim to size, then install the stiffening stringers. I never get seem to get the top to come out right if I cut them exactly.

Dave

< Message edited by dbacque -- 10/13/2007 4:39:33 AM >

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RE: Another Hots! - 10/13/2007 2:06:42 PM   
glowplug50


 

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If you have a programable radio capable of fllaps/spoilers then use 2 aileron servos. Much easier to me tham torque rods plus landing with the ailerons kicked up (spoilers) makes for some very short approaches and just adds fun. It doesn't realy need flaps with the fat airfoilf all though I can remember winning a climb and glide using them. Took off for the moon, killled the motor,kicked the flaps in, pointed it into the wind with a little elevator and it will just hang there. Great airplane!

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RE: Another Hots! - 10/13/2007 2:13:06 PM   
modegrande


 

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Thanks Dave I'll do that when I get to that point of sheeting the fuse. On my plans it shows a cutout in the wing leading edge for installing the fuel tank, should I omit that and put in a hatch instead? Between that and the servo cutout it doesn't leave much material left in the center of the wing. I guess once everything is glued together with the fuse it becomes solid. Maurice

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RE: Another Hots! - 10/13/2007 6:53:23 PM   
dbacque


 

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Even if you put in a hatch, I don't think you'd get a tank in there without cutting the wing. But dont make the cutout before assembling the wing to the fuse!!! What happens is that with the angles of the upper fuse sides, it'll fool you into making the cutout too big and you'll have a gap where the upper fuse sides don't meet the wing. Guess how I know that!

Making the cutout after everything is assembled is difficult because you have so little access. That's how I did my second one and I thought I'd never get the LE cut. What I've found to be best is when you first jig up the fuse and wing, mark on the wing where everything will go. Be sure to consider the angle of the upper sides. Take the wing back out and cut the leading edge with a razor plane, but leave some room for mistakes. It'll be easy to cut it back later but making the through cut after assembly is tough.

When the wing is glued to the fuse, start fitting the upper fuse sides. Once you get the saddle trimmed to give you a good fit, mark the upper surface of the wing sheeting where the saddles fit. Now cut out the sheeting back to the spar, but again leave some room for error as well as remembering the thickness of the sheeting and the angle of the sheeting. You just want a start of the cutout, not exact size. When you get the upper sheeting cut out, you can go ahead and cut the bottom sheeting. Fit your tank, now is the time to finish trimming the LE back as far as you need for tank clearance. I use flex tanks because with work I can get it back out. It's a squeeze but with a lanyard around the flex tank I can pull it through the wing opening if I really have to. It's easiest to install the tank now, just make sure you can get it out later if you need to. I've never used a hatch. Now you're ready to install the upper fuse sides.

You're right, with the LE cut out and all the sheeting cut out for both the tank and the servos, there's not much left. But that's how the plane is built. But since it's a one piece plane, that strengthens things up a little. But that is the weak part of the plane. I've crashed 3 of these through the years and every time the wing snaps in two at the fuse. Oh well, they're built to fly, not to crash.

Oh and when you make the cut out for the servos, you're cutting the sheeting out both sides of the wing, top and bottom because the radio gear goes in through this hole up into the "canopy" area. Again, be careful when you're cutting the wing sheeting for this hole too or you may wind up with the upper fuse sides leaving a gap. This hole can be cut after the fuse sides are installed.

Watch the weight on this plane. I've had several and the lighter they are the better they fly. I've seen them built with all kinds of extras, even one with retracts! But every ounce counts on this plane. Keep it simple, keep it light and it'll be a killer plane.

Dave

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RE: Another Hots! - 10/13/2007 8:52:50 PM   
modegrande


 

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Dave,

With all this info maybe I can avoid some time consuming mistakes.

My plan is to keep it light.

-I cut as much material as possible from the formers.
-I used 1/32 ply for the fuse doublers and drilled 1 inch holes to further lighten it.

I was thinking about making the tail feathers built up but I didn't want to go through all that trouble and find out later on that I need to add tail weight to balance it. I made the original tail feathers on the plans instead. I'm having trouble locating the engine thrust line on the firewall as it is not shown on the plans. Is it that critical; or can I just position my motor mount so I have sufficient meat for the tee nuts? As far as engine angle, what do you think would work best with a pipe? Straight or canted to the side a bit?

Thanks,
Maurice

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RE: Another Hots! - 10/13/2007 9:37:35 PM   
glowplug50


 

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A little down and a bit right from the pilots seat.
If your worried about tail weight why don't you just build a hatch behind F3 on the bottom of the fuse and put your elevator and rudder servo behind the wing. Use straight 2/56 wire with the end threaded on one end and pushrod tubes (great planes sells this as others most likely) and cross them over. Mount one of these servos just a bit higher than the other so the cross over is not a bend. Do your best not to put any bends in the wire as this will give you the most positive slop free system. Support it once in the miccle of the fuse and your good to go. Use a quick link on the servo end, one 90 degree bend here and its flex free. The hatch can just tape on to cut down on weight. Make sure to line up the push rod exits with surface horns and sand the tubes flush with the fuse.

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RE: Another Hots! - 10/13/2007 11:07:21 PM   
dbacque


 

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Maurice,

I hadn't thought about the doublers but that's something that I started adding after the first 2 I built. The plane needs them badly.

I've never built one with built up tail surfaces, just used careful selection on the balsa. With the engine that I use I always need a little tail weight anyway so why bother with built up. With your engine though I don't think you're going to be nose heavy, it should be very light for a Hots.

I use a round engine mount and position it as high on the firewall as practical. There's really not much choice as to where it goes because of the fuse shape.

I've only angled the engine on one and for me it was a mistake. When I found that I needed to shim the thrust line to add a little down thrust, since the engine was mounted at an angle I could't just add washers. I had to make custom shims from aluminum stock. Never again. But with a pipe, you'll probably need to set the engine up for whatever gives you the best pipe mounting.

Dave

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RE: Another Hots! - 10/14/2007 12:34:00 AM   
glowplug50


 

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Next time just sand the back of the radial mount.

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RE: Another Hots! - 10/14/2007 12:47:20 AM   
modegrande


 

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You're right, I'm going to mount the engine up-right just in case I need to shim it. If then I run into any problems with the pipe not clearing the wing I can just throw the stock muffler back on. And Glowplug mounting the two servos in the back is not a bad idea, just for the simple fact that I probably wont be able to stuff all four up front without the pushrods hitting each other. All I have left to do is cut out the wing ribs and start gluing this puppy together.

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RE: Another Hots! - 10/14/2007 1:30:29 AM   
dbacque


 

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Ah, servo clearance. Everything fits as shown on the plans but putting an extra block under the elevator servo (2nd from the front) lets the elevator pushrod pass over the arm of the rudder (3rd) servo. It's tight but it works great.

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RE: Another Hots! - 10/14/2007 6:32:06 PM   
modegrande


 

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Hey Dave,

I just finished cutting out the wing ribs I stacked them and used a scroll saw to get them close and then finished sanding them to size on a disc sander.

Since most of my scratch builds consisted of foam core wings I was wondering if you had an easy way of cutting out the spar notches.

In the past I've used a razor saw but since you built a half dozen of these planes you must have a better method.

As far as servos I assume you are using standard ones not mini

Maurice.

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