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Don McCullough -> RE: Brio 10 outrunner (10/14/2006 3:02:08 AM)
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I am probably one of the few to use both the lightweight (E-Flight 480 w/ TP 1320s) and E-Fight 10 w/ TP 2100s. With the lightweight power it flew OK but could not handle wind. Plus, even with power management the batteries got hot. Adding the 2100s reduced performance. I mainly practice the Master's pattern and it lacked power. Plus, flying with less power did seem to make the "snap demons" come out. Yes, this plane tends to snap. I am convinced it is the fact they have a single thin spar top and bottom that makes most of the airfoil have a diamond shape. I purchased another Brio 10 and will probably add two more spars and recover the wing.
With the E-Flight 10, this plane is a true performer. It can fly in almost any wind and I hardly use full power, even on the "power-hungy" maneuvers. BTW, it was easy to convert. I popped out the blind nuts on the 480 firewall, cut away what was needed with the Dremel, and glued the 10 plywood over the old. A 20 min job.
One thing to watch out for is warps. The only things not warped were the fuse, stab, and the fin. Luckily all were easy to unwarp with a heat gun (careful near the tips of the wing where the UltraCoat hits the plastic tips. Backyard flyer last month has a Brio 10 in a "staged" shot. Interestingly you can see the warped ailerons and elevator in that shot.
I also found the area between the elevators weak. A few pokes with a pin and some thin CA re-bonded the balsa and made the two halves solid. Hearing about canapy separations, I use a small #2 wood screw from below (accessed through the cooling air exit) to secure the hatch. A glob of epoxy on the inside of the canopy gave the screw something to grab.
All-in-all a great flying plane. It can do anthing a 2-meter pattern plan can (only closer and can fly in my side yard).
Don
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