naberm

Jaskel

Sorry I see that you asked me some time ago if I had a reply from Elvin after I sent him some programming instructions. The answer is no I didn't. He never confirmed whether they were correct or not but the earlier instructions by Vultch did work for me.

All I could get out of Elvin was to buy a programming card, which he could not supply or tell me where or what to get. Otherwise he suggested much the same nonsense about trading the speed controller in that I have seen in other posts here.

The instructions Vultch posted were the same as for a Tower Pro ESC so maybe the Generation 2 instruction might work for some of you.

Otherwise if anyone could actually get Elvin to supply some factory instructions I would love to here about it.

Mike

electriceye

Hi, Like you I'm struggling with this RC Smart stuff. The programming as contributed in this site does make sense and my 30A ESC does exactly the beeps etc as described, however the motor worked great for 30 seconds then seemed to sieze up. Now no matter what I set the ESC to the motor just cahatters on any throttle setting, sometimes screeches on full power but never spins. The ESC starts to get warm,plus as it is obvious something is wrong I turn itt all off after a couple of attempts. This is my first try at brushless and I'm very dsisappointed. There is not much more to try and am close to binning it althoughI think the ESC is ok as all controls work and power must be getting to the motor....AArrghhhh..(frustration...!!!!)

naberm

Electriceye

I had another brand of controller do this after it arced badly when I plugged it into a lipo. I assumed the pulse may have fried something. So I sent it back. On thinking about it though, the timing might have been reset, something I never thought to check at the time. With your ESC you could check that the timing is either 7 or 15 degrees and this may fix it. If not there is more likely something wrong with the ESC rather than the motor.

Mike

TCEAGLE1

What is pwm, what does it do? I have a 40 amp rc smart controller ( I ordered the 30 but got the 40) with the 4200 kv outrunner and all has worked fine, until i tried a different brand of motor, a 2600kv. It runs fine up to half throttle, them gets real eratic and gets hot. The rc smart motor still works fine. Are these controllers not compatible with other brands of motors or do i need to adjust pwm or something.

TC

frank123vliegen

Hi,
I just bought the RC Smart 30A brushless speed controller with the 1550 motor. I connected all like it should be but I can´t get the thing running. There isn´t even a beep from the ESC when I connect the battery. Can someone tell me what could be the problem here?
Thx

electriceye

Sorry to say I gave up and sent mine back (both motor and ESC) as they only worked for 30 seconds!! Waiting for replacements as I write.

littlehammer

I am chiming in a little late but here goes. I ordered a 60 amp RCSmart ESC from rcpower2006 (Elvin Lam) and couldn't get it to work with my Walkera 3000kv 400 bl motor. I e-mailed Elvin and all he would suggest is to check the connections and/or send the esc back and he would send me another one that works. I reconnected everything and still got nothing. There was no power to the servos, no beeps, nothing. I e-mailed Elvin again and asked if there was an arming sequence, anything to try before sending it back to him. Elvin just kept insisting that I send the esc back and he would send another one out to me. Well I sent it to him and now he pretends that he never received it. It's been a month now and I don't expect to get anything from him. I send packages to Hong Kong all the time and they never get lost. I will never buy from him or any other Hong Kong based company again. Not unless I know that they have a good reputation.

Speaking of which, the Ebay rating system is a joke. I doesn't matter how promptly you pay a vendor, they will never rate you until you rate them positively. That is wrong, that defeats the purpose of an honest rating. That makes the entire rating system false. I should feel better but I don't, I am still out time and money.

CRD

My Feedback: (5)

I ordered a 30amp esc, 4870v motor and a metal gear box, came everything except the gear box, so I filled a paypal claim about missing parts, now I will take up to a chargeback because the ESC is useless without instructions.

CRD

My Feedback: (5)

I just cut the blue shrink plastic wrap from the RC SMART ESC 30A and is the exact style as the TOWERPRO 30A ESC 2nd Gen.


I started to test the Menu option and they identically so far.

Here is the programing working for me so far, this programing chart is from the TOWERPRO ESC



I'm using a 7.4v Lipo and in Option 1 , I'm using AUTO

nothinglasts

Well I've bought some Tower Pro 30A ESC's in addition to the RCSmart one and yes they appear to be identical in the way they are programmed etc.
But what confuses me is that even though the instructions listed above match the style of beeps that my ESC's use , I have more options. Like SIX for the first setting (cutoff voltage) which means I have no idea what the choices really are. I know that the second setting is brake but beyond that who knows. [:@]
I asked the seller I got the TP ESC's from for instructions but this guy (fugotech) doesnt answer ANY questions at all (won't even contact you after payment - items just turn up 2 weeks later).

electriceye

See leter post-repeated myself in error-sorry

AutoMike

Ok, I bought the 833 motor and 60 amp speed control myself and I really like it. Like everyone here, I too wish I had some clue as to how to program the esc. My email to Elvin got the same reply as others here, "get the programing card from a hobby shop" [:@]. However, looking thru Tower Hobbies site I found the GWS ESC programming card for $8.99. I wonder if this is what Elvin has been refering to? I've sent him a email asking this, we'll see but for the price I though it was worth a try. I'll post once I find out if it works or not. Mike

