RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts)  
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All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.. >> RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts)
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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/12/2006 2:54 AM   
borneobear


 

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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		The method used was the usual epoxy + fiberglass cloth, available in any hobby shop. No CA was used on the canopy. Epoxy was used to smooth out the rough joints. After drying, the excess Epoxy was filed and sanded.

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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/12/2006 2:56 AM   
borneobear


 

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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Here's the final results:

Without top tinted cover:



With canopy cover:





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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/12/2006 3:00 AM   
borneobear


 

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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		How it fitted into the bird:



The motifs on the side of the canopy is coppied from the Microheli main gear. I liked it.

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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/12/2006 3:03 AM   
borneobear


 

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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		I used Tamiya for Plastic spray paint - "Italian Red". This colour made the heli stand out while flying, making it easier for orientation. Unlike the white colour I started with, the heli dissapeared into the sky on bright cloudy days!








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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/12/2006 3:05 AM   
borneobear


 

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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		It stood out well from the greenery too!



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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/12/2006 8:03 AM   
borneobear


 

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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		If you look at my earlier canopy pics, you will notice there is evidence of it being broken at the top. I actually pieced it back together like a jig saw puzzle after a blade strike. The reason was - a not so perfect landing, hit the nose first, sent it up by about 1 inch, just enough for the rotors to catch it and send it flying 20 feet across my floor.

Well.. I thought.. no more!

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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/12/2006 8:12 AM   
borneobear


 

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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		For this canopy, I decided to fix it to the body semi-permanently.
Got the Idea from my now RIP first plank.
Here's the mod:
1. I extended the eileron lever mounting using the Hirobo link rods to mount my canopy.


This enabled me to attache the canopy as far back as possible - where weight would act on the most:

2. On the other side, I extended the same rod from the frame screw attachement:


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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/12/2006 8:13 AM   
borneobear


 

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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		3. By having threaded rods, I could bolt the canopy directly onto the frame, with no fear of it coming off:



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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/12/2006 8:14 AM   
borneobear


 

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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		4. To support the canopy base, I added two bolt and nuts:



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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/12/2006 8:16 AM   
borneobear


 

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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		The top canopy opening gives me ample space to deposit my battery inside and take it out the same way later. This is how I push it in:





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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/12/2006 8:18 AM   
borneobear


 

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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		The view inside, when the battery is fully inserted:



My battery 'holder' is made from the Align blade holder material:



The plastic retainer is added to keep the battery away from the rotating motor.

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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/12/2006 8:19 AM   
borneobear


 

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Status: offline 		Another view, with motor location seen:



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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/12/2006 8:20 AM   
borneobear


 

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Status: offline 		I don't worry about the canopy coming off anymore.

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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/13/2006 3:06 AM   
borneobear


 

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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Todays' mod is the Pitch Slider.
I got my inspiration from Hubdave's mod of the Shogun pitch slider. But I thought the bearings he put on were a little too big.
I decided to install the bearings on the frame itself, therefore modifying the pitch slider structure was not required. This is an easy mod:

1) Using an old servo horn, I drilled the servo socket larger so that a small bearing can fit in. This servo horn was then glued (CA + NYLON) on to the frame, like this:



Close up:



This eliminates the 'play' when using the stock screw & hole method.

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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/13/2006 3:11 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 481
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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		The pitch slider itself has one bearing held between a U structure (actually its an 'O') by two tiny screws. I didn't like the tiny screws. So I repeated the procedure as with the frame mounted bearings:

CA + Nylon gluing of the plastic mounted bearings:



After fine filing, this is the end product; a bearing loaded pitch slider:





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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/13/2006 3:12 AM   
borneobear


 

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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Raven had requested for the pitch slider measurements, so here it is:



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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/13/2006 5:33 AM   
az-pc


 

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Status: offline 		Great job and explainations. Ive just got to ask? With all the mods and expense, why not just go with a Trex?


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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/13/2006 6:59 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 481
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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		I see Trexs everywhere. Blinged up like English silver. But would you take a second look at a Trex?
Anyway, by mod-ding my bird, I learned a bunch of things, which I would not have if I just bought a Trex SE and bolted it together.

Its a COMPLETE BLAST to give birth to an idea, form it, and see it flying up in the air. The feeling is amazing!

Here - i'm just sharing what I've learned and hopefully pass on this adventure to someone else...



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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/13/2006 7:56 AM   
borneobear


 

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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Okay.. not to sound mushy. On with the mod.
Next up was my rotor head. The stock head set up is all plastic. And when it started breaking, it broke royally. So i finally bought (who hasn't?) the MADE IN CHINA / HONG KONG upgrade head. Purple coloured (USD 45). Well... that didn't work out at all. The parts were HEAVY (!!) and the heli never felt quite 'right'.

I changed it part by part (an expensive method), with the shogun CNC metal head. Here's a pic of my head mid-evolving into a shogun set up:



< Message edited by borneobear -- 6/13/2006 9:24 AM >

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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/13/2006 7:58 AM   
borneobear


 

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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		I feel the best upgrade on the shogun head is the wrap-around flybar control. Helped in adjusting the flybar ballancing position perfectly.

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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/13/2006 9:05 AM   
borneobear


 

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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		In the end i upgraded to the full Shogun head, including the Shogun CNC Swash Plate. I'd like to point out that the shogun swash plate is about 20 % lighter than the Trex swash plate.

My last mod on the shogun cnc head is the Trex flybar and flybar weight.
The Trex flybar weight is fully adjustable, compared to the fixed flybar weight of the Shogun / Walkera. By being able to adjust the flybar weight - I'm able to ballance the flybar accurately.




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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/13/2006 9:08 AM   
borneobear


 

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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Here's how easy it is to ballance (note all ball links are off):






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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/13/2006 9:19 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 481
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Joined: 6/8/2006
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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		The wrap-around flybar has some 'play' - which makes balancing impossible. Adding a washer will get rid of this - BUT don't squize the middle section to the point of binding the flybar movement.



Additionally to get the flybar (or anything moving for that matter) ballanced, the bearings MUST move without any kind of binding. I found that nearly all of the installed bearings had bindings on them (did not move smoothly), due to the bearing housing being too tight - it pinches the bearing onto its inner and outer wall.
The solution is to file the housing just big enough to get rid of any kind of binding:



A smoothly set up fly bar will return into a balanced position when one side is pushed down.

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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/14/2006 2:14 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 481
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Joined: 6/8/2006
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From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Today's mod is simple. Changing the 'Z' band on the two front servos to aircraft horn connectors. This is how it looked a few months ago, before I did the microheli main gear mod:




I've had to put the servo horns away from the gear, as their wires would touch the (hot) motor if I put it the other way around.
I wanted to put it the other way because that would give me a shorter link rod (less bending, less weight, faster response ?).

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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/14/2006 2:16 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 481
Score: 100
Joined: 6/8/2006
Last Login: 11/4/2009
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		The two rods connecting rods on both sides of my frame were my old canopy mounts. Thats gone now (an added unneccessary weight).

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Page:   <<   < prev  1 2 [3] 4 5 6 7 8 9 10   next >   >>  
All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.. >> RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts)
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