RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts)

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts)
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All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.. >> RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts)

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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 9/5/2006 3:05:18 PM

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Joined: 9/29/2005
From: Alexandria, VA, USA
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Bear,

from the first pic.. i thought you really had a baaaaad crash.. but it turned out to be not that bad in terms of damage.. well was glad to hear you were up within an hour or so.. again nice mod for the base protection...

why don't you sell your design to a heli company after all the mods are done.. maybe you can make a quick buck.. form all your hard work..

hey.. let me ask you a question.. how long a 36 belt lasts.. i have been flying about 2 flights a day.. for almost 1 monthy now.. how long do you thing the belt will last..

thanks,
squadri.

(in reply to borneobear)

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 9/11/2006 3:53:47 AM

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Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
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squadri - sorry for the late reply. Been out of the country of late. Anyway, the belts you're using will last depending on how you fly and how often you crash. The more stress you put on the belt, the faster the wear and tear. If you're only doing hovers and FF, then it should last quite a bit. I'd say 3 to 6 months. Regularly check the belt's condition to be on the safe side. If the grooves look worn / shallow, then its time to change.

About selling this heli's design, well... I think there already is a heli of similar looks - the Trex HDE comes close.

. Anyway, I'm here to have fun, not a make a quick buck. But that said, I do have an upgrade out in the market:

http://runryder.com/helicopter/t282420p1/?p=2215105

The aloy block has really changed the way I fly - thats why I'm willing to stake my name on it.

(in reply to borneobear)

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 9/11/2006 3:59:12 AM

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Anyway, on with the mods.
A few pages back, I advocated using servo gromets as head block dampers. Well, about 2 weeks of flying, I checked the condition of the servo gromets, and maan... they looked pretty awful..

I guess they were not meant to take this kind of punishment.

(in reply to borneobear)

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 9/11/2006 4:06:14 AM

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From my recent run-ins with the Trex head block, I learned why the Trex has less problems with the head dampers compared to the shogun / 36:

Its because the head block damper housing is so deep, its designed to take 4 'o' rings!!

I didn't know this!!

(in reply to borneobear)

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 9/11/2006 4:09:13 AM

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Compare to the shallow one 'o' ring depth of the stock shogun CNC head block:

(in reply to borneobear)

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 9/11/2006 4:11:53 AM

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So I whiped out my old-China-made drill, put on the biggest drill bit I had (lucky for me, the diameter was perfect), and just made the damper housing deeper! :

(in reply to borneobear)

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 9/11/2006 4:12:55 AM

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With a depth similar to the Trex head block, I'm now able to fit in the 4 'o' rings:

(in reply to borneobear)

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 9/11/2006 4:28:34 AM

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This is how it looks like after full set up:

I still continue to use the large washers at the point-of-contact with the 'o' rings. I tighten the feathering shaft bolts until there is hardly any movement at the dampers (but not to the point there is no dampening at all). I use lock tight on these bolts to ensure they don't come off mid-flight.
Its been two weeks now and no tightening to the bolts or loosening of the feathering shaft is observed - meaning the 'o' rings are still in good order. Great!!

Anyway, thats it for today. Happy flying and keep safe.

(in reply to borneobear)

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 9/11/2006 4:43:10 AM

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By the way, my post below has been updated. I'm now waiting for Neo + Kevlar belts from Heliworks.com.

quote:

ORIGINAL: borneobear

EDIT: DO NOT BUY THIS BELT: A 6Z16-453012. The NEO + FIBREGLASS BELT CANNOT TAKE THE STRESS OF RUNNING HELI'S TAIL. THESE BELTS BROKE AFTER ONLY ONE WEEK OF FLYING. I AM NOW TRYING OUT NEO + KEVLAR. THANK YOU.

First off was my joined belt. The stock Walkera 36 belts when JOINED did much better than the smooth belt of Align. After 30 flights, the joint still held true. But with time, I got more and more worried it would break. So, off I went and ordered the exact length required from Stock drive products: https://sdp-si.com/eStore/
Part number: A 6Z16-453012 turned out to be like this (round belt):

Made of Neoprene and fibreglass, the belt material is much 'stiffer' than the stock shogun / walkera / Trex belt, so it rigidly kept its shape.

Up close, the grooves were perfect:

(in reply to borneobear)

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 9/15/2006 2:44:19 AM

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Okay, its been a somewhat hectic flying week. The weather is fine and I got these new flybar paddles from Gazaur:

They weigh exactly as Align's 3K paddles which I was using perviously:

(in reply to borneobear)

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 9/15/2006 2:46:39 AM

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They are installed using my existing Align flybar rods and weight:

(in reply to borneobear)

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 9/15/2006 2:54:32 AM

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Though they are exactly the same, these paddles has transformed my flying. Never seen my bird fly so level and stable.
I'm not paddling these paddles, just saying what I observe. I am scratching my head trying to see how or why they are so good, but for the life of me, I cannot explain it.
Maybe somethings should be left a mystery.

This weekend is an exciting weekend of me. Changing to a new drive system for my tail, and using Kevlar belts from Heliworkz.com. And finally a turbo-casing-inspired motor cooling system will be installed.

Stay tuned and good luck!

(in reply to borneobear)

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 9/18/2006 7:14:39 AM

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Success! I've attached the tail drive pully directly on to main drive gear. Therefore the main rotor shaft is now free to spin by itself. Ultimately the aim is to finally autorotate this mini heli without the tail rotor sapping all the rotating inertia!

Here's a video of me testing the main rotor free spinning, powered only my fan blowing upwards:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrJtvnUZ6VQ

And here's my heli's 'maiden' after the tail drive pully mod. It seems to run far quieter, for reasons I don't understand. The camera battery ran out before I could try the autoration, but will post videos of that soon!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8tPIHr59Ks

Built explanation will be tomorrow - too much work to do.

(in reply to borneobear)

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 9/19/2006 3:06:43 AM

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Okays! Job done and I'm free to post.

Here's the biggest part that needs to be mod-ed to make a 'free floating' main shaft:

The one way bearing sleeve has to be machined to remove the insert which was previously used for the tail drive gear. This cannot be done by hand (I tried!

). It has to be precisely ground down so that the one way bearing runs smoothly over it.

Here's why this has to be done:

The one way sleeve can now accomodate two one way bearings!

(in reply to borneobear)

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 9/19/2006 3:13:46 AM

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The other parts required is the tail drive pulley with a large enough hole to enable a one way bearing insert. I got mine from heliworkz.com.

The main gear will have to be JOINED to the tail drive pully, forming one solid unit. I did this by first inserting the one way into the main gear, leaving a small portion un-inserted. This small portion then epoxy glued directly on to the tail drive pully. Immediately after that, I inserted the second one way bearing into the tail drive pully so that the glue will hold on to the second bearing too.

The arrow here shows the two bearings within the main gear and the tail drive pully:

(in reply to borneobear)

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 9/19/2006 3:18:35 AM