AutoMike

littlehammer, I too thought something was wrong with my 60amp at first. Once I conected a flight pack battery all was well. The speed control has BEC printed on it and it came with the red two wire r/c car BEC type of pig-tail but was not attaced to the ESC. I'm going to be running 14.8v so most ESC's disable the BEC in that case anyway.

critterhunter

Just did a quick skim over this thread and it appears you guys have a Tower Pro ESC. Not time to read in detail at the moment. Don't think I posted this on here before (?) but go to rcgroups.com to the power sources forum. Look for a thread that starts with the word "Caution" spelled wrong as "Coution". It'll have all the info you *might* need to set up the various versions (there might be at least four now) of the 30 amp and other ESCs. You have to figure out which one you have and then how to program it. Much hard work has been done by others on there to set things straight.

electriceye

It is only fair I report that he exchanger my motor and ESC without any trouble-It took a few weeks but that's only to be expected if dealing with Hong Kong-I haven't tried them yet (to be honest I am a little reluctant!), however as he did replace both items I had to mention it.

max-nix

My Feedback: (1)

Ck out the Scorpion ESC, it comes with a programing card, each function is set with a switch. 2 year warranty.

http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/pro...products_id=38

I purchased a motor & esc from Innov8tive Designs, fast shipping and excellent quality

fwolf15

have someone tested the auto shut down when signal is lost fuction ? I've received last week a RC Smart 30 A esc, but if I switch off the TX (for simulating a signal lost) the esc doesn't swicth off the motor, the esc switch to full speed.... I think thats the wrong way in a case of lost the TX signal.
I think I should ask the guys from RC Smart about this, but they still celebrate the chinese new year till 22nd feb ans so there is no chance for a quick answer

Wolfgang

1BADHD

So, if you do get in teh menus, how do you choose your selection? I am have on hell ofa time trying to get this ESC working and about ready to just quit.

Rodmz

i bought an RC Smart 30a esc from this guy and this is what he sent when i asked for the programming instructions, if it's any help to you:


The only programming options for these ESCs are:
1) LIPO automatic protection (2S or 3S, e.g. 6V or 9V)
- or -
NiMH/NiCD auto protection (0.8v per cell)
2) Brake toggle ON/OFF (ON by default)
Operation Limit:
12A: max current 15A, continuous current 12A for 10 minutes
25A: max current 30A, continuous current 25A for 10 minutes
30A: max current 35A, continuous current 30A for 10 minutes
Voltage Range: 6V-12V
Number of Batteries: 4-12NiMH, 2-3LiPo
BEC Output: 5V1.5A.2LiPo4-5mini servo, 3Lipo3-4mini servo
Protective Functions:
• Automatically select 2-3LiPo,protective voltages are 6V/9V respectively;
• Automatically select NiMH, the protective voltage for each battery is 0.8V.
• Safe start –will not start if the throttle stick is not in the right position;
• Temperature protection, shutdown if the surface temperature reaches 110?
• Loss of control protection: Shutdown after 1 second if signal lost.
Performance:
• Motor limit:
o 2-pole max RPM: 300000 (300K)
o 12-pole max RPM 50000 (50K)
o 14-pole max RPM 42000 (42K)
• For 8KHz pWM control ,
• Position of the full, throttle will be adjust automatically
• BEC and MCU use separate power supply for table operation.

Legend:
“BEEEEP” = long and loud beep
“beeeep” = long and softer beep
“B” = a short beep
Following this normal start procedure:
1) Turn on TX
2) Set to no (lowest) throttle
3) Plug-in power to receiver/ESCs
You will hear this:
BEEEEP (if Auto LiPo protection is on) - OR - BBB (if auto NiMH/NiCD protection is on)
(5 second pause)
B
(1 second pause)
B
(1 second pause)
B
(1 second pause)
B
(1 second pause)
B
Motor is armed. Actually Motor is armed after the initial long beep, but its safest to wait unti the beep sequence is complete.
For the programming procedure:
NOTE: for FUTABA series transmitters, the throttle channel should be set to REV (reversed).
1) Turn on TX
2) Set to Full (highest) throttle
3) Plug-in power to receiver/ESCs
You will hear this:
B
(1 second pause) (LIPO automatic protection menu item)
B
(1 second pause)
BB
(1 second pause) (NiMH/NiCD automatic protection menu item)
BB
(1 second pause)
BBB
(1 second pause) (Brake selection menu item)
BBB
And then the sequence repeats over and over.
4) To select a menu/submenu option switch the throttle stick, to the lowest position at the first time interval. (For example, to select LIPO automatic protection: switch the throttle stick to the lowest position when hearing the first B sound) (the zone between the first B and the second B above, about a 2 second window)
5) You should hear “beeeep” to indicate that the setting was saved.
6) If there are other settings you want to program then quickly (within 2 seconds of the save sound, beeeep) switch the throttle to the highest position to return to the main menu beep sequence.
7) If you have finished with all your changes, then wait 2 seconds and the motor will send a confirmation sound “beeeep” (long, softer beep), saving the setting. After this, the ESC will confirm that the throttle is in the lowest setting (move it there if it is not) and then do the normal startup sequence, after which, the motor is armed and you are ready to go.
NOTES:
- LIPO automatic protection has only 2 voltage protection points, 6V when it auto detects a 2S and 9V when it auto detects a 3S (basically 3V per cell). There is no need to use a full capacity battery.
- NiMH automatic protection is set at 0.8V per cell, calculated according to the real number of batteries. In order to ensure accurate judgment of the battery voltage, please charge the battery to full capacity. If the battery is not at full capacity. The speed controller will estimate the protection voltage according to 53% of the full capacity.
- The brake is initially ON by default. The brake setting toggles. If already the brake is already on, the selection of this menu item with turn it off (between the BBB and BBB in the program sequence). If the brake is already off, the selection of this menu item with turn it on.
- Factory parameter reset function: because this series of electronic governor has an overheating and false operation protective function, if you find that the speed controller is accelerating or changing its direction, or the throttle is different from the original condition, you can reset the factory parameters to obtain the highest performance. (not sure what this means or how to do it)
IMPORTANT:
When starting in normal use mode, if the first thing you hear is a long BEEEEP this indicates that the ESC is in LIPO automatic protection mode, but if you hear BBB (three short beeps together) this indicates that the ESC is in NiMH/NiCD automatic protection mode.

