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All Forums >> RC Boats >> Speed - RC Nitro Boats >> RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast!
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RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast! - 8/22/2008 1:17:53 PM   
toddlupton


 

Posts: 51
Joined: 7/6/2008
From: hendersonville, NC, AMERICAN SAMOA (USA)
Status: offline
Finished the mod build on the aquacraft 18 motor in my miss vegas, also put plastic screw in bottom hole in stock rudder, seems fine. Damn it runs sweet. Hate to say it but, thanks James for the info. Now Im going to mod my SV-27 nitro motor. had to loose the super cooler in the Miss Vegas, too much garbage in the boat and sticks the header out too far. Got the sv-27 header cooler, less garbage and works better. Ripping up the lake is fun, also my dog likes chasing the boat. get it in close to shore just to drive him nuts. my luck one day it's going to stall and he's going to get it.

(in reply to toddlupton)
       Post #: 3201

RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast! - 8/22/2008 3:28:24 PM   
toddlupton


 

Posts: 51
Joined: 7/6/2008
From: hendersonville, NC, AMERICAN SAMOA (USA)
Status: offline
You know sometimes I think everyone looses perspective. Yes fast is nice, but in the end it's having fun that's the real issue. I'm in this for fun. There isn't anything better than running those boats around on the lake watching the dog go nuts, and seeing the smiles on the kids faces. Even let the 9 year old run the boat. He thinks it's a blast. Thinking of getting him a mini rio for his birthday next month.

(in reply to toddlupton)
       Post #: 3202

RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast! - 8/23/2008 9:17:59 PM   
ka350kaptain


 

Posts: 108
Joined: 8/26/2005
From: Rochester Hills, MI, USA
Status: offline
Just got my new Vegas today. What tool/method should I use to cut more openings in the cowl for airflow? Also to cut out the end of the turbine exhaust?

New to cutting holes in fiberglass. Thanks.

(in reply to toddlupton)
       Post #: 3203

RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast! - 8/23/2008 11:01:31 PM   
beaverboy


 

Posts: 122
Joined: 11/25/2006
From: Steilacoom, WA, USA
Status: offline
A dremel tool works well if you have one. If not I'd use a coping saw and files. Don't be afraid to take out some of the foam in the tail pipe for air flow through. As long as the cowl still floats you're OK. I coated my foam with thinned West Epoxy to preserve it. After you cut out the rear of the tail pipe, the boat may take on water if you retrieve it using the fishing line, reel and tennis ball method and drag it backwards to shore. No big deal. Pull the glo plug, spin the engine a few times and fire it up again.

(in reply to ka350kaptain)
       Post #: 3204

RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast! - 8/23/2008 11:23:39 PM   
ka350kaptain


 

Posts: 108
Joined: 8/26/2005
From: Rochester Hills, MI, USA
Status: offline
Great. Thanks. I do have a dremel, and I figured that would work the best.

(in reply to beaverboy)
       Post #: 3205

RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast! - 8/24/2008 1:06:42 AM   
d-lo


 

Posts: 239
Joined: 8/20/2007
From: portland, OR, USA
Status: online
well, i took the OS VZ-M .21 powered vegas out today, had a fun time with it. the best i could muster was a 49.4 MPH, (tried so hard to hit the 50 MPH mark, bit just couldn't get there.. ). this was with 30% fuel, an M440 prop, strut at about 7/8"s, neutral, maybe the prop ever so slightly pointing up.(positive? negative? i can never remember which way is which! ), bone stock hull, besides a grim fin that has been trimmed width wise about 3/8"s. oh, and a 'sean' rudder...... the cowl is not cutout at the back either....... would it help?

she really pushed the left sponson up in the straights,, even with the turn fin angled downward, to create upward thrust on the right sponson. pipe length is at about 8 1/2"s to 8 3/4"s. i measured wrong when i set it up, but i was already out there, and that was as short as i could get it.

handled well, but i could tell she was on the ragged edge it seemed, just wanting to get out of control, but just staying in control. no blow overs, BARELY. i did add about 3 oz's of weight to the nose cone, much better ride, kept it down in the front, but harder to get on a plane. it also seemed the motor needed a lap or two to build some heat, and then it would just rip......

