RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts)  
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Tower Hobbies
Enter up to 4 keywords or Tower stock numbers
Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
  Printable Version
       


HELICOPTER PROBLEMS OR NO EXPERIENCE: LET OUR STANDS AID YOU - RTR
Seller:  helisafestuff
Details:   $99.95   |  1/3/2009   |  Classified Ad
We will rotate YOUR AD in this spot if you select "Forum Featured" when placing or editing your ad!

All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.. >> RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts)
Page: <<   < prev  8 9 [10] 11 12 13 14 15 16 17   next >   >>  

Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 8/15/2006 6:01:34 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		For the third cell, the TP tap goes to the BANK 2, GROUP B socket:





Also very straight forward, again the red (positive wire) of the TP6P13 must connect to the red wire of the MC-3:



As shown above, this time, the RED WIRE and the LAST BLACK WIRE is NOT USED.

(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 226

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 8/15/2006 6:05:29 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		This redundant wires are shrink wraped and kept aside (do not short circuit!) :


(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 227

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 8/15/2006 6:07:24 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		And so, this is the full ballancer set up, two taps at the 'front', and one at the back:


(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 228

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 8/15/2006 6:41:58 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Next is the output or charging power supply - which connects the TP 1010C charger to the 1, 2 or 3 lipo cells. Each cell is 3S1P, so that the wire will have to carry a whopping 37.8 volts at full charge:



I cut the input power supply that came with the TP 1010C, to build this set up - I didn't need the input power lead to be that long anyway. Here it is shown with the banana plug (which goes to the charger):


(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 229

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 8/15/2006 6:47:14 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		At first trial run, I reconfirmed what others (running 3S + 3S set up) have reported - the ballancer gets very very hot when ballancing more the one 3S1P cell.
This is because the ballancer recognises the 3S1P X 3 CELLS as ONE BATTERY. If one 3S1P is 12.3 volt while the other two is 11.2 volts, it will automatically bring down the 12.3 volts to 11.2 volts.
Any 'access' voltage is converted to heat - and THAT'S A LOT OF HEAT!

I addressed this by adding HUGE heat sink to the system.

(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 230

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 8/15/2006 6:51:26 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		I rummaged through my store room and came out with my old car amplifier - dimantled it as such:


Cleaned the heat sink surface:


Side view shows the thick alluminum heat 'bank'. Perfect!!!!!


I drilled holes to mount my 6 pin (x2) and 4 pin mates later, using cable ties - I also drilled holes to mount my TP 210 on to this alluminum slab:

(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 231

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 8/15/2006 6:53:27 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		This is my trail run on TP 210 and wire positioning:


(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 232

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 8/15/2006 6:56:05 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		To ensure the TP 210 ballancer heat is transferred perfectly on to the alluminum slab, I used these heat sink compound (from my local DIY shop):


(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 233

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 8/15/2006 6:57:33 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Apply generously over the underside of the TP 210 ballancer:



Then spread evenly over this bottom surface:


(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 234

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 8/15/2006 7:01:36 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		The TP 210 is firmly placed on to the heat sink surface using the cable ties. Access heat sink compound will be pressed out:


The access is cleaned off:


And epoxy is applied to keep the ballancer in place:


(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 235

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 8/15/2006 7:05:31 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		The wires are also cable tied on to the surface. However, I made sure there is no possibility of short circuiting the soldered areas by placing either double sided tapes or plastic film under these connectors:


(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 236

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 8/15/2006 7:11:09 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Next up was the support for the output power supply. I used a strip of mounting bracket (from my car), as shown here:



I insulated this bracket using electric tape, again to ensure no possibility of short circuiting the system (> 30 volts DC is no joke):


(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 237

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 8/15/2006 7:14:55 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		I cable tied the output wire supply onto the bar. And THOUGHT it is READY TO GO!:


(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 238

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 8/15/2006 7:18:02 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		And this is where the information I got from the RCGroups site failed me. On first trial run, smoke came out of my TP 210. I thought - shxx!! Thats it! End of story!!
I dismantled everything, and found the burnt area:



(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 239

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 8/15/2006 7:22:38 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		LUCKILY, Thunder power built this ballancer idiot proof. A quick resoldering of this burnt 'connector', got this ballancer back in good running again.

But why did it burn??? Why did it function great the first time I tried it, but burnt up in smoke after I built the output power connector????? There in lies the answer.

There is an arrangement in the charging cells in relation to the ballancer taps. THIS ARRANGEMENT IS WRONG!!!!!!!:


(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 240

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 8/15/2006 7:25:57 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		After burning the TP210 'connectors' another 2 times to find the right arrangement - I finally figured it out. But look at what my ballancer ended up with :

When printine New:



After burning 3 times:


Well, there goes my warranty...

(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 241