hmmmm  
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Tower Hobbies
Enter up to 4 keywords or Tower stock numbers
Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: QBERT
  Printable Version
       


Mustang Exhaust - Kit
Seller:  tony-howard
Details:   $35.00   |  9/21/2008   |  Classified Ad
We will rotate YOUR AD in this spot if you select "Forum Featured" when placing or editing your ad!

All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> hmmmm
Page: <<   < prev  8 9 [10] 11 12 13 14 15 16 17   next >   >>  

Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
hmmmm - 5/2/2002 9:45:28 AM   
ProfLooney



Posts: 2413
Joined: 1/18/2002
From: Moline, IL, USA
Status: offline
well on the 101" stick with the G-23 as the G-38 is for the 118" and agree it would be overkill. HOWEVER if you can swing it the G-38 would be wiser if you not worried abt some of it showing out the cowl because then if you build another twin of a bigger size is nicks DC- 3/C - 47, P- 61, P-38 they all use the G-38 and you could use the same engines in the other plane. I tend to buy one plane and build several others around the same engine as i am poor and cant afford tons of engines so i swap them out heck fly one for a couple weeks swap engines to the other one in abt 1/2 or less and fly a diff plane. with the G-38 you just keep off the throttle and is at the high end of the 101" engine range so wouldnt have to worry abt weight either if you wanna add a bunch of scale stuff.

RCV engines are the ZDZ series if I am correct and they are lightweight but great engines also. I have used the ZDZ 80 in a couple planes and was very pleased with them but again had to add a lot of weight up front.

Ricks Bronco is a nice plane but not my style. I have read articles and reviews on it saying it is a great flyer.

hmmm need to jump and see what i missed brb.

ok back

as for fitting in the cowl the G-23 will fit. Nick like I said builds his planes around the engine and if you use the reccommended engine they seem to magically always fit his cowls.

As far as Fuji they are good engines also. They are the ones Byron used for their Purrr Pwrrr series of engines for their kits and have always been reliable. What more can I say there are tons of them still out there running great one of my buddies has 2 of them he has had for years.

Me Again :0)

_____________________________

Great War R/C
Http://www.proflooney.net

(in reply to badigital)
       Post #: 226

Building a Ziroli B-25(CONDENSED VERSION) - 5/2/2002 9:51:02 AM   
Burrito Bandito



Posts: 622
Joined: 5/1/2002
From: Collierville, TN, USA
Status: offline
Thanks Prof!


_____________________________

John

(in reply to badigital)
       Post #: 227

NP - 5/2/2002 9:58:28 AM   
ProfLooney



Posts: 2413
Joined: 1/18/2002
From: Moline, IL, USA
Status: offline
No Problem Stay tuned tomorrow to see how many different opinions come up lol but that is the fun if this forum because someone may have reasons opposite of mine and have good Pro's to theirs. Basically I am saying that we can all tell you our views but ultimately you just have to sift it all together throw it into a hat and try one and if it dont work you know next time to try onother. it is trial and error and after 25+ yrs of this I am still trial and error as things change all the time. ex your fav engine maker changes something then the engine is a POS so you have to try a nother one.

Me again and again :0)

_____________________________

Great War R/C
Http://www.proflooney.net

(in reply to badigital)
       Post #: 228

Building a Ziroli B-25(CONDENSED VERSION) - 5/4/2002 9:57:35 AM   
RandyL


 

Posts: 366
Joined: 2/1/2002
From: Silver Lake, KS, USA
Status: offline
Good to hear you got the gun pods Joe. I sure didn't have a use for them currently and don't plan another of these real soon. Too many other projects trying to climb up on the table.
I did finally get all my LG doors hinged and working as well as all the sub doors fitted and working smoothly. The sub doors allow the main gear doors to close with the LG extended.
Hope everyone's projects are doing as well.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize



_____________________________

Randy
Flying the Friendly Skies of Kansas

(in reply to badigital)
       Post #: 229

Building a Ziroli B-25(CONDENSED VERSION) - 5/4/2002 10:53:17 PM   
Shawnusa



Posts: 204
Joined: 3/6/2002
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline
Looking good Randy!

I just got my wood kit from Precision Cut Kits and it was better than I was expecting. Parts labled, seperated in diffrent bags, line-up lines on some of the formes like on the plans. All the formers are clean, smooth and ready for install. This is great! The frame up on this should be really quick as most of the hard preperation stuff is done! I will start posting my progress on my web site soon.

The web address will be

http://www.therogersplace.com/Shawnshobbies/Radiocontrol/B25project.php

For now the web site layout has been established. This is a chore all in it's self.

