RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts)  
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All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.. >> RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts)
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RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/20/2006 6:31:25 PM   
tripp3d


 

Posts: 253
Joined: 12/3/2004
From: Memphis, TN, USA
Status: offline 		Thats insane man , how did you drill the canopy so evenly?!!! Another question Bear... I am having the same heat related issue with my ESC (Align). How did you make your heat sinks for your ESC?

(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 126

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/21/2006 1:16:18 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		Hey tripp3d,

To drill evenly, I had to find a 'template'. Went to the electrical hardware store, found those 3 inch by 5 inch DIY electronic mother boards. It has these evenly spaced out holes for you to solder things on. I stick that board onto the canopy with double sided tape and drilled following the 0.5 mm holes across the board. After making like 150 of this small holes, I enlarged it by using a 2mm bit - which is the final product that you see here.

Pics of the electronic board I used as drilling template guide:





< Message edited by borneobear -- 6/22/2006 2:12:17 AM >

(in reply to tripp3d)
       Post #: 127

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/21/2006 1:35:03 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		I posted pics and explanation of my Align ESC heat sink mod on Runryder, but all of it got deleted when Bob Finless got booted out...
So can't give you that link.
Again, go to the electronic / computer shop. Ask for computer alluminum Mosfet heat sinks (is a common thing, retails at $5 here). It comes ready with thin heat transferring double sided tape.
Take off the stock align heat sink - if yours haven't fallen off yet.
Clean out the useless white gunk they stick onto the ESC mosfet and just paste the computer heat sink on. To make sure the heat sink does not short circuit the ESC board, I cement it in place with epoxy. Don't use CA. CA is known to destroy ESC boards.

Here's the end product:







< Message edited by borneobear -- 6/21/2006 4:26:41 PM >

(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 128

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/21/2006 1:38:01 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		My Align ESC never ever ever got hot anymore. But people say this mod is an overkill. And I agree. If i were to do it over, I'd cut the height of the computer heat sink by half before pasting it on. Can't do that now without destroying the ESC mosfets underneath.
Oh well...

(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 129

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/21/2006 2:38:47 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		I have only one simple mod today.
When flying, I notice my heli would sometimes go into this yo yo like flight - i.e. maintaining hover altitude was a problem.
Apart from the glitching (now gone), I found a lot of 'play' in the pitch control system for this heli. The source of this tardiness is the multiple ball links, sliders and sleave. I got rid of most of the ball link play by changing to the larger sized ball and links from Align (the metal balls are best). But I also found a lot of play at the washout base:



This was because the plastic piece that sits inside the washout base will ware-out with use - doesn't fit snugly in its housing anymore.

(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 130

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/21/2006 2:41:12 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		The solution was simple enough. I took an appropriately small sized self tapping screw, and just wedge it in.
The play dissapears. Altitude control is so much easier now .


(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 131

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/22/2006 2:16:33 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		No further Mods until I can figure out how to bring down the weight from 710 grams to 680 grams.

Any help would be most appreciated.

(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 132

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/22/2006 5:51:58 AM   
tripp3d


 

Posts: 253
Joined: 12/3/2004
From: Memphis, TN, USA
Status: offline 		Hey Bear,

What kind of blades are you running? I've seen some with big slots cut out (to lighten) with just tape over them...

(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 133

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/22/2006 6:54:56 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		tripp3d,
I have a few:



The latest I tried were the Hyperion blades:



Don't believe it when they say it's ballanced spot on, cuz I still had to add some tape to ballance them:



Climbout from the Hyperion is insane. Stability is great. But I'm more relaxed running the 285 mm woods. High head speed, great stability, same weight as the Hyperion.
The lightest blade is the 244mm flat bottom Century Heli blades. But the head speed is too high. I'll stick with the 285 mm for now.

(in reply to tripp3d)
       Post #: 134

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/22/2006 7:03:25 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		I'm still looking for light blades though. Any suggestions? A longer flat bottom blade perhaps?

(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 135

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/22/2006 7:09:40 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		I was looking at the T Rex weight survey... mostly around 680 grams. A few with 650 grams. One or two had 600 grams. One guy was 500 grams! Makes me sick...

(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 136

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/22/2006 6:00:04 PM   
tripp3d


 

Posts: 253
Joined: 12/3/2004
From: Memphis, TN, USA
Status: offline 		bear, looks like you cut the tips off of that smallest set of blades. i did the same thing last night. it was about to get dark and my belt was slipping bad causing the heli to spin left even after adjusting pit. sooooo, knowing I didnt have time to replace or tighten the belt before it got dark, I just snipped the tips of the blades and it worked perfect for some last minute flying

the trex blades i have seem way too long and the tail never has been able to keep up, even when the heli was new

(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 137

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/23/2006 12:50:10 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		tripp3d,
Dude, I didn't cut the blade. The 244mm came pre cut from Century Heli (though I wished they hadn't!! ). They are suppose to be training blades - good duration because they are flat bottomed and due to the shortness, very low possibility of tail boom strike.
But they are only good for hover training.

If you are flying the 36, check that tail drive pully. The soft pully is always eaten away by the shaft pin, resulting in slipping and tail spin.

(in reply to tripp3d)
       Post #: 138

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/23/2006 1:59:39 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		While I'm still mulling over the weight issue, I realized last night that there is a lot of 'deflection' on my head set up, exactly as reported by this guy:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=533432

Because of this huge 'deflection', I always find my 'O' rings get eaten away after just 20 flights:




(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 139

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/23/2006 2:06:41 AM   
borneobear


 

Posts: 480
Joined: 6/8/2006
From: Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		I dismantled the grips last night and added washers on both sides. The washers are larger than the spacers that came with the CNC head set up:




(in reply to borneobear)
       Post #: 140

RE: Ultimate #36 Mod Thread (& Shogun Parts) - 6/23/2006 2:21:31 AM