Rodmz

got a chance to put it together tonite and the beeps of the esc don't match the info that he sent. so if may work on one of rc smart's other esc's. sure doesn't match the RC Smart 30a esc i have.

David867

Thanks Rodmz, I'll give that a try later tonight. I bought a 980kV motor and the RC Smart 30A ESC.
The beeps don't match either, when I power up on low throttle and arm, it plays some music and arms.

But when in program mode, full throttle, I think mine beeps 3 times, then follows the pattern you described. First it goes B, B, B, pause, then BB, BB, BB, pause... I never paid attention but I think those are the menus you described.

I'll give it a try tonight and post the results.
Thanks for sharing the info! I'm hoping to use the brake so I can save myself some damage, right before a crash I can stop the propeller.

Rodmz

hi David867. i have a similar esc as you, except mine is 30A4 with a heli picture on it and yours 30A5, all other numbers the same. i e-mailed rc smart again and he gave me yet another set of instructions. these are in pdf and for a Mystery esc. the steps are real close to the sounds the only difference being that sounds for selection # 1&2 are reversed for me. rest of the sounds follow the order in the instructions. think this is about as close as i'm gonna get[sm=confused_smile.gif]. hope it helps someone else

David867

Hey, thanks for that! The Mystery ESC is the same hardware as the RC Smart ESC, check the picture. If the firmware is the same, which I think it is, then the instructions will work. I think they just switched the brake on/brake off order.

So ya, this ESC is easy to program. That's a lot of writing in the PDF, for a simple procedure.

In summary, 5 easy steps to programming:
1 - Power up with stick at top.
2 - Listen to the beeps, it will follow the PDF with 1st and 2nd options switched.
3 - When you hear the option you'd like to enable, put stick to mid. You have to do this during the 3 series of beeps, it gives you a lot of time.
4 - When you are at mid stick you'll hear quick beeping, it has recognized you want this option, now put the stick back to the top and it'll select this option. At this point you'll go back to programming from the beginning again, step 2. You can keep doing this in a loop until you're done.
5 - When you're satisfied with all the options, finish programming by putting the stick to the bottom, it'll arm, make a musical noise, beep once(beep twice if break is off), now it's armed and ready to go.

So you keep looping from step 2 to 4 until you've set your ESC up. For my plane I would enable brake on, LiPoly, Hard Start, and Hard Timing, then finalize by arming.

Too bad the ESC has no low voltage setting, I think it's low voltage setting is ok though.
Remember soft start is bad even for helicopters, you might need the power when you're coming down from a hover, it'll try to soft start and you'll end up crashing, it's happened to many. It's best to enable hard start and ease up on the throttle.

Pretty simple ESC to program! Thanks to Rodmz!!! That's awesome.
I've also got a Mystery ESC that I haven't used, that'll be useful for that too.
I'll try that and see how it works.

Thanks!

EDIT: Read the instructions, they're not bad, they say to drop the stick to low then back to high to enable that setting, I guess that works too, I found dropping to midd and back up worked for enabling and disabling the brake.

EDIT2: Just reprogrammed, hard start doesn't seem to work, it's still doing some sort of soft start, but it's definitely not as soft as a heli soft start, I'll have to switch between soft/hard to find out. Timing, I can't determine unless I fly in the field. The voltage of my LIPO when it reduced power due to low voltage was 3.42V/cell, that's pretty good. Maybe switching between NiCD/Lipo is how you change high/low voltage cutoff. NiCD would probably be low voltage cutoff, because those batteries like to be drained dead, and lipo's high because they are damaged if drained below a certain voltage. Best to leave it on LIPO since you get more cycles out of your lipo, and in the end you get more total runtime even though each cycle is shorter.