Shawnusa

(in reply to badigital)
       Post #: 230

Main Wing Spars tips, and processes - 5/5/2002 10:11:21 PM   
Shawnusa



Posts: 204
Joined: 3/6/2002
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline
Hey guys, I was wanting to know if you had to modify the Wing Spars at all to make the Ribs match it. As the written instructions clearly say "Be accurate in this procedure". My spars are cut exaclty as the templates, but do not exactly match every rib layout on the plans. There either off to the left or right. However, some do match. Also I'm alining the spars to the w-5 AND w-7. When I do this it leaves about a 1/16" gap. Where sis you do your alignment to.

Anway, I just want to hear your stories and ideas. Also, when glueing the wing spars together witht the Joiner, did you use Epoxy or CA? Plans or instructions do not specify.

Thanks,

Shawnusa

(in reply to badigital)
       Post #: 231

joiner - 5/6/2002 12:08:43 AM   
1wolf-RCU



Posts: 190
Joined: 1/4/2002
From: camdenton, MO, USA
Status: offline
On most everything to do with the Joiner I used epoxy. As far as spar alignment make sure your rib tips flow in a nice straight line in the front and rear. I had to shave a little off in a place or two.

(in reply to badigital)
       Post #: 232

? - 5/8/2002 9:49:39 AM   
1wolf-RCU



Posts: 190
Joined: 1/4/2002
From: camdenton, MO, USA
Status: offline
What happened to everyone? Did ya'll CA your fingers together again! I hate it when that happens!

(in reply to badigital)
       Post #: 233

Building a Ziroli B-25(CONDENSED VERSION) - 5/8/2002 11:31:42 AM   
Shawnusa



Posts: 204
Joined: 3/6/2002
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline
Hey Guys,

I have a building question pertaining to the instructions that came with the plans. On step 12 it says, "The trailing edge of each rib between W-1 and W-8 should line up with each other on each half." What the heck does this mean? I'm stuck right here. And a note. I hate th fach that the plans stretch. In the process of building the wing some of the plans lines just don't match the parts when assembled. I'm having to guess and estimate. Is everyone else experienceing this?

Shawnusa

_____________________________

Education is the heart of right and reason.

(in reply to badigital)
       Post #: 234

Building a Ziroli B-25(CONDENSED VERSION) - 5/8/2002 4:01:53 PM   
RandyL


 

Posts: 366
Joined: 2/1/2002
From: Silver Lake, KS, USA
Status: offline
I believe that all they are saying is to have a straight line along the trailing edge of the wing. Not sure it even has to be stated, You want the leading edge straight also.. : )
Once you get past that main spar there will be not be much more for interlocking parts ( as I recall, the main spar is notched ). Just build over the plans after that, it won't be a big deal as you move forward. It is just wood and glue, it can all be adjusted.


_____________________________

Randy
Flying the Friendly Skies of Kansas

(in reply to badigital)
       Post #: 235

I'm Here - 5/8/2002 4:44:49 PM   
ProfLooney



Posts: 2413
Joined: 1/18/2002
From: Moline, IL, USA
Status: offline
I'm still here wolf got my parts i forgot to vector in and all the other planes i had to vector done so getting ready to hit the wing and second fuse.

BTW got a new webcam too so will get it up by this weekend

_____________________________

Great War R/C
Http://www.proflooney.net

(in reply to badigital)
       Post #: 236

well said Randy - 5/8/2002 4:54:37 PM   
1wolf-RCU



Posts: 190
Joined: 1/4/2002
From: camdenton, MO, USA
Status: offline
Yes and just make sure all your interlocking parts can interlock! This sets all the proper angles for the center section ribs. The ribs may not all line up exactly over the prints Just make sure they remain straight If they don't line up don't force them out of line. I had several that ran down one side or the other of the rib on the print so you can still use that line as a guide even if your not right on top of it.

(in reply to badigital)
       Post #: 237

spars - 5/8/2002 5:20:37 PM   
1wolf-RCU



Posts: 190
Joined: 1/4/2002
From: camdenton, MO, USA
Status: offline
Oh and Shawnusa don't modify your spars they are a big part of your wings strength if you have to modify do it to the notches in the rib. Just my opinion here but I try to make sure my spar integrity is always maintained. Good to see ya Joe that vectorizing looks like its about to wear you out! Your going to have to get back to building so you can rest up!

(in reply to badigital)
       Post #: 238

rest - 5/8/2002 8:47:32 PM   
ProfLooney



Posts: 2413
Joined: 1/18/2002
From: Moline, IL, USA
Status: offline
well I am at least done for now as I build up more