d-lo
Posts: 239
Joined: 8/20/2007
From: portland, OR, USA
Status: online
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quote:
ORIGINAL: D Dub
Ok, so I need some help. My family and I just got back from our lake property where we ran 4 MV's most of the week but we all had several problems. First was three of the four boats needed the pull starters replaced... two of them twice and the other only once so five if you don't include the two drive starters in that case we are at seven total. Then we went to the LHS up there and had a new bearing and drive starter on one of the boats with a little modification which appeared to work. When mine went out after two of the guys had replaced them twice I went with the drive starter as well but was never able to get it to fire. So one guy quit all together refusing to buy a third and the other and myself had the drive starter where only one of us had any success with it. When installing mine the guy at the LHS said that the rod the bearing fit on and that spun the driveline was loose and would probably have to be replaced down the road which is fine but the engine was running perfect on the last run when I shut her down where nothing seemed o be wrong untill I tried getting it started again.
The next set of problems we encountered was with the box that held the electronics. We bought about eight new servos between the four of us and nothing we tried to keep them dry worked. We double and triple balloned the recievers and the tied the ends. Put sponges on the bottom of the box. We even used water proof tape around the seams along with silicone with no luck. We also would remove it all after a couple of runs to see if it was working, then have to dry it all out again and start all over because it wasn't.
With all that said I still love the boat and so do the rest of the guys and when we had them all running together it was worth all the headaches. So please if you have any useful tips on how we can avoid some of these problems in the future it would be greatly appreciated.
agreed with the other folks, the tiger drives don't work well. i got them to work ok, but the pull start, or better yet a belt, work awesome....... that's that.
i got my radio box to seal up pretty good, here's where i am at with it:
make sure the boots are glued well to the plastic ring that goes through the box. i put a zip tie around the exit of the boot, around the rod, to hold it tight around the rod. i also checked and relocated the rubber seal in the groove for the lid, as it had a gap. carefully pulling it out about an inch, i stretched it to a perfect fit to the other end. make sure the switch boot is good, mine had a small tear. use corrosion X on ALL the electronics, i drown my servos, receivers, and have not had a problem since. many wet servo situations since then. check the box for cracks. make sure the antenna lead is sealed. i always leave a paper towel in the box, captures any loose water. when i balloon, i zip tie it twice, once, then one more just forward of that. lastly, i put a dab of silicone on all four blocks/screw holes when replacing the box back in the boat. (of course it is out of the boat for all these tweaks, i forgot to mention...)
let us know how you fare, these things are fun, but they take some patience and maintenance to keep them going........ there is a great group of people here that have helped me immensely......
davey
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All Forums >> RC Boats >> Speed - RC Nitro Boats >> RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast! 
RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast! - 
If the boat is moving forward,they are draining the hull,and NO water is comming into it. The auto bailers will sometimes get a little debris(moss,weed,ect. ) in them and become auto sinkers!But if ya use allot of good flotation,your boat isn't going anywhere! The Grim Racer turn finn,is also the best "bolt on" part I have installed on the boat yet! It corners at WOT like it's on rails.The foam in the boat is foam insulation board,about 3/4 inch thick. Very dense,and very light. Good stuff. Ron Here's a few pics. 
