RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts)  
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All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.. >> RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts)
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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/8/2006 5:49:21 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Overall view:


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       Post #: 26

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/8/2006 8:16:58 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Okay. Next was the main shaft bearings. I bought a set of Trex bearings from Helidirect.com (great price!) and found that the main rotor shaft Trex bearing was much bigger than the stock bearings. Here's the comparison (stock left, trex right):



That got me thinking - is that why the trex is more stable in flight than the 36?
I had to find out...

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       Post #: 27

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/8/2006 8:21:08 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		I went about looking for the upper and lower bearing case for the T-Rex. Lucky for me, a very good person named Zapper gave me the bearing case set FOC. Wonderful!! Or else I would have had to get a whole Align SET, which would have cost a bomb (!!!)
(plastic set:http://www.helikraft.com/ALIGN+RC/Heli+Upgrade/ALIGN+RC/HS1121/Carbon+Frame+Plastic+Parts+Set+HS1121.html
or metal set: http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=38_39_71&products_id=828).

With my newly acquired bearing case, i went to work...

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       Post #: 28

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/8/2006 8:29:55 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Here's how I fit the Trex upper and lower bearing case:
1) Saw off the stock 36 UPPER bearing case from the frame FIRST.
2) Trial fit the Trex Upper bearing case, using the #36 stock lower bearing case as referrence. If you cut off both top and bottom you will have no referrence to keep the shaft straight up (90 degrees):


3) After ensuring that the main shaft is straight up and the bearings run smooth when you turn the main shaft, you can glue the upper Trex bearing on - other than CA, I use fibre glass and epoxy to hold the bearing case in place:



4) I glue the outside of the bearing case with CA reinforced with nylon tread (from a common nylon string):



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       Post #: 29

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/8/2006 8:36:02 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		5) After the Upper bearing case has set, filed and competed, you can repeat the process for the lower bearing case. Remember to adjust the lower bearing case position so that the main shaft is EXACTLY 90 degrees verticle. Installing the motor to ensure perfect mashing of the motor gear and the main gear will also ensure that the bearing case position is PERFECT.
Lower bearing case glued into position with CA and nylon (note top bearing case finishing):



6) This is the finished product for one side of the frame:



Note: If you install the TREX upper and Lower bearing cases WRONGLY, YOUR MOTOR PINION WILL NOT MASH PERFECTLY WITH THE MAIN GEARING. THIS WILL RESULT IN THE MOTOR PINION GEAR STRIPPING THE PLASTIC MAIN GEAR WITHIN A SECOND OF SPINNING.
SO IF YOU DO THIS MOD - MAKE SURE YOU DO IT CAREFULLY!

Anything that can move up to 3500 kV (YOUR MOTOR) should be taken with great respect!

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       Post #: 30

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/8/2006 8:37:44 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Here's a comparison of the stock (lower frame) and mod-ed larger bearing cased frame (upper):


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       Post #: 31

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/8/2006 8:45:48 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Due to the larger space taken by this new upper bearing case, I noticed that the elevator crank movement became very limited. Therefore I had to grind down (about 2 mm) of the upper bearing case where the elevator crank was hitting. I also filed the elevator crank arms smaller - to get the maximum movement possible:




Not only did this help in the elevator movement, but it also made this unit lighter by nearly half - so I was really happy to remove chunks off it.

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       Post #: 32

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/8/2006 8:53:21 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		At about this moment, I realized that this larger bearings could take a bigger load than the stock bearings. I therefore ordered the part that I've always wanted - since forever!. The wobble-free-micro-heli main gear!



And when it arrived, I was fully satisfied! Larger than stock, and flat as the earth!



Its about the best Trex part produced by Microheli and I intended to fit it into this bird - no matter what.

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       Post #: 33

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/8/2006 8:54:49 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		The above picture, left is the shogun main gear, right is the micro heli Trex main gear.

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       Post #: 34

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/8/2006 8:58:16 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		My only issue with Microheli is the poor quality one way bearing that came with this main gear:

Left is the one way bearing from Microheli (rusting), right is the ABEC-3 standard bearing:

I thought - typical made in china bearing! . For the price i paid, i'd expect more from Microheli.....

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       Post #: 35

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/8/2006 9:03:04 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Well... on with the mod!!

One thing, I of course had to enlarge the frame main gear opening. As I filed away, I knew that the frame support / rigidity would be reduced - so what I did was add about 5 to 6 layers of fibreglass (+epoxy) reinforcement in areas where I had filed away. This is how it looked:


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       Post #: 36

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/8/2006 9:07:30 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		And this is the final product:


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       Post #: 37

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/8/2006 9:09:02 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		After installation, the opening size was exactly 75 mm:


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       Post #: 38

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/8/2006 9:38:31 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Note in the above pic, the motor mounting has been replaced with a metal mount. Here's why:
After the Trex main gear went in, I noted that there was no space for the motor to be mounted. The two servos at the front limited any forward movement of the motor on its mount.
Therefore, i had no choice but to extend the motor mounting area. And the only way I could do that was to cut the frame at the motor mount, and add another frame frontage to it.
Here's a picture of the sacrificial frame where I took the front from. Very sad...
It was a brand new USD 11.40 #36 frame.... oh well....


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       Post #: 39

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/8/2006 9:43:06 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Here's how the frame was re-joined. Originally, I used the stock plastic motor mount. But later I decided adding a metal motor mount would be better - mainly for the strenght, and ease of installing and adjusting the mounted motor:



Note that there is another joint at the base of the frame, but that was a no brainer.

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       Post #: 40

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/8/2006 9:50:21 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		I looked high and low for a good quality motor mount and finally settled for the Helidirect Superframe CNC motor mount (USD 8.00 - best priced!):



It was simple to install, light and most importantly - best priced. (Align motor mount - oddly shaped - difficult to mount, heavy and USD 10.00).

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