i tried an X437/3, Y537/3, X440/3, but nothing could touch the M440. of course i raised the strut up for the 3 blades, to about 1/2". they ran good, were hard to get up on the pipe, (mac's 3.5), they looked faster, but the M440 always won out.

couple of questions, what header are you guys with .21's running? the one i bought is a little hinky, it works, but i am having a hard time getting the pipe the right length, due to the header design/length. oh, and what's a good pipe length to start at and work my way in from? i have asked before, but only got one response, and had a hard time locating it, as i can't find the thread. i believe 8 1/2 is what i read? also, what props are you guys with .21's running? and, any tips to hit the big 5-0 without doing hull mods? (i am not the craftiest 'glass man, but real good with the technical/mechanical aspect.....)

coolio, thanks again for everyone's help and tips, i am having a blast with the boats, largely due to the help i have gotten here. fun is the name of the game for sure....


any suggestions welcome!


davey

(in reply to ka350kaptain)
       Post #: 3206

RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast! - 8/25/2008 1:33:07 PM   
fleawest


 

Posts: 32
Joined: 2/7/2007
From: Taree, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline
Hi every body here are a cupple of things i have done to my vegas i found that my header pipe was getting very hot so i put same copper pipe around it an stuck it there with liqued steel it has made a big diff to the boat i was also haveing problems with stripping the tops of the scrows on the radio box so i found that a cupple of rubber bands fixed that problem an i was also haveing problems with the hach cameing undone so i want back to the rubber bands have a look an tell me what ya think.

(in reply to Ron Olson)
       Post #: 3207

RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast! - 8/26/2008 1:35:14 AM   
hedach


 

Posts: 97
Joined: 1/3/2008
From: , CT, USA
Status: offline
D-lo. I ran my Vegas with a .21 VZM aswell. That 440 prop was good but not enough rpms to turn it fast enough. I would run your same speed all the time with that prop. So i tryed a x442 with tunges cut and boat always would run 55mph. I also ran the thin shim and 50-60 % nitro. Try it! By the way if you move your prop sideways to the right it will have a easyer time keeping the sponson down. I ran into the same problem. Also look for "my boat 2" video.

< Message edited by hedach -- 8/26/2008 1:40:58 AM >

(in reply to d-lo)
       Post #: 3208

RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast! - 8/26/2008 2:50:26 AM   
d-lo


 

Posts: 239
Joined: 8/20/2007
From: portland, OR, USA
Status: online

quote:

ORIGINAL: hedach

D-lo. I ran my Vegas with a .21 VZM aswell. That 440 prop was good but not enough rpms to turn it fast enough. I would run your same speed all the time with that prop. So i tryed a x442 with tunges cut and boat always would run 55mph. I also ran the thin shim and 50-60 % nitro. Try it! By the way if you move your prop sideways to the right it will have a easyer time keeping the sponson down. I ran into the same problem. Also look for "my boat 2" video.

ok, so you moved your whole strut to the right? she reeeeally torques that left sucker up! looks like an X442 is in order as well. i was really surprised how much it liked the M440 over the three blade, i even had the tongues cut on the X440/3, but i guess your right, just couldn't spin it fast enough......


just curious, do you have a pic of your pipe/header setup? and what length pipe are you running? (plug to bulge)

thanks man, i was hoping you'd chime in, just the answers i was lookin' for!


davey

(in reply to hedach)
       Post #: 3209

RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast! - 8/27/2008 7:32:33 PM   
chvybeatsford


 

Posts: 3
Joined: 6/12/2008
From: Gonzales, LA, USA
Status: offline
I've read more than enough in here and still can't find the post about putting water cooled head on 18tz. This forum needs a " search this thread" function to help keep the question down . Some one please point me in the right direction

(in reply to toddlupton)
       Post #: 3210

RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast! - 8/27/2008 9:40:41 PM   
d-lo


 

Posts: 239
Joined: 8/20/2007
From: portland, OR, USA
Status: online
quote:

ORIGINAL: chvybeatsford

I've read more than enough in here and still can't find the post about putting water cooled head on 18tz. This forum needs a " search this thread" function to help keep the question down . Some one please point me in the right direction
yeah, it is a little difficult to find certain sections in here about the vegas for sure!
let's see, i personally haven't done it, as i am still running the air cooled head.(that is in my proboat, air runs right across it........) for the vegas, i am pretty sure that people take a cvr-m button and cooling portion, and mill the 'outer ring' down. the tz has a cylinder sleeve that sits flush with the block, whereas the cvr sleeve sticks up out of the hole. therefore, the cvr head button has a 'lip' that overhangs the protruding sleeve. if you mill this outer ring down to almost flush,(don't want to hit/scratch/mar the the head surface...)then the head button, cooling portion, will bolt right on. of course you would need longer head screws as well...........

another option that people do, is to heat brass tubing up until it's red hot, let air cool, fill with sand, (to prevent kinking..)then coil it around the air cooled head to make a 'cooling coil' around the air cooled head. personally, i like the turbo button staying on the tz motor, and i would try the tubing method. i may be mistaken, or someone may correct me, but i don't think the head volumes are the same on the tz and the crv. it seemed to me that the cvr head had a larger 'chamber' to it, making less compression. like i said, i might be high, but i thought i compared the two, and saw a difference........

let us know how you fare, good luck!


davey

< Message edited by d-lo -- 8/27/2008 9:43:09 PM >

(in reply to chvybeatsford)
       Post #: 3211

RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it F... - 8/27/2008 10:08:57 PM   
5574jerome


 

Posts: 24
Joined: 1/24/2008
From: fort waltonbeach, FL, USA
Status: offline
the tz thing your looking for is 112 i think i found it fast because i have read the whole thing

< Message edited by 5574jerome -- 8/27/2008 10:11:42 PM >

(in reply to d-lo)
       Post #: 3212

RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it F... - 8/27/2008 11:38:03 PM   
chvybeatsford


 

Posts: 3
Joined: 6/12/2008
From: Gonzales, LA, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: 5574jerome

the tz thing your looking for is 112 i think i found it fast because i have read the whole thing


THanks will take a look.

(in reply to 5574jerome)
       Post #: 3213

RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast! - 8/27/2008 11:40:20 PM   
chvybeatsford


 

Posts: 3
Joined: 6/12/2008
From: Gonzales, LA, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: d-lo

quote:

ORIGINAL: chvybeatsford

I've read more than enough in here and still can't find the post about putting water cooled head on 18tz. This forum needs a " search this thread" function to help keep the question down . Some one please point me in the right direction
yeah, it is a little difficult to find certain sections in here about the vegas for sure!
let's see, i personally haven't done it, as i am still running the air cooled head.(that is in my proboat, air runs right across it........) for the vegas, i am pretty sure that people take a cvr-m button and cooling portion, and mill the 'outer ring' down. the tz has a cylinder sleeve that sits flush with the block, whereas the cvr sleeve sticks up out of the hole. therefore, the cvr head button has a 'lip' that overhangs the protruding sleeve. if you mill this outer ring down to almost flush,(don't want to hit/scratch/mar the the head surface...)then the head button, cooling portion, will bolt right on. of course you would need longer head screws as well...........

another option that people do, is to heat brass tubing up until it's red hot, let air cool, fill with sand, (to prevent kinking..)then coil it around the air cooled head to make a 'cooling coil' around the air cooled head. personally, i like the turbo button staying on the tz motor, and i would try the tubing method. i may be mistaken, or someone may correct me, but i don't think the head volumes are the same on the tz and the crv. it seemed to me that the cvr head had a larger 'chamber' to it, making less compression. like i said, i might be high, but i thought i compared the two, and saw a difference........

let us know how you fare, good luck!


davey

OK thanks but i think i should have said that i already have the cvr part jacket and head. What i wanna do is keep the turbo plug head. SO i may jus machine the blue tz head to aloow fitment of the jacket it self.

(in reply to d-lo)
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